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THE CITY OF
EDINBURGH
[photograph inserted]
ROYAL COMMISSION
ON ANCIENT MONUMENTS
SCOTLAND |
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NATIONAL MONUMENTS
RECORD OF SCOTLAND
RCAHMS
Archive copy
PRINT ROOM
Price £2 5s. 0d. |
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£95
2315 2
A1.1
INV
(Print Room) |
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The City of Edinburgh |
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Frontispiece.
[photograph inserted]
Fig. 1 - Edinburgh Castle (No. 1) ; St. Margaret's Chapel from S.S.W. |
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3595
THE ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE
ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND
AN INVENTORY OF THE ANCIENT
AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF
THE CITY OF EDINBURGH
WITH THE THIRTEENTH REPORT OF
THE COMMISSION
EDINBURGH
HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE
1951 |
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Crown Copyright Reserved
PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJEST'YS STATIONERY OFFICE
To be purchased from
13a Castle Street, EDINBURGH, 2 York House, Kingsway, W.C.2
429 Oxford Street. LONDON, W.1 1 St. Andrew's Crescent, CARDIFF
39 King Street, MANCHESTER, 2 Tower Lan, BRISTOL, 1
2 Edmund Street, BIRMINGHAM, 3 80 Chichester Street, BELFAST
or from any Bookseller
1951
Price £2 5s. 0d.
S.O. CODE NO. 49-335
LLYF[Unreadable]LLOEDD Y F LINT
FLINT PUBLIC LIBARY
FHIF / NUMBER DOSBARTH CLASS
82064 R 936.146
HMSO 45 GRE
rinted in Great Britain under the authority of His Majesty's Stationery Office
Text by Andrew Holmes & Co., Ltd., Glasgow
Plates by Scottish Co-operative Wholesale Society Ltd., Glasgow |
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CONTENTS
PAGE
LIST OF PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS ..... vii
ROYAL WARRANTS ..........xv
THIRTEENTH REPORT OF THE ROYAL COMMISSIONS .. xxvii
LIST OF MONUMENTS WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM
MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION ..... xxxi
ABBREVIATED TITLES OF REFERENCES ..... xxxiii
INTRODUCTION TO THE INVENTORY OF THE ANCIENT AND
HISTORRICAL MONUMENTS OF THE CITY OF EDINBURGH xxxv
INVENTORY OF THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
OF THE CITY OF EDINBURGH
BURGH OF EDINBURGH....... 1
BURGH OF CANONGATE....... 129
NEW TOWN AND INNER SUBURBS..... 184
OUTLYING DISTRICTS.......217
LEITH, NEWHAVEN AND RESTALRIG.... 250
APPENDICES...........267
ARMORIAL........... 277
GLOSSARY............277
INDEX.............285
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LIST OF PLANS AND ILLUSTRATION
FIGURE TITLE PLATES OR (p) PAGE
1 Edinburgh Castle (No 1; St. Margaret's Chapel from S.S.W. - Frontispiece
2 Edinburgh and its environs in the 11th century - p. xxxvi
3 Edinburgh and its environs in the 12th century - p. xxxvi
4 Mediaeval Edinburgh, Canongate and Leith - p.xxxvii
5 Edinburgh and Leith in the later 18th century - p.xxxvii
6 Boundaries of the City of Edinburgh as established in 1933 - p. xxxviii
7 Greyfriars Church (No 7) from S.E. - 1
8 Magdalen Chapel (No 6); tower from S.E. 2
9 Edinburgh Castle (No 1) from Tower of St. Giles' Church(No 2) - 2
10 Canongate Tolbooth (No. 105 from Huntly House (No. 104 - 3
11 St. Patrick's Church (No. 5); steeple - 3
12 St. Andrew's Church (No. 123) from S.W. - 3
13 St. Cuthbert's Church (No. 125); tower from S.W. - 3
14 George Heriot's Hospital (N0. 56) ; superstructure in N.E. corner of courtyard - 4
15 Parliament House (No. 29); roof of Parliament Hall from S. - 5
16 Trinity College Church (No. 4); doorway - 6
17 Canongate Tolbooth (No. 105); entrance - 6
18 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); entrance - 6
19 The Palace of Holyrioodhouse (No. 87); seventeenth-century doorway in court-house - 6
20 Roseburn House (No.182); inscribed lintel - 7
21 Inscribed lintel (No 70) in Edinburgh Public Library - 7
22 Sempill's Close (No. 10); inscribed lintel - 7
23 Huntly House (No. 104); inscribed lintel - 7
24 Sempill's Close (No. 10); inscribed lintel - 7
25 Huntly House (No. 104); inscribed lintel - 7
26 Advocate's Close (No. 21); inscribed door-lintel - 7
27 Huntly House (No. 10); inscribed panel - 7
28 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); sundial on window-sill of tower - 7
29 Carved panel (No. 241) in Tollbooth Wynd, Leith - 8
30 Carved panel at 69 West Port (No. 153) - 8
31 Carved panel at 70 West Port (No. 154) - 8
32 "The Old Tolboth," Dean (No. 176); lintel and pediment - 8
33 Bible Land (No. 108); carved panel - 8
34 Inscribed panel (No. 150) at the Royal High School - 8
35 Town Walls p. lxiii
36 The Flooded Wall (No.59); the tower from N.W. - 9
37 The Telfer Walls (No. 60) in the Vennel - 9
38 The Flooden Wall (No. 59); site of bastion at junction of Drummond Street and the Pleasance - 9
39 Charlotte Square (No. 140; fireplace in Number 6 - 10
40 Ditto fireplace in Number 41 - 10
41 Ditto fireplace in Number 5 - 10
42 Ditto fireplace in Number 11 - 10
43 Queen Street (No. 132); fireplace in entrance-hall of Number 8 - 10
44 Dreghorn Castle (No. 189); fireplace - 10
45 Charlotte Square (No. 140; fireplace in Number 23 - 11
46 Ditto fireplace in Number 8 - 11
47 Ditto fireplace in Number 13-14 - 11
48 Ditto fireplace in Number 8 - 11
49 George Street (No130); fireplace in Number 84 - 11
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
PLATE OR
FIGURE TITLE (p) PAGE
50 Queen Street (No. 132); fireplace in Number 66 - 11
51 Charlotte Square (No. 140); back drawing-room of Number 34 - 12
52 Charlotte Square (No. 140); drawing-room of Number 6 - 12
53 Charlotte Square (No. 140); drawing-room of Number 5 - 12
54 Charlotte Square (No. 140); drawing-room of Number 8 - 12
55 The Burgh of Edinburgh, western portion; plan showing positions of the principal
monuments, with their reference-numbers - p.lxxvi
56 The Burgh of Edinburgh, eastern portion, and the Burgh of Canongate; plan showing
the positions of the principal monuments, with their reference-numbers - p.lxxvii
57 Edinburgh Castle; general view, after Paul Sandby (1750) - 13
58 Edinburgh Castle; general view from the Esplanade - 13
59 Contemporary view of Edinburgh showing damage done by the Earl of Hertford's army
in 1544; inset, the Castle (enlarged) - 14
60 Contemporary view of Edinburgh, with Leith in the foreground, showing English forces
in action (1547) - 15
61 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); siege of 1573 after Holinshed - 16
62 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); plan after Slezer (1675) - 17
63 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); bird's-eye view from S. (period 1689-1707) - 18
64 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); plan dated 1725, showing postern gate marked by a white cross - 19
65 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Morton's Gateway from E. - 20
66 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Morton's Gateway from W. - 20
67 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); in 1647, after Gordon of Rothiemay - p.9
68 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); site plan, from plans supplied by the Ministry of Works - p.14
69 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); David's Tower and the Palace. From drawings supplied by
the Ministry of Works - p.16
70 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); general view from S.E., after Elphinstone (c. 1746) - 21
71 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); general view from E., after Elphinstone (c. 1746) - 21
72 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); S.E. corner and Half-moon Battery (from S.E.) - 22
73 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Foog's Gate, on the site of St. Margaret's postern - 23
74 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); St. Margaret's Chapel from N.W. - 23
75 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); chancel arch of st. Margaret's Chapel - 24
76 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); S. buildings from S. - 25
77 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Palace block from W. - 26
78 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Palace block from N.E. - 26
79 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); ceiling in Queen Mary's room - 27
80 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); prisoners' names carved in the vaults under the Great hall - 27
81 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Royal Arms in Queen Mary's room - 27
82 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Mons Meg - 28
83 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Governor's House - 28
84 The Parliament House (No. 29) after Gordon of Rothiemay - 29
85 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Half-moon Battery and Palace Block from Johnston Terrace - 29
86 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the "Honours of Scotland" and Crown jewels - 30
87 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Crown, with and without the bonnet - 31
88 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the head of the Lord High Treasurer's Mace with the St.
Andrew of the Order of the Thistle and the George of the
Order of the Garter - 32
89 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); two faces of the head of the Sceptre, showing St. Andrew and
the Virgin and Child - 33
90 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Sceptre, with the scabbard and baldric of the Sword of
State - 34
91 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); detail of the baldric and scabbard of the Sword of State, with
the head of the Sceptre showing St. James - 35
92 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the hilt of the Sword of State - 36
93 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Palace Block in 1754. From Tarrant's plan, supplied by
the Ministry of Works - p.19
94 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Crown Square. From plans supplied by the Ministry of
Works - p.20
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
PLATE OR
FIGURE TITLE (p) PAGE
95 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the sub-vaults. From plans supplied by the Ministry of Works - p.21
96 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Governor's House in 1742. From a plan supplied by the
Ministry of Works - p.23
97 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); plan - p.28
98 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); section - p.29
99 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); plan prepared by Archibald Elliot (1818) showing sub-division - p.30
100 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); general view from N.W. - 37
101 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); Preston Aisle from W. - 38
102 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); tower from S.E. - 39
103 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); window in E. wall of transept - 40
104 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); superstructure of tower - 40
105 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); Romanesque doorway, now demolished - 40
106 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); E. door, formerly entrance to five S. chapels of nave - 40
107 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); interior from W. - 41
108 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); interior from E. - 41
109 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); nave arcades from S. aisle - 42
110 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); Albany Aisle - 42
111 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); S. shield on central pillar of Albany Aisle - 43
112 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); N. shield on central pillar of Albany Aisle - 43
113 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital in Preston Aisle - 43
114 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital in arcade of five s. chapels - 43
115 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); S. aisle of nave from W. - 44
116 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); vault of S. nave aisle from E. - 45
117 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); vault of N. choir aisle from W. - 45
118 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); vault of Preston Aisle - 45
119 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); choir vault from E. - 45
120-121 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); carved corbels in S. transept - 46
122 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); detail of vault in Preston Aisle - 46
123 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); boss on vault in S. nave aisle - 46
124 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); base in choir arcade - 47
125 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital in arcade of five S. chapels - 47
126 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); base in Preston Aisle - 47
127 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital of S. respond of choir - 47
128 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); base in N. transept - 47
129 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital of N. respond of choir - 47
130 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); vault of Chepman Aisle - 48
131 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); detail of choir arcade, showing alteration in vaulting - 48
132 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); vault of S. transept, showing window above - 48
133 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); S.W. crossing-pier, showing alteration in nave arcade - 48
134-137 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital of N. pier of choir arcade - 49
138-141 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); capital of S. pier of choir arcade - 50
142 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); the Moray brass - 51
143 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); the Moray brass (back) - 51
144 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); pediment of the Moray monument - 51
145 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); tomb recess in S. transept - 51
146 The Tron Church (No. 3); general view from N.W. - 52
147 The Tron Church (No. 3); the roof - 52
148 The Tron Church (No. 3); interior - 52
149 Trinity College Church (No. 4); from plan preserved in the Library of the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland - p.36
150 Trinity College Church (No. 4); the Nether Bow Port (No. 64) and adjoining buildings,
in 1647, after Gordon of Rothiemay - p.37
151 Trinity College Church (No. 4); detail of pier arcade - 53
152 Trinity College Church (No. 4); wall-shaft, capital and tas-de-charge of vault - 53
153 Trinity College Church (No. 4); pier arcade - 53
154 Trinity College Church (No. 4); vault - 53
155 Trinity College Church (No. 4); carved capital with shield - 54
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
PLATE OR
FIGURE TITLE (p) PAGE
156 Trinity College Church (No. 4); fireplace - 54
157 Trinity College Church (No. 4); piscina - 54
158-161 Trinity College Church (No. 4); detail of fireplace - 55
162 Trinity College Church (No. 4); altar-piece panel depicting the Holy Trinity - 56
163 Trinity College Church (No. 4); altar-piece panel depicting Sir Edward Boncle with two
angels and a pipe-organ - 56
164 Trinity College Church (No. 4); altar-piece panel depicting James III with a young
prince and St. Andrew - 57
165 Trinity College Church (No. 4); altar-piece panel depicting Queen Margaret with a Patron
Saint - 57
166 Statue of Chales II (No. 62) - 58
167 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6), Greyfriars Church (No. 7) and George Heriot's Hospital
(No. 56), with the town walls and the West Port, in 1647, after Gordon of Rothiemay - p.45
168 Greyfriars Church (No.7); plans showing the development of the church from 1620 to 1937 - p.46
169 Numbers 300-310 Lawnmarket (No. 19) - 59
170 James' Court (No. 13); N. side from the Mound - 59
171 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No. 18) - 59
172 Numbers 300-310 Lawnmarket (No. 19); Brodie's Close from S. - 60
173 Numbers 300-310 Lawnmarket (No. 19); Brodie's Close from N. - 60
174 Blackie House (No. 17) from S. - 60
175 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No. 18); Fisher's Close - 60
176 The Earl of Morton's House (No. 42); fireplace, niche and lintel - 61
177 Restalrig Church (No. 220); vault of St. Triduana's Well - 61
178 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); interior from S.W. - 61
179 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); Council Room - 61
180 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); panelling at E. end - 62
181 Murrayfield House (No. 178); dining-room fireplace - 62
182 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); ironwork - 62
183 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); Romanesque capital rebuilt into St. Eloi's Chapel - 63
184 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); insignia of the Saddlers - 63
185 Mary King's Close (No. 22); altar retable - 63
186 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); City Arms in Preston Aisle - 63
187 St. Giles' Church (No. 2); the Vesper Bell - 64
188 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); bell - 64
189 Lady Stair's House (No. 15); grave-slab probably from the churchyard of Holyrood
Abbey (No. 86) - 64
190 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); Hammermen's chair - 64
191 The Magdalen Chapel (No. 6); cover-slab of the tomb of the Foundress - 64
192 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Harlay Monument (1) - 65
193 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Dennistoun Monument (3) - 65
194 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Little Monument (40) - 65
195 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Mackenzie Monument (37) - 65
196 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Jackson Monument (27) - 66
197 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Foulis Monument (22) - 66
198 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Naismith Monument (5) - 66
199 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); The Martyrs' Monument (15) - 66
200 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Bannatyne Monument (21) - 67
201 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); carved panel in pediment of Bannatyne Monument (21) - 67
202 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Laing Monument (7) - 67
203 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Monument of George Heriot, senior (11) - 67
204 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); mortsafe in churchyard - 68
205 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Borthwick Monument (43) - 68
206 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Mylne Monument (42) - 68
207 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); part of E. wall of churchyard - 68
208 Greyfriars Churchyard (No. 7); Paton Monument (32) - 68
209 Gladstone's Land (No. 14) - 69
210 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); the Well-House Tower - 69
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
PLATE OR
FIGURE TITLE (p) PAGE
211 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); interior of room on first floor - 70
212 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); door to stair - 71
213 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); decorated frieze - 71
214 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); painted ceiling - 72
215 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); boarding of painted ceiling - 72
216 Dalry House (No. 183) from S.W. - 73
217 Lady Stair's House (No. 15) from E. - 73
218 Cannonball House (No. 8); W. side from S.W. - 74
219 Cannonball House (No. 8); general view from N.W. - 74
220 Milne's Court (No. 12); superstructure of N. front - 75
221 Milne's Court (No. 12); N. and E. sides of courtyard - 75
222 Milne's Court (No. 12); S. side of courtyard - 76
223 Milne's Court (No. 12); N. front - 76
224 Milne's Court (No. 12); plans and elevation - p.73
225 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); plans - p.74
226 Gladstone's Land (No. 14); 16th-century arrangement - p.75
227 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No.18); Riddle's Court with entry to Riddle's Close - 77
228 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No.18); Riddle's Close from E. - 78
229 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No.18); Riddle's Close from N. - 78
230 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No.18); ceiling in Riddle's Court - 79
231 Merchiston Castle (No. 185); ceiling - 79
232 Numbers 312-328 Lawnmarket (No.18); first-floor room in Riddle's Close - 79
233-234 Numbers 300-310 Lawnmarket (No. 19); plaster ceiling in Brodie's Close - 80
235 Numbers 82 and 82A Canongate (No. 96); back wall formerly carrying timber extensions - 81
236 Number 142 Canongate (No. 102); E. gable - 81
237 Moubray House (No. 38); Trunk;s close from N. - 81
238 Byer's Close (No. 20); from N.N.E. - 81
239 Byer's Close (No 20); detail - 82
240 Edinburgh Castle (No. 1); Wallace's Cradle - 82
241 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); James IV's tower from N.E, - 82
242 Craigentinny House (No. 231) from S.W. - 82
243 Numbers 300-328 Lawnmarket (Nos. 19 and 18); plans - p.82
244 Advocate's Close (No. 21) from N. - 83
245 The Exchange Buildings, Leith (No. 228) - 84
246 The Royal Exchange (No. 23) from S. - 84
247 The City Chambers (No. 23); fireplace - 85
248 The City Chambers (No. 23); fireplace in Old Council Chamber - 85
249 The City Chambers (No. 23); Old Council chamber from W. - 85
250 "John Knox's House" (No. 39); detail of front - 86
251 "John Knox's House" (No. 39); painted panel on second floor - 86
252 "John Knox's House" (No. 39); interior of second floor - 86
253 St. Giles' Church (No. 2), the Parliament House (No. 29), the Mercat Cross (No. 61), the
Tolbooth (No. 80) and adjoining buildings, in 1647, after Gordon of Rothiemay - p.91
254 The Parliament House (No. 29); original arrangement - p.92
255 The Parliament House (No. 29); detail of roof - p.92
256 Numbers 80-86 High Street (No. 34); from plans prepared by Stewart Kaye, A.R.I.B.A. - p.93
257 Moubray House (No. 38) and "John Knox's House" (No. 39); plans - p.95
258 Moubray House (No. 38) and "John Knox's House" (No. 39); - 87
259 The West Bow from the Grassmarket (No. 52) - 88
260 Morocco Land (No. 117) - 88
261 George Street (No. 130); Number 115 - 89
262 Numbers 3 and 4 Hunter Square (No. 46) - 89
263 The Assembly Rooms (No. 131) - 89
264 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); lintel of entrance - 90
265 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); panel over entrance-pend - 90
266 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); entrance to adjoining tenement, now demolished - 90
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
PLATE OR
FIGURE TITLE (p) PAGE
267 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); superstructure of adjoining tenement, now demolished- 90
268 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); pediment over entrance - 90
269 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); site plan - P.106
270 The Tailors' Hall (No. 54); plans and sections - P.107
271 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); from plans dated 1866, supplied by the Trustees - p.112
272 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); general view from S.W. - 91
273 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); general view from N.W. - 91
274 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); exterior of entrance - 92
275 George Heriot's Hospital (No. 56); interior of entrance - 92
276 The University (No. 57); original plan, after Bolton - p.115
277 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); W. front - 93
278 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); nave from N.W. - 94
279 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); interior of W. gable - 95
280 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); tribune of W. gable - 96
281 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); vault of S. aisle - 96
282 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); bay of N. aisle of nave - 97
283 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); lowermost tier of arcading on W. gable - 98
284 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); wall-arcade of S. aisle - 98
285 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); N. door of nave, built by Abbot Crawford - 99
286 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); E. processional door - 99
287 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); gatehouse from N. - 100
288 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); N.E. corner of nave - 100
289 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); the Abbey Church, from a plan prepared by the Ministry of
Works - p.129
290 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); plan showing the relation between the earlier and later
churches - p.130
291 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); detail of upper part of S. nave arcade - p.135
292 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); from W. - 101
293 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); general view from N.W. - 102
294 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); quadrangle from W. - 102
295 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); James IV's tower from S.W. - 103
296 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); the State staircase - 104
297 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); stair with wrought-iron balustrade - 105
298 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); Queen Mary's bedroom - 105
299 Abbey Strand (No. 90); ceiling - 106
300 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); the Picture Gallery - 106
301 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); sundial - 107
302 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); "Queen Mary's Bath" - 107
303 Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); doorway of S.W. tower - 107
304 Croft an Righ (No. 88) from S.E. - 108
305 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); tower of gatehouse from E. - 108
306 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); ground-floor plan - p.147
307 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); first-floor plan - p.148
308 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); second-floor plan - p.150
309 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); "Queen Mary's Bath", plans - p.152
310 The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87); "Queen Mary's Bath", elevations - p.152
311 Reid's Court (No. 99) - 109
312 Abbey Strand (No. 90) from S.E. - 109
313 White Horse Close (No. 93) - 110
314 Canongate Church (No. 89); from S., with Canongate Burgh Cross (No. 119) - 111
315 Canongate Church (No. 89); interior from S. - 112
316 Canongate Church (No. 89); arcade from S.W. - 112
317 Canongate Church (No. 89); arcade from N.W. - 112
318 Abbey Strand (No. 90), from plans prepared by the Ministry of Works - p.156
319 White Horse Close (No. 93), from plans prepared by Sir F.C. Mears, P.R.S.A., F.R.I.B.A. - p.159
320 Queensberry House (No. 94), from plans lent by the Governors - p.160
321 Numbers 82 and 82A Canongate (No. 96) - p.162
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Figure Title Plate or (p) Page
322 Number 142 Canongate (No. 102), Acheson House (No. 103) and Huntly Houe (No. 104), from plans prepared
by Sir F. C. Mears, P.R.S.A., F. R. I. B. A. ...................................................................................................p.165
323 Bakehouse Close and adjoining building (Nos. 102, 103, 104): site plan .........................................................p.166
324 Acheson House (No. 103), from drawings supplied by messrs. Neil & Hurd........................................................p.166
325 Huntly House (No. 104) from Bakehouse Close.............................................................................................. 113
326 Acheson House (No. 103); view from N. ..................................................................................................... 114
327 Ditto view from S.E. ................................................................................................... 114
328 Huntly House (No. 104) from Tolbooth Wynd ................................................................................................ 115
329 The Earl of Morton's House (No. 42) ........................................................................................................... 115
330 Bible Land (No. 108) ................................................................................................................................ 115
331 Numbers 21-203 Canongate (No. 111) with Bible Land (No. 108) beyond ......................................................... 115
332 Canongate Tolbooth (No. 105) and Numbers 167-169 Canongate (No. 106) ....................................................... 116
333 Number 142 Canongate (no. 102), and Huntly House (No.104); from plans prepared by
Sir F.C. Mears, P.R.S.A., F.R.I.B.A. ...........................................................................................................p.169
334 Numbers 167-169 Canongate (No. 106)........................................................................................................p.174
335 Moray House (No. 107); from plans prepared by Messers. Frank Wood, F.R.I.A.S., and
C.B. Boog-Watson ....................................................................................................................................p.175
336 Ditto W. block and eighteenth-century addition from S.W. ......................................................... 117
337 Ditto W. block and entrance from Canongate.............................................................................. 117
338-9 Ditto ceiling of balcony room on first floor.................................................................................. 118
340-1 Ditto ceiling of balcony room on first floor.................................................................................. 119
342 Ditto ceiling of balcony room on first floor.................................................................................. 120
343 Ditto ceiling of S. room on first floor.......................................................................................... 120
344 Numbers 194-198 Canongate (No.110); Old Playhouse Close from S. ............................................................. 121
345 Numbers 240 Canongate (No. 114); view from S. ....................................................................................... 122
346 Ditto view from N.W. ................................................................................... 122
347 Ditto Chessel's Court ................................................................................... 122
348 Numbers 194-198 Canongate (No. 110) ..................................................................................................... 123
349 Numbers 11-15 Canongate (No. 92) ............................................................................................................ 123
350 Golfer's Land (No.95) ................................................................................................................................. 124
351 Numbers 82 and 82A Canongate (No.96) ...................................................................................................... 124
352 St. John's Close (No. 100) .........................................................................................................................p.178
353 Chessel's Buildings, 240 Canongate (No. 114) ..............................................................................................p.180
354 The University (No. 57); facade from S.E. ..................................................................................................... 125
355 Ditto quadrangle from S.E. ............................................................................... 126
356 St. George's Church (No.124); from N.E. ...................................................................................................... 127
357 St. Andrew Square (No. 127); the Royal Bank of Scotland ................................................................................ 128
358 Ditto Number 35......................................................................................................................... 128
359 Ditto Number 36....................................................................................................................... 128
360 General Register House (No.129) from S.W. .................................................................................................. 129
361 Queen Street (No.132); Numbers 66 and 67 ................................................................................................... 130
362 Ditto Number 8 ........................................................................................................................ 130
363 Ditto Number 64 ...................................................................................................................... 131
364 Ditto entrance to Number 48 ...................................................................................................... 131
365 Number 5B York Place (No. 126); plaster vault ................................................................................................. 132
366 Queen Street (No. 132); ceiling in entrance hall of Number 8 ............................................................................. 132
367 West Warriston House (no. 171); drawing-room ceiling ....................................................................................... 132
368-370 Queen Street (No. 132); ceilings in Number 8 ............................................................................................. 132
371 Castle Street (No. 138); Numbers 38-43 and 45-49 ........................................................................................ 132
372 Ditto Numbers 51-55 and 57-61 ......................................................................................... 133
373 Charlotte Square (No. 140); centre of N. side ................................................................................................... 134
374 Ditto from N.E. .......................................................................................................... 135
375 Ditto N. side ................................................................................................................. 136
376 Ditto N. end of W. side ................................................................................................... 137
377 Ditto N. end of E. side .................................................................................................... 137
378 Ditto ceiling on first floor of Number 1 .............................................................................. 138
379 Ditto ceiling in Number 6 ................................................................................................ 138
xiii |
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GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Treaty and Well-beloved Sir GEORGE MACDONALD, Knight Commander of Our Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Master of Arts, Fellow of the British Academy, Doctor of Laws, President of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland;
THOMAS HASTIE BRYCE, ESQUIRE, Master of Arts, Doctor of Medicine, Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Royal Society, Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Emeritus Professor of Anatomy, University of Glasgow;
Sir IAN COLQUHOUN, Baronet, Knight of Our Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, Companion of Our Distinguished Service Order, Lieutenant Colonel in Our Glare Army Reserve of Officers, Doctor of Laws;
ALEXANDR ORMISTON CURLE, Esquire, Commander of Our Royal Victorian Order, Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland;
JAMES CURLE, Esquire, Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland;
REGINALD FRANCIS JOSEPH FAIRLIE, Esquire, Royal Scottish Academician, Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland :-
JAMES ARCHIBALD MORRIS, Royal Scottish Academician, Fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects, Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland; and
Sir JOHN MAXWELL STIRLING MAXWELL, Baronet, Knight of Our most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, of Scotland;
GREETING !
xv |
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After the entry for Reginald Fairlie, the text ends with a colon and a dash. That seems inconsisent with the document format but I transcribe it the way it's written. I believe it should be a semicolon. |
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| edinburgh-1951/-03_018 |
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred and eight, to the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland, nominating, constituting and appointing Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilization and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707, and to specify those which seem most worthy of preservation.
And whereas you the said Sir George Macdonald are Chairman of the said Commission appointed by His late Majority King George the Fifth by Warrant under His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the twenty-seventy of April, Nineteen hundred and thirty-four, you the said Thomas Hastie Bryce are a Member of the said Commission appointed thereto by Letters Patent as aforesaid, you the said Sir Iain Colquhoun, Baronet, Alexander Ormiston Curle, James Curle, James Archibald Morris, and Sir John Maxwell Stirling Maxwell, Baronet, are Members of the said Commission duly appointed thereto by His late Majesty King George the Fifth by Warrants under His Royal Sign Manual and you the said Reginald Francis Joseph Fairlie are a Member of the said Commission appointed thereto by Warrant under Our Royal Sign Manual.
And whereas We have deemed it expedient for the more effectual carrying out of an inventory of the Monuments and Constructions in Our Ancient City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh that some of the Monuments and Constructions of date later than the year 1707 should be therein included.
Now Know ye that Our Will and Pleasure is that in making an inventory of the Monuments and Constructions in Our Ancient City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh you Our said Commissioners shall include such Monuments and Constructions from the year 1707 to the year 1815 as seem to you in your discretion to be worthy of mention therein.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the first day of December, 1938, in the second Year of Our Reign.
by His Majesty's Command,
JOHN COLVILLE.
XVI |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
___________________________________________________________________________
II
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved Sir JOHN MAXWELL STIRLING MAXWELL, Baronet, Knight
of Our Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas the office of Chairman of the said Commission is now vacant by the
death of Sir George Macdonald, Knight Commander of Our Most Honourable Order
of the Bath.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said Sir John Maxwell Stirling
Maxwell, one of the Members of the said Commission, to be Chairman thereof, subject
to the provisions of the aforesaid Letters Patent.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the seventeenth day of October, 1940, in the
fourth Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
ERNEST BROWN.
xvii |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
___________________________________________________________________________
III
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved VERE GORDON CHILDE, Esquire, Doctor of Letters, Doctor
of Science, Fellow of the British Academy, Professor of Prehistoric Archaeology,
University of Edinburgh :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said Vere Gordon Childe to be one
of the Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the sixth day of May, 1942, in the sixth Year
of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
THOMAS JOHNSTON.
xviii |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
___________________________________________________________________________
IV
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved WILLIAM MACKAY MACKENZIE, Esquire, Master of Arts,
Doctor of Letters :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said William Mackay Mackenzie to
be one of the Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the twenty-seventh day of February, 1943, in
the seventh Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
THOMAS JOHNSTON.
xix |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
___________________________________________________________________________
V
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved VIVIAN HUNTER GALBRAITH, Esquire, Master of Arts,
Fellow of the British Academy, Professor of History, University of Edinburgh :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said Vivian Hunter Galbraith to be
one of the Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the twenty-seventh day of February, 1943, in
the seventh Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
THOMAS JOHNSTON.
xx |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
___________________________________________________________________________
VI
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved IAN ARCHIBALD RICHMOND, Esquire, Master of Arts,
Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said Ian Archibald Richmond to be
one of the Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the twenty-fifth day of April, 1944, in the
the eighth Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
THOMAS JOHNSTON.
xxi |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION
___________________________________________________________________________
VII
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved STUART PIGGOTT, Esquire, Bachelor of Letter, Fellow
of the Society of Antiquaries, Professor of Prehistoric Archaeology, University of
Edinburgh :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said Stuart Piggott to be one of the
Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the twenty-fifth day of October, 1946, in
the tenth Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
J. WESTWOOD.
xxii |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EDINBURGH
______________________________________________________________
VIII
GEORGE R.I.
GEORGE THE SIXTH, by the Grace of God, of Great Britain, Ireland and the
British Dominions beyond the Seas, King,
Defender of the Faith, to
Our Trusty and Well-beloved WILLIAM DOUGLAS SIMPSON, Esquire. Master of Arts,
Doctor of Letters, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, Fellow of the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland :--
GREETING !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty King Edward the Seventh by Warrant under
His Royal Sign Manual bearing date the seventh day of February, Nineteen hundred
and eight, to direct the issue of Letters Patent under the Seal appointed by the Treaty
of Union to be kept and made use of in place of the Great Seal of Scotland appointing
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and
Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation,
and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707.
And whereas a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so appointed.
Now know ye that We reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge,
discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed and do by these
Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said William Douglas Simpson to
be one of the Commissioners for the purposes of the said Inquiry.
Given at Our Court at Saint James's the fifth day of December, 1946, in the tenth
Year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
JOSEPH WESTWOOD.
xxiii |
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LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
IN THE CITY OF EDINBURGH
WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM
MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION
BURGH OF EDINBURGH Canongate Tolbooth, 163 Canongate (No.105).
Edinburgh Castle* (No.1). 167-9 Canongate (No.106).
St Giles' Church (No.2). Moray House, 174 Canongate (No.107).
Tron Church (No.3). Bible Land, 187-97 Canongate (No.108).
Magdalen Chapel (No.6). 194-8 Canongate (No.110).
Greyfriars Church (No.7). 6-14 Chessel's Court, 240 Canongate (No.114).
Cannonball House, Castle Hill (No.8). Canongate Burgh Cross (No.119).
Milne's Court, 517 Lawnmarket (No.12).
Gladstone's Land, 483-9 Lawnmarket (No.14). NEW TOWN AND INNER SUBURBS
Lady Stair's House, 477 Lawnmarket (No.15). St. Cuthbert's Church (No.125).
312-28 Lawnmarket (No.19). Register House, Princes Street (No.129).
City Chambers, 249 High Street (No.23). Charlotte Square as a whole (No.140).
Parliament House, Parliament Square (No.29). Remaining examples of original construction
Moubray House, 53, High Street (No.38). George Square (No.144).
"John Knox's House," 45 High Street (No.39).
1 Grassmarket (No.52). OUTLYING DISTRICTS
74-8 Grassmarket (No.53). St. Anthony's Chapel (No.167).
Candlemakers' Hall, 36 Candlemaker Row (No.55). Pilrig House, Pilrig Street (No.169).
Heriot's Hospital (No.56). Drylaw House (No.173).
University, South Bridge (No.57). Easter Coates House, Palmerston Place (No.177).
Surgeons' Hall, Drummond Street (No.58). Murrayfield House (No.178).
Flodden Wall, all fragments (No.59). Ravelston House (No.179.
Telfer Wall (No.60). Beechwood House (No.180).
Mercat Cross, High Street (No.61). Roseburn House (No.182).
Statue of Charles II, Parliament Square (No.62). Merchiston Castle (No.185).
Bruntsfield House, Whitehouse Loan (No.186).
BURGH OF CANONGATE The Hermitage of Braid (No.187).
Palace of Holyroodhouse (No.87). and remains of Morton Hall (No.191).
Holyrood Abbey* (No 86). Duddingston House (No.192).
Canongate Church (No.89).
Abbey Strand (No.90). LEITH, NEWHAVEN, AND RESTALRIG
White Horse Close, 31, Canongate (No.93). St. Triduana's Well, Restalrig Church (No. 220).
Queensberry House, 64 Canongate (No.94). 13 Waters' Close, Leith (No.225).
82 and 82A Canongate (No.96). National Bank of Scotland, Bernard Street, Leigh
142 Canongate (No.102). (No.227).
Acheson House, 146 Canongate (No.103). Custom House, Commercial Street, Leith (No.229).
Huntly House, 146 Canongate (No.104). Craigentinny House, Restalrig (No.231).
*Crown property.
xxxi |
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| edinburgh-1951/-03_033 |
ABBREVIATED TITLES USED IN REFERENCES
Accts. L.H.T. -- Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, H.M. General Register
House, Edinburgh, 1844-75.
Acts Parl. Scot. -- Acts of the Parliaments of Scotland, Record edition.
Arnot, History -- Arnot, H. , The History of Edinburgh, Edinburgh, 1788.
B.R. -- Extracts from the Records of the Burgh of Edinburgh, Scottish Burgh
Records Society, Edinburgh.
Calendar -- Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland, H.M. General Register
House, Edinburgh.
Cast. Dom. Arch.-- McGibbon, D., and Ross, T., The Castellated and Domestic Architecture
of Scotland, Edinburgh, 1887-92.
Collegiate Churches -- Registrum Domus de Soltre necnon Ecclesie Collegiate S. Trinitatis prope
Edinburgh, etc., Bannatyne Club, Edinburgh, 1861.
Diurnal -- A Diurnal of Remarkable Occurrents that have passed within the Country
of Scotland since the Death of King James the Fourth till the Year
MDLXXV, Bannatyne Club, Edinburgh, 1833.
Early Travellers -- Hume Brown, Early Travellers in Scotland, Edinburgh, 1891.
Edinburgh Charters -- Charters and Other Documents relating to the City of Edinburgh, Scottish
Burgh Records Society, Edinburgh, 1871.
Exch. Rolls -- The Exchequer Rolls of Scotland, H.M. General Register House,
Edinburgh.
Inventory of [County] -- Royal Commission on Ancient and Historical Monuments (Scotland) :
Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions
in [the county stated].
Lib. Cart. St. Crucis -- Liber Cartarum Sancte Crucis, Bannatyne Club, Edinburgh, 1840.
Maitland, History -- Maitland, W., The History of Edinburgh, Edinburgh, 1753.
Morison, Decisions -- Morison, Decisions of the Court of Session, from its institution until the
separation of the Court into two divisions in 1808, Edinburgh, 1811.
New Stat. Acct. -- New Statistical Account of Scotland, Edinburgh, 1845.
Nicoll, Diary -- Nicoll, J., A Diary of Public Transactions and Other Occurrences,
Chiefly in Scotland, Bannatyne Club, Edinburgh, 1836.
O.E.C. -- The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, Edinburgh.
P.S.A.S. -- Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Edinburgh.
R.P.C. -- Register of the Privy Council of Scotland, H.M. General Register House,
Edinburgh.
Reg, Cart. St. Egid. -- Registrum Cartarum Ecclesie Sancti Egidii de Edinburgh, Bannatyne
Club, Edinburgh, 1859.
Reg. Mag. Sig. -- Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum, H.M. General Register
House, Edinburgh.
Reg. Sec. Sig. -- Registrum Secreti Sigilli Regum Scotorum, H.M. General Register
House, Edinburgh.
Royal Comm., General Report -- General Report of the Commissioners appointed to enquire into the state of
Municipal Corporations in Scotland, 1835.
Royal Comm., Local Reports -- Local Reports of the Commissioners appointed to enquire into the state of
Municipal Corporations in Scotland, 1835.
S.H.S -- Scottish History Society.
S.R.S.-- Scottish Record Societv.
S.T.S. -- Scottish Texts Society.
Stat. Acct. -- The Statistical Account of Scotland, Edinburgh, 1791-9.
Trans. Scot. Eccles. Soc. -- Transactions of the Scottish Ecclesiological Society, Aberdeen.
Wilson, Memorials -- Wilson, Sir D., Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time, Edinburgh,
1848.
xxxiii |
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| edinburgh-1951/-03_034 |
INTRODUCTION
TO THE INVENTORY OF THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF THE CITY OF EDINBURGH
1. The City and its setting. 2. History:- A. The Burgh of Edinburgh (i) to the 15th century - merchants
and craftsmen; (ii) to the Union of the Crowns ; (iii) between the Unions ; (iv) the Augustan Age. B. The
Burgh of Canongate. C. Leith. D. Portsburgh. E. The Baronies. F. The Town mills. 3. The Town walls.
4. Domestic building from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century. 5. Wells and water-supply. 6. The development
of the New Town.
1. THE CITY AND ITS SETTING
The rock of Edinburgh has no doubt been occupied
as a fortress from very early times, but it can
first be identified in the Brythonic form of Dineidin
in the old Welsh poem, the Gododdin of Aneurin,
dating from the end of the sixth century.1 The
Pictish symbol-stone (p.215) found near the Well-
House Tower, in Princes Street Gardens, belongs
approximately to this period. The name became,
in Gaelic, Dùn-éideann or "Dunedene", which in
English is "Edineburg,"2 where Din, Dùn and
Burg all have the same meaning of a fortress.
The second element in the name is probably the
name of the district within which the Dark-Age fort
of Din Eidyn lay. The suggestion from the twelfth-
century forms Edwinesburgh (Symeon of Durham)
and Edwinesburgensis, the latter an adjectival use
in the Holyrood foundation-charter, of a derivation
from Edwin, the great Northumbrian king (617-33)
can be disregarded, as nothing is known of any
specific connection with that king. In the Pictish
Chronicle the place is called oppidum Eden, oppidum
being in this chronicle the usual rendering of Dun,3
and it is said to have been vacated by the Angles
in the reign if Indulph (Indolb) and left to the
Scots under that King. This surrender probably
first opened the way to the infiltration of Gaelic
settlers who have left their place-names in or about
Edinburgh as in the eastern Lowland shires, names
such as Braid, Corstorhine, Dalry, Craiglockhart,
Drumsheugh or Drumselch, Dunsapie, and Glen-
corse.4 Macbeth of Liberton was a prominent figure
in the time of David I. The Gaelic conquest
of Lothian had been assured by the victory of Malcolm
II at Carham on the Tweed in 1018 and Dunedin
had ceased to be a Border fortress. Its character
as a fortress, however, was still expressed in its name,
and to the Norman immigrants it became Castrum
Puellarum, "The Maidens' Castle" - a name very
widely distributed but ot yet convincingly explained.5
But if the meaning of its ancient name is now
doubtful, the site of Edinburgh has a geographical
position which fully accounts for its importance in
the Dark Ages. Among the numerous hill-forts of
that period in the region, Edinburgh alone commands
the point where the Roman route from the South
reached the Firth of Forth. Here is, then, the
appropriate point of concentration for trade and
political influence, however irregular the one or
shadowy the other, in an age when these things were
inevitably centered in a chieftain's stronghold. The
same factor guaranteed the site's future. The
situation was bound to attract the Angles, whose
realm of Bernicia was ruled from a coastal fastness
and owed its cohesion to a combined use of the
North Sea and the arterial land-route provided by
Dere Street, the Roman road from Tees to Forth.
The Normans, whose eye for a commanding situation
was even keener, must have been no less alive to the
happy conjunction of advantages. Thus, it is the
1 Ifor Williams, Canu Aneirin (1938, 1. II58; Antiquity,
xiii (1939), pp. 25-34; ibid., xvi (1942), p. 237-57.
2 Watson, The History of the Celtic Place-names of Scotland,
pp. 40-1. 3 Skene, Celtic Scotland, i. p. 365. 4 Watson,
op.cit., pp. 143-5.
5 Watson, (op.cit.,pp 150, 342), accepts one of the tradi-
tional explanations. But see also Wheeler, Maiden Castle,
Dorset, pp 8 ff.; also Loomis, Arthurian Tradition and
Chrétien de Troyes, pp. 108 ff.
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Whatever may have been the relation of the places before, Edinburgh by a confirming charter in 1329 was granted the Port of Leith, and continued, through a frequently troubled connection, to enjoy controlling powers over that community for just over five hundred years.1 In the end Leith was included within the city boundaries. Near by King James IV in 1506 established a dock and shipbuilding yard at the "New Haven," whereupon five years later Edinburgh, in fear of rival to their port of Leith, purchased the site from the King with all its privileges. Canongate, the ancient burgh of regality, stood literally at the door of the city, but in 1636
[illustration]
Fig. 6. - Boundaries of the City of Edinburgh as established in 1933.
Edinburgh, as part of a financial "deal,"2 acquired the superiority, and rather more than two hundred years later its incorporation in the city followed. Broughton also was a regality appertaining to Holyrood3 and this, too, with its burgh was conveyed to Edinburgh by the financial arrangement of 1636. The name survives in streets of that quarter. To the south of the city was a settlement on lands that formed part of the extensive barony of Inverleith, but these were assigned to the city by a new proprietor in 1648, whereupon the King erected the community into the burgh of barony of Portsburgh.4 Wester Restalrig, of which Calton Hill was part, was sold to the city in 1724.5 The laying-out of the "New Town" beyond the North Loch, an undertaking which began in 1767, was a revolutionary action in the city's development. On all these and other constituent parts in the existing complex further information is provided is subsequent pages.
2. HISTORY
A. THE BURGH OF EDINBURGH
(i) To the fifteenth century-merchants and craftsmen. Lack of material makes it impossible to provide a detailed, consecutive account of the historical occupation of this site. The position held no attraction for the Roman military engineer. The Angles, whose departure in the 10th century has already been mentioned, like the Dark Age chieftains who preceded and the Scots who followed them, seem only to have occupied a stronghold on the Rock. John of Fordun, writing towards the end of the 14th century, records that Margaret, Queen and Saint, died in 1093 in the "Maidens Castle" (in castro puellarum),6 which we may take to be the primitive type of fortress on the Rock, since the mediaeval castle proper was not yet being built in Scotland. This does not make it an habitual royal residence, which rather was at Dunfermline.7
Of the existence of a burgh or town near the castle in the following century we learn only from incidental references in charters of David I-no remains of the town-houses of this early period, or indeed of any period before the third quarter of the sixteenth century, have survived to be included in the Inventory. Though Edinburgh is a royal burgh, no charter of foundation exists in its case any more than in those of the other royal burghs known to have been created by that King. Canongate and St. Andrews of that time were baronial erections for which there had to be a specific delegation of royal authority. For a royal burgh recognition was so far good enough, as indeed was possible also in England. In one of the earliest royal erections by charter, however, that of Dumbarton by King William in 1222, that burgh and its burgesses are granted all the liberties and customs enjoyed by the King's burgesses in Edinburgh. "Liberties" in this connection are franchises, that is privileges, and the "customs" (consuetudines) are the practice or law of a burgh, such as "watch and ward" (vigilia) and enclosure of one's property (claustura), from which King David
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1 See separate section on Leigh, p. 1v.
2 See p. living. 1634-1651, No. 2021. See here p. lix.
3 Reg. Mag. Sig., 1306-1424, No. 847.
4 Reg. Mag. Sig.,
5 O.E.C., xviii, p. 50.
6 Chronica, v, cap. xxi.
7 Ibid., cap. xv
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ownership; but in 1478 we find their revenue being drawn upon to provide a pension for the Provost of the church of St.Giles, and in the same year it is
recorded that they were released to tacksmen. But both millers and tacksmen had dubious reputations, and in the later 16th century questions were being raised about the management of the mills. Accordingly in 1596 the magistrates themselves took over their direction, appointing on terms an overseer who was also to have the Ports watched "that the toun be nocht defrawdet of the multures ather of ry, malt or quheitt."1 This arrangement was not a success, and in less than two years a return was made to the old system of tacksmen, a provision being made that, to safeguard the Town's interest, there should be periodical investigations by a bailie, the Dean of Guild, the Treasurer, two councillors and the Deacon of the Baxters 2 (bakers).
The number of the Town's mills was increased by the acquisition of the Canongate and Broughton properties, including Canon Mills, and of the Bonnington mills, which were bought from the Logans of Restalrig in 1617.3 In 1659 "ane unhard and unkoth storme of wind and weit" and "great diludges of watteris" destroyed eleven mills belonging to Edinburgh and five belonging to Heriot's Hospital, all upon the Water of Leith, with their dams, wheels, and other equipment.4 By 1710 the city owned no fewer than sixteen mills, when it raised a suit against the bakers and brewers for "abstracted multures," basing its case upon the charters of 1329, 1603, and 1636, while the defenders alleged high prices and dishonest dealing. The Court of Session held that the charters constituted a thirlage on all brewers and bakers in the royalty, that is in respect of malt-mills and grain-mills, and decided in favour of the Town.5
In the eighteenth century the Village of Dean, or Water of Leith, consisted of a single short street with two or three lanes leading off it, the inhabitants including not only those employed about the mill but also agricultural labourers on the adjoining farms and quarrymen at Craigleith.
3. THE TOWN WALLS
Reference has already been made to the walls of the city as they appear on record, and the possible or more definite course that each followed in succession is indicated in Fig.35. Of the line followed by the earlier walls, however, there is no direct evidence, and that attributed to them must rest in the main on such general considerations as the configurations of the site or on inferences drawn from a very few scraps of material. The Nether Bow (arcus inferior) and West Port (janua occidentalis) of the earliest notice 6 may well mark the eastern and western limits of the burgh, but, lacking knowledge of what these were, one is not in a position to be more precise in their location. This enclosure, too, it may be accepted from analogy with other cases, 7 was probably a palisaded mound, the fact that the steep sides of the ridge, on which the city stood, dropped to ground which was swampy for the most part making the usual ditch unnecessary.
A fragmentary relic marks the substitution for the palisaded mound of a mortared stone wall. In 1833 an excavation at the foot of the slope south of Parliament Square disclosed portions of two walls, one running along the north side of the Old Meal-Market, and the other of similar construction parallel to it and some five or six feet farther in.8 The former can perhaps be identified with the "King's Wall" first mentioned as murgus regius in 1427, 9 when it is referred to as forming the boundary of burgess properties, and is thereafter frequently mentioned in the 15th century. The inner wall is then of an earlier date, but there is no further evidence as to the line that it followed. The town had been expanding, as in 1335-6 we have notice of a "new street" (novus vicus),10 and this may have to be allowed for.
The "King's Wall" is so named because its erection was begun in response to a license by James II in 1450 to the provost and community of Edinburgh enabling them to "fosse, bulwark, wall, toure, turate, and uther wais to strengthen oure foresaid
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1. B.R., v (1589-1603), pp.166 f. "Multures" were the payments in kind for the grinding of grain.
2. Ibid., p.232.
3. B.R., vi (1604-1626), pp. 164 f.
4. Nicoll, Diary, p.249.
5. Fountainhall, Decisions of the Lords of Council and Session, ii, p.610; Morison, Decisions, No.8902.
6. See p.xl.
7. Inverness for example with its palisade mound and ditch and the towns "with good ditches and palisades" mentioned as captured in 1333, in the 14th century Chronique pf Jean le Bel (ed. Societe de l'histoire de France), i. p.110.
8. The Scotsman, April 13th, 1833; C.Maclaren, Select Writings, i, p.387.
9. Reg. Cart. St.Egid., p.50.
10.Calendar, iii p.346. Cf.here p.xli
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Not much military history is attached to the walls and ports, but they were probably effective enough for peace-time domestic purposes, such as the exaction of customs on goods coming to market and for checking the entry or evasion of criminals, lepers, or the plague-stricken. Somerset's army in 1544 forced an entry by the Nether Bow Port,1 and perhaps as a consequence repairs had to be made to "the ports and wallis" three years later.2 In the Reformation struggle of 1559 the walls could shelter the townsmen worsted in a skirmish with the French troops from Leith.3 In the civil war that marked the close of Queen Mary's reign and the minority of James VI measures were taken for the defence of the walls, which also at times suffered maltreatment by citizens.4 Once more when, in 1640, Oliver Cromwell's invasion threatened the capital the walls were prepared for resistance,5 but played no part in the campaign. In the Jacobite rising of 1715 the measures taken for defence prompted a citizen to write that "Our town is turned into a fortification." The same was done at the time of the "Forty-five" rising, but the Jacobites by a ruse entered at the West Bow, and the only opposition was from the Castle.
Already, however, wall and ports were taking on the character of a hindrance to free traffic, through a Government proposal in 1737 to remove the Nether Bow Port was strongly resisted. Then in 1764 a "Merchant Citizen" issued a pamphlet, voicing6 the resentment of merchants from outside at the vexatious stoppages and delays to which they were subjected in the search for smuggled goods. They "altogether decline" says the pamphlet, "to deal with the merchant shopkeepers of Edinburgh because there is a wall surrounding the city and Revenue officers and waiters stationed at all the Gates and Entries of the city night and day...to stop, detain and seize their goods at their pleasure, which is not done in any city, town or corporation in all Britain." The writer urges the people to keep their ports open day and night, to lay by the old gates as old lumber, and to make more ways of entrance into the town or even remove the walls altogether. In the same year as the publication of this pamphlet, the Nether Bow Port was at least removed to facilitate communication. Nothing more, however, was done for another twenty years, when in 1787 there was a clearance of the greater part of the ancient barriers, the rest of which suffered the same fate between 1827 and 1837. The only fragments to survive were the parts of the Flodden Wall and the Telfer Wall described in the Inventory Nos. 59 and 60).
4. DOMESTIC BUILDING FROM THE SIXTEENTH TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
In modern Edinburgh a tenement implies a building of three or more storeys which contains a series of flats. In earlier times, however, the word "tenement": was used to mean a holding of land, while the building that stood upon it was usually called a "land," sometimes a "mansioun-land," and at other times a "lugeing" (lodging) or a "bigging" (building). In records of the 16th and 17th centuries such buildings are described as situated either on a street, or in wynds or closes7 - a wynd being a lane or thoroughfrare and close a cul-de-sac. As far as their outward appearance goes, Fig. 59 shows that in 1544-the date of illustration-even the larger houses in the burghs of Edinburgh and Canongate had no more than two storeys and an attic. The majority were thatched and the other rile-roofed. None of these houses exists to-day, but some information as to their accommodation and that of their immediate successors cn be gleaned from the protocol books and other records. In 1501, for example, Thomas Neilson inherited property in Niddrie's Wynd consisting of "a hall, chamber and working house (domum operarium) above, and two
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1 See p. 123. 2 B.R., ii (1528-1557), p. 130. 3 Diurnal, p. 54. 4 B.R., iii (1557-1571), p. 258; iv (1573-1589), pp. 78, 80, 82, 101 and 372. 5 B.T. viii (1641-1655), pp. 253 f. 6 The Paradeis Regain'd or the City at Liberty, etc. 7 A close is simply an enclosed place. The late Mr. Boog-Watson suggested that the wynds, apart from the few that had been thoroughfares from the beginning, were probably "closes" in the first instance. In his opinion the first houses to be erected upon the burghal holdings were semi-detached cottages of a single storey, on the free side of which ran a path or lane to give access to the arable ground in the yard behind. When the yards themselves came to be built over the lanes were extended, sometimes until they met a thoroughfare, but they remained private property and in many cases were closed by a gate. By use and wont some of the lanes became wynds or public thoroughfares.
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Within the next half-century the supply was again increased by the collection, in seven reservoirs, of water from the N. side of the Pentlands. In 1869 the Edinburgh Water Company transferred their undertaking to the Edinburgh and District Water Trust; ten years later that body tapped a source in the Moorfoot Hills, and in 105 another at Talla. Cf. Edinburgh corporation, The Water Supply of Edinburgh.
6. THE ORIGIN AND GROWTH OF THE NEW TOWN
The origin of the modern city's development must be looked for in the second half of the 17th century. by that t ime the capital was thoroughly overcrowded; circumscribed as it was by walls within which all burgesses were bound to maintain a resident (;. lv), its congestion could not be materially relieved until the valleys to the north and south were bridged and the lands beyond them brought into easy reach of the centre of the town. As early as 1888 l Lord Provost Sir Magnus Spence made a journey to Whitehall and there secured the powers necessary for extension; while to help matters on the Town was permitted to appropriate towards the bridging project any surplus and interest that might accrue from the Moodie mortification (cf. No. 89), together with the proceeds, which had hitherto gone to the Crown, of licenses permitting cellars and vaults to be constructed under the thoroughfares. But the Revolution immediately followed, and the proposed extension had to be postponed. Nevertheless, two improvement schemes, Milne's square and the Milne's Court (No. 12), were carried out by private enterprise at this time - both on sites within the town which were cleared for the purpose.
The general prosperity which came to the country in the course of the 18th century was not reflected in the buildings of the Capital until a comparatively late date, as only small scattered areas were available for development within the royalty of the burgh. Among the earlier improvements of the 18th century may be mentioned James Court (No. 13) constructed in 1707; Argyle Square, now covered by the Royal Scottish Museum, which followed in 1742; Adam Square, which rose twenty years later at the N.E. corner of the present Chambers Street, together with St. John's Street and New Street, both in Canongate. But the scheme of 1688 had not been entirely forgotten. From time to tome proposals for extension were revived, notably by the far-seeing Lord Provost Drummond, whose first term of office began in 1725. At first these proposals met with considerable opposition, but extension could not be indefinitely delayed as Edinburgh was fast becoming more congested than any other town in Europe. Although its main streets were broad they were encroached on by the markets; the closes and wynds were so steep, narrow and filthy as to be intolerable nuisances; and their crowded, lofty houses, served by dark and dirty common stairs, stood so close together that the supply of light and fresh air was quite inadequate. Moreover, there were hardly any public buildings of importance, such as a capital city might be expected to possess; for although by the middle of the century Edinburgh was as prosperous as any town other than London she still possessed no suitable Exchange for her merchants, who chose to transact their business in the open air round about the Market Cross (no. 61), nor was there a Record Office or any adequate meeting-place for the magistrates, the Town council, or the Convention of Royal Burghs. Drummond's second term of office began in 1746, while the country was still disturbed by the Jacobite rebellion, and it was not until after 1752, in his third term as Lord Provost, that anything effective could be done. In this year the convention of Royal Burghs pledged their powerful support to proposals for improvement.
In the proposals,as set out in a pamphlet written by Sir Gilbert Elliot (cf.p. 109) public health and convenience took second place to civic pride. As agreed upon by committees chosen by the Town council, the Lords of Session, the Barons of Exchequer, the Faculty of Advocates and the Clerks to the Signet, the improvements were to include the building of an Exchange (No. 23) on the site of ruinous property on the N. side of the High Street and the provision of accommodation for the Law Courts, the Royal Burghs, the Town council, the
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1 O.E.C., xxii, pp. 170-2.
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INVENTORY |
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PLATE 83.
[photograph inserted]
Photograph B. C. Clayton.
FIG. 244. - Advocate's Close (No. 21) from N.
To face p. 88. |
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PLATE 84.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 245. - The exchange Building, Leith (No. 228).
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 246. - The Royal Exchange (No. 23) from S. |
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PLATE 85.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 247. - Fireplace.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 248. - Fireplace in Old Council Chamber.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 249. - Old Council Chamber from W.
THE CITY CHAMBERS (no. 23). |
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PLATE 93.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 277 - Holyrood Abbey (No 86); W. front.
To face p. 128. |
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PLATE 94.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 278. - Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); nave from N.W. |
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PLATE 95.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 279. Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); interior of W. gable. |
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PLATE 96.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 286. - Tribune of W. gable.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 281. - Vault of S. aisle
HOLYROOD ABBEY (No.86). |
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PLATE 97.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 282. Holyrood Abbey (No. 86); bay of N. aisle of nave. |
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PLATE 98.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 283. - Lowermost tier of arcading on W. gable
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 284. - Wall-arcade of S. aisle.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (No. 86). |
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PLATE 99.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 285. - N. door of nave, built by Abbot Crawford.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 286. - E. processional door.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (No. 86). |
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PLATE 100.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 287. - The Palace of Holyroodhouse (No. 87) ; gate-house from N.,
showing remains of Vaulted pend.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 288. - Holyrood Abbey (No. 86) ; N.E. corner of nave,
showing Abbot Crawford's screen and the Countess of Eglinton's tomb.
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probably a version of the Wilson arms, which are: A chevron between three mullets, a crescent for difference. On either side of the shield runs t he motto [A]VXILIVM / A DN[O] with the translation below MY HELP IS OF YE LORD followed by the date 1586 and two sets of initials, I V and H F or H O.
(v) THE BURGH: SITES
(Notes on some vanished buildings contributed by Mr. C.A. Malcolm, M.A., PhD.)
121. Hospital of St. Thomas, Watergate. -According to Maitland, 1 who had evidently had access to the charter, this hospital was founded in 1541 by George Chrichton, Bishop of Dunkeld and previously Abbot of Holyrood, for the maintenance of two chaplains and seven poor folk. In 1582 its patronage fell to the Crown through the forfeiture of Robert Crichton, another bishop of the same see. In 1617 the Privy Council decreed 2 that the "auld chappel" was to be repaired before the king's visit to Holyrood, as it was "decayit" and formed an eyesore in the close vicinity of the palace.
1 History, pp. 154 f. 2 R.P.C., xi, pp. 40 f.
122. Hospital of St. Paul, Leith Wynd. -The mediaeval hospital of St. Paul stood on the E. side of Leith Wynd. It was founded by Archibald Crawford, Abbot of Holyrood, in 1469, when he dedicated it to "St. Paul the Apostle and Doctor."1 After the battle of Dunbar in 1650 it was used, first by Leslie and then by Cromwell, as a hospital for sick and wounded soldiers. It retained it pauper inmates until 1750, when it was sold and the paupers were transferred to the new Charity Workhouse, built in 1730. During the 17th and 18th centuries it also served as an almshouse, a house of correction, a training-school for children and a textile factory.
1 Calendar of Papal registers, xii, p. 761.
THE NEW TOWN AND INNER SUBURBS
(i) ECCLESIASTICAL
123. St. Andrew's Church, George Street. - As mentioned on p.188, Craig, in planning the New Town, proposed to end the E. vista of George Street in St. Andrew's Church, which was to stand in the centre of the E. side of St. Andrew Square. That site, however, was pre-empted by Sir Laurence Dundas in 1722 (cf. No. 127); accordingly when the church came to be built by "Major Fraser of the Engineers"1 it was placed on a site on the N. side of George Street midway between St. David Street and Hanover Street. Although 1785 is given in most works of reference as the year in which it was built it is represented on Ainslie's map of 1780, with the Physicians' Hall directly opposite on the site now occupied by the Commercial Bank of Scotland.
Standing in a small court set back from the street, the church consists of an elliptical body behind a portico, the latter surmounted by a graceful tower and spire in the manner of James Gibbs, the Aberdonian architect who practiced so successfully south of the Bordcer during the first half of the 18th century. The portico, of polished ashlar, is tetrastyle with Composite columns supporting a triangular pediment with an oculus in the tympanum. At the back of the portico is a tall central doorway with a curvilinear pediment surmounted by a window. Both openings are flanked by blind windows, framed within pilasters in antis to the columns, the lower ones having triangular pediments. The tower, also of polished ashlar, is in three storeys, and changes plan at each level, the lowest part being rectangular, the central one octagonal, the uppermost one circular. The two upper tiers are ordered, Doric below and Ionic above. The bell chamber contains a chime of eight bells provided in 1789. The graceful spire, which rises to a height of 168 ft., is said to be an addition. Apparently a competition was held for its design and this was won by a Mr. McLeish, who was rewarded with the freedom of the City and a premium of sixty guineas. Mr. McLeish's design was carried out, with some alterations, by Major Fraser in 1787.
In contrast to the portico and tower the boy of the church, which rests on an undercroft, is very plain and is carried out in droved ashlar. The principal axis runs E. and W. At either end is a lofty doorway with a triangular pediment. There are two tiers of plain windows, those of the lower tier having segmental heads and those of the upper semicircular ones. The roof is slated. The portico opens into a vestibule, which gives direct access into the church and has at each side a stair leading to the gallery. The interior was remodelled in 1862. On the N. is the pulpit, which originally had stairs at each side. Opposite this is the gallery sweeping round from N.W. to N.E. The plaster ceiling is enriched in a later version of the Adam style.
1 Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural Association, ii. p. 220.
124. St. George's Church, Charlotte Square. - In order to close in the George Street vista, Craig, in his plan for the New Town, reserved the central site on the W. side of Charlotte Square for
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PLATE 125.
FIG. 354. - The University (No.57); facade from S.E.
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PLATE 126.
FIG. 355. - The University (No. 57) quadrangle from S.E. |
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PLATE 127.
FIG 356. - St. George's Church (No. 124) from N.E. |
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PLATE 128.
FIG. 357. - The Royal Bank of Scotland.
FIG. 358. - Number 35. FIG. 359. - Number 36.
ST. ANDREW SQUARE (NO. 127). |
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PLATE 129.
FIG. 360.-General Register House (No. 129) from S.W. |
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PLATE 130.
FIG. 361. - Numbers 66 and 67.
FIG 362. - Number 8
QUEEN STREET (No. 132). |
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