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[Note]
443
RT
A1.1
INV (8)
[Crown]
The Royal Commission
on the Ancient & Historical
Monuments of Scotland |
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[Note]
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian
[Picture inserted]
(From photo by B. C. Clayton).
FIG. 1. - PRESTON CROSS (No 161).
Frontispiece |
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[Coat of Arms]
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
ON ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL
MONVMENTS & CONSTRVCTIONS
OF SCOTLAND
EIGHTH REPORT
WITH INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE
COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN
[Symbol]
EDINBURGH
1924
Edinburgh : Published by His Majesty's Stationery Office. To be purchased directly from H.M. Stationery Office at the following addresses :-
120 George Street, Edinburgh ; Adastral House, Kingsway London, W.C. 2, and 28 Abingdon Street, London, S.W. 1 ; York Street,
Manchester ; or 1 St. Andrew's Crescent, Cardiff ; or through any Bookseller.
Price £1 7s 6d Net. |
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CONTENTS
-- PAGE
ROYAL WARRANT APPOINTING DR. GEORGE MACDONALD TO BE AN ADDITIONAL
COMMISSIONER -- ii
EIGHTH REPORT OF ROYAL COMMISSION -- iii
LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY
OF EAST LOTHIAN OR HADDINGTON WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST
WORTHY OF PRESERVATION -- v
LIST OF PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS -- vii
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE -- xii
INTRODUCTION TO INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND
CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN OR HADDINGTON -- xiii
INVENTORY -- 1
ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA -- 156
GLOSSARY -- 157
INDEX -- 161
MAP OF THE COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN OR HADDINGTON, INDICATING THE POSITION
OF MONUMENTS, ETC., by NUMBERS REFERABLE TO THE INVENTORY -- at end |
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GEORGE R. I.
GEORGE THE FIFTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond the Seas,
King, Defender of the Faith, to Our Trusty and Well-beloved George
Macdonald, Esquire, Companion of Our Most Honourable Order of the
Bath, Master of Arts, Fellow of the British Academy, Doctor of Letters,
Doctor of Laws, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland,
Secretary of the Committee of Our Privy Council on Education in Scot-
land, -Greeting !
WHEREAS it pleased His late Majesty by Letters Patent under the
Seal appointed by the Treaty of Union to be kept and made use of in place
of the Great Seal of Scotland bearing date the seventh day of February, 1908,
to appoint Our Right Trusty and Well-beloved Counsellor Sir Herbert Eustace
Maxwell, Baronet, together with the several persons therein mentioned, to be
Commissioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments
and Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture,
civilisation, and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest
times to the year 1707.
AND WHEREAS a vacancy has occurred amongst the Commissioners so
appointed.
NOW KNOW YE that We reposing great trust and confidence in your
knowledge, discretion and ability have nominated, constituted and appointed
and do by these Presents nominate, constitute and appoint you the said
George Macdonald to be one of the Commissioners for the purposes of the
said Inquiry in addition to and together with the other Commissioners named
in the said Letters Patent.
Given at Our Court at Saint James', the ninth day of April, one thousand
nine hundred and twenty-three, in the Thirteenth year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command,
NOVAR.
-- ii |
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EIGHTH REPORT
OF THE
ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE ANCIENT AND
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND
TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
MAY IT PLEASE YOUR MAJESTY, -
We, Your Majesty's Commissioners, appointed to make an Inventory of
the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions connected with or
illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation, and conditions of life of
the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707, and to
specify those which seem most worthy of preservation, humbly present to
Your Majesty this our Eighth Report. In doing so, we must refer with deep
regret to the death of our late colleague Mr. W. T. Oldrieve, F.S.A.Scot.,
F.R.I.B.A., H.R.S.A., formerly Your Majesty's Principal Architect in Scotland,
whose special skill and experience were of great value in our work.
Appended to the Report is a list of the monuments and constructions of
East Lothian, which, in the opinion of Your Commissioners, seem most worthy
of preservation. The list is divided into two groups : (a) those which appear
to be specially in need of protection, and (b) those worthy of preservation
but not in imminent risk of demolition or decay.
Your Commissioners have to express their thanks for the courtesy and
co-operation which they have experienced at the hands of the owners of
historic monuments in the county. They would also thank the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland for the use of illustrations and other facilities.
The present Inventory is of monuments in East Lothian or Haddington-
shire, where the land has long been highly cultivated. It may therefore be
assumed that many structures, especially of the earthwork class, have been
obliterated ; indeed, in some instances, there is direct evidence that this has
been the case. Nevertheless examples of an impressive and significant character
remain. Early ecclesiastical buildings are not numerous, but of such as have
survived, several are in a satisfactory state of preservation. The castellated
structures are of particular interest, including examples which in part at least
are of the earliest period, while several others have been incorporated in
more modern buildings and are still in use. A number of houses of early
domestic type have also been in continuous occupation down to the present
time.
-- iii |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
All the parishes, numbering twenty-four, have provided monuments of
one kind or another. The largest class consists of the seventy-one monuments
which may be grouped as prehistoric, including fortified sites, stone-circles and
cairns ; while the castellated and domestic structures amount to fifty-four,
the ecclesiastical to twenty-nine, and the other items are fragmentary or of minor
types.
In spite of financial and other difficulties Your Majesty's Commissioners
have been able to continue, though on a reduced scale, their survey of monu-
ments in the Western Isles, a part of their work to which they attach particular
importance. They hope to be placed in a position to complete this section
within a short time.
Your Commissioners would express their gratification at the selection to
fill one of the vacancies in their number of Dr. George Macdonald, whose
eminence in the field of Roman Archæology in Britain is well known.
Your Majesty's Commissioners desire in concluding their Report to record
their appreciation of the thorough manner in which Mr. W. Mackay Mackenzie
has carried out his duties as Secretary to the Commission. Not only has he
performed the clerical and editorial work but with the co-operation of one
or other of the architects, Mr. Watson and Mr. Calder, to whom also special
commendation is due, he has personally conducted the survey of monuments
in the Outer Hebrides under unusually disagreeable conditions of weather and
transport. They would remark further that all photographs in the Inventories,
with the exception of the few attributed to other sources, are the work of
members of the Staff.
The issue of the present volume has been delayed by the necessity of
incorporating the results of excavations made at Dirleton Castle and Tantallon
by Your Majesty's Office of Works. Your Commissioners note with satisfaction
that these historic structures have now passed under the control of that
Department and are being put into a condition which will ensure their
preservation.
HERBERT MAXWELL, Chairman.
THOMAS ROSS.
G. BALDWIN BROWN.
ALEXR. O. CURLE.
THOMAS H. BRYCE.
GEO. MACDONALD.
W. MACKAY MACKENZIE, Secretary.
EDINBURGH, 30th June, 1924.
-- iv |
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LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE
COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN
WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION
I. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS SPECIALLY IN NEED OF
PROTECTION.
PARISH. -- ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
Aberlady -- Luffness Convent (No. 1).
Dirleton -- St. Andrew's Church, Gullane (No. 24).
Humbie -- Keith Church (No. 82).
North Berwick -- Cistercian Nunnery (No. 104).
Ormiston -- St. Giles Church and Brass (No. 130).
[PARISH] -- CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
Aberlady -- Redhouse (No. 7).
Dirleton -- Saltcoats Castle (No. 28).
Dunbar -- Dunbar Castle (No. 36).
Haddington -- Barnes Castle (No. 71).
Haddington -- "Bothwell Castle" (No. 72).
Innerwick -- Innerwick Castle (No. 87).
North Berwick -- Bass Castle (No. 108).
Prestonkirk -- Hailes Castle (No. 147).
Tranent -- Elphinstone Tower (No. 192).
Tranent -- Falside Castle (No. 193).
Whitekirk -- Tithe Barn (No. 203).
Whittinghame -- Stoneypath Tower (No. 214).
Yester -- Yester Castle (No. 251).
[PARISH] -- MISCELLANEOUS.
Prestonkirk -- East Linton Bridge (No. 151).
-- v |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
II. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS DESERVING PROTECTION BUT
NOT IN IMMINENT RISK OF DEMOLITION OR DECAY.
PARISH. -- ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
North Berwick -- Old Parish Church (No. 102).
North Berwick -- St. Andrew's Church (No. 103).
Oldhamstocks -- Burial Aisle at east end of Parish Church (No. 123).
Stenton -- Stenton Church (No. 180).
Tranent -- Collegiate Church, Seton (No. 191).
Whitekirk -- Tynninghame Church (No. 201).
Yester -- Collegiate Church of Bothans (No. 250).
[PARISH.] -- CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
North Berwick -- Fenton Tower (No. 107).
Prestonpans -- Preston Tower (No. 156).
[PARISH.] -- FORTS.
Athelstaneford -- The Chesters, Drem (No. 13).
Garvald and Bara -- Greencastle (No. 46).
Garvald and Bara -- The Hopes (No. 257).
Haddington -- Kaeheughs (No. 74).
Prestonkirk -- Traprain Law (No. 148).
Whittinghame -- Friar's Nose (No. 219).
Yester -- Vitrified Fort, Harelaw (No. 254).
[PARISH.] -- STONE CIRCLE.
Whittinghame -- Kingside Hill, Mayshiel (No. 240).
[PARISH.] -- MISCELLANEOUS.
Haddington -- Nungate and Abbey Bridges (Nos. 75 and 76).
Ormiston -- Cross in Village (No. 134).
Prestonpans -- Preston Cross (No. 161).
Note. - The following are under the charge of H.M. Office of Works and not included
in the foregoing lists :
Dirleton -- Dirleton Castle (No. 27).
Haddington -- Choir of Haddington Parish Church (No. 68).
Haddington -- St. Martin's Church (No. 69).
North Berwick -- Tantallon Castle (No. 106).
Oldhamstocks -- Dunglass Collegiate Church (No. 124).
-- vi |
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PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS
INTRODUCTION.
FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE
1 -- Preston Cross -- Frontispiece
2 -- Mural Monument - The Earl of Dunbar -- xx
3 -- Mural Monument - The Earl of Perth -- xx
4 -- Mural Monument - The Earl of Lauderdale -- xx
5 -- Mural Monument - in Collegiate Church, Seton -- xx
6 -- Bronze Spear-head from Belhaven -- xxxii
7 -- Urn from Stobshiel -- xxxii
8 -- Urn from Drem -- xxxii
9 -- Sculptured Stone, Leaston -- xxxiv
10 -- Sculptured Stone, Cockles Smithy -- xxxiv
11 -- Rampart and West Entrance, Kaeheughs Fort -- xxxiv
12 -- Greencastle -- xxxvi
13 -- West Ramparts, The Chesters, Drem -- xxxvi
14 -- Block plan of representative Castles drawn to uniform scale -- xlii
15. -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Innerwick Castle -- xlii
16 -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Tithebarn, Whitekirk -- xlii
17 -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Elphinstone Tower -- xlii
18 -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Whittinghame Tower -- xlii
19 -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Fenton Tower -- xlii
20 -- Castellated and Domestic Structures - Bankton House -- xlii
21 -- Dovecots - Luffness -- xliv
22 -- Dovecots - Dunbar -- xliv
23 -- Dovecots - Nunraw -- xliv
24 -- Dovecots - Pilmuir -- xliv
25 -- Dovecots - Stenton Church -- xliv
26 -- Dovecots - Tantallon Castle -- xliv
27 -- Piscinae - South Transept, Seton -- xlvi
28 -- Piscinae - Choir, Seton -- xlvi
29 -- Piscinae - Bothans -- xlvi
30 -- Bells - Keith Marischal -- xlvi
31 -- Bells - Yester Parish Church -- xlvi
INVENTORY.
PARISH -- FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE IN INVENTORY
Aberlady -- 32 -- Church, Luffness Convent : plan -- 1
Aberlady -- 33 -- Tower, Aberlady Church -- 2
Aberlady -- 34 -- Porch and Tower, Whitekirk -- 2
Aberlady -- 35 -- Earthworks, Luffness : plan -- 4
-- vii |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH -- FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE IN INVENTORY
Aberlady -- 36 -- Ballencrieff House : plan -- 5
Aberlady -- 37 -- Ballencrieff Granary : plan -- 5
Aberlady -- 38 -- Redhouse : plan -- 6
Aberlady -- 39 -- Redhouse : from the south -- 6
Aberlady -- 40 -- Redhouse : from the south-west -- 6
Aberlady -- 41 -- Doorway : Redhouse -- 7
Aberlady -- 42 -- Doorway : Pencaitland Church -- 7
Aberlady -- 43 -- Doorway : Fountainhall -- 7
Aberlady -- 44 -- Doorway : Whittinghame -- 7
Athelstaneford -- 45 -- St. John's Chapel -- 8
Athelstaneford -- 46 -- Garleton Castle : plan -- 8
Athelstaneford -- 47 -- The Chesters, Drem : plan -- 9
Athelstaneford -- 48 -- The Chesters, Drem : Sections -- 10
Bolton -- 49 -- Pilmuir House -- 11
Haddington -- 50 -- Lennoxlove -- 11
Bolton -- 51 -- Pilmuir House : plans -- 12
Dirleton -- 52 -- Parish Church, Gullane : plan -- 14
Dirleton -- 53 -- Chancel Arch, Parish Church, Gullane -- 14
Dirleton -- 54 -- Saltcoats Castle -- 14
Dirleton -- 55 -- Dirleton Castle -- 16
Dirleton -- 56 -- Dirleton Castle : sections -- 17
Dirleton -- 57 -- Dirleton Castle : from the south-west -- 18
Dirleton -- 58 -- Dirleton Castle : Entrance -- 19
Dirleton -- 59 -- Dirleton Castle : East Cellars -- 20
Dirleton -- 60 -- Dirleton Castle : Buffet -- 20
Dirleton -- 61 -- Saltcoats Castle : plan -- 22
Dunbar -- 62 -- Sketch of Dunbar Castle from Miller's Dunbar (1830) -- 26
Dunbar -- 63 -- Town House, Dunbar -- 28
Dunbar -- 64 -- Tower of Carmelite Church as Dovecot, Dunbar -- 29
Garvald and Bara -- 65 -- Nunraw : plan -- 30
Garvald and Bara -- 66 -- Painted Ceiling, Nunraw -- 31
Garvald and Bara -- 67 -- Greencastle : plan -- 32
Garvald and Bara -- 68 -- Fort, Kingside Rig : plan -- 33
Garvald and Bara -- 69 -- Blackcastle, Newlands : plan -- 34
Garvald and Bara -- 70 -- Fort, Garvald Mains : plan -- 35
Garvald and Bara -- 71 -- Whitecastle : plan -- 35
Garvald and Bara -- 72 -- Whitecastle : Section -- 35
Haddington -- 73 -- Parish Church Haddington, from north-west -- 38
Haddington -- 74 -- Parish Church Haddington : plan -- 39
Haddington -- 75 -- Parish Church Haddington : Choir -- 40
Haddington -- 76 -- Parish Church Haddington : Clearstorey window, choir -- 40
Haddington -- 77 -- Parish Church Haddington : West door -- 40
Haddington -- 78 -- St. Martin's Church : plan -- 43
Haddington -- 79 -- St. Martin's Church : Chancel Arch -- 43
Yester -- 80 -- Goblin Ha', Yester Castle -- 43
Haddington -- 81 -- Lennoxlove or Lethington : plans -- 44
Haddington -- 82 -- Sundial : Lennoxlove -- 46
Whittinghame -- 83 -- Sundial : Ruchlaw -- 46
Oldhamstocks -- 84 -- Sundial : Dunglass -- 46
-- viii |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
PARISH -- FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE IN INVENTORY
Haddington -- 85 -- Barnes Castle : plan -- 47
Haddington -- 86 -- "Bothwell Castle" in 1913 -- 47
Haddington -- 87 -- "Bothwell Castle" : c. 1897 -- 47
Haddington -- 88 -- Kaeheughs : plan -- 48
Humbie -- 89 -- Bridges : Humbie Mill -- 49
Prestonkirk -- 90 -- Bridges : East Linton -- 49
Haddington -- 91 -- Bridges : Abbey Bridge -- 49
Haddington -- 92 -- Bridges : Nungate -- 49
Humbie -- 93 -- Keith Church : plan -- 50
Humbie -- 94 -- Stobshiel : plan -- 52
Innerwick -- 95 -- Innerwick Castle : plan -- 53
Innerwick -- 96 -- Fort No. 2 Blackcastle Hill : plan -- 55
North Berwick -- 97 -- Stone Moulds from North Berwick -- 58
North Berwick -- 98 -- Cistercian Convent or Nunnery, N. Berwick -- 58
Prestonkirk -- 99 -- Hailes Castle from the east -- 58
North Berwick -- 100 -- St. Baldred's Chapel, The Bass : plan -- 60
North Berwick -- 101 -- Tantallon Castle and the Bass -- 61
North Berwick -- 102 -- Tantallon Castle : plans -- 62
North Berwick -- 103 -- Tantallon Castle : and Outworks -- 63
North Berwick -- 104 -- Tantallon Castle : Front -- 63
North Berwick -- 105 -- Tantallon Castle : Interior -- 63
North Berwick -- 106 -- Tantallon Castle : Pit -- 64
North Berwick -- 107 -- Fenton Tower : plan -- 67
North Berwick -- 108 -- The Bass Castle : plan -- 69
North Berwick -- 109 -- Plan and View of the Bass c. 1700 -- 70
North Berwick -- 110 -- The Bass -- 70
Oldhamstocks -- 111 -- Oldhamstocks Church : plan -- 74
Oldhamstocks -- 112 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church, Priests' Door -- 75
Oldhamstocks -- 113 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church : Crossing looking East -- 75
Oldhamstocks -- 114 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church : From north-east -- 75
Oldhamstocks -- 115 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church : plan etc. -- 76
Oldhamstocks -- 116 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church : Sedilia -- 77
Oldhamstocks -- 117 -- Dunglass Collegiate Church : Choir -- 77
Oldhamstocks -- 118 -- Earthwork, Dunglass : plan -- 79
Ormiston -- 119 -- Brass, St. Giles Church, Ormiston -- 80
Ormiston -- 120 -- Ormiston : plan -- 81
Pencaitland -- 121 -- Parish Church, Pencaitland, North Aisle -- 82
Pencaitland -- 122 -- Parish Church, Pencaitland : Looking west -- 82
Pencaitland -- 123 -- Parish Church, Pencaitland : plan -- 82
Pencaitland -- 124 -- Winton House -- 84
Prestonpans -- 125 -- Stair Tower, Old Hamilton House -- 84
Pencaitland -- 126 -- Winton House : plan -- 84
Pencaitland -- 127 -- Fountainhall from the south-west -- 86
Pencaitland -- 128 -- Fountainhall : Entrance -- 87
Pencaitland -- 129 -- Fountainhall : plans -- 87
Pencaitland -- 130 -- Fountainhall : section -- 87
Pencaitland -- 131 -- Fountainhall : Door-snecks -- 88
Pencaitland -- 132 -- Woodhall : plan -- 89
Prestonkirk -- 133 -- Hailes Castle : plan -- 92
Prestonkirk -- 134 -- Pit, Hailes Castle -- 93
-- ix |
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Figure 192 should read as 182. |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH -- FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE IN INVENTORY
Prestonkirk -- 135 -- Traprain Law from north -- 94
Prestonkirk -- 136 -- Traprain Law : Section of walling -- 94
Prestonkirk -- 137 -- Traprain Law : plan -- 95
Prestonkirk -- 138 -- Traprain Law : Socketed axes -- 96
Prestonkirk -- 139 -- Traprain Law : Dragonesque fibulæ &c. -- 96
Prestonkirk -- 140 -- Traprain Law : Silver and Bronze objects -- 97
Prestonkirk -- 141 -- Traprain Law : Iron spearheads -- 98
Prestonkirk -- 142 -- Traprain Law : Iron tools -- 98
Prestonkirk -- 143 -- Traprain Law : Sickles &c. of iron -- 99
Prestonkirk -- 144 -- Traprain Law : Silver objects as found -- 98
Prestonkirk -- 145 -- Traprain Law : Fibulæ -- 98
Prestonkirk -- 146 -- Traprain Law : Silver and Gilt Flagon -- 99
Prestonkirk -- 147 -- Traprain Law : Silver and Gilt Flagon : other side -- 99
Prestonkirk -- 148 -- Traprain Law : Triangular Bowl restored -- 99
Prestonkirk -- 149 -- Traprain Law : Bowl as discovered -- 99
Prestonpans -- 150 -- Preston Tower -- 100
Prestonpans -- 151 -- Preston Tower : plans -- 101
Prestonpans -- 152 -- Preston House : plans -- 103
Prestonpans -- 153 -- Northfield -- 104
Prestonpans -- 154 -- Northfield : plan -- 104
Saltoun -- 155 -- Herdmanston Chapel : plan -- 106
Saltoun -- 156 -- Herdmanston House : plan -- 107
Spott -- 157 -- Circle, Zadlee -- 110
Stenton -- 158 -- Stenton Church : plan -- 111
Stenton -- 159 -- Structures, Snailscleugh -- 112
Tranent -- 160 -- Collegiate Church, Seton, from south -- 115
Tranent -- 161 -- Collegiate Church, Seton : plan -- 115
Tranent -- 162 -- Collegiate Church, Seton : Choir vault -- 116
Tranent -- 163 -- Collegiate Church, Seton : South wall of choir -- 116
Tranent -- 164 -- Elphinstone Tower : plans -- 120
Tranent -- 165 -- Falside -- 123
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 166 -- Whitekirk before 1914 -- 125
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 167 -- Whitekirk : plan -- 125
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 168 -- Whitekirk : Front of gallery -- 126
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 169 -- Tynninghame Church, arch of apse -- 129
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 170 -- Tynninghame Church : plan -- 129
Whitekirk and Tynninghame -- 171 -- Tithebarn, Whitekirk : plans -- 131
Whittinghame -- 172 -- Whittinghame Castle : plans -- 132
Whittinghame -- 173 -- Plasterwork, Whittinghame -- 133
Haddington -- 174 -- Plasterwork : Lennoxlove -- 133
Pencaitland -- 175 -- Plasterwork : Winton -- 133
Pencaitland -- 176 -- Plasterwork : Winton -- 133
Whittinghame -- 177 -- Stoneypath Tower : plan -- 133
Whittinghame -- 178 -- Fort, Friar's Nose -- 136
Whittinghame -- 179 -- Fort, Friar's Nose : Sections -- 136
Whittinghame -- 180 -- Stone Setting, Mayshiel -- 140
Whittinghame -- 181 -- The Nine Stones -- 141
Whittinghame -- 192 -- Circle, Kingside Hill -- 141
-- x |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
PARISH -- FIGURE -- NAME -- PAGE IN INVENTORY
Yester -- 183 -- Yester Castle : plan -- 145
Yester -- 184 -- Newton Hall : plan -- 148
Yester -- 185 -- Fort, Harelaw -- 149
Yester -- 186 -- The Castles, Long Newton -- 150
Yester -- 187 -- The Castles, Long Newton : Section -- 151
Yester -- 188 -- Fort, The Hopes -- 152
Yester -- 189 -- Fort Kidlaw -- 154
Yester -- 190 -- Fort Kidlaw : Section -- 154
N.B. "The Hopes" Fort, fig. 188, should be in the parish of Garvald and Bara.
-- xi |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE
The following abbreviations are used in the citation of the undermentioned works :
Acta Parl. -- Acta Parliamentorum Scotiae (Record Commission).
Archaeol. Scot. -- Archaeologica Scotica or Transactions of the Society of Anti-
quaries of Scotland.
Cal. Docts. or Bain's Cal. -- Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland. H.M. General
Register House, Edinburgh.
Cal. St. Pap. For. -- Calendar of State Papers, Foreign Series (Record Office).
Ed. Reg. Test. -- Edinburgh Register of Testiments (Scottish Record Society).
Geo. Colls. -- Macfarlane's Geographical Collections, Scottish History Society,
1906-8.
Ham. MSS. -- MSS. of Duke of Hamilton in Historical Manuscripts Commission,
Report XI., Appendix 6.
Ham. Pap. -- Hamilton Papers, H.M. General Register House, Edinburgh.
Home MSS. -- MSS. of Earl of Home in Historical Manuscripts Commission,
Report XII., Appendix 8.
Inquis. Spec. -- Inquisitiones Speciales in Inquisitionum in Publicis Archivis
Scotiae Abbrevatio.
Johnstone MSS. -- MSS. of J. J. Hope Johnstone, Esq., of Annandale in Historical
Manuscripts Commission, Report XV., Appendix 9.
Milne Home MSS. -- MSS. of Col. David Milne Home of Wedderburn, Historical
Manuscripts Commission, 1902.
Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. -- Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
R.M.S. or Reg.Mag.Sig. -- Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum, Register of the Great
Seal of Scotland.
Reg. P.C. -- Register of the Privy Council of Scotland.
Scot. Pap. -- Calendar of State Papers Relating to Scotland. H.M. General
Register House, Edinburgh.
Scotichron. -- Scotichronicon (Fordun and Bower) ed. Goodall, 2 vols.
Edinburgh 1759.
Theiner's Vet. Mon. -- Theiner's (Augustus) Vetera Monumenta Hibernorum et Scotorum
(1216-1547), Romae 1864.
-- xii |
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INTRODUCTION
TO
INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION.
I.
EARLY HISTORY.
The counties of East, Mid, and West Lothian, otherwise known as
Haddington, Edinburgh and Linlithgow, occupy the southern shore of the
Firth of Forth as far as the river Avon, which separates the last named from
Stirlingshire. The original province of Lothian, however, took in a greater
area. Symeon of Durham, writing of an episode of 1125 and therefore con-
temporary with himself, refers to the Tweed as separating Northumbria and
Lothian (Loidam). A confirmation of Coldingham charters by David I. in
1126 specified a number of Berwickshire lands which are said to be in Lothian
(in Lodoneio). "Berwic in Lodoneis" appears in an English document in-
ferentially dated as of 1165-6. ¹ The name is thus established for the twelfth
century as far as the Tweed. When the district was acquired by the kingdom
of Scotia early in the previous century, it is recorded that the adversaries of
the Scots were from the region between the Tweed and the Tees (see p. xvii)
while Malcolm II. did not push his conquest beyond the former river, all
which again suggests that Lothian proper did not at that time reach farther
south than the Tweed.
This occasion (1018) gives the first occurrence of the name, which has not
yet been satisfactorily explained. ² An English historian early in the thirteenth
century, writing of events under 975 specifies "the whole land which in the
tongue of the country (patria lingua) is called Lothian (Laudian cf. p. xviii). ³
The patria in question is Lothian itself (cf. p. xxvii), and the specification of
that name in these terms suggests that it was local and that the people there
in general had a language other than that prevalent in Northumbria, and
therefore Celtic. ⁴
1 Eng. Hist. Rev. April 1913, p. 244.
2 See Note p. xviii.
3 Roger de Wendover (d. 1237) Chronica, Eng. Hist. Soc. vol. i., p. 416 ; cf. Matthew Paris
Chron. Maj. i., p. 468.
4 To the Gaelic writers the district was known as Saxonia, which probably included however
the parts south of the Tweed, cf. p. xvii. Hwætberht, English abbot of Wearmouth, in writing
to Pope Gregory II. speaks of himself as doing so de Saxonia. Bede's Hist. Abb. cap. 19.
-- xiii |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
In Ptolemy's map of the second century the coastal land from the Forth
to south of the Tweed, apparently as far as the Tees, is allotted to the people
called Otadini, a name which, as answering to the later Gaelic Fotudan, ¹ and to
the Welsh Guotodin or modern Welsh Gododdin should probably be written
Votadini. But there is no evidence of Roman operations east of the road
which crossed Soutra Hill from Newstead Camp at Melrose to Inveresk, nor
have any traces of Roman occupation been found in East Lothian. The Roman
relics from Traprain (No. 148) point only to contacts and trade.
To the Angles of the English invasions the same district was known as
Bernicia or the country of the Bernicians (Beornice, Bærnice) or at least as
part of that somewhat indefinite region. The allusion, cited below, to "nations"
of Bernicians further implies several tribes or peoples as covered by that name,
of whom the Votadini may have been only one. Bernicia was based upon the
fortress of Bamborough, while south of it, covering modern Yorkshire, was
Deira. Ida is said to have established himself at Bamborough in 547 and
Nennius ² gives him as the first king of Bernicia. In what sense he was so it
is hard to say. There is an entire lack of archæological evidence for any
Anglian settlement in Bernicia during the sixth century. At that time the
Angles were still heathen. Christianity did not enter Northumbria till 625,
and Edwin (616-633) was the first Northumbrian Christian king. Before King
Oswald set up his wooden cross at Heavenfield in 635 there was neither
church, altar nor any symbol of the Christian faith "among all the nations
of the Bernicians". ³ Some years must be allowed for the new faith to modify
pagan practice. There was even a period of lapse. Evidence of settlement
by Saxons or Angles in other parts of England begins quite soon after the
dates allotted to the different invasions. This evidence is drawn from the
numerous cemeteries of non-Christian character. In Yorkshire, i.e., the part
known as Deira, such are frequently found as secondary interments in Bronze
Age barrows, and they survive in good number along the line of the rivers
to the east. After the adoption of Christian beliefs burial took place in
churchyard enclosures. In Bernicia, however, with the exception of a cemetery
at Darlington on the Tees, such evidence is totally lacking, and it can be
said that no Anglian remains of the pagan period have so far been found
north of the Tweed. ⁴ It may be inferred that, up to the time when North-
umbria became Christian, in the first third of the seventh century, no per-
manent settlement of Angles had been made between the Tweed and the
Forth. ⁵
This, of course, does not exclude the possibility of raids or temporary
incursions. The composite work known under the name of Nennius, of which
1 Go rinn fhiadhnach Fotudain : "As far as the conspicuous promontory of Fotudan" Duan
Albanach in Chr. Picts & Scots p. 57.
2 Hist. Brit.
3 Bede III., ii.
4 One Anglo-Saxon urn in the National Museum of Antiquities is reported to have come
from Aberdeenshire, but its origin is really doubtful. Beads found in a grave at Dalmeny Park
may have been Anglian but are not necessarily such, while an isolated find of similar beads
was made in a broch in Skye. Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. 1914-5 p. 332 ff. These uncertain strays
only emphasise the general blank.
5 Cf. The Archæology of the Anglo Saxon Settlements by E. Thurlow Leeds, chap. iv. "The
idea of an effective occupation of any part of Scotland in Early Anglo-Saxon times must be
at once jettisoned." p. 71.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
the earliest portion is of the end of the seventh century, says that Saxons
occupied many regions " beyond the Frisian sea " (trans or ultra Mare Fresicum
or Frenessicum) as far as the borders of the Picts (usque ad confinia or con-
finium Pictorum) ; and certain versions, obviously of Northumbrian origin,
add after " Frisian Sea " the explanation " which is between us and the Scots,"
indicating the Firth of Forth or " Scots Water." In the twelfth century Vita
Kentigerni the coast near Culross is referred to as the " Frisian Shore "
(Fresicum litus), which is probably an echo from the amplified Nennius. Next
a thirteenth century continuation of the A. S. Chronicle repeats the identi-
fication of the " Frisian Sea " with the " Scottish Sea " or Firth of Forth,
explaining that Frisians and Danes used to land there to co-operate with Picts
and Scots in ravaging Northumbria. This interpretation may not be far out.
However, Procopius the sixth century historian divides Britain between
Britons, Angles and Phrissones, where the last group must stand for the
people better known as Saxons. These names must not be taken too strictly.
All that may be in question here is something analagous to the " Saxon
shore " of south-eastern England, a district vexed from time to time by
descents of Saxons (cf. Art. No. 148 p. 99), with whom Frisians proper were
commonly intermingled. But the Frisians were the great naval and commercial
power of the West during the seventh and eighth centuries, before they were
finally crushed by Charlemagne, and the " Frisian Sea " may be an echo of
that time. The statement in Nennius is probably a late insertion and sub-
equent writers may have drawn upon this.
With respect to such early occupation the scanty historic evidence points
to the same conclusion as the archæology. Oswald of the Bernician or Bam-
borough family, who became King of Northumbria in 634, is said to have
united by his skilful rule the provinces of the Deiri and the Bernicians, ¹
"nations," which we learn from another source, were in 635 still distinct
" in people and customs." ² This would seem to imply a marked predominance
in Bernicia of the old Celtic or British element. Bernicia, however, appears
to have been a somewhat elastic term, covering an undefined portion of the
Scottish Lowlands in general. ³
From this date, 635, for the next fifty years, Bernicia was certainly an
integral part of the Northumbrian kingdom. The church was another unifying
influence, and the great ecclesiastical figure of the time is Cuthbert, a native
of Lothian, who, in his evangelising tours, visited " villages which were re-
motely situated among steep and rugged hills, places others feared to
visit." ⁴ In this description we may recognise the fortified hill villages or
"hill forts," of which the remains still occupy sites in the hills of Lothian,
as The Hopes (Art. No. 257) and others in the Lammermuirs. These high-
lying enclosures stood above the forest and marsh then occupying most of the
level lands and gave clear stretches of pasture, while the flocks could also
be protected from the carnivorous creatures of the woods. From Melrose,
1 Eccl. Hist. Bede III. cap I.
2 Miscellanea Biographica, Surtees Socy. p. 7.
3 Bede even says of Whithorn in Wigtownshire : " Qui locus, ad provinciam Berniciorum
pertinens, vulgo vocatur Ad Candidam Casam, " Which place, pertaining to the province of the
Bernicians, is commonly known as White House." Hist Eccl. III., 4.
4 Bede, Vita S. Cudbercti ix.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Cuthbert went as bishop to Lindisfarne. In his time occurred the shattering
defeat of the Northumbrians by the Picts in 685 at Nechtansmere.
To what extent Northumbria was restricted in territory as the result of
the defeat is not quite clear. According to Bede a great part of the Britons
freed themselves from Anglian rule. Trumwin, a Northumbrian bishop for the
Picts, withdrew with his followers from the monastery at Abercorn, which was
in the "country of the English," that is Bernicia ; the Firth of Forth separ-
ating the lands of the English and the Picts. Late writers are rather more
definite but may reflect the conditions of their own time rather than continue
traditional accounts. One, of the early twelfth century, says that the Angles
" curtailed their territories from the north" ¹ ; another, of the middle of the four-
teenth century, affirms that the part of Bernicia between the Tweed and the
Firth of Forth, that is the district known later as Lothian, was wholly taken
from the Angles. ² Certainly in the course of the fifty years following Dunni-
chen the Picts were aggressive from time to time towards Northumbria,
making Lothian a channel of conflict, as in the battle of 711 " in the plain
of Manau ³ " between the Avon and the Carron. ⁴ But this eighth century saw
the gradual decline of Northumbrian power, largely owing to internal dissension.
The territorial possessions and power of the Church, too, had increased and
" the land of St. Cuthbert " or bishopric of Lindisfarne tended to overshadow
the political divisions. Beyond Tweed it was claimed to embrace all between
the Adder and the Leader as well as the land belonging to the Monastery
of St. Baldred (Sancti Balthere) at Tynninghame, which land stretched from
Lammermuir (Lombormore) to Eskmouth, that is, embraced the whole of what
is now East Lothian. ⁵
It was on a politically and socially weakened Northumbria that there
fell the assaults of ravaging Danes towards the close of the eighth century.
After the capture of York by Healfdene and his Danes in 867, a Danish rule
was based on that city as the Kingdom of York. But of this kingdom
Bernicia does not seem to have formed a recognised part. The Danes set up
a vassal king reigning over the Northumbrians beyond the (English) Tyne. ⁶
Within a few years the people there expelled him and substituted a king of
their own. There is no evidence that the Danes or Norse made settlement
in Lothian ; place-names embodying Norse elements are very few even in
County Durham, and such as occur in the Lothians are probably Anglo-
Scandinavian of a later date ; the absence of characteristic Norse geographical
terms e.g., beck, gill, breck, is much more significant. ⁷
On the other hand, Lothian becomes a goal for the aggressive activities
of the Scots of Dalriada, who had greatly increased their power by the
acquisition of Pictland c. 844. Kenneth mac Alpine, the first king of the
1 William Malmesbury, Gesta Regum I. p. 58.
2 John of Tynemouth in Raine's Historians of the Church of York (R. S.) I., p. 593.
3 In Campo Manand, Annals of Tighernach.
4 Hæfe and Cære A. S. Chron. (E).
5 Hist. S. Cudb. II., § 4.
6 Symeon of Durham, Hist Regum. § 92 ; Hist. Dunm. Eccl. cap. VI.
7 Moorfoot in the parish of Temple, Midlothian, which has given its name to the Moorfoot
Hills, embodies the Norse thwait. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries it is Morthuweit,
Morthwayt, Morffet, &c. In Blæu's Atlas (Pont's map) it is Morfoet, whence the modern form.
Personal names of Norse origin are preserved in Ormiston, Stenton (XVI. century Steinston),
Thornton &c.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
united kingdoms, later known as Alba, is declared to have invaded " Saxonia "
six times, to have burned Dunbar and occupied Melrose. In the reign of
Guthred at York (883-894), according to Symeon of Durham, the Scots
crossed the Tweed and wasted the land of St. Cuthbert, plundering the
monastery of Lindisfarne. A late Scottish chronicle affirms that King Cirig,
about this time, subjugated Bernicia. In the course of the reign of Indulph
over Alba (954-962) Edinburgh was abandoned (oppidum Eden vacuatum est)
and left to the Scots. ¹ This Scottish pressure on " Saxonia " was kept up
during the reign of Kenneth II. (971-995). About 1006 Malcolm II. of Alba
ravaged the province of the Northumbrians and besieged Durham, when the
Scots suffered a severe defeat at the hands of Uhtred, son of the aged Waltheof,
Earl of Northumbria under the supremacy of Wessex. Uhtred's force was
composed of Northumbrians and Yorkshiremen, and the heads of the slain
Scots, elegant with their plaited locks of hair (elegantiora crinibus perplexis)
were fixed round the walls of Durham. ² But when the power of Wessex had
been broken by the new Danish invasion, and Canute had made himself king
of all England in 1016, the kingdom of Alba renewed its attacks. In 1018,
an " infinite multitude of Scots," including also Britons from the kingdom of
Strathclyde, invaded Northumbria, and at Carham on Tweed "almost the
whole people between Tweed and Tees, with their leaders perished" in battle.
This success sealed the Scottish conquest of ancient Lothian after a century
and a half of effort to this end, and thenceforward Lothian was an integral
part of Scotland or rather one of the greater political divisions subject to the
King of Scots. Fordun can thus speak of William the Lion in the thirteenth
century going from Scotia, that is properly the district beyond the Forth or
" Scots water," into Lothian.
THE CONSTABULARY. - From at least the early fourteenth to the close of
the seventeenth century, Haddington was known as a constabulary, as also was
Linlithgow, both jurisdictions being subordinate to the sheriffdom of Edinburgh.
The " Hadintunschira " references of twelfth century charters are to the parish,
as is clear from the contexts. In the Ragman Roll the references are to the
" counte de Hadington," the " counte de Linliscu " and the " counte de
Edneburk." In 1311-12 we have the sheriffdom (vicecomitatus) of Haddington
and of Edinburgh with the comitatus of Linlithgow ; and in the English
administrative accounts of 1335-6 the " constabularies " of Haddington and
Linlithgow are accounted for by the sheriff (vicecomes) of Edinburgh, which is
styled a comitatus. In the following year Edinburgh is styled both a vice-
comitatus and a constabularia. Thereafter the official designations are to the
constabularies of Haddington and Linlithgow, each allotted to a depute of the
Sheriff-principal of Edinburgh ; though in 1468 an Act of Parliament specifies
the three as sheriffdoms. In 1647 we have reference by the Estates to the
election of the Sheriff-principal of the Sheriffdom of East Lothian ; but this
is an exceptional case. In 1682 Lord Fountainhall, in his Historical Notices,
writes of the " shire of East Lothian " and its sheriff-depute, and " West
Lothian alias Lithgow-shire " is referred to in similar terms. Constabulary
appears then to signify the same relationship or standing as that of sheriffdom-
1 Chr. Picts and Scots.
2 De Obess. Dunelmi in Symeon of Durham vol. I., p. 215 (R.S.) ; Annals of Ulster.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
depute, where the depute is not, as normally, of the shire as a whole but is
assigned to a definite part of it. Soon after the Revolution, East Lothian
or Haddington finally became an independent sheriffdom.
The name Lothian, at first confined to the district treated like Galloway
as a unit including what Lord Fountainhall called the " 3 Lothians," seems
to have begun differentiation in such a phrase as the " est partis of Lodiane "
(1473) and so to have progressed to East and West Lothian in 1523 and
subsequently.
NOTE ON " LOTHIAN."
The forms Lođene, Laudian, Lodoneis should be taken with the XII-XIII century forms
for Mount Lothian, Muntlaudewen, Mountlouthyen, Montlounes in the Reg. de Neubotle, the last
linking up with Loenois, the kingdom of Loth in Le Roman de Brut, both being Anglo-French
forms developed by the normal extrusion of " th " between vowels and the application of the
Romance suffix derived from the Latin ensis (cf. Lodonensem and Lodonesium in Mat. Par. II.
pp. 214, 289). Thus we arrive at the Arthurian Lyonesse.* In certain old Welsh texts Dinas
Eidyn i.e., Edinburgh is mentioned as the abode of Lleuddun Lwyddog, who is Leudonus grand-
father of Kentigern in the Vita, and from whom, it is claimed, the district got the name
Lleudduniawn (the suffix anus becoming Welsh awn), which was Gaelicised and shortened into
Lothian. (Y Cymmrodor, vol. XI p. 51 ; cf. Skene's Celtic Scotland II. p. 186 ; cf. Haddington
and " Hathingtoun," Hedderwick and " Hatherwyk "). But both Lyons in France and Leyden
in Holland were originally Lugudunum or Lleudin i.e. Din Lleu, where Lug or Lleu is the Celtic
deity. Moreover Loudoun Hill in Ayrshire was known in the seventeenth century also as Lothian
Hill (Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. XLV, p. 236), and the common origin can scarcely have been the
name of a local king at Edinburgh.
*Cf. " County of Loweneys " (1335) in Cal. Docts. iii, p. 216.
II.
TERRITORIAL FAMILIES OF EAST LOTHIAN.
The incorporation of Lothian with the Scottish kingdom brought with it
a settlement of some parts of the territory by a Gælic speaking population, if
indeed such a process had not already been at work. In 1069 when the
bishop and leading men were hurrying away the body of St. Cuthbert from
Durham to a safe place in the island of Lindisfarne, they were much impeded
and maltreated by a powerful (praepotens) person beyond the Tyne named
Gillomichael, evidently Gillemichael, a Gælic magnate on the old border of
Bernicia. ¹ Early in the twelfth century another very prominent figure was
Macbead or Macbeth of Liberton, near Edinburgh, with whom may be collated
Macbeth (" Malbet ") of Traquair, in eastern Peeblesshire, whose son Simon
was Sheriff of that place under King William. ² Other such Gælic person-
ages are suggested by " fossil " names like Gillecamestone or Gillesalmestun, the
original designation of the land granted for the foundation of the Cistercian
nunnery at North Berwick (No. 104) ; Malcolmyston south of Herdmanston ³
and Gilcristoun in the barony of Saltoun ⁴ : while of current place-names of
Gælic origin examples are Kilspindie, " church of St. Pensandus " a follower
of the 7th century St. Boniface, a dedication of the same origin as in Kil-
spindie, Perthshire, Ballencrieff (1337 " Balnecrefe "), Balgone (1337 " Balnegon "
1 Simeon of Durham, Hist. Dun. Eccl. Lib. iii., cap. xvi. Gille was being substituted for
maol as a prefix to saints' names in the late tenth and the eleventh century.
2 See charters of Holyrood, Newbattle, &c.
3 Reg. Mag. Sig. i., No. 798.
4 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. 1505, No. 2878.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Baile na ghobhan " Smith-town "), Garvald (garbh-allt " rough stream "),
Drem or ' Drym' ¹ (druim, " ridge "), Castle Tarbet on Fidra and others.
This diffusion of tenth and eleventh century Gælic names overlies the early
English ham and ton names, as these did the older British ones. The com-
bination of personal names like Gillecalum or Malcolm in the English possessive
case with the English ending ' ton ' shows the mixture of population - Gælic
lords with English-speaking tenantry. This, however, does not apply to the
case of Macbeth of Liberton's contemporary Thor of " Travernent " or Tranent,
these two being found together as witnesses of charters between 1127 and
1144. ² Thor's steward (dapifer), also a witness, bore the obvious Gælic name
" Gilandreas."
Other personages who are found to act as witnesses at the same period
as Macbeth and Thor show a further infusion among the landholders of Lothian,
these being Normans introduced by King David himself. William de Graham
was probably of Dalkeith, but Hugh de Moreville and William de Lindesay
were East Lothian magnates.
The most important of this new band of immigrants from the south was
Gospatrick, referred to above, who, after being stripped of his earldom of
Northumberland by William, settled in southern Scotland in 1072, receiving
from Malcolm Canmore Dunbar with the lands adjacent in Lothian. ³ Under
the old significance of Lothian these included lands in the Merse of Berwick-
shire. Gospatrick ⁴ was the founder of the long line of Earls of Dunbar, later
also Earls of March, ⁵ which persisted till early in the fifteenth century, when
the second George, 11th Earl of Dunbar and 4th of March, was in January
1435 forfeited by James I. " for the fault of his father," ⁶ and with him this
line of earls ceased. The family appears to have continued on a small estate
in Fife till the reign of Queen Mary, when the last male died without issue.
The infusion of Normans proper into Lothian and Scotland generally was
due mainly to David I. and his immediate successors Malcolm IV. and William
the Lion. Thus of the names already mentioned Walter de ' Lyndeseia ' or
Lindsay is the first known here, being one of the witnesses to the foundation
charter of the Abbey of Selkirk in 1120 as well as to the Inquisitio (Glasgow)
for King David in 1124. In the time of William the Lion there was a David
Lindsay of Luffness, ⁷ but before 1296 Luffness was held of Edward of England
by Robert de Pinkney, while the castle, with lands in Ballencrieff, was set by
him to John de Bickerton (" Biggerton "). Henry de " Pynkeneye " was himself
in occupation of the castle between 1300 and 1307, having had it from Edward
1 Cal. Docts iii., p. 339 &c.
2 In the charter by David I. c. 1141 granting Clerkington (" Clerchtune ") to the church of
St. Mary at Haddington appear, among others, William de Graham, Osbert prior of Edinburgh,
Macbeth (" Malbet ") of Liberton, " Gillandris (Gille of Andrew) filius Oggu " and " Gille (andris)
filius Mercheh " &c. In " filius Oggu " we have a mixing of peoples just as we have in ' Horm
(Orm) fil(ius) Malcolm ' among the witnesses of a charter of the same reign. Scandinavian
names were to be found among even purely English families. Filius=Mac.
3 In Lodoneis. Sym. Dur. Hist. Reg. § 159.
4 " Servant of Patrick." Welsh gwas - servant or devotee - Gælic gille.
5 Hemingburgh s.a. 1296 says the Earl of Dunbar was commonly (vulgariter) known as the
Earl of March.
6 Scotich. Lib. xvi., cap. xxiv ; cf. p. xxvii.
7 Reg. de Neubotle No. 210.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
I. ¹ He was probably acting as constable in the English interest, the Bicker-
tons apparently being on the national side, since in 1335 we find the land of
Luffness in the hands of Edward III. by the forfeiture of John de 'Bikirtoun' ²
By David II. the lands of the late Walter Bickerton in the barony of
Luffness (' Luffenok ') were granted proportionately to his three daughters.
But in 1451 there was a Robert Bickerton in Luffness, who began the trans-
ference of the property to the Hepburns (see Art. No. 3).
Better known and of longer connection is the branch of the Lindsays
settled at Byres, who also had the barony of Drem. In 1358 David II.
confirmed a grant which the late Sir James de Lindsay had made of the
lands of " Byris " to Alexander de Lindsay, who was the son of Sir David
Lindsay of Crawford. Byres remained with Lindsays till the early seventeenth
century, when it was sold to Sir Thomas Hamilton, first Earl of Haddington.
For a short space there were Lindsays also in Ormiston, which gave its name to the
successors of the original Orm, who cannot be identified, and the widow of
" Aleyne de Ormestone " in the county of Edinburgh is on Ragman Roll in
1296. But by the fourteenth century Ormiston was in the possession of
Lindsays and Alexander de Lindsay, lord of Ormiston, conferred it with
" Templishall " (Cf. No. 137) and " Pastoun " and " Murhous " (No. 132)
upon his daughter " Johanetta " on her marriage with John Cockburn and so
established the Cockburns of Ormistoun. This grant was confirmed in 1369.
A feature of early mediæval landownership in East Lothian is the number
of state offices held by leading nobles there. Hugh de Moreville from North-
amptonshire was a close friend of David I. and a witness to a great number
[Marginal note] De Moreville
of his charters. In the reign of William the Lion we have Richard de More-
ville, Constable, and this office was hereditary in the family. Hugh de More-
ville held the manor of Salton, the lordship of Lauderdale and other estates. ³
Richard granted the lands of Herdmanston to Henry de St. Clair, ⁴ and after
the War of Independence, Herdmanston was held by the St. Clairs from the
Crown. John de St. Clair, lord of " Herdmanstone " was a witness to a
charter by Malcolm of Fawside confirmed in 1367. The male line of the
Lothian de Morevilles failed in the third generation, and the office and lands
passed by marriage to the Lords of Galloway, and thence again to a de
Quincey, which family also possessed estates in the western part of East Lothian.
Robert de Quincey, too, came from Northamptonshire, receiving the barony
of Tranent from William the Lion, and holding the office of Justiciary. ⁵
But when Roger died in 1264 he left only daughters, whose husbands shared the
de Quincey lands and lost them by supporting the English claims on Scotland.
They were supplanted in East Lothian by Setons. The first of this name on
record is an Alexander Seton, who witnessed a charter of King David I. about
1150. It was a later Alexander de Seton who got from Robert I., his uncle,
the part of the barony of Tranent which belonged to Alan la Zouch and in
1322 the part which had belonged to Sir William de Ferrers with Fawside,
these being two of the husbands of the de Quincey heiresses. The same Seton
also received Niddrie, which had pertained to Zouch, Elphinstone on its
1 Cal. Docts. ii. No. 857 and Nos. 1332, 1968.
2 Ibid. iii. No. 218 and p. 338.
3 Liber de Dryburgh, Nos. 6, 7, etc.
4 Dipl. Scot. No. 75.
5 Reg. de Passelet, p. 76.
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 2. - The Earl of Dunbar (No. 39).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 3. - The Earl of Perth (No. 191).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 4. - The Earl of Lauderdale (No. 68).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 5. - In Collegiate Church, Seton (No. 191).
MURAL MONUMENTS.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
forfeiture by Peter Libaud and Barns, while David II. gave a charter of Barns
and Winton to John de Seton. This family ultimately (1600) blossomed into
Earls of Winton, but suffered a total deprivation by the forfeiture of George,
fifth Earl, for his share in the Fifteen.
To the lands of Keith-Marshall (" Keith-Mariscallus ") was attached the
office of Marshall or Mareschal. Originally Keith was in two parts, one
granted in the time of David I. to Hervey Fitz-Warin, from whom it was
known as Keith-Hervey but better as Keith-Marshall, ¹ after Hervey had been
endowed with that office. The other part of Keith fell to Simon Fraser and
was known as Hundeby-Keith or Keith-Hundeby or from its possessor as
Keith-Symon. Philip de Keith, however, grandson of Hervey, is said to have
married the grand-daughter and heiress of Fraser and united the two domains.
After the War of Independence, Robert I., in 1318, granted afresh to Sir
Robert de Keith the lands of Keith-Marshall with the office of Marshall
pertaining to the same land, Keith-Symon, Inverpeffer and the lands in
Aberdeenshire which ultimately became the chief place of the family known
in later times as the Earls Marischal.
North of the old lands of the Keiths are those of Pencaitland, occupied
in the late twelfth and thirteenth centuries by a family so styled. ² But in
1276 there is a charter of resignation by John of Pencaitland in favour of
Herbert Maxwell of the lands of (Wester) Pencaitland, ³ while " Thomas de
Penkateland " forfeited (Easter) Pencaitland and Nisbet as a result of the
War of Independence, and these were conferred by Robert I. upon Robert de
Lawder. Subsequently (c. 1343) Sir John Maxwell of Caerlaverock granted
Wester Pencaitland to Alexander Maitland of Thirlestane, and Sir Robert
Maxwell transferred the superiority to the Abbey of Dryburgh. (cf. further p. xxiii).
Bolton, adjoining the Keith lands on the north-east, had been in possession
of the family of Veteri-ponte or Vipont since the days of William the Lion
and was confirmed to them by Robert I. and David II. (1366). A hundred
years later the lands of the barony of Bolton are found in possession of the
Halyburtons of Dirleton. ⁴ In 1494 they came into the hands of Patrick
Hepburn, second son of the second Lord Hailes, by forfeiture of Archibald
Lord Halyburton as a supporter of James III. in the late revolution. John
Hepburn of Bolton was executed as one of the murderers of Darnley.
The Halyburtons had come into Dirleton by the marriage, in the reign
of David II., of John, second son of Sir Adam Halyburton of Halyburton,
with the heiress of William de Vaux (de Vallibus), the family which had
possessed the lands of Dirleton and Gullane since the twelfth century (See
No. 27). From the Halyburtons in turn these lands passed by marriage
to the husbands of three heiresses, Lord Ruthven, Lord Home and Ker of
Fawdonside, of whom the Ruthvens, as Earls of Gowrie, forfeited their share
by the Gowrie Conspiracy in 1600 ; and all the shares were again united into
a single barony by the successor of the Ruthvens, Thomas Erskine of Gogar,
afterwards Earl of Kellie. ⁵ The Erskines, however, disposed of their property
1 Reg. de Kelso, Nos. 83, 88.
2 Ibid No. 13 Cf. Art. No. 135.
3 Book of Caerlaverock, vol. ii. p. 406.
4 Reg. Mag. Sig. (1474) No. 1189 and (1488) No. 1747.
5 R.M.S. (1620-33) No. 924
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
by sale, and in 1631 Sir John Maxwell of Innerwick became owner, who from
1646 rejoiced in the title of Earl of Dirleton, the first and the last to wear this
dignity. In 1663 Sir John Nisbet bought the property and as Lord Advocate
adopted the style of Lord Dirleton.
The barony of North Berwick originally belonged to the Earl of Fife, from
whom the first Earl of Douglas had the lands in tenantry. ¹ On the forfeiture
of the Duke of Albany and Earl of Fife in 1425 the Douglases became tenants-
in-chief of the Crown for this property. On the rebellion of the Black Douglas
line in 1452 the Earl of Angus received lands in the barony, which were
separately erected into the free barony of Tantallon (cf. No. 106). The grant
was renewed in 1479, and the property remained with the Douglases till in
1699 they were sold to Sir Hew Dalrymple, Lord President of the Court of
Session. Other Douglas families in East Lothian, for a long or short space of
time, were those of Kilspindie (see No. 4), Redhouse (see No. 7) and Whitting-
hame (see No. 213). Whittinghame was conferred by the Earl of March in
1372 on Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith, who had married his sister. It
passed from the Douglases in 1660 by marriage of the heiress to Alexander
Seton, first Lord Kingston, and again by a similar marriage to the son of
the first Earl of Tweeddale. (cf. No. 213).
The Bass was associated since early in the fourteenth century with the
family of Lauder, though the southern half of the island, apparently as
attached to the church there, belonged to the bishopric of St. Andrews ³
The charter by Bishop William Sinclair of St. Andrews to Robert de Lawedre
of " our part " of the Bass is dated 1316, but is now known only from a
copy. ⁴ Robert Lauder of the Bass was among the captives at the second
battle of Nesbit in 1402 (cf. p. xxviii). The Lauders of the Bass were also
tenants of Tynninghame and baillies of the lordship for the Archbishop of
St. Andrews, and at Tynninghame was their principal residence. The family
fell into financial difficulties early in the seventeenth century and the Bass,
after passing through several hands, came into possession of the Hepburns of
Waughton, in respect both of the north part held from the King and the
southern side formerly held from the Archbishop of St. Andrews. ⁵ From the
Hepburns it passed to Sir Alexander Ramsay, Lord Provost of Edinburgh,
from whom it was bought by the Crown in 1671, but in 1706 was granted
by charter to Sir Hew Dalrymple.
Innerwick had been a possession of Stewarts, having been granted by
David I. to Walter Fitz-Alan son of the first ' Steward.' In this way it
came to the Stewart Earls of Angus, the last of whom left two heiresses.
One of these, Margaret, married the first Earl of Douglas and Mar and the
other, Elizabeth Stewart, became the wife of Alexander Hamilton, grandson
through a younger son of " Wauter fiz Gilbert de Hameldone " of Ragman
Roll. Countess Margaret conferred Innerwick on her sister and Alexander
Hamilton in a charter confirmed by the King in 1398. ⁶ " Hameltone Laird
1 Act. Par. i. pp. 555, 565.
2 R.M.S. i. No. 522.
3 Exch. Rolls i. p. 453 ; R.M.S. (1425) No. 29 (1508) No. 3185, &c.
4 Cf. The Grange of St. Giles p. 152.
5 R.M.S. (1641) No. 1021.
6 Douglas Book iii. No. 33.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
of Innerweike " was taken prisoner " one the King's syde " at the battle of
Langside, 13 May, 1568. ¹
Apparently as long placed in East Lothian was the family of Hamilton
of Preston. The title-deeds of the family were destroyed in the burning of
the tower in 1650 (cf. No. 156) but Sir John Hamilton of Fingalton
(Renfrewshire) and Ross-Aven (Lanarkshire) appears to have married the
daughter and heiress of Sir James Lyddell of Preston towards the close of
the fourteenth century. ² The last direct male of the line was Sir Robert
Hamilton the Covenanter general, who died unmarried in 1701. The property
thereafter passed to the related family of the Hamiltons of Airdrie. In
contrast with the Preston house of this name the Hamiltons of Biel were
royalist, and Sir John Hamilton of Biel was created Lord Belhaven in 1647.
Title and lands fell to the husband of his grand-daughter, who was John
Hamilton, eldest son of Robert Hamilton of Barncluith afterwards Lord
Presmannan (now Presmennan) as a lord of session taking his title from his
East Lothian estate ; a supporter of the revolution of 1688 and a conspicuous
opponent of the Union of 1707. Lord Presmennan's second son, James, had a
charter of the lands and barony of Pencaitland in 1696 and was raised to
the bench in 1712 as Lord Pencaitland. (cf. No. 138).
Yester belonged to the family of Gifford probably from the last quarter
of the twelfth century. William " Giffard " is a witness to charters by David I.,
and Hugh Gifford was among the hostages for William the Lion in 1174.
Hugh Gifford of Yester, holder of the original castle, died in 1267 (cf. No. 251).
In 1322 Robert I. confirmed a charter to Thomas de Morham of the lands
of Morham and Duncanlaw, with the provision that, on the death of Thomas,
they should pass to John Gifford and his wife Eufamia, daughter and appar-
ently heiress of Thomas Morham. The lands of Barra also pertained to the
Morhams. ³ But Hugh Gifford, grandson of John, left only four heiresses.
Joanna, eldest of these, married Sir Thomas Hay of Locherworth, who, in his
fourth share of the property - Yester, Duncanlaw, Morham - acquired Yester
castle. His grandson, as " Thomas of Hay of Yester," had a safe-conduct
on December 13, 1423 to meet the returning James I. at Durham and as
Thomas Hay of Yester was among those arrested by the same king in 1425,
but was afterwards liberated. Sir David Hay acquired, by exchange in 1452,
another fourth share of Yester, Duncanlaw and Morham from Robert Boyd of
Kilmarnock, a descendant of the second of the Gifford heiresses. In 1463
William Maxwell, descendant of another sister (cf. 251), transferred his share
of the same estates to ' Dungall Macdowel,' grandson of the remaining heiress, in
exchange for an estate elsewhere. Dougall in 1477 granted for life what now
amounted to half of the lands of the baronies to Eufamia daughter of Patrick
Hepburn of Hailes and wife of his son Andrew and their heirs, and, on Andrew
Macdouall's resignation of these lands, the king in 1491 granted them to Patrick Hep-
burn of Hailes, Earl of Bothwell, segregating them as the barony of Morham.
Adam Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, in 1512 exchanged this half of Yester
and lands of Duncanlaw with John Hay of Yester for Hay's half of
1 Birrel's Diary.
2 Anderson's House of Hamilton p. 344.
3 Liber. S. Crucis No. 97.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Morham, and following on this the king united all the lands of Duncanlaw
to the rest of the barony of Yester. Yester and Duncanlaw were now wholly
the property of the Hays, as Morham was of the Hepburns.
From these Hays came the earls and marquises of Tweeddale. The
Hepburns attained the dignity of Lord Hailes (1451) and in 1488 of Earl of
Bothwell, the last Hepburn Earl being the husband of Queen Mary. The first
of the family on record is Adam Hepburn, who held from Patrick, Earl of
March the lands of " Southalls " and " Northalls." which had been forfeited
by Hugh Gourlay, according to the confirmation by David II. Adam likewise
held Traprain and Dunpender from the same superior. ¹ In 1367 we have Patrick
de " Hebhorn," lord of Hailes. After the forfeiture of the Earls of March, the
Hepburns came to hold of the Crown : in 1451 the King granted to Patrick Hepburn
of Hailes the lands of the lordship of Hailes, the lordship of Traprain and
Markle, the lands of Gamelshiels and Oldhamstocks with other lands and
rights, all of which the predecessors of Patrick had held of the Earl of March
before his forfeiture. Another branch of the family on the same tenure was Hep-
burn of Waughton, to whom also a royal charter was given in 1452 in favour of
Patrick Hepburn of the lands of " Walchtoun " and among others of Athelstaneford
(" Elstanfurde ") with the superiority of the lands of the same place then in the hands
of John de Touris and Robert Bisset. He also by exchange acquired the lands of
Luffness in 1464 (cf. No. 3). Other Hepburns were those of Bolton (cf. p. xxi)
Morham (p. xxiii), Beanston (Beynstoun), Fortoun or Fortune, Luffness, Gilmore-
stoun, Trabroun, etc. It was the most prevalent family in East Lothian. While
Yester was still of the Giffords, Hugh, son of Sir John Gifford conferred on Robert
Maitland, lord of Thirlestane (Lauderdale), the lands of " Levingtoune " or Leth-
ington, and this grant was confirmed by David II. in 1345. After the Giffords
these Lethington lands with the fortalice, etc. were held by the Maitlands from
the Hays of Yester. ² From these Maitlands came the Earls of Lauderdale. The
property passed by sale from the Maitlands to Lord Blantyre about the beginning
of the eighteenth century.
A minor family of long standing in the county was Congalton of Congalton
[Marginal note] Congalton
(No. 34). Walter knight of "Congelton" appears in the early thirteenth century,
c. 1224. ³ A later " Wautier de Congeltone del counte de Edneburke" ⁴ is on Ragman
Roll, and in the same year, 1296, Walter de " Congilton " and Adam de " Congilton"
were jurors on an inquest into the lands of Robert de Pinkeny of Ballencrieff. In
1517 we have on record Henry Congalton of that ilk (de eodem), ⁵ and in 1673 " William
Colgingtoun of Colgingtoun " was appointed one of the justices of the peace for
Haddingtonshire. For the later history of the family and estate down to the late
eighteenth century see Douglas's Baronage.
Another such family was that of Levingtoun of Saltcoats, on which see
No. 28. The Levingtouns were apparently tenants of the holders of
[Marginal note] Levington
Dirleton ; in 1467 George Lord Halyburton granted certain rights to William
" Levinton " of Saltcoats, his armourbearer. ⁶
1 R.M.S. i. No. 265.
2 Act. Parl. iii. p. 319.
3 Lib. de Dryburgh, p. 33.
4 Haddington or East Lothian being merely a constabulary within the Sheriffdom of Edin-
burgh cf. p. xvii.
5 R.M.S. s.a. No. 130.
6 Stodart's Scottish Arms ii. p. 322.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
In the south-east corner of the county Dunglas became the property of
Sir Thomas Home or Hume by his marriage with the heiress of the family
of Pepdie or Papedy, whence came the popinjays or parrots quartered on the
arms of Home. His grandson, Sir Alexander was the founder of the collegiate
church of Dunglas (cf. No. 124). Dunglas was originally held of the
Earl of Dunbar and March, but in 1451 the lands of Home (or Hume),
Dunglas, etc. were united into the free barony of Home in favour of Alexander
Home, eldest son of Sir Alexander Home and afterwards first Lord Home,
to be held of the King. There were other Homes of Spot.
Tynningham was a lordship or barony belonging to the see of St. Andrews,
of which the Lauders of the Bass were long tenants and baillies (cf. p. xxii). In the
years before and following the Reformation, however, it passed through several
hands, returning to Sir Robert Lauder in 1568, but finally (1627) finding a
place in the capacious grasp of the first Earl of Haddington. ¹ The parish of
Aberlady belonged to the diocese of Dunkeld. (cf. No. 2).
III.
MILITARY HISTORY OF EAST LOTHIAN.
Though after 1018 the history of the province of Lothian merges in that
of the Scottish kingdom, yet the special characteristics of its position gave it
from time to time a place apart in that record. This specialisation affected
more particularly the counties of Berwick (cf. Inventory of that county) and
East Lothian. Berwick was a march district or borderland, and East Lothian
lies just behind ; the Earl of Dunbar soon appears also as Earl of March and
held lands in both counties as well as, previous to the War of Independence,
in Northumberland. His commanding position in that quarter for so long
was thus analagous to that of a Carolingian duke endowed with both the
march and a county behind.
Another result of its position was that Lothian served as an eastern
corridor into Scotland. What was of old the more convenient route from the
border, that up Tweeddale and Lauderdale, skirted the western limit of
East Lothian, but the coast route by Cockburnspath passed behind Dunbar,
was bridged over the Tyne at East Linton and was bifurcated by the ridge
terminating in the Garleton hills into a continuation that followed the coastal
plain on one side and on the other the Tyne valley to Haddington and
beyond. The latter route was that taken by Edward III. very early in 1356
" with great power and majesty," when he stayed in Haddington and the
vicinity for ten days, burnt the burgh and with it the church of the Friars
Minor " the choir of which, because of its singular beauty and clear lighting
was commonly called The Lamp of Lothian," whence he carried his in-
cendiary and destructive march " through Lothian " as far as Edinburgh. ²
For the fleet which brought his supplies he probably used the port of Aberlady,
as the English and French did two centuries later in the operations about the same
place, a service which gave importance to the adjoining castle of Luffness. This
1 Earls of Haddington i. pp. xxxi-iii.
2 Scotich. Lib. xiv. cap. xiii.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
castle - of which nothing survives in the present building (No. 3) - was one of those
in which Edward II. had a garrison in 1311, while of the others occupied by the
same King the value of Dunbar as a port is obvious (cf. No. 36), while Dirleton
and Yester could serve as local bases.
In any struggle between the kingdoms East Lothian thus occupied an invidi-
ous position ; there the power of the invader on this side was first felt. It was
therefore prominent in the successive phases of the War of Independence, and
the first great military blow to the Scots was struck in their defeat at Dunbar
in 1296, where the local issue was possession of the castle covering the port.
We have noted above the castles in the district garrisoned for Edward II.,
in 1311, these being a legacy from his father's administration. It is clear
that East Lothian was subdued to the English King. Certain magnates of
the district, however, must be excepted : even in the days of Edward I.
Alexander de Lindsay had been relieved of his manor of Byres and Thomas
Randolph of that of Broxmouth for their adherence to the nationalist side. ¹
Walter de Bickerton (cf. No. 1) was an early supporter of Bruce. By 1312 other
local landholders had gone the same way ; Sir Robert de Keith, who had done so
three years before and so had his barony of Keith given to others, and Godfrey
of Coalstoun, who had left English allegiance along with Keith. But the most
powerful magnate Patrick 9th Earl of Dunbar, was still English and with Sir Adam
de Gordon of Berwickshire, Justiciar of Lothian, was envoy to Edward II on behalf
of the district, which was suffering equally at the hands of "the enemy," that
is the insurgent Scots under Bruce, and the garrisons of Berwick and Rox-
burgh in English occupation. Among the Berwick oppressors was Thomas de
Pencaitland, an East Lothian gentleman, who could serve as ' guide ' to the
plundering columns. Thus to the Scots Lothian was enemy country, and,
when a truce was dearly bought from Bruce, forthwith the English forces of
occupation also would treat the people as enemies. The Lanercost chronicler
notes such a truce in 1311-12 on behalf of " the county of Dunbar next to
Berwick," where they " were still in the King of England's peace," and no
doubt hits off the situation correctly when he explains that Scottish acquies-
cence in English rule was but " feigning," either because England " was the
stronger party or in order to save the lands they possessed in England."
There was apparently another truce in 1313, and Edward, in reply to the above
petition, promised to come for the relief of Lothian in the following year. But
that became the year of Bannockburn, after which the English interest in this
quarter dissolved fast. By 1316-17, the Earl of Dunbar and March was a ' rebel '
to England and about the same time, or earlier, " Schir Adam of Gordoune . . .
wes becummyne a Scottis man." ²
A significant fact here is that the triumph of Bruce brought no great
change in the territorial families of East Lothian, the only important dis-
appearances being those of de Ferrers from Falside and la Zouche from Tranent
(cf. p. xx). The later stage of the War of Independence, the struggle
against Edward Balliol as King and Edward III. of England, witnessed a
more compact and persistent opposition to that faction on the part of the
East Lothian lords and lairds. In 1334 the constabulary of Haddington was
1 Cal. Docts. iii. No. 258.
2 Ibid. No. 536 ; Barbour's Brus xv. 333-4.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
one of the divisions of southern Scotland transferred by Edward Balliol to the
domain of his English patron, and the financial record of the English adminis-
tration in 1335-7 shows the much greater part of the district either in that King's
hands through forfeiture or disposed of by him. The forfeited owners include the
Earl of Dunbar, the Earl of Fife in North Berwick manor (cf. No. 106) Robert de
Lauder, William de Keith, Stewart of Thornton, the Bickertons of Luffness and
" Balnacrieff " (cf. No. 5) Alan de Winton of Winton, Reginald More in
the Barony of Drem, Maxwell of Wester Pencaitland and Malcolm de Ramsay
in land there, Simon Fleming of Stoneypath (cf. No. 214), Randolph Noble
in Garmilton-Noble (cf. No. 11) and Thomas Libaud in Garmilton-Dunning
(cf. p. xxi), Patrick de Gourlay in Beneston, John de Newton in Newton
(cf. No. 252), Godfrey Broun in Coalstoun, John de Broxmouth in
Broxmouth, Laurence de Preston in land in the barony of Tranent, Maurice
de Moravia in lands in Ballencrieff and some others ; while the barony of
Dirleton, Innerwick and the domain of the Bishops of Dunkeld in Aberlady
(cf. No. 2) had been granted by Balliol or Edward to some of their conspic-
uous agents. The ebb-tide of English failure, however, swept out the latter
class and brought back the former to their old places.
Because of their record as regards England, Kennedy in his Flyting with
the poet William Dunbar, who was descended from the Dunbars of Beneston,
rails at the Castle of Dunbar as " that awld spelunk (cave) of tressoun," but
disregards the more plausible occasion for such a reproach, when in 1400
the tenth Earl of Dunbar, affronted by the withdrawal of the Duke of Rothesay
from marriage with his daughter, retired to England and assumed English
allegiance. Dunbar Castle (No. 36) he left in the custody of his nephew,
Robert Maitland, but Maitland handed it over to Archibald Douglas, son and
heir of Earl Archibald. Failing to have his castle returned, March, summoning
to him his sons and friends, took an active part in the attacks of Henry IV.
upon Scotland, devoting his attentions particularly to the lands on the east
border. The English had not yet accustomed themselves to inroads as far
as East Lothian, but March showed the way and many both of peasantry
and rich men about Haddington, with much spoil, were haled off with impunity
to England. On February 3, 1401 March with Henry Percy "Hotspur " and
a big following made a surprise visit to the ' vill of Popil ' (Papple) whence
the burned and spoiled as far as East Linton, made two attacks upon Hailes
castle, burnt the townships (combustis villis) of Hailes, Traprain and Markle
and made their camp at East Linton and Preston. But Archibald, Master
of Douglas, hurrying from Edinburgh castle, raised the countryside (patria)
" at the sound of horn and trumpet," and by sunset was at the hill of
" Pentrak," whereupon the invaders abandoned everything and in disorder
made off to Berwick via Cockburnspath. ¹
Nevertheless the sympathies of the people of the earldom were with their
own Earl ² despite his activity in making mischief for his country. But
a combination of the Lothian gentlemen, suggested and supported by young
Archibald Douglas, now Earl, in Dunbar Castle, retaliated with raids upon
England, in which each of the leading lairds should take command in turn
1 Scotich. Lib. xv. cap. x.
2 Ibid. cap xiii.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
and a definite limit should be fixed for each expedition. John Halyburton
of Dirleton commanded the first expedition, and, keeping strictly to the pro-
gramme drawn up, returned safely from a successful exercise of destruction.
The second effort was under the athletic Patrick Hepburn, junior of Hailes,
but overstaying his allotted time, Hepburn was overtaken by March with his
Scots and Northumbrians at Nesbit Moor in Berwickshire on June 22, 1402,
where Hepburn's column was badly beaten, and he himself slain with many
more. Among the captives, who included the very flower of Lothian chivalry
(quasi flos militiae magnae partis Laudoniae) were John and Thomas Halyburton
Robert Lauder of the Bass, and the brothers John and William Cockburn. ¹
March again is said to have been responsible for the tactics which crushed the Scots
at Homildon Hill, near Berwick, on September 14 of the same year, where a long
roll of captives included such East Lothian gentlemen as William Sinclair of Herd-
manston, Patrick Dunbar of Biel, Alexander Home of Douglas and Walter Bickerton
of Luffness. As a consequence of this disaster several holds on the Scottish side of
the border fell into English hands, among them Innerwick in East Lothian, which,
however, was recaptured by the Regent Albany in the summer of the following year,
who levelled it to the ground (ad terram prostravit ; but cf. No. 87). The
rancorous activities of March, however, were now diverted by the rising of
the Percies against Henry IV. ; he found England increasingly uncomfortable
and in 1409, by the mediation of Walter Halyburton of Dirleton, made his
peace with the Regent Albany and was restored to the earldom of Dunbar
and March, with the loss of his Dumfriesshire lands to the Earl of Douglas
in compensation for Dunbar Castle. (cf. further p. 27).
About the middle of the sixteenth century East Lothian and the town of
Haddington in particular became the stage of the last English aggressive
effort upon Scotland. The battle of Pinkie Cleuch had occurred on September
10, 1547, and on the march to that position the Duke of Somerset had caused
to be destroyed the fortalices of Dunglass, Thornton and Innerwick (cf.
No. 87). Thence the English army passed on by Dunbar, where the castle
send " divers shottes " among them, ² camped for the night near Tantallon, crossed
the Tyne at Linton Bridge, observed Hailes and continued by Beneston over the
Garleton Hills to Longniddry and Prestonpans. Falside tower (No. 193) suffered
destruction. After the victory the English army returned by Soutra and Lauder,
leaving garrisons, however, in Broughty Castle, on the Firth of Tay, which had
been handed over by Lord Gray, and Inchcolm, and also retaining the castles of
Roxburgh and Hume.
Early in the following year active operations against Scotland were resumed,
and English columns penetrated the country simultaneously on the west and
east marches. Many of the East Lothian gentlemen were " assured " to the
English side, including the lairds of Ormiston (Cockburn), Longniddry (Hugh
Douglas), Coalston (Broun), " Trayborne " (i.e. Trabroun), Humbie (Keith) and
Whittinghame (Douglas). But of these only Ormiston persevered to the end ;
by the late summer it had found that the rest of the Lothian gentlemen were
but doubtful friends to the invader. ³ Lord Grey of Wilton, Governor of Berwick,
1 Scotich. Lib. xv. cap. xiii.
2 Patten's Expedicion into Scotlande p. 37.
3 Scottish Papers i. No. 299 and passim.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
encamped with a force at Cockburnspath on the last day of February and thereafter
started for the town of Haddington, possessing himself of Hailes Castle (cf. No. 147)
on the way, of the Cistercian nunnery east of the town the same night and next
day getting into his hands the places of Waughton (No. 146), Salton (No. 164),
Herdmanston (" Harmyston," No. 163), Yester (No. 251) and Nunraw (No. 45).
The first idea was to place garrisons in each of these " strengths," but such a
dispersal of forces seemed dangerous - the Earl of Arran, Governor of Scotland,
had promptly surprised and captured Salton and Ormiston - and the country would
" bende allwayes to the master of the felde " wherefore it was proposed
to provide Dunbar or Haddington with a great force. Dunbar Castle, however,
was still in Scottish hands, and so in March the fortification of Haddington was
being undertaken at the same time as that of Broughty Craig ; the position
at Inchcolm was destroyed and abandoned.
The fortifying of Haddington went on for some three months, till its
investment began on the last day of June. The work was planned and
superintended by Sir Thomas Palmer, an experienced English engineer, and,
being done on the lines of the period, was the most scientific military
work of its class hitherto constructed in Scotland. It was square, with
bastions (" boulevards ") at the corners, was wholly constructed of earth and
turf and had an outer round-bottomed ditch, dry save in wet weather, in the
digging of which old coins were found and sent by Grey to Somerset, with
a request that one should be presented to the King, Edward VI. There was a second
ditch behind the outer rampart. Timbers - faggots, rods, heather - for the earth-
works were cut in the woods adjacent to the town. Within the enclosure remained
" the substance of all the town and fair houses," though there was a clearance of
buildings on the bank of the river. The convent of Franciscan Friars was
included in the works, but the parish church was marked for destruction
as a commanding position well within range, a task, however, which was apparently
prevented by the arrival of the besiegers. (cf. No. 68). To them the building was
useful both for cover and observation, and the Germans of the French army erected
a high gun platform of timber within it, but the town guns made the position
untenable. ¹
" We think the keeping of Haddington to be the winning of Scotland,"
wrote Lord Grey. What emphasised the menace was that another English
fort at Broughty on the Firth of Tay played for Fife and Angus the part
which Haddington did for East Lothian, while fortified positions at Lauder,
Hume and Roxburgh accounted for Berwickshire ; and the English fleet held
the sea. On the other hand Haddington as an advanced base had its defects.
Its nearest port was Aberlady, between two and three miles away, and that was
held against them. So was Dunbar Castle, covering that port ; they could only
burn the town, and they did. For lines of communication they were thus
confined to the one up Lauderdale and that by Cockburnspath from Berwick.
In a memorial of June 1548 relative to the operations about Haddington it
is pointed out " that there is a passage by a place called " Steinston "
(? Stenton), which you may learn by men of the country, and consider what
may be done that way." Nothing was done, and they were restricted to the routes
1 Ham. Papers ii. p. 603
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
mentioned. The former was kept open by a strong fort at Lauder, while for the
latter a fort was raised at Dunglass. But should the surrounding country come
into hostile hands, Haddington might be isolated and victualling and relief become
a matter for an army. ¹
On the arrival of the French and their mercenaries, about the middle of
June, under the command of André Montalembert, Sieur d'Essé, an attack was
directed upon the town, where Sir James Wilforth or Wilford had been
appointed commander. On both sides there was a motley array of troops.
In Haddington were English, Spaniards, Germans (Allmaynes) and Italians.
On the Scottish side were French, German and Swiss " landsknechts," Italians
and Spaniards. The bulk of both forces, indeed, was composed of these
mercenary troops, representing military specialisation. The first operations of the
Franco-Scottish force were directed towards breaching the fortifications for assault,
and batteries were assembled round the town, the French and Italians operating
from Clerkington and Lethington, the Germans entrenching along the water side
beyond the bridge, the Scots, " in no great strength," at the nunnery and the
Highland contingent on the hill to the north. On the east guns were brought up
from Dunbar. By July 2 the town was " enclosed round about." By bombardment
and sapping the French mastered the ' bulwark ' or bastion at the south-west
corner, silenced its guns and were expected to assault but did not. Within a week
or so an English column, having tricked d'Essé out of the road from Linton by
the treachery of a Scot, managed to throw 200 men with powder and shot into the
town. ² The Haddington garrison went on with their earthen fortifications, and by
the 22nd it could be said the town was five times stronger than when the French
came. Projects of direct attack were now set aside in favour of a blockade against
relief and supplies. ³ The Lothian lairds, who had hitherto maintained the victualling
of the place, were now shifting side and were straightly commanded under the
penalties of treason to prevent English communication with Haddington through
their respective lands. ⁴ By August 23 the Earl of Shrewsbury had brought a re-
lieving army of over 12,000 foot besides horse as far as Spittal Hill, near Longniddry,
but finally had to retreat for want of supplies. However Haddington was
now claimed to be " out of peril." Dunbar was burnt again and the fort
at Dunglass (No. 125) begun. After Shrewsbury's relief the formal siege was
abandoned, though a surprise night attack or " camisado " from Edinburgh in
the dawn of October 9 very nearly brought the French into the place. ⁵
In the same month a new enemy appeared within the gates, the garrison being
sorely weakened and reduced by sickness, mostly plague, so that by November 1,
not a thousand men were fit to man the walls ; while there was lack of
everything, and the few horsemen were worn out under the labour of convoying
from beyond Dunbar two or three carts of supplies daily, in which they were
liable to attack by flying columns of Scots. Early in 1549 the French were moving
towards Haddington in considerable numbers and were fortifying the line of the
Esk. ⁶ In June, fresh troops arrived from France with a new commander, De
1 Beaugué's Historie de la guerre d'Ecosse p. 23.
2 Beaugué p. 32 ; Buchanan's History xv. § lix.
3 Beaugué p. 53.
4 Ham. Papers ii. p. 617.
5 Beaugué xxv-vi ; Teulet Papiers d'Etat i. p. 200.
6 Ham Papers ii. Nos. 548, 549.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Thermes, who had a fort constructed at Aberlady to shut off supplies to Haddington
by this sea gate, ¹ (cf. No. 3). Meantime that town continued in sore straits with
sickness and lack of supplies. By September it was decided to evacuate " the
evell taken town," in which the desperate garrison could " no longer abide their
misery," but they were still in Haddington on the 27th September. ² In the end
the Earl of Rutland succeeded by a night march in bringing off the guns and
ammunition with the men fit to travel. ³ On the conclusion of peace the works at
Haddington were entirely destroyed.
A hundred years later Oliver Cromwell and his army played an analagous
part in East Lothian. On July 25, 1650 he was at Cockburnspath and next
day took in provisions from his fleet at Dunbar, thence marching to Haddington.
Just beyond the town his cavalry got in touch and skirmished with the
Scots, who fell back through Musselburgh. After the series of manoeuvres,
in which he was outplayed by David Leslie, he had to retire eastwards and
again arrived at Haddington on August 31, where on Sunday, September 1,
he offered battle in the open country, which was declined. That same night
he fell back on Dunbar, where he could be in touch with his fleet and there
won his notable victory over Leslie and the Scots. Hailes was among the local
strongholds immediately " quitted " by the Scots. Thereafter came the siege of
Dirleton (No. 27) and of Tantallon (No. 106) as operations necessary to keep clear
his communications between Berwick and Edinburgh.
GENERAL SURVEY.
I.
ARCHӔOLOGY.
The County of East Lothian is readily accessible from the coast and from
Midlothian on the west, but is hemmed in on the south by the hilly barrier
separating it from the Merse, from which access is obtained either round the
eastern and western extremities of the hills or by the narrow pass cut through
them by the Whitadder Water. The county occupies an area of only about
270 square miles, and the greater part of it consists of a rich, fertile, plain,
gradually increasing in elevation by undulating heights as the hills are ap-
proached, and broken up here and there by intrusions of igneous rocks, which
form the prominent eminences of Traprain Law and North Berwick Law, and
the low range of the Garleton Hills between the valley of the River Tyne and
level plain stretching towards the Forth. Much of the land has been under
cultivation from early times, and consequently many of the prehistoric monu-
ments which formerly existed in these parts have been swept away. In certain
districts in the hill country, however, many traces of these activities of the
early inhabitants have survived.
That the county has been occupied at one time by a people in the
neolithic or later stone age of culture is indicated only by the presence of
implements and weapons of flint and other kinds of stone, which occasionally
turn up in the fields and in sand covered areas near the sea-shore. No traces
1 Balfour's Annales ; Leslie De Origine &c. p. 480.
2 Illustr. Reign of Q. Mary pp. 43, 45, 47.
3 Leslie p. 480.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
of their habitations or graves have been recorded ; no examples of the long
cairn of neolithic times, with the burial chamber and entrance passage
suitable for repeated interments, are known to exist, although a long cairn, the
" Mutiny Stones " (Berwickshire Inventory, No. 249) probably of the same class,
lies within half a mile of the southern boundary of the county. Very few flint imple-
ments are recorded from the inland parts, but in recent years considerable numbers
[Illustration inserted]
FIG.6. - Bronze Spearhead (15 1/2 inches) from East Lothian (p. xxxvi).
of these relics, including
barbed and leaf-shaped arrow-
heads, scrapers, knives, saws
and borers, have been brought
to light on the sands near
Gullane and Archerfield and
in fields within a few miles of
Dunbar : a number of stone
axes, flint arrowheads, scrapers and knives have been found during excavations on
Traprain Law and a knife-like implement and scraper of the same material on
North Berwick Law. The flint of which these implements are fashioned is the same
[Illustration inserted]
FIG. 7. - Urn from Stobshiel.
[Illustration inserted]
FIG. 8. - Urn from Drem.
as that used in Berwickshire for similar purposes ; it is of a fine quality of grey or
black colour. A small proportion of yellow flint is seen, but the predominant colour
is a translucent grey of various shades. From the quantity of fine flakes
found in the localities which produce the finished implements it seems evident
that they were made at these places, although it may be noted that very few
of the roughly pyramidal cores or nuclei so often seen on the sites of flint
factories have been found. A few stone axes also have been unearthed ; one
from Stobshiel, Humbie, and another from Garvald are preserved in the
National Museum of Antiquities, while at least six others have been found
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
in the neighbourhood of Dunbar along with the flint implements. Although the
question of stone weapons is dealt with under the neolithic period, it is well known
that many classes of these implements continued to be made and used long after
the use of metals was begun.
A considerable number of the sepulchral monuments ascribed to the
succeeding Bronze Age survive ; inhabited sites of this period have been
identified at North Berwick, near Archerfield, and on Traprain Law, and a number
of the graves and weapons have been found in the county.
Cairns. - Round cairns, presumably of the Bronze Age, are seen in various
parts, but none of them attains any great size. Excluding the numerous
small cairns east of Gullane, only eighteen, of these constructions, including
two sites, have been recorded. There are three hill-top cairns, on the summits
of Spartleton (No. 183), Priestlaw Hill (No. 226) and Harestone Hill (No. 54)
and these attain a diameter of 50 feet, 40 feet and 43 feet respectively.
Erected at an elevation of from 1250 feet to over 1500 feet above sea level
it is not certain that they are of sepulchral character, but from their size
it is very probable that they are. Two cairns survive in the low country
on Whitekirk Hill (No. 204) and at Tynemouth (No. 205), the latter, which
measures 60 feet in diameter and 11 feet in height, being in a fine state of
preservation. In the cairn " Fairy Knowe " Meiklerig, Stenton (No. 188)
which was removed in 1877, two short cists containing incinerated remains
were found ; a cinerary urn was recovered from one cist and a flint knife
and whetstone from the other, these relics being now preserved in the National
Museum of Antiquities. In the same museum are two bifid tanged blades of
bronze supposed to have been used as razors, and a socketed axe of the
same material, which were found in a tumulus at Bowerhouse, Dunbar, and
presented to the Museum in 1829. In the cairn on North Berwick West Golf
Course (No. 112), which was partly removed, a stone cist contained the remains
of a skeleton and an urn of the food vessel type. Fragments of a second urn and
more skeletal remains were found outside the cist. Including the hill-top cairns
on Spartleton and Priestlaw Hill there have been at least eleven examples in the
region drained by the upper Whitadder and its tributary the Bothwell Water.
As these occur along one of the three lines of penetration into the county from the
south, it might be inferred that the people who erected these monuments immi-
grated by this route, especially as other classes of monuments believed to belong
to the same period are found in this district and nowhere else. It should be noted
however that there is no corresponding abundance of similar structures to the south
of this region. Although it is difficult to get away from the fact that they lie in close
proximity to an ancient line of route, perhaps the natural features of the locality
may to some extent explain their presence. The hills here attain less altitude than
in other parts of the Lammermuirs, and they spread out into dry broad un-
dulating ridges covered with more grass than heather, so providing a more
hospitable region for human habitation than the adjoining hill country to the
east and west. The most interesting cairn in this district is " Table Rings,"
Penshiel Hill (No. 232), as it is one of the few bell cairns known in Scotland.
The encircling ditch and outer bank are clearly defined. This variety of
cairn or rather barrow is well-known in the south of England. Unfortunately
many of the cairns have been tampered with, and possibly the bell-cairn may
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
also have suffered, as there is a slight hollow on the summit. In wind-swept
gullies amongst the sand dunes between Gullane and North Berwick about
1/2 mile south of Eyebroughy are the remains of numerous small cairns, which
are believed to have been erected over Iron Age graves. At least thirty or
forty of these have been examined, but, as the most of them seemed to have
been previously disturbed, only a quantity of human bones and small fragments
of what seemed to have been cinerary urns were recovered. A few cists were
found. One interesting grave, quite different from all the others, was found
under a small cairn of stones. Built of stones of moderate size and covered
with a large slab it contained the remains of three adult skeletons but no other
relics. Against the northern end of the grave, but outside it, were four
[Marginal note] Reference wanted.
human skulls with the remains of the skeletons of which they formed part
below them. The oval-shaped grave measured about 4 feet in length by
about 3 feet in breadth and about 3 feet in depth.
Stone Circles. - Seven stone circles or the remains of circles have been
noted, of which only two seem to have escaped the hand of the spoiler.
They are all to be found in the upper Whitadder district, in which the
majority of the cairns are seen. None of them is formed of very big stones
or is of large diameter. Three varieties are represented, one being rather uncommon.
This is composed of very small stones, none rising more than 16 inches above ground.
There are four examples of this class, of which two are probably complete ; the
first on Kingside Hill (No. 240) measuring about 39 feet in diameter is composed
of thirty stones on the circumference, many set close together on the northern arc,
with a large stone near the centre just appearing above ground but sunk nearly
2 feet into the soil ; the second near Zadlee (No. 172) has only seven stones and
measures 27 feet in diameter. The setting on Spartleton Edge (No. 185) is also
of this category and shows a circle of ten or eleven stones. The monument has
been disturbed. The remaining circle of this class, on the northern slope of Penshiel
Hill (No. 241), is incomplete or perhaps is covered by a growth of peat for the greater
part. The Kingside Hill circle resembles to a certain extent the circle on Borrow-
stone Rig, Lauder (Berwickshire Inventory, No. 226), which is composed of thirty-two
stones rising 2 feet at most above the surface, with a stone lying 7 feet within the
circle. The " Nine Stones " Circle near Johnscleugh (No. 239) is in a class by itself.
With a diameter of about 22 feet it now contains eight stones, several of
which are displaced and overthrown. They are for the most part rough
boulders, the highest stone now standing being triangular in shape and rising
3 feet in height. The remaining two examples near Penshiel Tower (Nos. 242
243) have been formed of four monoliths each ; one has been entirely destroyed,
the stones having been dragged some distance out of their places, and the
other has only one monolith erect, a fine pillar 4 feet high, while three others
are overthrown.
Standing Stones. - Of standing stones seven are seen in the low country, five
of them being fine tall monoliths. " Loth's Stone " near Traprain Law (No. 149)
is the traditional burial site of King Loth, (cf. p. 99) and the stone at Easter
[Marginal note]? cf Luaths Stones Tough & Kildrummy Aberdeenshire.
Broomhouse near Dunbar (No. 174) bears three cup marks on one face.
There is no record or indication that any of these stones formed part of a
stone circle.
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 9. - Sculptured Stone, Leaston (No. 84).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 10. - Sculptured Stone, Cockles Smithy (No. 80).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 11. - Ramparts and West Entrance, Kæheughs Fort (No. 74).
To face p. xxxiv. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Settings of Small Stones. - In the Whitadder district are three different
settings of stones enclosing small irregular areas (Nos. 244, 245, 246). Neither the
purpose nor the period of these constructions is known, but the stones of which
they are formed bear a striking resemblance to the stones in the circles near Zadlee
and on Spartleton Edge.
Rock Sculpturings. - Only three rock sculpturings have been noted, the
first a group of three cup-marks on one foot of the standing stone at Easter
Broomhouse (No. 174), already referred to, the second an incised spiral of two
turns ending in a recurved bifurcation on a boulder at the crossroads at
Cockles Smiddy near Haddington (No. 80) and the third of five concentric
circles at Leaston House (No. 84). On the hills many stones are met with
bearing hollows which strongly resemble artificial cup marks, but these may
be expected wherever greywacke is the material.
Hut Circles and Small Cairns. - In every one of the counties surveyed by
the Commission, both in the north of Scotland and in the south, hut-circles
with small cairns near them have been recorded. Although there is no
record of any of the cairns having yielded up human remains, it is believed
that these may be some of the sepulchral monuments of the people of whose
habitations the hut-circles are the survivals. From the fact that these con-
structions are so often built in close proximity to the round cairn of Bronze
Age date, it was believed that they were so far contemporary. Recently
a hut circle in Ayrshire has yielded up fragments of a clay vessel resembling the
Bronze Age beaker type apparently confirming the accuracy of the hypothesis.
Several groups of hut-circles and cairns are met with in the same district as the
stone circles, cairns and small settings of stones, the finest and most numerous group
being on Kingside Hill (No. 234) within 300 yards of a circle (No. 240) and
two large cairns (No. 231). They occur at an elevation of about 1000 to
1100 feet above sea-level, rather higher than in Galloway and the north
country, where they seem to keep between the 600 and 900 feet contours.
A number of graves of this period, besides those mentioned in the cairns,
have from time to time been found. A short cist lined with slabs containing
a human skeleton was found in the Pishwanton Wood, Yester. Four short cist
burials with urns were uncovered in the vicinity of Carlkemp, N. Berwick. Three
urns of the food vessel type preserved in the National Museum of Antiquities were
found along with the remains of a human skeleton in a short cist on the farm of
Duncra Hill, Pencaitland. A cinerary urn from Quarryford, Garvald, and frag-
ments of another, which was found with human remains at Tranent, are now in the
National Museum as well as a food-vessel urn from Humbie Mills, another from
Gullane Links and a third from near Dunbar. An important Bronze Age burial
site is noted in Art. No. 31.
A kitchen-midden at Tusculum, North Berwick, and another on the links
north-east of Gullane have been identified as Bronze Age sites, probably the first
inhabited sites of that period to be recognised in Scotland. The two sites
have been excavated, each yielding up numerous fragments of pottery and a
few flint implements as well as food refuse. Much of the pottery was of
the Bronze Age beaker type, and a portion of one of the bases of a vessel
from the first mentioned site bore the impress of two grains of wheat, on which
the vessel had been placed before it was fired, when the clay was soft.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
The number of bronze implements or weapons found in the county is
inconsiderable and the following are preserved in the National Museum of
Antiquities : two flat axes from Camptoun, The Chesters (No. 13), one flanged
axe from Grants Braes, two spear-heads exact locality unknown but from East
Lothian, a halbert probably from Nunraw, a sword from Keith House (No. 83),
another from Southfield, Gladsmuir, and a ring from near Elphinstone Tower.
Defensive Constructions. - The forts or fortified village sites of Scotland present
many problems to the archæologist, as very few of them have been excavated. The
great majority seem to be of comparatively late date, none of those excavated
having been proved to be older than the early Iron Age, although the recovery
of six bronze rapier blades from the ditch surrounding the circular earthen
fort on Drumcoltran Hill (Kirkcudbright Inventory No. 280), if the
record is correct, would point to a Bronze Age date for this structure. The
fact that Roman relics have been found within the confines of more than one
fort is evidence that their inhabitants were in touch with Roman civilisation,
and consequently some, probably many, of these defences existed near the
beginning of our era. As forts continued to be built and occupied down to,
and probably for some time after the Norman conquest of England, their
period covers a millenium. In that long stretch of time many forts would
be built, occupied for a time, and then deserted for more suitable sites or
for fresh fields or pastures new. But without extensive scientific excavation
it is almost impossible to place the different forts in their proper sequence.
In many parts of Scotland, groups of forts are often within a very
limited area, and amongst the questions suggested by this phenomenon are to
what periods do the different forts belong, what was the extent of the popu-
lation or how much country was drawn upon to provide men not only to
construct but to defend their often extensive works, and what were the
political conditions of the country that made them necessary and made it
possible to collect a force sufficient to storm such places ? Considerable en-
closed areas would be required to protect flocks and herds from the ravages
of wild beasts, but that does not explain the number of fortified sites with a
plurality of defences.
As is the case in other counties, the forts of East Lothian are more
generally distributed throughout the county than other classes of prehistoric
remains. Several survive in the low country, not always on the summits of
small hills, and only two on the sea-coast. Probably the sites of Dunbar
Castle and Tantallon were occupied by prehistoric forts, but if so all traces
of them have disappeared. A very small part of the coast-line of this county
is rocky and precipitous, and this no doubt accounts for the paucity of defences
in these parts. On the line of the Whitadder highway there are three defensive
sites, and one of these, the Friar's Nose fort (No. 219), from the conformity
of the country, may be considered as belonging to the Berwickshire group.
The remainder of the forts are placed along the northern flank of the Lammer-
muirs, from one end of the range to the other, but the most of them are
found on the hills to the south of, and in the lower country near Gifford.
Fifteen of the thirty-four defensive structures recorded from the county are
in this district, twelve of these occurring within a distance from east to west
of less than six miles. In this district there is only one cairn, while in the
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG 12. - Greencastle (No. 46).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 13. - West Ramparts, The Chesters, Drem (No. 13).
To face p. xxxvi. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Whitadder area in the vicinity of the cairns and circles there are only two
defensive positions.
The ramparts of nearly all the forts have been constructed of stone or
of stone and earth, but so general has been the spoliation of the walls for
building material that what may have been a fine stone wall originally now
appears as a tumbled mass showing more earth than stone. Only in two forts,
Dunpender on Traprain Law (No. 148) and the Harelaw fort (No. 254), do clean
stones remain in any quantity. A few forts have the ramparts entirely built of
earth and in no case has rock cutting been noticed.
It will be convenient to group the individual examples under the following
categories:-
1. Promontory or cliff forts, which includes those on sites protected by
precipices, cliffs or water and only partially defended by artificial
works.
2. Hill forts with defences following the natural lines of the hill, partially
defended by natural features of the site.
3. Forts of regular geometrical plan, rectangular, circular or oval.
4. Small defensive enclosures of a possibly domestic character.
1. Promontory or Cliff Forts. - There is only one example of this class
in the county, " Castle Dykes " (No. 126) in the angle formed by the deep
ravine of the Bilsdean Burn and the cliff on the sea shore at the mouth of
the stream. A single rampart of earth of considerable dimensions thrown up
from the top of the cliff to the precipitous edge of the ravine forms the sole
artificial defence of this area.
2. Hill Forts. - The constructions dealt with under this heading are
those showing that their scheme of defensive works has been much influenced
by the natural features of their site. They are not confined to the hill
country but appear on eminences in the lowlands as well. One of the most
interesting of these forts is that on Harelaw (No. 254), which occupies a
commanding position on a spur of the Lammermuirs. The inner defence of
drystone building may be of a later date than the other walls, which include
two outer earthen ramparts with a much dilapidated stone wall inside. This
must have been a wall of great strength, as the tumbled stones in places cover
a width of 30 feet. A quantity of vitrified material is seen on the line of
this wall on the east and south-west, but the extent of the vitrification can only
be ascertained by excavation. This is the only fort in the county in which
vitrified stones were noted. In the line of the ditch at the south-west
three hollows have been excavated. These seem to be contemporary with
the other structures, as the ditch has not been otherwise excavated at this
part. The " White Castle," Garvald (No. 52) and "The Castles," Yester
(No. 256) show many features in common both as regards site and structure.
They each occupy a small spur, with high steep flanks, projecting into an
angle between two very small burns and are not commanded by the adjacent
ground from which they protrude. They are terraced in parts on the steep
natural escarpment of the flanks and projecting end, and are strongly defended
by ramparts and ditches, where they connect with the hills. The former seems
to have been furnished with earthen walls, while the latter, which shows walls
of stone and earth, has four cellular spaces in the outer ditch near the
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
entrance, which may be compared with three somewhat similar hollows
in Harelaw fort. While the hollows at Harelaw seem part of the
original structure, those at " The Castles " may be later, as the outer rampart is
broken down opposite them. The Garvald Mains fort (No. 51) occupies a
high projecting plateau overlooking the Papana Water and is terraced on the
steep scarp rising from the haugh on the right bank of the burn. The site
on the Castle Hill, North Berwick (No. 121) is placed in this group only on
account of its similarity in being terraced outside and lower than its wall
and its occupying a spur projecting fron the high terrace on the shore. It is
also fortified across the narrow part connecting it with this terrace. The
" Green Castle " (No. 46) somewhat resembles some of these forts in its position. It
occupies a small triangular plateau, in the angle between two burns, which is
connected with the gradual slope at the foot of the steep Newlands Hill by a
narrow neck. It is defended by a stone wall on the edge of the plateau,
but, instead of being terraced on its steeply scarped sides, there is a rampart of
considerable dimensions erected along one side and round one end on the slope
of the escarpment. Defences have also been constructed on the mainland
from which it projects, one of these being on the opposite bank of the burn
which borders one side. The defence at Stobshiel (No. 85) may be compared
with the " Green Castle," inasmuch as it is triangular in plan and is defended
by a massive rampart on the edge of its steep escarpments. It is however situated
on a detached ridge. In the interior is a number of circular hut
foundations. The Park Burn fort (No. 48), which is situated on a sloping
ridge, shows the peculiarity of an outer wall running along the foot of the
steep escarpment on one flank. The fort (No. 49) which lies only 400 yards
distant shows only a single rampart and is the smallest of the
East Lothian forts. Three forts The Hopes (No. 257), Witches Knowe (No. 258)
and Kaeheughs (No. 74), the first two on the Lammermuirs and the third near
Haddington, are entirely defended along one flank by nature. The Hopes fort,
situated at an elevation of 1350 feet above sea level, is an earthwork, defended along
one side by an almost inaccessible scree-covered slope about 250 feet in height.
It is not only the highest and most extensive of the East Lothian forts but has the
most elaborate system of defences. The extreme length between the outer defences
along the major axis is 740 feet and at the northern end are six lines of defence
comprised in an outer and inner group.
3. Forts of regular geometrical form. - In this class are forts of rectangular,
circular, or oval form not dependent on natural slopes for protection, even
though they appear on the summits or slopes of hills.
(a) Rectangular Forts. - None of this shape has been noted in the county.
(b) Circular Forts. - The forts of this description as a rule are seen on
the hills, but " Black Castle," Garvald (No. 50) is situated in a
low country on a gently rising broad ridge. It shows a massive
inner wall, but the outer wall, which in places is erected on the
counterscarp of the intervening ditch while in other places it is some
distance from the ditch, is much destroyed. It seems to have had
a walled entrance passage carried from the counterscarp of the
intramural ditch through the outer wall for a distance of 42 feet.
There is no evidence that the roadway crossed the ditch. The
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Chesters, Spott (No. 167), on the summit of a ridge, has been a
fine fort, having two concentric ramparts with a ditch between,
but it has been almost levelled by the plough. Kidlaw fort (No. 259)
is situated on the slope of a hill. On the most vulnerable parts it
is defended by three lines of ramparts, but elsewhere only two are
considered necessary. There are a number of foundations of hut
circles and of a single rectangular enclosure in the interior. While
the Friars Nose fort (No. 219) might have been classed under
the hill-forts, as it is partly protected by steep slopes under the
ramparts and is of an irregular oval shape, it so much resembles
the Kidlaw fort that it may be compared with it. As in the latter,
the ramparts vary in number according to the vulnerability of the
different parts of the fort, which also contains a number of
hut circles as well as the foundation of a rectangular enclosure.
(c) Oval Forts. - Only one fort comes under this head - the Chesters near
Drem (No. 13). It occupies the greater part of a long oval hillock,
the flanks being protected by terraces and ramparts of stone and earth,
while the ends have a more elaborate arrangement of defences. There
are traces in the interior of the foundations of numerous structures
including hut circles.
4. Small defensive constructions possibly of a domestic character. - The two
defences on the ridge Blackcastle Hill, Innerwick (Nos. 88, 89,) have each a single
rampart and ditch, but the latter shows outworks in the shape of four
short banks or redoubts with a ditch on the exterior placed in a line con-
centric with the inner rampart and 22 feet beyond it and lower down the hill.
In the interior are the remains of several hut circles and of a long narrow
curved structure. The defence on the Kingside Rig, Garvald (No. 47) has
features seen on none of the other forts. Besides containing hut circles the
interior is divided into sections by walls running in from the outer wall
as if to form cattle pens. Surrounded by the remains of a stone wall it shows
a ditch only on the most assailable arc. Soonhope Burn enclosure (No. 255)
is also surrounded by a single wall with a ditch outside for part of its circum-
ference, while a large hut circle occupies one corner. The enclosure near
the White Well, Whittinghame (No. 218), with its two concentric earthen
ramparts, differs entirely from the other defensive enclosures. There are no ditches,
and, while the interior is only 48 feet in diameter, the distance between the
ramparts is 64 feet. The entrance is flanked from the outer mound, where it is
20 feet broad, to the inner rampart, which it does not penetrate, contracting to
a breadth of 7 feet in its course. The large enclosure at Townhead of Duncanlaw
(No. 260) is adjacent to if it does not occupy part of the site of an ancient hamlet.
It is probably of much later date than the defensive enclosures described.
Dunpender, Traprain Law. - This site is better described as a fortified hill
than a hill fort. It was known in olden times as Dunpender and earlier as
Dunpelder (cf. Art. No. 148), which may mean " the fort of stockades." Occupying
one of the strongest and most prominent sites in the Lothians, Dunpender is one
of the largest forts in the east of Scotland, the distance between the outer wall on the
north-east and the same wall on the north-west being more than 300 yards.
The outer defence, which has been a fine drystone structure of 6 to 8 feet
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
thick and which is not continued along the precipitous south-eastern flank,
is about 1100 yards in length. That it has been occupied from very early
times is proved by the relics found, and the numerous structural remains and
refuse heaps betoken the presence of a considerable population. There have
been two forts on Traprain, the earlier fort occupying an area much smaller
than that which is enclosed by the more recent ramparts. The wall of the
first fort is different in character from the massive outer wall and encloses a
much smaller area round the summit of the hill. It can only be traced in
parts, and there only the dilapidated facing of the wall is to be seen.
Miscellaneous. - Along the valley of the Whitadder near Millknowe on the
line of the old Herring Road, which crosses the hills from Dunbar to Lauder,
are several large enclosures surrounded by a single earthen rampart, probably
cattle folds or sheep pens for the convenience of drovers passing over these
tracks. Along the steep northern slope of Newlands Hill, Garvald, is a
rampart about 150 yards long with a ditch on the upper side. Towards one
end of the ditch are a number of contiguous hollows excavated in the bottom
of the trench. The Herring Road from Dunbar to Lauder, an old hill track,
can be traced in many places, and on the east side of Spartleton Edge an
excavated road can be traced for some distance following a south-easterly
course. Near these tracks on the Dunbar Common can be seen the earthen
foundations of old cattle folds and human shelters. In many parts of the
Lammermuirs at a considerable elevation, as a rule about the line where the
grass and heather meet and within a few hundred yards of a water supply,
small excavated hollows, oval or circular, generally banked on the lower side
only, occur usually in groups. It is believed that these may be the remains of
shielings or the little structures built to shelter the people in olden days,
when they took their flocks to the hills during the summer. Fine groups are
found on Harelaw (No. 261) and near Johnscleugh. That shielings must have
been very numerous along the northern slopes of the Lammermuirs is seen
in the recurrence of the word in place names of that district such as Stobshiel,
Mayshiel, Penshiel, Gamelshiel and Bransleyshiel.
Very few burials dating to the early Iron Age have been identified in
Scotland. The extensive cemetery of this period discovered at Gullane (No. 30)
the first recognised in the country, was destroyed by a mob after only one
cairn out of at least forty had been examined. Five skeletons were discovered
under a cairn of stones measuring 20 feet in length by 13 feet in breadth.
A spiral bronze finger ring and the blade of an iron knife were found in
the cairn. The short cist burials at Seacliff appear to belong to the early
Iron Age.
There are also cemeteries of a later period, in which the bodies were
buried in an extended position. Where the orientation was noted it was
found to be east and west, implying that they belonged to the Christian
period. No relics were found in the interments, the general practice of
depositing grave goods in the tomb having ceased with the introduction of
Christianity. (cf. p. xiv). Burial grounds of this description have been
discovered at Penicuik, North Berwick, Belhaven near Dunbar, at the junction
of the road 3/4 mile east of Innerwick, at Woodend Stenton, at Nunraw, where
twenty-four graves were uncovered, and at 300 yards north of Lennoxlove
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Castle. Some 40 years ago, in a field lying to the north-east of the hamlet
of Whittinghame, during the absence of the farmer, an extensive burying ground
apparently of this character was torn up by the steam plough, about thirty-
five cart loads of slabs being afterwards removed. The adjoining field on the
east used to be known as the Kirklands.
Many mediaeval kitchen middens have been exposed along the southern
shore of the Forth, at Gullane, Archerfield, at North Berwick and near
Auldhame. These contain many fragments of wheel-turned glazed pottery
and much food refuse in the form of shells and animal bones.
NOTE ON " CASTLES " AND " CHESTERS."
Five forts are known as Castles of which four have a colour name. " Green " and " Black "
castles apparently refer respectively to tree or grass and heath covered land. " White " castle
is to be understood, as in Northumberland, in the sense of " dry open pasture ground in oppo-
sition to woodland and black-land growing heath " (cited in Mawr's Place Names of Northumber-
land and Durham p. 124). Names like Whitefield and Whitehill have had a similar origin.
" Green fort or castle " also translates " Dunglass," so that there may be a question of early
Celtic usage. " Castle " is mediaeval and was applied by the Welsh to a stronghold smaller
than the early caer or din, especially the residence of a tribal chieftain (Y Cymmrodor xi. p. 27).
The name occurs in East Lothian only among the foothills of the Lammermuirs. Three forts
bear the name of Chesters, i.e. Lat. castra. Probably all are later substitutes for British caer
or din, the last apparently preserved in the early " Dentaloune " for Tantallon (cf. No. 106 p. 65).
II.
SECULAR STRUCTURES.
No example of a mediaeval mote castle exists now in the county but late
allusions to such positions are on record. The mote of Gladsmuir ¹ was a
landmark in the seventeenth century. On the south side of the island of
Fidra was the mons castri vocat(us) Tarbet, ² where the first phrase is a common
designation of a castle mote, in this case a natural rocky hillock (cf. Art. 32)
The barony, too, constituted by the lands granted in the context was styled
Tarbet, a further suggestion of the presence of an ancient castle from which the
barony took its name : " Tarbet " is simply Gælic for a portage or land ferry.
What was known in 1220, and still in 1621, ³ as the " old castle " of Eldbottle was
no doubt another structure of this class. From it David I. issued charters, and it
seems to have been a frequent resort of Scottish kings down to Malcolm IV. ⁴ The
name survives, but the precise position of the castle site cannot be determined.
Of stone buildings, other than ecclesiastical, the earliest examples are the
thirteenth century castles of Dirleton (No. 27), Hailes (No. 147) and Yester
(No. 251) all of which however present also much building of dates subsequent
to that time. In each case the plan is mainly determined by the character
of the site, but in general consists of a walled enclosure, having at Dirleton
circular towers with one square tower, all projecting from the line of the
curtain walls ; while at Hailes one great square tower projects into the north-
west angle of the site - the bank above the river - an oblong tower extends
wholly inwards, and no other towers seem to have existed ; the remains
1 " monticuli seu Moitt de Glaidsmuir." Inquisit. Spec. Hadd. Nos. 170, 181.
2 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. 1509 No. 3344. 3 Inquis. Spec. Hadd. No. 93.
4 Early Scottish Charters, p. 329, Nos. lxxviii, clvii.
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[Illustrations inserted]
DIRLETON
YESTER
HAILES
TANTALLON
INNERWICK
ELPHINSTONE
BARNES
FIG. 14. - Block Plans of Representative Castle drawn to uniform scale.
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Ancient and Historical Monuments . -East Lothian
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 15. - Innerwick Castle (No. 87).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 16 .- Tithe Barn, Whitekirk (No. 203).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 17. - Elphinstone Tower (No. 192).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 18. - Whittinghame Castle (No. 213).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 19. - Fenton Tower (No. 107).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 20. - Bankton House (No. 195).
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
of Yester are more fragmentary, but the steep promontory site at the
junction of two streams does not seem to have allowed of the erection of
towers on the line of the curtain, even if such had been thought desirable.
The Goblin Ha' at Yester is a unique feature, so far as Scotland is concerned,
not yet satisfactorily accounted for. It is clear, however (see No. 251) that
there was a thirteenth century structure on this site, and it is possible that
the Goblin Ha' is the only survival of this, with which it would have been
in more direct and obvious relation than it is to the present structure, which
may therefore really be later in origin, as it looks to be. Dunbar Castle
existed from early times but had a chequered history in the matter of de-
struction and reconstruction, so that the scattered fragments left represent
work of relatively late periods (See No. 36).
To the late fourteenth century may be attributed the west range of the
inner buildings at Yester and some details at Hailes. It is impossible to say
how far these early castles suffered from the avowed policy of Robert the Bruce
of destroying such places as might serve as bases for the invading English.
It was thereafter no part of Scottish military policy to maintain strongholds
for resistance in such an event. We know, too, that a castle existed at
Tantallon (No. 106) in 1374 and therefore probably some time earlier, so that
the older parts of the existing remains must be assigned to this period. At
the same time certain of the details, such as the mouldings on some windows
and fireplaces, suggest a later date at least for these features.
All these early buildings have been to some extent worked over and added
to at later times. Both at Tantallon and at Dirleton the entrance has been
lengthened in order to be made more difficult. At Tantallon there is the
special interest of the filling in of internal vacancies in the fore curtain by
James V., which is described in detail by the historian Lindsay of Pitscottie,
and which is easily discernible. A good deal of work was being done about 1538
on behalf of the King towards " the repair and building (edificationem) of the place
of Tomtalloun.¹ " Also in 1543 there was the beginning of a reconstruction
of the 'lodgings' within, so that much building along the north curtain wall must
be of that time. Dirleton was somewhat modified in plan by the erection of the
great house along the thickened eastern wall, and this work appears from details
[Marginal note] later on plan
to be of the early fifteenth century. A sixteenth century erection was placed in
front of the inner face of the earliest buildings to the south, but itself took the place
of a prior building. Yester and Hailes both show structures more or less fragmentary
of fifteenth century work, in the case of Hailes altered in the century following.
The effect of a site in determining the lay out of buildings is well shown
at Innerwick (No. 87), where we have them confined to an upstanding rock
of restricted extent. The surface of this rock is covered with the ruins of
buildings, of which the central mass is the tower assailed by Somerset in 1547,
while immediately before and behind are the relics of later buildings.
Other tower residences of lairds survive in good condition at Lennoxlove
(No. 70), where it is embodied in the modern mansion, at Elphinstone
(No. 192) Preston (No. 156) where the seventeenth century addition has been
imposed within and above the parapet of the older structure, Redhouse (No. 7)
1 Exch. Rolls. xvii p. 120 ; Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. ii p. 403.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Falside (No. 193) and Stoneypath (No. 214). At Redhouse the courtyard
or " barmkin " survives with its gateway and buildings regularly disposed on
two sides ; at Lennoxlove nothing remains of the original enclosure but the
gate. The amount, lay out and general character of the buildings of such
residences depended upon the resources of the owner, but the tower type of
house reluctantly died out in the early part of the seventeenth century.
Little remains of the more loosely disposed buildings about the enclosure at
Garleton (No. 11), while the symmetrically planned mansion at Barnes
(No. 71) of the late sixteenth century seems never to have been completed.
It is on plan a radical departure from the long practised style of Scottish
country residence. Fountainhall (No. 137) is a well-preserved example of a
domestic building from which defensive features have totally disappeared even
as ornament ; several of the rooms still preserve their panelling of Memel pine.
" Bothwell Castle " (No. 72) erroneously so named, is all that remains of what, down
to recent times, had been an excellent specimen of a laird's town house.
Other structures of the class of Fountainhall and of the seventeenth century
are Northfield (No. 159) the Hamilton house (No. 158) Ballencrieff (No. 5)
Bankton (No. 195) and Ruchlaw (No. 217). Winton House (No. 136) is a
large and ornate expansion of a simpler building, with clear evidence of
English influence following upon the union of the kingdoms.
DOVECOTS. - These are numerous, for the county is mainly arable land ;
twenty-five are recorded and there are others of relatively modern date.
Of these may be instanced circular dovecots at Phantassie and Drylawhill, Preston-
kirk, and at Heugh Farm, North Berwick, and a rectangular dovecot at Preston
Mains, Prestonkirk. A circular structure at Bielside, Dunbar, formerly a windmill,
contains a dovecot beneath the modern roof. Of the three early types the first,
single chambered, circular on plan and referable to the 16th century, comprises
the dovecots at Dirleton Castle (No. 27), Congalton (No. 34), Nunraw (No. 45),
Waughton (No. 146), Northfield (No. 159) and Dolphinston (No. 160). The second
type, rectangular on plan and sometimes double chambered, came into use in the
latter part of the 16th century ; to it may be assigned fourteen dovecots, of which
the Dunbar example (No. 42) from its monastic origin, is of interest. At Athel-
staneford (No. 12) and Tranent (No. 196) are dovecots dated respectively
1583 and 1857. In a third category the dovecot is not freestanding but
is a chamber in a house, outbuilding, or church tower, as at Redhouse (No. 7)
Bothwell Castle (No. 72), Pencaitland and Stenton Churches (Nos. 135, 180)
and Tranent (No. 194).
The sixteenth century must have witnessed a great extension of the
building of dovecots, though such conveniences were, of course, much older,
possibly however of a less solid character. In 1503, under James IV., an Act
was passed dealing with these minor sources of food supply and instructing
every lord and laird to lay out parks for deer, orchards, warennes for rabbits
and erect " dowcots." But by 1617 another statute was necessary on account
of " the frequent building of doucottis by all maner of persounes in all the
parts " of the realm, and the privilege was restricted to such as possessed
ten chalders of victual rent adjacent to the dovecot or at least within two
miles of it, but this qualification was to be good for only one dovecot. Since
1424 there were laws against destroyers or breakers of " dow-houses."
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 21. - Luffness (No. 3)
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 22. - Dunbar (No. 42)..
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 23. - Nunraw (No. 45).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 24. - Pilmuir (No. 20).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 25. - Stenton Church (No. 180).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 26. - Tantallon Castle (No. 106).
DOVECOTS.
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
MARKET CROSSES. - Of the market crosses, Preston Cross (No. 161), built
in the early 17th century is most important as being the only cross of rotunda
type which remains in Scotland in situ. Ormiston Cross (No. 134) dates from
the 15th century and is of a more usual type, of which other though later
examples are recorded at Aberlady (No. 8) and Wester Pencaitland (No. 142).
The fragment at Prora (No. 16) may be the remains of a wayside cross.
BRIDGES. - On the Tyne are three 16th century bridges, at East Linton
(No. 151), Abbey (No. 76), and Pencaitland (No. 140) all substantial structures
with stoutly ribbed arch soffits. Linton bridge is nearest the river mouth and
was, from its position, an important nodal point for roads (cf. p. 100). Also
on the Tyne is the Nungate bridge (No. 75), which was built or possibly
renewed in the 17th century. On the Humbie water one bridge (No. 86)
is recorded as of 17th century date.
III.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
Of the twenty-three churches and chapels noticed in this inventory, three,
viz.:- Tynninghame Church (No. 201), St. Martin's Church (No. 69) and
St. Andrews Church (No. 24), date from the 12th century and are sufficiently
complete to enable their plan to be read. They consist of nave and chancel,
both divisions being rectangular and unaisled, but Tynningham had in addition
an apsidal sanctuary. These buildings exhibit the characteristic ornament of
the Romanesque style, fragments of which are also to be found inserted in
the substantially later churches of Garvald (No. 44) and St Giles (No. 130),
while the proportions and plan of Pencaitland Church (No. 135) suggest that
it rests on the foundations of a 12th century structure.
Thirteenth century building is represented in Keith Church (No. 82),
which though roofless is otherwise fairly complete, St. Giles, the church
of Luffness Convent (No. 1), the north-east chapel of Pencaitland, Herd-
manston Chapel (No. 162), the fragment on Fidra Island (No. 26) and
the chancel of Prestonkirk Parish Church (No. 144) ; the last named is in
[Marginal note] Illustration wanted
almost perfect preservation and is architecturally the most important, ex-
hibiting the lancet fenestration and the buttressing typical of its period.
These 13th century churches are or have been rectangular on plan and double
chambered.
Oldhamstocks Parish Church (No. 123) is ostensibly modern, but on its
walling is seen a 14th century basement course, and its plan, like that of
Pencaitland, is an oblong with a centred western tower, which suggests that
the foundations may be mediæval. St. Mary's Haddington (No. 68) dating
from c. the end of the 14th century is the greatest and the only aisled church.
It is the earliest example extant of the fully developed cruciform plan. The
gables are high, the aisles low ; the bay design is bipartite without triforium.
The crossing is surmounted by a massive tower, which in design terminated
in a " crown " spire. St. Mary's is the only church dealt with which exhibits
structural rib vaulting, although at Seton, it is true, there are ribs in the
vaulting of the apse.
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Slightly later than St. Mary's follow the three 15th century collegiate
churches of Seton (No. 191), Bothans (No. 250) and Dunglass (No. 124), all
of which were laid out on a cruciform plan unaisled ; but Seton and Bothans
are without naves. Barrel vaulting is employed in all divisions, but at Seton
the eastern termination is groined and ribbed. Seton and Dunglass have
towers above the crossing. The parish church of Whitekirk (No. 200), also
cruciform on plan, and the tower of Aberlady Parish Church (No. 2) are of the
same century, which date too may be assigned to the fragment of St. John's
(No. 9) at Drem.
Post-Reformation work is represented by the Parish Church of Stenton
(No. 180), portions of Pencaitland, the eastern burial aisle of Oldhamstocks,
the porch of St. Andrews Church, North Berwick (No. 103), and the parish
[Marginal note] Dirleton
churches of North Berwick (No. 102) and Gladsmuir (No. 64).
MONASTIC HOUSES. - The Cistercian nunneries are represented only by the
fragment of a residentiary range at North Berwick (No. 104) ; the great house
at Haddington has totally disappeared.
Of the establishments of Friars remains are but scanty. That of the
Carmelites or White Friars at Luffness has been reduced to little more than
the foundations of the church, with some details, and of parts of the ad-
joining buildings, not sufficient to determine the general plan. Of the Trini-
tarians or Red Friars of Dunbar (No. 42) survives only the central oblong
tower of the church, a well-known feature of some friar churches, which has
been adapted as a dovecot.
BELLS. - The one pre-Reformation bell remaining in East Lothian hangs
in the parish church of Yester (No. 249) ; it is dated 1492 and was probably
cast in an Edinburgh foundry. Other bells cast in Edinburgh are at Keith
Marischal (No. 82) and at North Berwick (No. 117) ; the first by George
Hog in 1620, the latter by James Monteith in 1642. Also of native manu-
facture is the bell at Pencaitland, dated 1638. Seton church contains a
Dutch bell cast by Adriæn Steylært in 1577, and at Bolton church there is
another (No. 23) made by Michael Burgherhuys in 1618, while the bell of
Morham church (No. 98), dated 1681, is probably also of Dutch origin.
COMMUNION CUPS. - No chalices of pre-Reformation date survive in the
county, though there had been the usual full equipment of such vessels
(cf. No. 68). Communion cups of seventeenth century date, most of them towards
the end of the century, are at Haddington (1645, the earliest), Aberlady,
Athelstaneford, (the latest, 1698), Dunbar (four 1657), Prestonkirk (four),
Prestonpans (inscribed " Saltprestown "), Whittinghame ; while at Stenton are two
of London origin dated 1703-4. They are generally of the contemporary type,
an elongated bowl upon a baluster stem with spreading base ; one at North
Berwick, however, has a flatter and wider bowl of the " maser " class.
The vessels have been bought or presented, and several have the Edinburgh
hall-mark. The cup at North Berwick referred to above is inscribed as
gifted by " Mrs. Barbara Young relict of Archbald (sic) Douglas somtime
Captain of Tomtallan 1670," but on the base is the Edinburgh hall-mark
between two G's for George Crawford, who was deacon of the Incorporation
of the Goldsmiths at several times between 1615 and 1635. The later date
on the bowl refers to work done on the vessels about that time. ¹
1 Cf. Old Scottish Communion Plate, Rev. Thomas Burns.
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG, 27. - South Transept, Seton (No. 191).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 28. - Choir, Seton (No. 191).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 29. - Bothans (No. 250).
PISCINAE.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 30. - Keith Marischal (No. 82).
[Picture inserted]
FIG.31. - Yester Parish Church (No. 249).
BELLS.
To face p. xlvi. |
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[Note] Anglian cross-shaft from Aberlady , now at Carlowie Castle , see West Lothian Inventory. No 350.
INVENTORY
OF THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND
CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF EAST LOTHIAN
OR HADDINGTON ASSIGNED TO A DATE BEFORE 1707
(The Monuments are grouped in their parishes, and the parishes are in
alphabetical order. The Roman numerals with letters at the end of each
article give the O.S. map on the 6-inch scale on which the position of the
subject of the article may be found. The date is that of the visit upon
which the account is based.)
ABERLADY.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
1. Luffness Convent. - The remains of an
establishment of Carmelite Friars¹ are situated
within the policies of Luffness House equi-
distant 1/4 mile from the House and the village
of Aberlady. The foundations of the church
can be discerned, but the conventual
buildings have almost entirely disappeared.
About 100 yards to the north-north-east of
the church are the remains of two fishponds, and
100 yards farther in the same direction is a
fragment of building, now incorporated in a
boundary wall.
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 32 .- Church, Luffness Convent (No. 1).
The church (fig. 32) was an oblong structure,
orientated and unaisled, comprising nave and
choir both apparently contained beneath one
roof. The eastern portion of the choir is ele-
vated to form a sanctuary 11 1/2 feet in length.
From the north wall of the choir there projected
a sacristy, which can be traced for only some
few feet of its east and west walls. At the
angles of the church two buttresses are placed
at right angles to each other. On the east gable
there is a central buttress, and on the west
gable are two intermediate buttresses. A
splayed basement course returns around the
gables and the buttresses, except at the south-
west angle, where the course abuts on the
buttress projecting westwards. The gables are
3 feet thick ; the lateral walls 2 feet 4 inches.
Traces of other buildings can be seen on the
north and south of the church.
The nave, which is 20 feet 2 inches wide and
43 feet 8 inches long is separated from the
choir by a pulpitum 2 feet 9 inches thick. The
choir is the same width as the nave and is
48 feet 7 inches long. The doorway in the north
wall opening into the sacristy had a pointed
arched head. The sanctuary is elevated on two
steps above the level of nave and choir, the
lower step being 6 inches east of the sacristy
door.
EFFIGY. - In the north wall of the sanctuary
is an arched tomb recess containing a much
weathered effigy of a knight, 6 feet 6 inches
in length by 2 feet 4 inches broad, wearing a
surcoat over armour apparently of mail and
having a heater shaped shield inclined to the
left. At present lying on the effigy is a frag-
ment of masonry, which is circled on its upper
surface and wrought within the circle in flutes
to resemble a six pointed rowel 1 1/4 feet in
diameter. A very similar object in Bodmin
Church, Cambridgeshire, is a piscina.
MONUMENTAL SLAB. - In the centre of the
sanctuary is a mutilated 15th century monu-
mental slab 7 feet by 4 feet bearing a patriar-
chal cross on a step. On the uppermost arm
is inscribed I N R I ; below the lower arm a
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ABERLADY.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [ABERLADY.
shield is planted on the shaft bearing on a
chevron a rose between two lions counter-
combatant - the Hepburn arms. Around the
edge of the stone is the inscription in Gothic
characters : . . . HONORABILIS VIR KENT-
IGERNUS HEPBURN . . . DE WAUCHTOUN.
In the sanctuary and in the angles of the
nave are traces of paving. The structure dates
from the end of the 13th century.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - The Carmelites or White
Friars were constituted as a mendicant order in
1264. They wore a white cappa or cloak over
a brown tunic &c., whence the descriptive
name. The friars of Luffness (fratres de Lufnok)
had a grant in alms of ten marks annually
from Luffness estate, which grant, in 1335-6,
was said to be ancient. ² At this date the land
of " Lufnok " was in the hands of Edward III.
of England by his forfeiture of John de " Bikir-
toun." ³ On its transference to the Hepburns in
the fifteenth century and Kentigern Hepburn
see No. 3. The tomb noted above was said
(1723) to be of one of the Bickertons . .
"commonly called Lord Bickerton" ⁴ - but there
was no such title. According to James Miller
(1844) " the statue of a man as large as life,
with a shield on his breast " went by the name
of " Friar Bickerton." ⁵
The lands and buildings " ad lie Carmelit
Freiris " of Luffness were granted in feu farm
in 1609 to Robert Hepburn junior in Over
Hailes but nine years later to Patrick Hepburn
of Waughton. ⁶
1 Scotichronicon, ii., p. 540 ; Reg. Mag.
Sig., i., p. 606 ; 2 Cal. Docts. iii., p. 338 ;
3 Ibid ; 4 Macfarlane, Geog. Colls. i., p. 374 ;
5 Lamp of Lothian, p. 122 note ; 6 Reg. Mag.
Sig. s.a.
iv. N.E. Convent (Carmelite Friars). 3
July, 1913.
2. Aberlady Parish Church .- This church is
situated at the western extremity of the village,
overlooking Aberlady Bay. The tower at the
western end (fig. 33) is a 15th century con-
struction 18 feet square on plan ; it rises
unbroken, save for a projecting string-course,
to an intake 30 feet above the ground. Ten
feet above this it terminates in a corbel course
supporting a plain stone parapet, within which
it is roofed with a slated pyramidal spire. The
ground floor is vaulted and this and the two
intermediate floors are lit by narrow slits ;
the fourth floor has two-light windows with
semicircular heads and modern mullions. The
walls are 3 feet 6 inches thick.
The two burial aisles on the north were
built c. late 16th and early 17th century.
The north windows imitative of " plate "
tracery are of some interest. The empty panel
space above a door in the eastern aisle may not
belong to this structure but to Kilspindie
Tower (No. 4).
In the Statistical Account, vi., p. 548 it is
recorded that the church was built in 1773
replacing an older building 100 feet in length,
16 1/2 feet in breadth and between 10 and 11 feet
in height with walls partially built of mud. The
later structure in its turn has been restored
within recent years and is in use and in good
condition.
MONUMENT. - To the east of the church
within the graveyard is an elaborate free-
standing monument of the 17th century, de-
signed in the Renaissance style.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - The lands of Aberlady,
including the church, belonged to the bishop
of Dunkeld. In 1454 all the lands south of the
Forth possessed by that bishop were incor-
porated in the barony of Aberlady - these lands
being Aberlady, Preston, Cramond and Aber-
corn. ¹ Bishop Thomas Lauder (1452-76)
erected the vicarage into a prebend of the
cathedral church ² and in 1469 granted, with
the consent of his chapter, 6 merks annually
from the prebend for the support of chorister
boys in the cathedral, a grant confirmed by
James III. in 1472. ³ There was a chapel
dedicated to the B. V. Mary within the ceme-
tery of the parish church. ⁴
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. No. 600 ; 2 Rentale
Dunkeldense, p. 337 ; 3 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a.
No. 1056 ; 4 Inquis. Spec. i. Hadd. No. 1.
iv. N.E. (unnoted). 2 June 1914.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
3. Luffness House. - The mansion of Luffness
stands within wooded policies at the mouth of
the Peffer burn on the shore of Aberlady Bay,
and commands an extensive prospect of the
Firth of Forth. On plan the structure is
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Ancient and Historical Monuments. - East Lothian
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 33. - Tower, Aberlady Church (No. 2).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 34. - Porch and Tower, Whitekirk (No. 200).
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ABERLADY.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [ABERLADY.
T-shaped and consists of an oblong block
lying east and west, measuring externally 70 1/2
feet by 28 feet, with a square tower containing
a wheel-stair projecting externally from the
centre of the south wall. While the plan of
the northern portion of the main block is
reminiscent of late 15th century work the
surviving portions of the early building are of
a century later, having been built by Sir Patrick
Hepburn in 1584. Sir Patrick's building has,
in its turn, been extended and added to within
modern times.
The masonry is of uncoursed rubble free-
stone dressings, moulded and wrought with a
quirked edge roll at the window jambs and
ornamented with the cable and billet ornaments
on the corbelling, which supports a turret pro-
jecting at eaves level from the south-west angle.
A corresponding turret on the north-east and a
turret-staircase within the east re-entering angle
rest on moulded corbels without enrichment.
The main block contains three storeys beneath
the wall head and an attic within the roof.
As is usual, the main staircase, which is spacious,
is not carried up the full height of the tower
containing it but terminates at second floor
level, and access from this to the attic floor is
provided by the turret-staircase. The cor-
belling supporting this turret is reinforced by
a squinch arch, bridging the angle. The
building is now entered from a doorway
slapped through the east gable, but was
originally entered through the renaissance door-
way in the west re-entering angle, against
which a modern wing has been built. The old
entrance opened on the stair foot and passed
through the south wall into a passage giving
access to a chamber at either end, the northern
being the kitchen, as shown by the large fire-
place in the south gable ; between these
chambers are two smaller ones also entered off
the passage. These apartments are all ceiled
with semi-circular barrel vaults. In the N.E.
angle of the basement of the nucleus is a stone
basin and drain 6 feet above the present floor
level.
On the first floor there have been originally
two intercommunicating apartments, the west
of which has been shortened by the formation
of a passage at its northern end. The east
chamber has several mural closets formed
within the thickness of the walls. This arrange-
ment of rooms appears to have been repeated
on the two upper floors, but partitions and
passages have been inserted at a later period.
The building has been considerably altered ex-
ternally, windows have been enlarged and
chimneys heightened. The only defensive pro-
visions are the gunloops in the staircase tower
and angle turrets. The structure is inhabited
and is in excellent repair
DOOR, c. 17th CENTURY. - An oak door,
studded with bolts, taken from Kilspindie
Castle is re-hung in the upper part of the
staircase at Luffness.
ARMORIAL STONES. ETC. - (a) On the south
west turret is a panel probably not in situ
containing the initials S.P.H. and I.H. (Sir
Patrick Hepburn and his wife , " Issobelle
Halden ") ¹ and underneath, the date 1584.
(b) On a modern addition on the south is
an old stone bearing three shields, one and two,
all very decayed. The upper shield, below a
mitre, appears to be charged with three boars'
heads erased : the lower dexter with a chevron.
The shields together give the Elphinstone arms.
(c) Another stone is inserted in the modern
wing built within the south-west re-entering
angle. It bears a shield flanked by ladies
symbolising Hope and charged per pale, dexter
a bezant below a chevron ; sinister quarterly,
1st and 4th, a saltire below three cushions in
chief, 2nd and 3rd, an anchor : a Hope-
Johnstone marriage. The first Earl of Hopeton
(Hope) bought Luffness in 1739. The south-
west skew-put of this wing is an old stone
re-used ; it is inscribed S P H : E H (see above)
DOVECOT. - One hundred yards east of the
house is a fine 16th century dovecot, circular
on plan and rising in three stages to a wall-head
cornice enriched with a billet ornament (fig. 21).
SUNDIALS. - (a) On a corbel projecting from
an addition is a 17th century dial formed of
a cube of freestone and initialled DR and MH.
The dial is placed on the outer face. Human
figures are carved on the sides, and the whole
is surmounted by a crudely executed head
wearing a conical cap with a star in front.
CIST COVERS. - Two stone slabs 3 feet 8
inches long, 1 foot 9 inches broad and 5 inches
thick lie in the kitchen garden. They are
presumed to be covers of cists, of which three
were found beneath the floor of the entrance
hall.
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ABERLADY.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [ABERLADY.
FORTIFICATIONS. - Round the house at a
short distance are the relics of a considerable
ditch and regularly drawn mounds, the lines
of which may be seen in the plan given as Fig. 35
These probably represent the camp raised by
the French commander De Thermes in the
summer of 1549 to block English supplies to
[Marginal note]
[Diurnal of Occurents].
p.48.
their garrison at Haddington. ² In January
1552 the fort of Aberlady was ordered by the
Queen-Regent and the lords to be delivered to
Patrick Hepburn of Wauchton to be cast down
and destroyed, " except the housis and man-
sioun thereof " ; the artillery to be taken to
Dunbar, the mansion and houses to be 'enjoyed'
by Patrick as his heritage, as his father had
done before him. ³ Macfarlane in 1723 speaks
of " some old fortifications viz. four bastions
and two Fusnes (sic) " i.e. fosses or ditches. ⁴
HISTORICAL NOTE. - On the early history of
Luffness and the family of Bickerton see No. 1
and Introd. p. xx.
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 35. - Earthworks, Luffness (No. 3).
There was a 13th
century castle. ⁵ In
1451 Robert de Byk-
kirtoune lord of
' Lufnois ' granted
half the lands, but
not the castle or head
messuage, to Patrick
Hepburn of Waugh-
ton, ⁶ and in 1464
William de Bekir-
toune, son and heir
of Robert, with his
father's consent,
conveyed the re-
mainder including
the head messuage,
to the same Hep-
burn in exchange for lands elsewhere. ⁷ David
Hepburn of Waughton in 1498 transferred the
barony of Waughton and that of Luffness to
his son and heir Kentigern. ⁸ (cf. No. 1).
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. No. 250 ; 2 Cf. Illus-
trations of the Reign of Queen Mary p. 37 ;
Balfour's Annales i. p. 296 ; 3 Reg. P.C. i.
p. 119 ; 4 Geog. Colls. i. p. 374 ; 5 Cal. Docts.
ii. Nos. 857, 1986 ; 6 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. No.
438 ; 7 Ibid, No. 782 ; 8 Ibid, No. 2455.
iv N.E. 3 July 1913.
4. Kilspindie Castle. - The ruin of this castle
lies 200 yards north of the Parish Church of
Aberlady within the glebe. The remains are
fragmentary and consist of some 33 feet of the
north wall, which is nowhere higher than 7 feet,
containing the entrance and a gunloop, and the
return of the west wall. The north wall is
2 feet 4 inches thick and the return of the west
wall 3 feet 9 inches thick.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - In 1561 it is recorded
that " Aberlady teind and ferme (i.e. rent) wes
set of auld to Archibald Douglas of Kilspindie" ¹
Aberlady was the property of the bishopric of
Dunkeld and in 1612 there is a royal con-
firmation of a grant of these lands by the
bishop with consent of his chapter, to Alexander
Hay, Clerk-Register, including " the castell
toure and fortalice biggit be Patrick Douglas
of Kilspindie upon the north part of the saidis
landis of Abirladie towards the sey" ; and of
infeftments by Hay in favour of Patrick
Douglas, junior son of the builder of the
tower and son-in-law to Hay. ² The tower is
therefore of a date in the later part of the 16th
century.
1 Rental. Dunkeld. p. 345 ; 2 Act. Parl. Scot.
iv., p. 501.
iv. N.E. 2 June 1913.
5. Ballencrieff House. - Ballencrieff House
occupies a level site 1 3/4 miles south-east of
Aberlady village, immediately south of the
railway. The structure was erected in the
early 17th century and added to in the 18th
century. A disastrous fire about the end of
last century gutted the building, which has
since been allowed to lapse into its present
desolate condition. On plan (fig. 36) the
mansion is oblong with its major axis lying
approximately east and west ; the south-
western portion is the original 17th century
structure and contained three storeys beneath
its wall head with an attic storey lit by dormer
windows in the roof. The ground floor con-
tains a kitchen on the east with a wide arched
fireplace in its west wall, the kitchen communi-
cating by a corridor with the original entrance
and two vaulted cellars. The stonework of
one dormer is still in situ ; the pediment is
triangular and bears the initials D E D (Dame
Elizabeth Dundas, second wife of Sir Patrick
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ABERLADY.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [ABERLADY.
Murray 1st Lord Elibank) and below the date
1625.
In the 18th century wings were added on the
north and east making the total area occupied
by the structure 46 feet from N. to S. by
92 3/4 from E. to W. ; the central portion of the
north façade containing the entrance is given a
slight projection to relieve the monotony of
the elevation. The additions contain the same
number of storeys as the original structure,
but the wall head on the south, where the
division between the original and later work is
most noticeable, is some 2 feet higher. Several
of the features of this later portion are well
designed, in particular a fine three-light classic
window in the south wall of a large apartment
on the second floor and the plaster panelling
in several apartments.
Over the porch of an adjoining dwelling is
built a carved stone from the old house bearing
a shield charged with a fetterlock and three
mullets on a chief, for Murray of Blackbarony.
Flanking the shield are the initials I M (John
Murray) in monogram. Above is a defective
motto on a label -
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 36. - Ballencrieff House (No. 5).
[DE]VM: TIME "Fear
God " and below
the shield is a date
somewhat defaced,
in which the second
figure, though re-
sembling a 9, must,
to suit the name,
be the old form of
5, giving 1586.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - John Murray of Black-
barony (Shire of Peebles) had a grant of lands
&c. in the royal domain of Ballencrieff with the
office of baillie in 1511. ¹ Sir John Murray of
Blackbarony was coroner of Peebles in 1595.
Sir Gideon Murray, father of the 1st Lord
Elibank, acquired the Ballencrieff lands from
his nephew in 1617, and these were thereupon
erected into the barony of Ballencrieff. ²
1 Reg. M. Sig. (1424 -1513) No. 3643.
2 Scots Peerage iii., p. 504.
v. S.W. 27 June 1912.
6. Ballencrieff Granary. - On the east of the
farm steading of Ballencrieff and 250 yards
south-south-west of the old mansion is a
building L-shaped on plan and two storeys in
height (fig. 37). The structure is built of rubble
with freestone dressings and the roof is pan-
tiled. The main block measures exteriorly 60
feet from west-south-west to east-north-east,
has a breadth of 22 feet 8 inches and contains
three apartments used as stables. The wing
measures 26 feet by 20 1/2 feet and is now occu-
pied as a dwelling. The doorways and windows,
several of which are built up, have a splay
wrought on the jambs and lintels. There has
been no internal com-
munication between
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 37 .- Ballencrieff Granary (No. 6).
the ground and the
upper floor ; access to
the latter has been
obtained from a
ladder. On the south
wall, above the door-
way of the upper
storey and below the
eaves, the stone
weather table above three corbels indicates the
former existence of a penthouse. Three of the
six skewputs have shields bearing arms:- N.E.
main block : Three cinquefoils below a star.
S.E. wing : A Greek or equal-armed cross.
mid skewput, west wall : A saltire.
There was an hospital at Ballencrieff in the
13th century, dedicated to St. Cuthbert. ¹ The
above mentioned structure, though dating from
the 16th century, is apparently one of the
buildings connected with it.
1 Calendar of Docts. ii. p. 227.
v. S.W. 27 June 1913.
7. Redhouse. - On a rocky knoll immediately
south of the road from Longniddry to Drem
and 1 1/4 miles E.N.E. of Longniddry Station,
the ruined mansion of Redhouse stands within
the walls of its park, which is now a market
garden. The house forms the northern side
of a quadrangular courtyard (fig. 38) that is
bounded on the east by a range of outbuilding
and on the south and west by boundary walls.
The courtyard is entered from the south (fig.
39) through a wide gateway (late 16th century),
with a semi-circular head round which returns
a roll-and-hollow moulding that continues down
the jambs ; the detail of the moulding in-
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ABERLADY.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [ABERLADY.
dictates that the wall, which is built of rubble,
was harled. Over the gateway five projecting
corbels suggest that the entrance was sur-
mounted by a little gatehouse, as at Hills
Castle, Kirkcudbrightshire, Kirkc. Inventory,
No. 330, which projected outwardly on the
corbels and was borne on the sturdy segmental
scoinson arch. The eastern outbuildings con-
sist of a range of vaulted cellars with, formerly,
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 38. - Redhouse (No. 7).
an upper storey within a very steeply pitched
roof. Two of the cellars retain their barrel-
vaulted ceilings, but the timber roof above has
been reconstructed with a less acute pitch,
making the range one-storeyed. The southern
cellar, however, still retains its upper storey,
which is two chambered and is the dove-cot ;
each of these chambers was entered from a
doorway in the south wall reached by a mov-
able ladder, but the western door had been
built up and an access latterly formed in the
mid-partition between the two chambers. The
nests are of stone, as is usual. The stone roof
is constructed with a continuous corbel-table
projecting inwardly from the north and south
walls and surmounted by flagstones canti-
levered until the void is spanned, but the
usual circular opening for ingress and egress
of the birds is left. Around the south, east and
west walls an unmoulded stringcourse and
a cavetto moulded eaves course return ; the
gables are stepped. The doorway in the west
wall of the courtyard and that of the cellarage
of the east range have good Scotch renaissance
moulded architraves c. 17th century.
The house is of at least two periods, but no
great length of time has intervened between
these. To the earlier period (c. late 16th
century) may be ascribed the oblong wing
fronting the courtyard on the north, while the
remainder of the building is evidently an early
17th century addition. This is L-shaped and
lies north of the original portion (fig. 40).
Throughout, the walling is of warm coloured
rubble partially of freestone ; the lower and
all the earlier windows have dressed and
rounded jambs and lintels, half grooved for
glazing. The later windows on the upper floors,
the south doorway, the string courses on the
north and west fronts and the corbelling of
the angle turrets which project from the
north-west and north-east angles and the
north-east re-entering angle are of dressed and
moulded light coloured freestone.
The south front is four storeys in height to
the wall-head, above which was an attic lit by
dormer windows, but the walls at the south-
east angle are carried higher, providing apart-
ments over the wheel-stair. The north front
is more richly treated ; a moulded string course
returns at the level of the turret upper corbel
courses and a second at attic floor level. The
corbelling of the north-west turret has numerous
and delicate members, while that of the others
is simple and massive, yet the turrets have
undoubtedly been built at the same time c.
1600.
The ground being higher on the north, the
north doorway enters the building at first floor
level and a scale staircase leads down to the
apartments at courtyard level. The detail of
the west elevation is similar to that of the
north frontage. The two-light dormer window
on this elevation is worthy of note. It has
moulded jambs and a triangular pediment with
raking cornice. In the tympanum is a weather-
worn shield flanked by the initials R. D. On
a skewput immediately to the south are the
initials M. I. L. These are for Master John
Laing and Rebecca Dennistoun, his wife. ¹
From the east gable of the house a range of
outbuilding with vaulted cellars on the base-
ment floor returned eastward and abutted on
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 39. - From the South.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 40. - From the South-West.
Photographed by J. S. Richardson).
REDHOUSE (No. 7).
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 41. - Redhouse (No. 7).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 42. - Pencaitland Church (No. 135).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 43. - Fountainhall (No. 137).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 44. - Whittinghame (No. 213).
DOORWAYS.
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ABERLADY ] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [ATHELSTANEFORD.
the eastern range. These are represented only
by the lower courses of the north wall.
The building is to-day entered through the
fine Renaissance doorway on the south (fig.
41), which has moulded jambs, lintel and cor-
nice. On the lintel is carved in raised letters
M I L NISI . DOMINVS . FRUSTRA . R D with a
cinquefoil balancing the two first initials. The
initials have been explained above. At either
end of the cornice is a lumpy finial, which flanks
a moulded panel space supported by trusses ;
the panel is greatly destroyed and appears to
be inverted ; the charge is three piles conjoined
in point. Above the panel is a raking and
broken cornice with a mid-finial ; in the
tympanum are repeated the initials M I L R D ,
the first three in monogram and flanked by
the other two. The doorway enters at the foot
of a wide wheel-stair, behind which, on the north,
is a small chamber, and on the west the kitchen
with large fireplace and flue in the west gable
and an aumbry recess in the north jamb of the
fireplace. North of the kitchen is a gallery
with a barrel-vaulted roof lit by shafts in the
north haunch of the vault, and on the west
a scale stair leads down from the north entrance
to the kitchen level ; beneath the stair is a
vaulted cellar. A similar arrangement of
apartments is found on each of the floors.
It is worth noting that only the three lower
floors of the north gallery and the cellar under
the stair are vaulted; the remaining apartments
have been ceiled in wood. The support of the
scoinson arches of the two-light window on the
second floor of the west wing by a heavy corbel
is characteristically Scottish. The walls in-
ternally have been plastered " on the hard."
DIMENSIONS. - The total area covered by the
mansion and its courtyard measures 100 feet
from N. to S. by 106 feet from E. to W. The
oldest portion of the house measures 22 feet
from N. to S. by 45 feet from E. to W.
The building is in a very ruinous state and
urgently requires attention.
FIREPLACE. - Within the neighbouring house
of the tenant is a fine 17th century fireplace
with moulded jambs and lintel, the outer
moulding being enriched with a curious and
rudimentary egg-and-dart ornament. The fire-
place is stated to have been removed from
Redhouse, but the fireplaces there are quite
unlike this example, having merely rounded
jambs and lintels, and in any case seem
complete.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - The lands of " Eister
Spittell " or " Eister Reidspittell " or Red-
house came to John Laing, keeper of the
royal signet and Rebecca Dennistoun his
spouse, by purchase from the superior David
Lindsay of Balcarres at the instigation and
with the consent of Sir George Douglas of
Redhouse and his heir ; the royal confirmation
to the charter is dated 1607. In 1612 there is
a ratification of an instrument of sasine granted
in 1608 by the late John Laing of " Spittellis "
conferring the property on Sir Andrew Hamilton
of Redhouse and Lady Jeanne Layng his wife,
daughter and heiress of John Laing, Hamilton
being a judge or " senator of the Supreme
Court." In 1621 a charter of novodamus of
the lands of Easter Spittal otherwise Easter
Redspittal " with the manor (called Red-
house)" erected the whole estate into the free
barony of Reidhouse and single sasine was given
apud turrim et maneriem de Reidhouse. ¹
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. Nos. 1990, 778, 204.
iv. S.E. 23 March 1920.
MISCELLANEOUS.
8. Aberlady Market Cross. - The cross stands
on the north side of the village street ; it
consists of a square sectioned shaft 6 feet in
length and 10 inches in diameter inserted in
a plinth 2 feet 3 inches square and 1 foot 11
inches high resting on a graduated base of
four tiers 3 feet 8 inches in height with a
maximum diameter of 9 feet 1 inch. The
shaft has been renewed.
The Cross is illustrated in Small's Scottish
Market Crosses, Plate 75.
iv. N.E. 2 June 1913.
ATHELSTANEFORD.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
9. "St. John's Chapel." - In the garden west
of Drem house are the ruins of a small chapel
" called St. John's Chapel, which belonged to
the Knights Templars." ¹ The building has
measured over walls 43 feet from east to west
and 21 feet from north to south. A portion
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ATHELSTANEFORD] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [ATHELSTANEFORD
of the east gable can be traced in the garden
wall. The west gable, ivy-clad, stands complete
(fig. 45). In it are two windows with sills at
different levels and at a considerable height
from the ground. The northern window is a
two-light lancet with daylights 7 to 8 inches
wide. The mullion is wanting. The southern
window is a semicircular headed single light
some 3 feet 6 inches wide. These windows
have a splay worked on the jamb and appear
to be insertions. The lateral walls no longer
exist. A doorway with a
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 45. - St. John's Chapel (No. 9).
semicircular head is built
into the garden wall to
the north. It is 3 feet
1 inch wide and 6 feet
10 inches high. A small
splay is worked on the
jamb.
The chapel is built of
whin and rubble with
freestone dressings and was probably erected
in the 15th century. The windows and door as
above mentioned appear to belong to a later
period.
1 Statistical Account vol. x. p. 175.
v. N.W. 27 May 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
10. "Priests House." - In a park to the south-
east of Drem house there has been a dwelling
of considerable size. All that now remains is
a large ingle-neuk, measuring 9 feet 4 inches
by 6 feet 4 inches internally, which projected
from the western gable, as was common in the
17th century. There are several of these ingles
in the Lothians. The present structure is some
20 feet high. On plan at base it measures
externally 10 feet by 13 feet 6 inches, dimin-
ishing in area, as it ascends, by means of
offsets and terminating in a square flue. On
the ground floor are small windows in the
north and west walls and cupboards in the
north and south walls. It has been ceiled at
the level of the first offset. This ceiling would
contain an aperture to allow smoke to escape.
The opening to the interior of the dwelling has
been built up. The walls are 2 feet to 2 feet
6 inches in thickness.
v. N.W. 27 June 1913.
11. Garleton Castle. - Garleton Castle lies
about 2 miles south of Drem Station at the
northern base of Craigy Hill in the Garleton
Hills range. Apparently it comprised an
oblong enclosure, about 1/3 of an acre in area,
containing a house with a jamb or small wing
at the north-east corner and two little lodges
set at the western ends of the north and south
boundary walls (fig. 46).
The house was at least three storeys in
height. The lengths of the main block and wing
were 50 and 42 feet,
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 46 .- Garleton Castle (No. 11).
the widths are indeter-
minate ; at the south-
east angle of the wing
a circular tower, 22 feet
in diameter, is salient
to the enclosure. It is
provided with gunloops.
Of the house there
remain only the north
and east lateral walls
with indications of the
west gable and interior
partitions. All that
can be said of its arrangement is that in
the basement were three vaulted cellars within
the main block, that the western was the
kitchen and that the oncome of the fireplace
vent can still be traced. The staircase seems
to have been a turnpike built within the east
wall. A forestair built external to the enclosure
at the north-east angle, is secondary. The
masonry is irregularly coursed rubble with
dressings at voids.
The south-west lodge is oblong on plan and
is two storeys in height ; the upper floor is
now reached from a forestair on the north,
which appears to have superseded an internal
circular staircase contained within a projecting
turret on the south. The ground floor contains
two vaulted chambers, which originally com-
municated with each other. The western
chamber, now a smithy, has traces of a large
arched fireplace in the mid-partition. The
eastern chamber has a fireplace in the south-
west angle, with a hood supported on corbels
one of which is in situ. The walls are pierced
by gunloops on the south and west. The upper
floor is converted into farm labourers' dwellings.
The corresponding fore-building on the north
is modern but appears to occupy the site of
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ATHELSTANEFORD] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [ATHELSTANEFORD
a building contemporaneous with that on the
south. Three old gunloops are built into the
west wall.
The castle has apparently been erected in the
16th century.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - On the Garleton lands
see Introd. p. xxvii. Apparently this was the
successor of the house with lands of Easter
Garleton or Garmylton-Noble ¹ owned by Sir
John Towers of Inverleith, from whom the
third Earl of Winton bought half of Athel-
staneford, conferring Garleton upon his fourth
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 47. - The Chesters, Drem (No. 13).
son, Sir John Seton, Bart., of Garleton, origi-
nator of that branch of the Seton family.
1 See R.M.S. (1489) No. 1908.
v. S.W. 26 June 1913.
12. Dovecot. - Within a field north of the
parish manse is a dovecot 15 1/2 feet square and
some 25 feet in height, which is built in three
stages of irregularly coursed freestone and
covered with a lean-to roof. On the lintel of
the doorway in the west wall is inscribed in
relief, within a panel, the initials G H and the
date 1583.
v. S.E. 30 June 1912.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
13. Fort, The Chesters, Drem. - Some 3/4 mile
south-south-west of Drem Station, at an
elevation of over 200 feet above sea-level and
overlooking the plain stretching northwards to
the Forth, is a narrow ridge, steep on the sides
but sloping more gently towards the ends.
About 50 yards to the south is a sharp bluff,
which overtops it by more than 50 feet. The
ridge, which rises from 40 to 50 feet above the
general level, runs east and west, and is occupied
by a fine fort, oval on plan, measuring about
390 feet in length and 160 feet in breadth
internally (fig. 47). It is defended by an elab-
orate series of ramparts of stone and earth
erected on the slopes of the ridge ; these are
well preserved at the west end (fig. 13) but
much dilapidated on the flanks and at the
eastern extremity. The defences consist of two
ramparts entirely encircling the fort with
further external lines of walling, which vary in
number at different parts. Outside the two
inner walls are three others on the northern
flank, one on the southern flank, five short
mounds across the western end, and to the
east a series of short curvilinear breastworks
(fig. 48). Thus there are five lines of defence to
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ATHELSTANEFORD] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [ATHELSTANEFORD
the north, covering a distance of about 180 feet
in width, three to the south over a space of
95 feet and seven at the east and west ends.
There are two entrances, from the north-west
and from the east. The north-west entrance is
carried diagonally through the outer defences
in a south-easterly direction till it meets the
second wall from the inside, where it turns
sharply to the south between an overlap
in this defence, at which place the roadway is
14 feet wide ; it turns east and enters the
interior through a gap in the inner wall 16 feet
wide. The eastern entrance is along the
gradually sloping crest of the ridge ; its width
where it passes the second inner wall is
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 48. - The Chesters, Drem, Sections (No. 13).
15 feet. In the interior of the fort traces of the
foundations of a large number of circular stone
buildings remain. They vary in size from 15
to 40 feet in diameter and occur chiefly along
the inside of the inner wall. In the New
Statistical Account of the parish it is stated,
for a time (1835) when these remains were
probably more clearly marked, that " The
houses, the foundations of which are still
obvious, had been built round the sides of the
summit in regular rows, and the greater part
in a conical form. In the centre are the
foundations of oblong houses of larger dimen-
sions. The conical houses are generally 12 feet
in diameter within the walls."
v. S.W. 31 March 1914.
14. Hill Fort, Skid Hill, Garleton Hills. -
About 1 1/4 miles south of the town of Haddington
lies the short range of the Garleton Hills, rising
about 600 feet above sea-level and overlooking
the whole of the central and northern portions
of the county. On Skid Hill, the highest point
in the range, some 600 yards east of the Hope-
toun Monument and 3/4 mile west of the fort
at Kae Heughs (No. 74), slight traces of
fortification are to be detected towards the
eastern end of the summit. The hill is strongly
defended by nature on three sides ; steep slopes
and rocky cliffs rise about 200 feet on the
northern side and about 100 feet on the east
and south, while to the west, from which
direction it is easiest of access, there is a sharp
fall of some 70 feet from the summit to the
hollow between it and a lower hill farther west.
Round the western curve of the hill, some 16
feet above the bottom of the hollow, there is
a terrace 30 feet wide in places, on the edge of
which there seems to have been a wall now
difficult to trace except at the south-west,
where the mound is 10 feet in breadth at the
base and rises 1 foot above the inner level.
About 22 feet higher up the steep slope there
are traces of an inner rampart. A gap 20 feet
wide near the southern extremity of the outer
defence seems to betoken the position of an
entrance, and the shoulder of the hill appears
to have been scarped to the eastern side of the
roadway leading to the entrance. A large
quarry, the Skid Hill Quarry, encroaches on
the southern side of the fort.
v. S. W. (Unnoted) 31 May 1913.
15. Hill Fort (supposed) Craigy Hill, Garleton
Hills. - Some 300 yards east-north-east of the
last site (No. 14) is an elevated rocky plateau
with very steep sides, rising some 500 feet above
sea-level, which seems to have been fortified.
It is somewhat oval in shape, the longer axis
running west-north-west and east-south-east,
and measures 300 feet in length by 130 feet
in breadth. While there are precipitous sides
30 to 40 feet high round the greater part of the
circumference, the slope below the rock falls
sharply for about 60 feet on the south and
100 feet on the northern flank. To the east
there is a narrow ridge, which slopes away
more gradually from the foot of the rock, and
to the west the fall from the rock is not more
than 20 feet. Round the foot of the rocks at
the western end and southern flank is a terrace
30 feet broad in places, which is not carried
round the east and north. For some distance
from the western end of the northern flank a
wall, 8 feet broad at the base and 2 feet high
on the inside, has been thrown up 10 feet from
the foot of the precipice, and this is continued
to a point opposite the north-west, where the
terrace on the west meets it some 90 feet from
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 49. - Pilmuir House (No. 20).
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 50. - Lennoxlove (No. 70).
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ATHELSTANEFORD.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [BOLTON.
the rock to form a triangular enclosure, in
which there are several hollows of irregular
shape. A roadway carried slantingly up the
scarp on the south-west to the terrace may
have formed the entrance to the fort, but it is
impossible to say whether this is of ancient
or comparatively recent date. Rising from the
terrace on the southern side a slight gully in
the rocks gives access to the summit and there
are slight signs of building at this part.
On the northern side of the top of the rock
is a small cave, which the people of the locality
associate with the name of Wallace.
v. S.W. (Unnoted). 31 May 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
16. Cross Shaft, The Boar Stone, Prora .- At
the farm steading of Prora is a broken cross
shaft of sandstone, which originally stood in a
field some 700 yards south-east of the steading
and was known as the Boar Stone, the site
being marked on the O.S. map. As it interfered
with agricultural operations, it was removed
many years ago to its present site. The stone,
which is broken across both ends, is of rectan-
gular section with chamfered edges and tapers
towards the top. It measures 5 feet 11 inches
in length, 14 ins. in breadth and 11 1/2 inches
in thickness at the lower end but 11 1/2 inches
in breadth and 7 1/4 inches in thickness at the
upper end.
v. N.E. 23 April 1915.
17. Standing Stone, Muirhouses. - On the
summit of a low, broad ridge in a cultivated
field on the farm of Muirhouses, 250 yards west
of the steading and about 160 feet above sea-
level, is a massive boulder of irregular shape set
on end. It measures 4 feet 5 inches in height,
11 feet in girth at the base, 11 feet 8 inches
in girth half way up, and 4 feet 8 inches across
its eastern aspect.
v. S.E. 3 June 1913.
18. Standing Stone, Muirhouses. - Some 800
yards south of Muirhouses steading, on the
crest of a low ridge, about 150 feet above sea-
level, in a field within sight of and about 700
yards from the last mentioned standing stone
(No. 17), is a stone pillar of regular breadth,
slanting towards the north at an angle of 33°.
It measures 4 feet 6 inches in length and
9 feet 3 inches in girth about the middle, and
has been packed round the base with small
boulders.
v. S.E. 3 June 1913.
SITE.
The O.S. map indicates the following site :-
19. Graveyard, St. John's Chapel Drem. -
v. N.W.
BOLTON.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURE.
20. Pilmuir House. - This 17th century
dwelling (fig. 49), situated at the western
extremity of the parish, 1 1/4 miles N.N.E. of
the village of East Salton, is an example of
domestic architecture of that period and is
particularly interesting in its retention of
contemporary features.
The structure, two storeys and an attic and
garret in height, is built on a simple plan
(fig. 51), consisting of a main block running
east-north-east and west-south-west and a
smaller wing projecting on the north, which
houses a spacious spiral staircase with a bed-
room overhead. The exterior is unpretentious,
having walls of rubble coated with rough cast,
yet the crow-stepped gables and dormer pedi-
ments, the steeply pitched roof and the turret
stair corbelled out over the west re-entering
angle, give individuality and character to the
building.
The original entrance, now utilised as a
kitchen entrance, is in the projecting wing
and communicates immediately through the
stair well with the basement chambers. This
entrance has a moulded architrave, over which
is set a panel bearing in monogram the initials
W C for William Cairns and A B for Agnes
Brown his wife. ¹ Below the monogram is a
shield parted per pale ; dexter, within a bordure
three martlets close (Cairns) ; sinister, a dagger
or knife fessways between three boars' heads
erased (Broun of Blackburn bore a dagger in
bend, in chief a boar's head erased.) The date
1624 is inscribed in relief below the shield.
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[Plans inserted]
FIG. 51. - Pilmuir House (No. 20).
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BOLTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [BOLTON.
The turret stair contained within the west
re-entering angle leads from the attic to the
garret storey and is borne on the usual cor-
belling, but this, in its turn, is supported by a
squinch arch. The squinch is here employed,
not to reinforce the corbelling, which of itself
is sufficient to support the stair, but to obtain
an extended space for the stair without en-
croaching on the wings. This is effected by
placing the centre of the stair over the plane
of the squinch not, as is usually done, over the
apex of the re-entering angle.
The two storeyed out-building in the eastern
re-entering angle is probably an addition.
The basement contains the kitchen and
offices ; the first floor the living apartments.
On this latter storey the drawing-room, on the
west, has a good contemporary plaster ceiling
with moulded ribs and modelled enrichments.
The windows in the west gable are blinded.
The eastern apartment has been subdivided to
provide a central hall and a dining-room on the
east. All the apartments are panelled in pine.
The central window of the south wall is cut
down to form a doorway, which communicates
by a flight of steps with the garden and is
utilised as the principal entrance.
The second floor - an attic - contains the
family bedrooms. These chambers are also
panelled, and the finishings of pine are elab-
orately moulded and in the western apartment
enriched with carving of early 18th century
type.
The main staircase goes no higher than this
floor ; the turret stair provides access from this
level to the garret and a small bedroom above
the main staircase.
The building measures externally some 57 1/4
feet in length over the main block by 21 1/4 feet
in breadth. The gables are 3 feet 9 inches thick
and the lateral walls from 2 feet 4 inches to
2 feet 9 inches. The staircase wing projects
9 feet 7 inches from the north wall and is 12 1/2
feet broad. The main stair is 4 feet and the
turret stair 2 feet 8 inches wide. The building
has been carefully conserved and is occupied.
DOVECOT. - Some 100 yards south-east of the
house is a contemporary dovecot, rectangular
on plan, having a lean-to roof (fig. 24). It is
25 feet in height, measures externally 19 feet
2 inches by 17 feet 4 inches and contains stone
boxes for over 1000 birds.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - William Cairns of Pil-
muir (d. 1653) had a son Richard, who suc-
ceeded him, but dying s.p., left the estate
entailed upon William Borthwick eldest son of
his sister Sibilla and Alexander Borthwick in
Johnstounburn. The deed of entail is dated
1659. William Borthwick of Pilmuir was dead
before 1689. ²
1 History of the Cairnses, p. 220.
2 Minutes of Evidence, Borthwick Peerage
Case, pp. 73-6. cf. Reg. Mag. Sig. 1656,
No. 543.
xv. N.W. 23 June 1913.
21. Eaglescairnie - This house, 3/4 of a mile
south-east of Bolton, is mainly modern, but
the northern portion dates from the late 17th
or early 18th century. This portion is L-shaped
on plan, and within the re-entering angle is a
stair tower. That there was an earlier house
is evidenced by an armorial panel, dated 1595,
now inserted above the coach house door. The
panel is flanked by initials G H and A H for
George Halyburton of Eaglescairnie and his
wife A Hunter and bears on the upper part
three mascles on a bend, with a star in sinister
chief and a rose (? actually a cross within a
circle) at the dexter base, one or other for
difference ; on the lower part the three hunting
horns of Hunter. The treatment of these arms
is uncommon : instead of being impaled they
are placed one above the other, that of Haly-
burton occupying what would be the chief of
a shield treated as a segment of a circle pro-
jecting downwards.
x S.W. 19 February 1923.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTION.
22. Fort, "The Chesters." - The remains of
the earthen walls of this fort lie on rolling
ground 400 feet above sea-level, on the south-
western side of the Gifford and Bolton Road and
almost opposite the road to Eaglescairnie Mains.
With the exception of a small portion, which is
seen in a plantation along the side of the road,
the area occupied by the fort is now under
regular cultivation, and it is with the utmost
difficulty that the defences can be traced. The
main axis of the fort, which has been oval in
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DIRLETON ] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DIRLETON.
plan, runs north-east and south-west, and the
interior has measured more than 500 feet in
length and some 400 feet in breadth. Part
of the north-eastern end having been cut off
by the public road, it is impossible to ascertain
the exact original length. The north-western
flank runs along the top of a declivity too steep
for cultivation which rises some 25 feet above
the hollow below. It is only among the trees
to the north-east that the defences can be
traced with certainty, and here is a short
segment of the north-western rampart, broad-
ened out to a width of 21 feet and rising 2 feet
in height, with a segment of the south-eastern
flank, where are two ramparts placed 43 feet
apart ; the inner of these is 20 feet in breadth,
1 1/2 feet high on the inside and 4 1/2 feet high on
the outside, and the outer rampart is 27 feet
broad and 5 1/2 feet high. Some 30 feet from the
side of the road a modern turf dyke has been
built, but between it and the road there is a
small portion of a mound, 12 feet broad and
4 feet high, which may have formed part of the
original inner rampart encircling the north-
eastern end of the fort.
xv. N.W. 22 May 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
23. Bell. - Within the tower of the modern
Parish Church is a bell 1 foot 3 1/2 inches in
diameter at skirt. It is inscribed " Michael ·
Burgerhuys · me · fecit 1618." The canons
are complete.
x. S.W. 30 May 1913.
DIRLETON.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
24. Old Parish Church, Gullane. - The ruin of
the old Parish Church of Gullane which was
dedicated to St. Andrew lies within the church-
yard on the north side of the village street.
The structure dates from the second half of
the 12th century and has been altered in the
13th and 15th centuries. It is oblong on plan
(fig. 52), and has a long narrow nave, without
aisles, that opened into a chancel of lesser
width by an archway, which is now built up.
At the eastern end of the nave a transept was
added c. late 15th century projecting from the
north wall and opening to the nave by an
archway, since filled in, and with a compara-
tively modern doorway inserted in the infilling.
Modern partitions divide the ruin into private
burial places.
The chancel is square-ended and has been
prolonged 17 feet from the length of 20
feet obtaining, as shewn by the window
details, in the 13th century. The width is
16 feet and the walls are 3 feet thick. In the
north wall is an arched recess, 2 1/2 feet high and
2 feet broad, now built up but possibly the
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 52. - Parish Church, Gullane (No. 24).
remains of a sacrament house. In the south
wall are two narrow 13th century lancet
windows with pointed arched heads.
The chancel arch (fig. 53) is 8 feet wide and
has two plain orders on the eastern face. To
the nave the archivolt is enriched with the
chevron ornament beneath a triple surfaced
[Marginal note] = [tile]
label. The jambs are square, and from each
projects a semi-shaft terminating in multi-
cubical capitals with cabled neckings. The
rybats on the western side of the jamb are
secondary.
The nave has been altered in post-Reformation
times so as to leave no features of interest.
The width is 19 feet and the length indeter-
minate.
The built-up archway to the transept is
semicircular. The archivolt and jambs have
chamfered edges and are separated by impost
capitals. The transept has been lit from an
arch-headed window in its north wall now
built up.
The external dimensions are as under:-
Nave -- 25 feet wide with a present length
of 71 feet.
Chancel -- 21 1/2 feet wide with a present
length of 37 feet.
Transept -- 21 1/4 feet wide with a present
length of 20 1/2 feet.
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Photograph inserted]
FIG. 53. - Chancel Arch, Parish Church, Gullane (No. 24).
[Photograph inserted]
FIG. 54. - Saltcoats Castle (No. 28).
To face p. 14. |
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DIRLETON] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [DIRLETON.
The structure is densely covered with ivy and
is in a very ruinous and unsound condition.
FONT.-Built into a wall on the left-hand
side of the road leading to Dirleton is a roughly
quadrangular stone 20 inches long with a centre
bowl 7 inches in diameter, which is said to have
been used as a baptismal font at this church1;
it is more probably a large cresset stone.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The church of St.
Andrew at ' Golyn ' in the diocese of St.
Andrews was in existence before 1170, when
its patronage was granted to the convent of
Dryburgh on behalf of the church at Fidra
(cf. No. 26). It was the ' mother church ' of
a chapel at Congleton and the chapel of " All
Saints " at Dirleton ; and was formerly
dedicated by David de Bernham in 1242.
By this bishop in the same year it was reduced
from a rectory or parsonage to the grade of a
vicarage served by one of the canons of Dry-
burgh with the assistance of a secular priest.
The vicar was to receive 12 marks annually,
the balance of income accruing to the general
revenues of the abbey, then under a load of
debt (mole debiitorum). In 1290 the revenues of
the church were valued for the tithe at £48. The
church also paid to the bishop of St. Andrews
four marks yearly as ' procuration ' or com-
muted visiting expenses and four marks as
"ancient cain" (pro antiquo cano) or food-rent.
In the Dryburgh rental of 1560-70 the Kirk of
'Gulen' is set for £151. Its history throughout
is bound up with that of Dryburgh.2
In 1612 by Act of Parliament the " Kirk of
Gulane " was translated to Dirleton on the
grounds that it was in a remote corner of the
parish and thus inconvenient and that church
and churchyard were being " continewallie
overblawin with sand." The stones and
timber were, if necessary, to be used in erecting
the new kirk at Dirleton.3
1 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxi., p. 377 (illus.) ;
2 Liber de Dryburgh passim ; Pontificale Ecc-
lesiæ S. Andreæ ; 3 Act. Parl. Scot. iv., p. 490 ;
cf. 1633 v., p. 106).
ii. S.W. 9 July 1913.
25. Parish Church, Dirleton.-Sometime
after 1612 (cf. No. 24 Historical Note) this
church was erected on a site north of the
village ; it is a long narrow structure with a
15
west tower and a south cross aisle, the latter
having been added in 1664. The north vestry,
east porch and the upper part of the tower are
[marginal note]
Two common gar-
goyels mark the
old level.
modern. The aisle is ashlar built, while the
other parts are of rubble. The former has
heavily rusticated pilasters with pedestals at
the southern angles ; on each pilaster are the
remains of a tablet sundial. The south gable
has a coarse Renaissance pediment with an
ensigned cartouche on the tympanum bearing
a saltire within a bordure charged with eight
thistle slips for James Maxwell Earl of Dirleton.
These arms are represented on the Renaissance
entrance in the east wall and again on the
archway between aisle and church, in the last
instance in association with a lozenge, also
ensigned, charged : A large crosspaté between
four smaller ones, presumably the arms of
Elizabeth Bousoyn (de Podolski?) Countess of
Dirleton. The south window of the aisle is a
late Gothic three-light window of unusually
good design and execution for the period.
Internally the church is plain and has been
modernised ; the lowest storey of the tower is
[marginal note]
The church tower is
used as a dovecot. For
this use see Coulton
The Medieval village,
p. 78.
vaulted and access is given to the bell chamber
above by a turret stair projecting from the
north wall.
MONUMENT.-Built into the [insert] abute of the [end insert] east gable of the
church is a Renaissance monument probably
[marginal note]
The Batrin inscrip-
tion is dated in one
place 1728 and in
another 172-.
of the early 18th century ; a cartouche on the
pediment is parted per pale and charged :
dexter, within a bordure indented on a fess
three cinquefoils (Heriot), and sinister, within
a bordure wavy a buckle between three boars'
heads erased (? for Ferguson).
ii. S.W. 14 November 1923.
26. St. Nicholas Chapel, Fidra.-Situated
on the east side of the Island of Fidra, above the
landing stage, are the remains of a church.
The structure is orientated and has been double
chambered, combining choir and sanctuary of
equal widths. The sanctuary has been some
19 feet long and separated by an arch 2 3/4 feet
thick from the choir, which was 39 1/4 feet in
length. The span of the structure is 20 1/2 feet.
The gables have been 3 feet and the lateral
walls 2 3/4 feet in thickness.
Only the north wall now remains ; the others
can be traced solely by foundations. The
former is some 12 to 15 feet in height and a
length of 44 feet is still standing. It is built |
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[Plan inserted]
FIG. 55. - Dirleton Castle (No. 27).
[Marginal notes]
In the well chamber
sockets for a door
hinge remain on
each side about 1
foot in.
The jambs of its postern show marks made by
sharpening points.
X This room
has had a loft
inserted at a
height of about
6 feet over the
present floor
[line] There is a similar locker in the
passage at the foot of the stair in the donjon
at Aiques Montes.
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DIRLETON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [DIRLETON.
of igneous rock irregularly coursed with grey
sandstone dressings. In the north wall of the
sanctuary there is a lancet window 1 foot
4 inches wide with an obtusely pointed head
and semi-circular scoinson arch ; a splay is
wrought on the jambs. An aperture at the
western end appears to have been a round
arched north door. West of this is a small
roughly finished window. The structure prob-
ably dates from the early 13th century. From
the west end of the building other foundations
run in a southerly direction towards the creek.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - The church in Fidra or
" island of Elbotle " was dedicated to St.
Nicholas and served by the canons of Dryburgh.
In the reign of William the Lion (c. 1170)
William de Vaux (cf. No. 27) granted to it the
patronage of the church at Gullane, and the
grant was confirmed by his son John. A
later William c. 1220 made a grant to the
canons of the island itself, with land in the
" territory of Elbotyle " on the mainland
immediately opposite. Two canons were under-
stood to reside and celebrate on the island.
But about 1240 Alexander de Vaux " in con-
sideration of the imminent dangers of times
present and to come " released Dryburgh
from the necessity of maintaining that chantry
(illam cantariam) as hitherto on the island itself,
or of building or sending canons to live on it.
Instead a canon was to be provided at " Stod-
fald " on the mainland and another in Dry-
burgh to pray for the souls of this de Vaux'
ancestors and successors. ¹ It does not seem,
therefore, that the building was ever completed.
1 Liber de Dryburgh passim.
ii. N.W. 4 August 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
27. Dirleton Castle. - This imposing ruin
is situated immediately east of the village green
of Dirleton within a walled pleasaunce and is
built on the crest of an outcrop of rock, which
rises sheer on the north, west and south to an
elevation of 100 feet above ordnance datum
and within 25 feet at most above the immediate
level but has a more gradual inclination on the
east. The rock summit is roughly quadri-
lateral, measuring 135 feet from north to south
by 115 feet from east to west, and has been
entirely enclosed by the building of a wall of
enceinte incorporated in structures on the
north, south and east (fig. 55).
OUTWORKS. - The southern face of the site,
in which is set the main entrance, is strength-
ened by a dry ditch 45 feet wide and in places
15 feet deep cut in part through the rock.
(fig. 56). This was spanned by a bridge, pro-
bably of wood, supported on stone piers, which
still remain in the ditch. Traces of a ditch some
30 feet wide are seen also at the north-eastern
angle of the site. On the west the rock is
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 56. - Dirleton Castle (No. 27).
sufficiently steep to make a further obstacle
unnecessary. On the east, where the rock has
an easy gradient, there is no trace of any
outwork, but it should be noted that the
lower 27 feet of the eastern wall contains no
openings except a small entrance built up in
the 15th century, if not earlier.
ENCLOSURE. - West of the castle there is an
area some 80 to 90 yards square, which is
enclosed by an earthen mound planted with
old yew trees - apparently a bowling green,
as in the similar case at Dunnottar Castle.
DOVECOT. - Some 30 yards north of the
[Marginal note] 42
castle is the dovecot, a 16th century structure,
incorporated in a modern boundary wall.
It is circular on plan, 21 feet in diameter and
some 25 feet high. The height externally is
divided into four tiers by horizontal string-
courses ; a moulded billet-course characteristic
of the period returns round the wall-head.
GATEWAY. - Immediately east of the dovecot
is a contemporary gateway with a semi-
circular head. It is 9 1/4 feet wide by 11 feet high;
a quirked edge-roll returns round the head and
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DIRLETON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DIRLETON.
jambs ; the east jamb contains the usual
bar-hole.
BUILDING PERIODS.-Three main periods
may be traced in the castle buildings c.
13th, 15th and 16th centuries. In the 13th
century the castle appears to have consisted
of an enclosure formed by walls of enceinte
following the perimeter of the site very much
on the line of the walls now standing. The
south-western angle contains the main building,
which has towers semicircular and oblong, pro-
jecting outwardly (fig. 57). East of this the
south wall is penetrated by the main entrance
(fig. 58) and originally terminated at the south-
east angle in a circular tower, of which only the
lower portion remains. The lowest courses of
another similar tower, which originally occupied
the N.N.E. angle, have now (1924) been ex-
posed. Later work overlies these, and a small
circular tower has left foundations in the south.
The existing ranges of building against the
east and south curtains were erected in the
15th century, but, as these structures appear
to incorporate older buildings, particularly at
the south-eastern angle, it is difficult to
determine the exact chronology of the parts.
The 16th century building comprises a
structure now forming the northern boundary
of a court at the south-west angle with
adjoining towers containing the staircases.
MASONRY.-The 13th century masonry is of
ashlar blocks in 10-inch courses built with a
batter towards the base. The stone used is a
fine-grained hard white sandstone and a
similarly tinted but much softer stone re-
sembling that from Gullane Quarry in the
vicinity. Several stones deeper in hue appear
to be marine. The later work is constructed
in rubble apparently obtained on the site,
with freestone dressings.
Externally the 13th century masonry is visible
southwards from the top of the stepped access
[marginal note]
not shown on
plan
to the courtyard on the west side to the west
jamb of the main entrance in the south wall.
It is again traceable from the east of the
entrance to just beyond the small cruciform
aperture in the guardroom adjoining the
entrance, and again in the remains of the
circular tower at the south-eastern angle. On
plan this work is tinted solid black. This
masonry is seen internally throughout the main
structure and, while the outer wall of the
18
eastern buildings is a later construction, the
inner face seems to follow the line of the
original curtain. This supposition is strength-
ened by the fact that there is in this east wall
at the cellar level the 13th century side gate,
already mentioned, built up by a later wall in
front of it. The north end of this range was
completed rather later than the main portion
(see fig. 55).
A noticeable feature throughout the earliest
building is the use of pointed segmental
ribbed arches and rib vaulting constructed in
freestone. It should be noted that the ribs
of the larger vaults have entirely disappeared
through decay, but that the vaults still stand.
In the 15th century work the barrel vault is
resorted to, and the majority of the openings
have semicircular heads.
THE BUILDINGS.-The buildings of the 13th
century are grouped round a small tri-
angular court and are intact except on the
north, where a 16th century structure is im-
posed on old foundations. A 16th century
trance leads from the courtyard to the court,
and from the court to the lowest storey of the
buildings is entered. There has been no inter-
communication between the chambers at this
level, but each has an entrance from the court.
The principle building is the great drum tower
on the south, which has an exterior diameter
of 36 feet and contains on the ground floor an
irregular hexagonal chamber, rib-vaulted, with-
in walls about 10 feet thick. This apartment
is feebly lighted by three narrow window-slits.
There is a fireplace at the north-north-west in
a very ruinous state ; the jambs have been
chamfered at the inner arris and corbelled out
at the head to carry a projecting hood. From
a recess in the west wall a mural passage winds
round to a garderobe provided with a soil
flue and now communicating with a rib-
vaulted chamber in the oblong tower through
a rent in the partition. This latter chamber,
which originally could only be entered by the
door at the south angle of the court, also has
a soil flue adjoining that previously mentioned.
There is a narrow window in each of the ex-
terior walls. The north-west and south-west
angles have a chase running upwards through
the vault and through the vault of the chamber
above, but for what purpose is not obvious.
The smaller circular tower contains a quad- |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Photograph inserted]
FIG. 57. - Dirleton Castle from the South-West (No. 27).
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - East Lothian.
[Photograph inserted]
FIG. 58. - Dirleton Castle, Entrance (No. 27).
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DIRLETON] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN -- [DIRLETON.
rangular rib-vaulted chamber with narrow
windows looking northwards and to the
south, and a larger window, probably an
insertion, facing west. At the south-west angle
are the remains of a fireplace, and a mural
passage opposite leads to a garderobe with a
soil flue and lamp recess.
The eastern end of the court has been vaulted
over to form a pend at ground level ; the
stubs of the vault ribs are seen on the wall
at either side. The pend is complete from
beyond the entrance to the great tower to its
termination in the well chamber, and from it is
reached a postern in the angle of the tower and
curtain.
The original mode of access to the upper
floor is hard to determine. At this height the
rooms in the southern towers intercommunicate
by a mural passage, and the level is now reached
by 16th century wheel staircases. The remains
of a fore-stair against the south wall of the
court suggest that there was an entrance on
the first floor over that portion of the pend
which has been destroyed. On the other hand
the vaulted and angled passage adjoining the
eastern wheel stair is undoubtedly contem-
porary with the oldest portion of the building.
The first floor of the great tower was once
the principal apartment of the castle. It is
similar in shape to the lower storey and has a
lofty vaulted roof, from which the ribs have
disappeared. The windows have lintels ex-
ternally and are comparatively wide ; they
have apparently been enlarged at a later period,
but the most easterly, which is extremely
narrow and has a pointed ogival head, is also
secondary ; in the sill is a slop drain. The
three larger windows have stone seats in
the ingoing.
The fireplace in the north wall is greatly
destroyed. It has a recessed shaft in each
jamb rising from a 13th century Gothic
base to a plain bell capital. The abacus
of the capital is elaborately moulded and
enriched with a nail-head ornament and
is corbelled out to receive the lintel, which has
supported the projecting hood. A mural
passage at the west of the fireplace leads from
this chamber to the upper floor of the oblong
tower and gives access to a small mural
chamber and a wheel stair ascending to the
now ruinous upper storey of the building. The
upper chamber in the oblong tower is covered
with a rib-vault. The windows are narrow
internally, and the heads are contracted by
corbels, giving a shouldered appearance. The
upper floor of the smaller circular tower is
ruinous, open to the weather, and can only be
reached by a ladder. A mural passage leads
off it to a garderobe. The well chamber is
open to this floor also and is reached from the
passage by which the hall is entered.
The curtain walls show entrances on the
east, south and west, but whether these latter
occupy the site of the originals cannot be stated.
That in the south wall - the main entrance -
appears to be a later construction probably of
the 15th century. The massive piers within
which the entrance lies, are built against and
project outwards from the curtain. The piers
are joined at the head by an obtusely pointed
arch of two members at such a height as would
permit the draw-bridge being drawn up within
the jambs. There have been angle turrets
with machicolations at the exterior angles, but
of these only the corbelling remains. The
projection in the south-west angle is a
garde-robe. The mortice on the ingoing
of each jamb probably housed a transome,
on which the drawbridge rested. Above
the outer gateway there is an empty space
for an armorial panel, and immediately below
is a small grated window. The outer and
inner gateways have semicircular heads.
In the soffit between them there is a
circular machicolation. Beyond the inner gate,
in what has been a vaulted trance, the port-
cullis chases are seen. On either side of the
trance is a small vaulted chamber. The
eastern of these has a fireplace and slop drain,
and is lit by extremely narrow windows ; one
is cruciform in shape, the other has a shouldered
pointed head.
The eastern range of buildings is mainly a
15th century structure. The lowest storey
forms a cellarage partially excavated from the
rock and ceiled with a lofty barrel vault (fig.
59). It is subdivided by cross partitions, each
compartment so formed having its own entrance
from the courtyard. The southern chamber is
provided with two great ovens, a well and a
[Marginal note] well is 13th century.
drain. North of the cellars and at the court-
yard level there is an apartment which has
been used as a chapel. It is entered from the
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DIRLETON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DIRLETON.
courtyard through a little vestibule or lobby
and can be reached from the cellar by a wheel
stair in the thickness of the east wall. The
chamber is an irregular quadrilateral with a
triangular bay projecting eastwards to contain
the altar. At the north-east angle there is a
cupboard and on the east wall the much
destroyed remains of a piscina, which had a
projecting bowl. In the south wall is a credence
recess with a semicircular head. In the west
[Marginal note] no! obtusely pointed
wall adjoining the entrance is a benatura with
a recessed ogival head and projecting bowl
and towards the north-west angle a cupboard
recess with a pointed head, on which a foliaceous
enrichment has been carried round the head
and jambs ; the cupboard has been shelved.
In addition to these purely ecclesiastical
features the chapel has the appointments of a
living room of the period. It is ceiled with a
barrel vault and has narrow windows looking
north and west. A larger window in the north
wall is provided with window seats. The
north-west angle contains a fireplace with a
recessed seat in the west jamb. The recess
has a pointed head with cusps carved in relief
at the back. The other jamb is ruinous ; it
also may have contained a seat. In the south
wall there is an aperture which has been pro-
[Marginal note] ?
vided with inner and outer shutters, through
which the cellarage could be overlooked. The
doorway at the south-east angle admits to a
second vaulted chamber containing a fireplace,
window and garderobe ; within this chamber
lies the entrance to the wheel-stair from the
cellars.
From the little entrance lobby at the court-
yard a stair leads down to a vaulted room
beneath the chapel, passing a garderobe in
transit. This room seems to have been a place
of confinement. It has a fireplace in the north-
east angle, and small windows to the west
and north. Beneath the north window there
is a trap giving access to a still lower vaulted
prison or "pit" (fig. 55) partly rock hewn, partly
built, without light and ventilated only by a
flue in the breast of the window above. At the
north-east angle a narrow stair leads up to a
garderobe with a soil chamber below.
The upper floor of the eastern range consists
of a Hall with a kitchen to the south, and an
inner room to the north, from which a turn-
pike rose to an upper chamber. The Hall has
been entered from the courtyard by a fore-
stair. From north to south it measures some
60 feet by 30 feet from east to west. There
have been windows to west and east, while
the south wall forms " the screens " and con-
tains a recess 5 feet 2 inches long, 2 feet 9 inches
high by 1 foot 2 inches deep with elaborately
moulded and foliaceously enriched jambs and
segmental arched head (fig. 60). The side and
central finials are crocketted, and above the
crown of the arch there is a small recessed panel
with an ogival head, which contains a weather-
worn shield charged quarterly : 1st and 4th,
3 mascles on a bend (Halyburton) ; 2nd,
[Marginal note] Date of Cameron Correct [?]
3 bars (Cameron) and 3rd a bend (Vaux).
The foliaceous ornament on the jambs and head
is derived from the vine scroll. On the halfits
there are circular pateræ and in the interspace
between the crocketting on the side finials is a
nail-head enrichment. The recess is very
similar in form and decoration to the 15th cen-
tury sepulchral monuments in the collegiate
churches ; what purpose it served is not quite
clear, but its position suggests its use as a buffet
or " dresser " for the display of plate. In
[Marginal note] ? in the screens
the hall of Borthwick Castle, Midlothian, is
another example of the same feature of the
same century.
At the south-east angle of the Hall a door
led to a vaulted servery, from which a stair
leads down to a serving hatch in the haunch
of the vault below. The servery contains a
cupboard in the north wall and two small
windows to the east.
The kitchen is vaulted with a pointed barrel
[Marginal note] Shown circular on plan
vault 32 feet high pierced with a central
circular aperture for ventilation. It has a
great fireplace against the north and another
against the east wall. A hatch in the floor
[Marginal note] The kitchen at Dudley Castle has 2 fireplaces
communicates with the bakery below and
another with the well. The only lights are
in the south wall, while the lower window has
a slop drain in the breast and a cupboard in
the east jamb. Off the kitchen there opens a
chamber, originally a small court which later
was roofed in and provided with an oven in the
south wall. Through this chamber the kitchen
communicates with the Hall by a vaulted
service passage. There has been stone shelving
along the east wall terminating at the service
opening. At the south-west angle of the
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Ancient and Historical Monuments. - East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 59. - East Cellars.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 60. - Buffet.
DIRLETON CASTLE (No. 27).
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DIRLETON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [DIRLETON.
passage a wheel-stair partially corbelled out in
a re-entering angle leads to the portcullis room
and the rooms over.
[inserted note]
The portcullis chamber was later
subdivided - see fireplaces.
The building and stair towers forming the
north wall of the little court at the south-west
angle were built circa 16th century. The
building is three storeys in height, and on the
courtyard level is penetrated by a vaulted
trance with doorways at either end with semi-
circular heads, around which returns a quirked
edge-roll. On either side of the trance there
is a small vaulted cellar. The first floor was
probably subdivided-there being two fire-
places in the south-west wall-into two apart-
ments, which were living rooms, while the
upper floors contained bedrooms. The windows
to the courtyard have gunloops in the breasts.
On the exterior of the north wall a moulded
corbel course returns along the wall head.
Below this are two string courses, the lower
breaking and returning round a panel space
for an armorial bearing.
To this period also may be ascribed the small
soil chamber in the fragment of the west
curtain.
The castle buildings are now under the con-
trol of H.M. Office of Works, and are being
put into a proper state of repair.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The lands of Dirleton
and Gullane were possessed from about the
middle of the 12th century by the family of
De Vaux (Vallibus).1 Their castle (castellum de
Dyrlton) is specifically mentioned c. 1225.2 In
the summer of 1298, when Edward I. was lying
at " Templehyston " (Kirkliston in Linlithgow-
shire), his foraging parties were being harassed
by the Scots from Dirleton Castle, which the
King had passed by on his march. He therefore
sent the Bishop of Durham to capture the
place. The first attacks were a failure owing
to a deficiency of siege machines and of food.
On the receipt of fresh supplies a further attack
July 14-15 was successful, the garrison being
allowed to go with their lives and property.3
In 1299 Robert de Maudlee was governor of
" Driltone " for Edward I.4 and in 1311 the
place was still in English hands.5 Within the
first half of the 14th century the castle and
lands passed by marriage to the family of
Halyburton, and in 1389 Sir John Halyburton
had a protection from Richard II. of England
for the castle and barony of " Drylton."6
21
While in ward in the King's hands in 1363 it
was seized by William, Earl of Douglas, as the
first step in a revolt against David II. for
misappropriation of public money.7 In 1505
James IV. was at Dirleton and gave 28/ to the
masons and workmen there-so that building
was then going on. [insert] 8 [end insert] Early in the 16th century
the Halyburton line in its turn ended in
heiresses, of whom the eldest conveyed Dirleton
to her husband's family, the Ruthvens, after-
wards (1581) Earls of Gowrie.9 Robert Logan
made Dirleton, which he esteemed " the
pleasantest dwelling in Scotland ", the price
of his co-operation in the " Gowrie Conspiracy "
in 1600. For the later history of the ownership
see Introd. p. [insert] xxi. [end of insert]
In 1650 " Derlingtoun (i.e. Dirleton) House "
was a nest of the moss-troopers who killed
many soldiers of the army. Major-General
Lambert and Colonel Monk with 1600 men came
before the castle on November 7 and next
morning opened fire from their batteries. The
fourth shot (i.e. shell) of their mortar piece
" tore the inner gate, beat down the draw-
bridge, and killed the lieutenant of the moss-
troopers," whereupon the garrison surrendered
" upon reverence," being the governor, the
captain of the moss-troopers and sixty soldiers.
The captors " took in it many arms, sixty
horses which they had taken from the English,
and released ten English prisoners, and de-
molished the House."10
[marginal note]
See also info ,
p. 156.
1 Lib. de Dryburgh, Nos. 23, 29, 31, &c. ;
2 Ibid, No. 37 ; 3 Hemingburgh's Chronicon in
Annales Monastici (R.S.) iv., pp. 536-7 ;
4 Stevenson, Hist Docts., ii., p. 401 ; 5 Bain's
Calendar iii., No. 218 ; 6 Ibid, iv., p. 86 ;
7 Scalacronica, p. 203 ; Fordun, Gesta Annalia,
clxxxiv. ; 8 Accts. of L.H. Treas., iii., p. 161 ;
9 cf. R.M.S. s.a. 1529, No. 772, 1535-6 No.
1553 ; 10 Whitelocke's Memorials (1732) p. 478.
ii. S.W. June 1919 : September 1924.
28. Saltcoats Castle.-The remains of this
castle are situated on a level site a little over 1/2
mile due south of Gullane. The ruin has at first
sight the appearance of being considerably older
than it really is, but analysis of the structure
shows it to have been built towards the end of
the 16th century. Erected on a courtyard
plan, the main structure formed the southern |
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DIRLETON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DIRLETON.
boundary, and a range of subsidiary buildings
has apparently run parallel to this on the north
with a courtyard wall on east and west to
complete the enclosure (fig. 61).
The portions now remaining are fragmentary;
of the main buildings the north wall and the
inner partitions are absent ; of the buildings
on the north only one portion at the north-east
angle is complete and that only on the ground
floor. The heavy walls usually found enclosing
the gardens are still in existence but have been
extensively patched.
The main structure is an oblong building,
measuring externally 72 feet from east to west
and 23 1/2 feet from north to south, and terminates
on the west in projecting angle towers, which
are circled at base and develop as they rise to
a square carried on corbels some distance
above ground. At a later period the inter-
space between the towers has been bridged by
a segmental arch, as though the builder had
decided to add to a domestic structure details
of an earlier age. Furthering this idea the
window in the interspace between the towers
is the height of a doorway, but has clearly
been half-glazed and served no other purpose
than that of lighting a portion of the first floor.
In the north tower are gunloops, the lower
cruciform, the upper keyhole-shaped ; these
appear to have been more ornamental than
useful. An unusual feature is the provision of
no less than 14 close set gargoyles on the
southern face above the towers (fig. 54).
The building is constructed of coursed rubble
with ashlar dressings.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 61.-Saltcoats Castle
(No. 28).
It has been entered
from the courtyard
by a doorway, now
represented only by
its west jamb, in
the north wall
close to the tower at
ground level. The
ground floor contain-
ed three apartments
ceiled with semi-
circular barrel-vaults;
the central one ran
north and south,
those at the ends
east and west. These chambers have narrow
slits on the south admitting littlelight. A nar-
[proof correction mark] X (insert space)
22
row turnpike staircase in the north tower gives
access to the first floor level and there termin-
ates. The first floor has been lit by large
windows in the south wall, of which the upper
portions have been glazed, the lower closed by
shutters.
Above this floor a high pitched roof com-
pleted this portion ; but on the extreme west
the portion containing the towers is carried up
two additional storeys, which are reached from
a turret-staircase contained within the re-
entering angle of the south tower and wall.
Above the upper storeys on the west there
may have been a parapet walk.
The only surviving portion of the north range
is a vaulted chamber containing a wide fire-
place at its eastern end provided with an oven
and an outlet for slops. This was the kitchen.
South-west of the castle the well remains and
is in use but has been repaired in brick.
Over the doorway of a cottage west of the
castle is an heraldic panel within a crimped
border containing beneath a helmet and
mantling a shield charged per pale : dexter, a
bend with a boar's (or otter's) head (?) couped,
and sinister, a fess between three roundles.
Flanking the shield are the initials P. L. and
M. F., which have been re-cut and the date 1390,
which is apparently a misreading of an original
1590 (cf. below). This stone probably came
from above the doorway of the castle and the
date 1590 would agree with the detail of the
building.
DOVECOT.-A rectangular dovecot measuring
externally 14 1/4 feet by 16 1/3 feet and 25 feet in
height, which lies north-north-west of the
castle, may be a contemporary structure.
DETAILS.-In the north wall of the garden
is a door lintel inscribed : 16 G.L. 95. In the
west wall is a wide arched entrance with a
segmental head, which has been built up.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The initials P.L. are
those of Patrick Levingtoun of Saltcoats
(" Saultcottis ") on record in 1588-9, 1594 &c.1
Nesbit says he had seen an armorial seal
charged with a bend and " an otter's (or boar's)
head couped in chief " with the legend " Sig.
Patricii Livingtoun de Saltcoat 1593."2 These
arms are given for " Levingtoun of Saltcottis "
by Lindsay and are those on the panel here,
save that the head is more probably that of
a bear muzzled. The bend blazon is probably |
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DIRLETON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [DIRLETON.
from the coat of the de Vaux of Dirleton, which
showed : argent a bend gules ; the colours of
the Levingtoun coat also according to Lindsay.3
The impaled arms are those of Fawside, in-
dicating a wife of that family (cf. Art. No. 193).
The 1695 initials are those of George Levingtoun,
who died before 1705 and was the last male of
the line.4
The place was still inhabited c. 1790, but
" the principal part of the building " was
" removed for agricultural improvements 20
years ago " (i.e., c. 1823-4).5
1 Reg. P.C. iv., 357, v., 625 ; 2 Heraldry i.,
p. 104 ; 3 cf. further Introd., p. xxiv ; 4
Stodart's Scottish Arms, ii., p. 322. ; 5 Lamp
of Lothian, p. 122 note.
v. N.W. 6 July 1913.
CAVE DWELLINGS.
29. Caves, Hanging Rocks, Archerfield.-
At Hanging Rocks, in a small bay south-east of
Eyebroughy (or Eyebrochy), is a rocky bluff,
in which are two caves about 15 feet from high
water mark. The first and larger cave faces the
east, measures 30 feet in width and about 18
feet in height at the mouth and extends
inwards for a distance of 50 feet. Across the
mouth are the remains of a well built wall of
stone and sandy clay, which at one time may
have closed the opening completely. The
wall, which has a slight batter, is 5 feet
6 inches thick and rises to a height of
4 feet 6 inches in parts. Near the middle is
a doorway 4 feet in width on the outside and
broadening to 4 feet 5 inches on the inside.
This doorway has been built up at a later date,
for a height of 3 feet, with a wall 2 feet 3 inches
thick at the base and 1 foot 5 inches at the top.
In the north side of this entrance are two
barholes 5 inches in breadth and 7 inches in
height ; the lower of these, which is placed
2 feet from the ground and 3 feet 4 inches from
the outside, runs 9 feet into the wall ; the other
is dilapidated. At the north end of the wall,
which at this spot contracts to a width of 3
feet, is a gap between the building and the
rock, through which there is a good view to
the east. To the south of the door two recesses
for fires appear in the wall ; the first, which
is square at the back, is 4 feet 6 inches from
23
the door and measures 2 feet 5 inches in width,
2 feet 2 inches in height and 1 foot 10 inches
in depth ; the second, which is rounded at the
back and 1 foot 2 inches from the first, is 2
feet wide, 2 feet 1 inch high and 1 foot 8 inches
deep. Both are provided with flutes, that from
the first fireplace being carried vertically in
the wall for 11 inches, then diagonally to the
south-east for 5 feet 10 inches, when it emerges
on the outside of the wall 10 feet from the
door and 5 feet above the foundation of the
wall ; the second flue seems to have been
carried almost vertically to the top of the wall.
At a distance of 10 inches south of the last
fireplace is a recess 3 feet in length and 1 foot
1 inch in depth, the wall terminating at the
south end of the recess. A space 3 feet in
width and paved with flat stones is left between
the wall and the rock. In front of this opening
is a large rock parallel to the wall leaving a
paved passage between the wall and the rock,
which narrows from 2 feet in the interior to 1 foot
in width at the north end. A large block of
sandstone built into the jamb of the first fire-
place has evidently been used for sharpening
tools. The south-eastern portion of the floor
of the cave, which dips to the south and east,
has been levelled up and paved with large flat
stones.
This cave, which was almost entirely filled
with blown sand, was excavated in 1908, when
the above structure was laid bare. To prevent
further destruction the top of the wall was
slightly restored by " stepping," and the whole
structure was pointed with cement.
The second cave, which lies about 30 yards
west of the first, faces north. Before ex-
cavation the mouth, which is now 30 feet in
breadth and 7 feet in height, was completely
blocked with sand. This cave continues east-
wards from the mouth till only a thickness of
10 feet of rock separates it from the inner end
of the first cave. It shows a length from east
to west of 47 feet while the breadth is 23 feet.
The roof slopes rapidly from the mouth, so
that less than two-thirds of the area could be
occupied.
The relics recovered during the excavation of
the caves betokened an early occupation. The
few fragments of pottery found included
several pieces of so-called Samian ware. Two
fragments of glass armlets were recovered, one |
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DIRLETON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DIRLETON.
of an opaque white colour and the other of a
clear greenish glass with a twisted blue and
white moulding running round it. Deer-horn
picks, a ringheaded pin of bronze, the end of a
pin, a whorl, and a dumb-bell shaped object
[marginal note]
* See Curle, Newstead,
p. 150.
of bone, some fragments of iron including a
tanged knife, and the upper half of a rotatory
quern were also found.
Cf. Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xliii., p. 243 plans
and figs.
ii. N.W. 11 November 1913.
CAIRNS.
30. Cairns, Black Rocks, Gullane.-For
about 2 miles north-east of Gullane the links
bordering the sea-shore are broken up by
numerous gullies excavated down to the under-
lying 20 feet raised beach by the prevailing
westerly winds, which have piled up ridges
of high sand dunes on either side of the hollows.
Opposite the black rocks, and immediately to
the south-east of the poles marking the eastern
extremity of the " measured mile " for steam-
ship trials, is one of the largest of these hollows
running in an easterly direction. In the centre
of this gully is a ridge 20 to 30 yards in width,
extending from the edge of the raised beach,
which is here some 100 yards from the high
water mark, for a considerable distance inland.
Across the whole width of the hollow and for
more than 100 yards eastwards are numerous
small cairns, as many as forty being visible,
many of which, measuring from 9 to 15 feet
in diameter, impinge on one another. Some
of the cairns are oval on plan, and one of the
largest, which lies about 60 yards from high
water mark and below the 20 feet beach,
measures 20 feet by 13 feet. When this cairn
was excavated in March 1908 it was found to
contain five human skeletons. A spiral finger
ring of bronze and a knife dagger of iron,
7 inches in length, betokening an Early Iron
Age date were also recovered. The majority
of the cairns were destroyed by a crowd sub-
sequent to the excavation of the first cairn.
In an adjoining gully to the north-east are
groups of similar cairns.
Cf. Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot. vol. xlii., p. 332.
ii. S.W. 13 November 1913.
24
31. Cairns, West Links, Gullane.-About
600 yards south of Eyebroughy, in a wind-
swept gully bordered by sand dunes , is a group
of small cairns on the 20 feet raised beach, the
nearest being about 50 yards from high water
mark. Two roughly parallel rows of these
cairns stretch in an easterly direction for 20
yards, the rows being in no place more than
3 feet apart. Five cairns at least are seen
in the southern row and six in the adjoining
row. Several more appear to the south-west,
but many of these have been disturbed.
Farther to the east in the same gully a dry
stone wall is built in a tortuous line dis-
appearing into and reappearing from the base
of the sand dunes. Probably it may have been
a wall enclosing the point of land opposite
Eyebroughy, as the end of a similar wall is
seen on a sand-hill some distance eastward on
the shore. To the south-east of the wall
numerous fragments of green glazed pottery
(? mediaeval) have been found.
In a hollow to the south-west is a small
circular cairn chiefly composed of small stones
with a few of larger size intermixed, 12 feet
in diameter and 1 foot in height. It has a
small hollow on the summit and probably has
been robbed.
Some distance to the west are the remains
of other small cairns, which were excavated
in 1902. Some of these contained a cist, in
which fragments of pottery were found ; but
apparently they had been previously distributed.
One undisturbed cairn was found to cover an
oval-shaped grave about 4 feet in length, 3 feet
in breadth and 3 feet in depth, built of moder-
ately sized stones. Three adult human skeletons
were found on the floor. Outside the northern
end of the grave but under the cairn four
human skulls and other skeletal remains were
found.
About 300 yards south-west of this place a
kitchen midden was examined in 1908. Many
fragments of pottery, apparently of the Bronze
Age, were found, as well as a few implements
of flint and bone. Portions of red deer horns,
fragments of bones of various animals, pieces
of crab-claws and many shells were recovered.
Whelks and limpets greatly predominated, but
oysters and mussels were well represented. |
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DIRLETON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN -- [DUNBAR.
Cf. Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot., xxxvi., p. 654,
xlii., p. 308 ff.
ii. S.W. and ii. N.W. 13 November 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
32. "Castle Tarbet," Fidra.-A rocky arm
projects towards the south-east of the island
from which it is separated at high tide. It
terminates in a flat-topped columnar rock,
which rises some 40 feet above the high water
level. A rough track leads round the south
face of this rock and winds up to the summit on
the east. Along the one side of this track, as
it mounts to the summit, are the remains of a
mortar-built wall, which has probably formed
a parapet. On the summit there are no visible
remains of buildings, though there are sugges-
tions of foundations. Cf. Introd. p. xli.
ii. N.W. 4 August 1913.
33. Cave, Fidra.-On the south face of
the rock some distance above high water mark
and on the level of the path is a small cave or
rock shelter with a comparatively modern wall
of dry masonry loosely built across the mouth
of it. In the interior there is over 2 feet depth
of soil on the floor immixed with refuse, and
more than a foot down a thick deposit of shells
and burnt earth. From a slight excavation
there were recovered three small fragments
of green glazed pottery belonging to two
different vessels and apparently mediæval.
ii. N.W. 4 August 1913.
34. Armorial Bearings, &c., Congalton.-
In the north wall of the barn at Congalton
Gardens, which are one mile in a direct line
north-west of East Fortune station, a late
armorial panel is inserted. It is 21 inches broad
and 25 inches high. The shield is treated per
pale ? and charged with dexter, in what corre-
sponds to the first quarter, a bend flanked on
the sinister side by a label of three points above
a diapered fess between two cotises compony,
with the same device repeated below, where
however the bend lies between the label and the
fess; and sinister, on a saltire an escutcheon
bearing within a bordure a lion rampant and
surmounted by a crown above a griffin rampart.
25
This appears to be, on the dexter, a careless
[marginal note]
Bannatyne's [Nimnide]
p. 359.
version of the arms of Congalton of that ilk,
which were, Quarterly, 1st and 4th, argent a
bend gules and over all a " lambel of three
points sable " (Douglas), 2nd and 3rd, argent
a fess sable between two cotises compony azure
and sable (or argent and azure-Nesbit). The
griffin is probably for Lauder, as Robert
Congalton, who was concerned as a Jacobite
in the Fifteen, married a daughter of Sir John
Lauder of Fountainhall. The shield is sur-
mounted by a helm and mantling ; over all is
a scroll bearing the Congalton motto "(Magn)a
in parvo."
Elsewhere in the neighbouring walls are
architectural details from the old house of
Congalton, which has disappeared. These
fragments date from the late 16th or early
17th century. One of these is a waterspout
or gargoyle, which is suggestive of a tower,
while a scrolled skewput gives evidence of a
17th century addition.
DOVECOT.-South of the gardens is a dovecot
c. 16th century, which is circular on plan and
has a diameter of 15 feet. It is built of rubble
and has been harled ; the upper portion is
not original and is furnished with a curious
capping surmounted by a flêche of brick and
timber.
On the Congaltons of Congalton see Introd.
p. xxiv.
v. N.E. 29 May 1920.
SITE.
The O.S. map indicates the following site:-
35. Tumulus, at the cross-roads about 1/4
N. of Fenton Barns. v. N.W.
DUNBAR.
CASTELLATED AND MUNICIPAL STRUCTURES.
36 Dunbar Castle.-On a very bold and
exposed site, adjoining the new harbour to the
north of the town, the fragmentary remains of
Dunbar Castle are scattered over a rock
standing 80 feet above the sea, which
surrounds the site on three sides to-day and
originally cut it off almost entirely from the
mainland. On the east a large freestanding
mass, naturally cleft, is made continuous by |
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DUNBAR.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DUNBAR.
masonry and on this the castle proper stood ;
an isolated and precipitous rock 25 yards to
the south-west is surmounted by a great
battery and united to the castle by a massive
screen wall of masonry containing a mural
passage giving communication between these
portions. The rock is a brown basalt,
fissured and caverned by the water. The
remains of building yearly become less,
since no attempt at conservation is made.
The main portion of the site has been
cleft to provide an entrance to the new
harbour, and in this operation portions of
the castle buildings may have been destroyed.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 62.-Sketch of Dunbar Castle from Miller's Dunbar (1830) (No. 36).
The remains appear to be those of a castle
with gatehouse and a walled enceinte. The
masonry is of the local red freestone, ashlar
faced and rubble cored. The gatehouse is of
a 15th century type and probably is what is
left of the ' barbican ' then erected. The
numerous gunloops are evidence of a relatively
late date. Miller1 gives the dimensions of the
main portion as 165 feet from east to west
with a length of 207 feet from north to south.
The isolated battery is inaccessible, for the
connecting passage, which is 69 feet long, is
broken. This must be the early 16th century
" blockhouse " referred to below. The struc-
ture is roughly octagonal on plan and measures
54 feet by 60 feet within walls 8 feet thick,
which are recessed to form gun emplacements.
These have gun ports 4 feet wide externally,
diminishing to 16 inches at daylight. Grose
(1798) and Miller (1830) in their illustrations
26
show the curtains terminating in salient
circled and angular towers, which are said by
Miller to have had communication with the
sea, and to " dip low in many places " (fig. 62).
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The importance of the
Dunbar position is obvious. The castle
covered the most convenient landing on the
coast beyond Berwick, and after Berwick
became finally English in 1483 that import-
ance was intensified for Scotland. But the
present ruins do not quite represent either the
castle for the possession of which a battle was
fought with the army of Edward I. in 1297 or
that defended against the Earl of Salisbury for
[illustration continued]
FIG. 62.-Sketch of Dunbar Castle from Miller's Dunbar (1830) (No. 36).
five months in 1338 by ' Black ' Agnes,
Countess of Dunbar. On the latter occasion
the place was blockaded on the sea side by
two great galleys and other smaller ships, but
Sir Alexander Ramsay, on a stormy night,
slipped through in a vessel from the Bass with
food and reinforcements.2 Experience showed
that the stronghold had been serviceable mainly
to English invaders or to rebellious lords in
league with that country. Therefore, after the
example on this line given by the Duke of
Albany and Earl of March, brother of James
III., it was in 1487 annexed to the Crown and
in 1488 ordered by Parliament to be " cassyne
doune and alutterly distroyit in sic wise that
ony fundment tharof be occasioun of biging
nor raparacione of the said castell in tyme to
cum."3 But this policy, of course, worked
both ways. It did not present the invader with
a fortified position, but neither did if provide |
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DUNBAR.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [DUNBAR.
the defender with a fortified position where one
was required ; it only left open a sea-gate to
the Lothians. Therefore, when war occurred
in 1496, James IV. found it advisable again to
construct a castle at Dunbar. On 10 March
1497 Sir Andrew Wood got £5 to buy lime
for the building of Dunbar. Early in April the
King himself was at the place and quarriers
were at work preparing stones, clearing the
site that the masons might get to work and
" wynning " the well. The mason work was
in the hands of Walter Merlioune, one of a
family of masons employed by the King, and
in April the " forwork " was in hand. During
April payments were being made to Sir Andrew
Wood for the work at Dunbar. Roofing beams
for " Hannis toure," and other beams and
rafters were being bought and forwarded to
the building. Hans was one of the King's
gunners, a Dutchman apparently. In May,
gate nails and " dowbil byspikars " for the
" yettis," door nails, and " gret wraklin nalis "
were being provided, with 200 " seme and
ruffis " i.e. bolts and rivets for " the yet of
Dunbar," while Thom Barker had to go down
to take the measure of the iron gate " to mak
it." The doors were hung by " bands " on
" crukis " of iron. A chamber was built after
the measurements of the King's chambers at
Edinburgh. There was also a pended or
vaulted Hall. In August Hans Tower was
being roofed. Not, however, till 1501, when
the buildings apparently were completed, do
we hear of the " iron windows " being got
ready. A chapel dedicated to St. John was
also built.4
In the next reign Dunbar Castle was possessed
by John, Duke of Albany, " Governor of
Scotland " during the minority of James V.
He is said to have been built " in the samin ane
great stane house and insche callit the uttwart
blokehouse and garnist it with artaillze pulder
and bullattis."5 This ' blockhouse ' may be
identified with the round structure (marked
" Fort " on the O.S. map) on what would
have been an isolated mass (" insche "=
island) before being linked up with the rest by
a bridge. In 1547 the English considered the
occupation of Dunbar as an alternative to
Haddington (cf. Introd. p. xxiv) : it was later
urged by Lord Grey that " a great part of
Dunbar town is beyond danger of shot, and if
27
fortified may ' inrynge the castle and some part
mak it.' "6 In 1558 it was reported that " the
castle is old, full of old buildings, and whoever
is stronger on land could batter it with 10 or
12 pieces and gain it."7 But in the spring of
1560 the castle was refortified by the French
and was thereafter declared to be " mare ample
by the dowbill then it was off before and
capable " of 500 men at least more than it
could contain before.8 These French fortifi-
cations were probably in the main of earth,
as might be expected, and had to be destroyed
in accordance with the Treaty of Leith (6 July
1560) where the reference is to " rasing the
new buildings at Dunbar."9 The work was
allotted to East Lothian barons and lairds,
each group of these with their tenants and
vassals accounting for the demolition of so
much, the details of which are specified as
" rampire," counterscrap, " great platfourme,"
" flanker," " blockhowse." Included is the
" ditch from the castle cross (cf. Art. No. 38)
to the captain's garden."10 No houses are
mentioned. It was to the Castle that Queen
Mary fled from the murderers of Riccio ; also
to the same place, Bothwell, who had just been
appointed Keeper, brought the Queen after
seizing her and her company near Edinburgh
(April 24, 1567). Thereafter it was ordered by
Parliament to be demolished ; its recon-
struction had been costly, it was again becoming
ruinous and would require inconvenient ex-
penditure to put in repair, while it was in
any case " unprofitable to the realm and not
able to defend the enemies thereof in case the
same were assaulted."11
Until October 21, 1869, when it was thrown
down by a high gale, there stood on the site
a considerable piece of wall with a large doorway,
above which was a group of panels carved with
arms forming " what must originally have been
a splendid example of mediaeval sculpture."12
The high central panel bore a lion rampant
within a bordure of roses having an elaborate
crest above, which, in 1868, was much decayed
but which Miller says (1830) shows a " horse's
head bridled." On the dexter a shield con-
tained three legs conjoined for the Isle of Man,
while that on the sinister displayed the saltire
and chief of Annandale. As George the 10th
Earl of Dunbar (d. 1416) was the first to bear
the central arms, while Annandale had gone to |
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DUNBAR.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [DUNBAR.
the Douglases when he was restored to his
Scottish possessions in 1409, these bearings can
apply only to him and must therefore have
escaped the destruction of 1488.
1 Miller's Dunbar, p. 4 ; 2 Scotich. Lib.,
xiii., c.xli. ; 3 Acta Parl. Scot. ii., p. 211 ;
4 Accts. Lord High Treas. s.a. ; 5 Pitscottie's
Chronicle of Scotland, S.T.S., vol. I., p. 303 ;
6 Scot. Pap. i., No. 174 ; 7 Ibid, p. 208 ;
8 Ibid, No. 862 ; Cal. St. Pap. For. 1559-60;
pp. 404, 482 ; 9 Scot. Pap. i., No. 855 ; 10 Ibid,
p. 484 ; 11 Act. Parl. iii., p. 33 ; 12 Archaeo-
logical Association Journal (with illustration)
xxv. (1869) p. 344 ff. See also Grose's Anti-
quities of Scotland i., p. 88.
vii. N.W. 25 May 1920.
37. Town House.-Midway along the High
Street on the north side and opposite to the
Edinburgh road, is the Town House, a very
harmonious little composition in the Renaiss-
ance style as rendered in Scotland in the early
17th century, probably about 1620 (fig. 63).
On plan the building is oblong, the major axis
running approximately north and south. From
the west wall there projects to the street a
semi-hexagonal tower containing a staircase on
the two lower storeys and a clock chamber
on the uppermost. The main block is in three
storeys with dormer windows.
The masonry is of the local red freestone
and is built in rubble with polished and
moulded dressings but was originally rough-
cast, remaining so until improvements were
effected on the structure a few years ago, at
which time the little projecting shops or
booths, which had been erected against the
west face, were removed. The lower windows
have been enlarged. The dormers, set one on
each side of the tower, have a quirked edge-roll
on jambs and lintel ; the pediments contain
oval panels. The gabletted crowsteps are un-
usual and noteworthy. The tower is carried
above the wall head level and is divided into
four stages by an intake and stringcourses. The
entrance to the building is through the straight
arched doorway in the north-west face of the
tower. The jambs and arch are simply moulded.
The tower terminates in a very graceful timber
spirelet, the lower portion of which is slated,
the upper sheathed in lead and pierced by oval
28
lucarnes, above which is a weathercock. The
spire is not original. Internally there is little
of interest. The lower portion, which was
the tolbooth, now houses the municipal offices ;
in the council chamber, which lies above, are
painted wooden panels depicting the arms of
the Union. One of these is dated 1686.
SUNDIALS.-The tower bears on two faces
a sundial of stone with copper gnoma.
MISCELLANEOUS.
38. Cross at Town House.-In the south-
eastern re-entering angle there stands a com-
posite "cross" (fig. 63) made up of a 16th century
octagonal shaft with symmetrical cap and base
mouldings, surmounted by three skewputs
bearing grotesque human heads, the whole
crowned by a stone thistle. The fragments of
which this object is composed are in no way
related in date, but the skewputs are probably
relics of the old parish church, which was re-
placed by the present modern structure on the
same site. The shaft may well be that of the
" castle cross " referred to in the historical
note on No. 36.
vii. N.W. 25 May 1920.
39. Sepulchral Monument, Parish Church.-
The parish church, which dates from 1819, re-
placed an earlier building, the collegiate church
of Dunbar on the same site, an eminence at
the south-east end of the main street.
Within the church is a fine mural monument
of Renaissance design (Fig. 2) in memory of
George Hume, Earl of Dunbar, Lord High
Treasurer or Chief Treasurer of Scotland and
Chancellor of the Exchequer in England1 who
died in 1611.
1 Act. Parl. Scot., iv.,p. 293.
vii. S.W. 25 May 1920.
40. Lochend.-Within the grounds of Loch-
end House near the south lodge are the frag-
ments of a two-storeyed 17th century mansion.
Some 20 feet of the lateral walls are standing to
the wall-head, as well as the gable, from which
projects a semi-octagon not unlike a modern
oriel. The gable is continued as a courtyard |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 63.-Town House, Dunbar (No. 37).
To face p. 28. |
|
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DUNBAR.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN -- [GARVALD & BARA.
wall for a distance of 34 1/2 feet, where it is
pierced by a fine Renaissance gateway dated
1684.
HERALDIC PANEL.-On a panel lying beside
the gateway is carved an heraldic achievement.
Beneath a heavy crest and mantling is a shield
charged with nine stars (the Baillie arms) and
below is the legend SEDES DENT FATA QUIETAS
("May the fates give a quit seat") and the
initials I B.
SUNDIAL.-Adjoining the panel is the head
of a sundial of the facet-headed type containing
12 dials.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The initials recorded
above are no doubt those of James Baillie
entered in 1640 as heir to his father Sir Gideon
Baillie knight baronet of Lochend.1 By 1671
the property had fallen to an heiress, grand-
daughter of James Baillie,2 and in 1680 lands
and barony were in possession of John Sinclair
of Longformacus.3
1 Inquis. Spec. i. Hadd. No. 184 ; 2 Ibid,
305, 306 ; 3 Ibid, 337.
vii. S.W. 27 August 1915.
41. Old Harbour.-The old harbour which
lies to the east of its modern neighbour is a
structure dating at least from the 17th century.
In December 1655 and again in 1658 it suffered
severely from storms.1 Cromwell granted £300
towards defraying the expense of the east pier,
which was begun during the time of the Pro-
tectorate and from this is still known locally
as " Cromwell's Harbour."
1 Miller's Dunbar, p. 241.
vii. N.W. 25 May 1920.
42. Dovecot.-In a field named the "Friar's
Croft " to south of a street still known
locally as the " Friars' Vennel " at the
western end of the burgh, through which passes
the old road from Edinburgh to Berwick, is a
dovecot of unusual form (fig. 22), which is ob-
viously the only remnant of the Red or Trinity
Friars at Dunbar, being the tower, found in
many churches of friars between the choir and
nave (fig. 64). So much is suggested by the roof
raggles. It is further clear that the tusking of
the side walls has been cleared off and the
corners spliced. Close examination shows that
arched openings in the east and west sides have
29
been built up, and that there was an earlier
entrance on the south side, rising above the
present door. This would have served for
access to the cloister. The nests for pigeons
have been inserted. On plan the structure is
oblong with its major axis approximately north
and south and measuring exteriorly 27 feet 3
inches by 12 feet. The east and west walls are
skewed to receive the high pitched roofs of the
once adjoining buildings and ter-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 64.-Tower
of Carmelite
Church as Dove-
cot, Dunbar
(No. 42).
minate some 30 feet above ground
level in a tower oblong on plan,
borne interiorly on heavy semi-
circular arches with moulded
imposts.
This house of friars was
suppressed apparently prior to
the Reformation ; a charter of
1558 granted to James Hume in
Dunbar 3 1/2 acres called " lie Freir-
croft." (R.M.S. (1580) No. 3037)
viii. N.W. 27 August 1915.
43. Dovecot, Bielside.-A late 17th century
dovecot stands on this property close top the
main street of West Barns. It is rectangular
on plan and measures 15 by 15 1/4 feet over walls
and about 25 feet in greatest height. The walls
are rubble built and have been harled ; the
flanks are crowstepped and the roof is slated.
[marginal note]
Early xtion (?) falls
at Dunbar. see Twires.
Cronilogy of Scotland,
pt. ii. p. 229.
vi. S.E. 5 January 1924.
GARVALD AND BARA.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
44. Parish Church.-The parish church is
situated at the eastern extremity of the village
of Garvald. It is an oblong on plan measuring
53 feet 2 inches from east to west and 24 1/2 feet
from north to south ; modern additions pro-
ject from the north, east and west walls. At a
height of 8 1/2 feet above the ground a Norman
string-course returns along the north and west
walls. The masonry on the north wall below
this course is early cubical ashlar work. The
structure is built of the local red freestone.
From its dimensions and the presence of
Norman detail it may be inferred that the
building dates from the end of the 12th century. |
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GARVALD & BARA.]HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.[GARVALD & BARA.
SUNDIAL.-On the south wall is a well-
designed dial of white freestone 1 foot 10 inches
square inscribed in relief GEORGE FA FECIT
ANNO 1633.
JOUGS.-A pair of wrought-iron jougs com-
plete with the padlock in good preservation
are attached to the west gable.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The church of Garvald
belonged to the nunnery at Haddington.
Archaeol. Scot. i., p. 109. Reg. Mag. Sig.
(1458) No. 610.
xi. S.W. 25 July 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURE.
[marginal note]
Early xtions(!)
Cemetery at Nunraw
see Turner, Canis.
[?] of Scotland. pt. ii,
p. 230. P.S.A.S.,
vol. xl.pp. 328-42
45. Nunraw.-Nunraw stands 1/2 mile
east of Garvald village on the shoulder of a
foothill of the Lammermuirs and overlooks
the valley of the Papana Water. It is mainly
modern, but there is a mediaeval nucleus over-
laid and obscured by a mid-19th century
restoration and addition save at the north-
eastern angle, where a late 16th century tower
rises above the stable court. The portion of
the main building which lies south of this tower
is outwardly modern, but its arrangement on
plan suggests that it is contemporary with the
tower and also that the original structure was
built on a Z-plan (fig. 65) consisting of a main
block which measured over walls 60 feet 9 inches
from east to west by 29 feet 6 inches from north
to south and had an oblong tower 25 feet 6 inches
broad projecting outwardly 23 feet 2 inches
from the north-east and a second 25 feet 3
inches broad projecting 22 feet from the south-
west angle. The north-west re-entering angles
are occupied by wheel staircases within circled
towers. This plan is identical with that of
Hatton Castle, Forfarshire, which was built in
1575.
The building is four storeys in height below
a continuous parapet walk, which returns
around the structure, above which level there
is an attic storey in the roof. That the square
projecting towers should have parapet walks
is usual in the period, but that the walk
originally returned also round the main block
is unlikely. On the ground floor the main
block has a vaulted passage running long-
itudinally from the west staircase against the
south wall to a doorway in the east wall ;
from this passage access is obtained to the
30
ground floor of the south tower and to three
vaulted chambers on the north ; a second
passage leads off to the north staircase, from
which the lowest floor on the north tower is
entered. This tower alone remains in an
approximately unrestored condition. The two
lowest floors are vaulted. It is built of
the local freestone rubble with dressed quoins,
while the remainder of the building is of
modern ashlar. At the three exterior angles
open rounds project, borne on an enriched but
debased corbel course, the upper portion of
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 65.-Nunraw (No. 45).
which contains irregular quadrangular panels,
while the lower member is coarsely reeded or
cabled. The corbel course below the parapet
walk consists of corbels set chequay of larger
size than usual.
PAINTED CEILING.-On the first floor in an
apartment adjoining the tower immediately on
the south there is a ceiling of oak, the joists
and boarding of which are decorated in tempera.
(fig. 66). The wood was prepared with a light
plaster surface and the colours were laid on
with a lime wash. The centreing of the joists
varies from 22 to 30 inches, and the boards are
fastened with broad-headed nails. Eleven nine-
inch joists are laid out in short panels enclosed
by coloured lines, which interlace each other at
several points and in different ways, and the
panels have a running ornament of white or
red and black or yellow alternatively. The ten
compartments of flooring thus enclosed, varying
from 12 to 16 inches in breadth, are margined
with a guilloche border of red upon yellow,
within which is a miscellaneous profusion of
coloured ornament including birds, beasts,
characteristic late 16th century bunches
of grapes, apples and pears with foliage, |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 66.-Painted Ceiling, Nunraw (No. 45).
To face p. 31. |
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GARVALD & BARA.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [GARVALD & BARA.
musical instruments-a drum, shawms crossed
viol and lute-muskets, gauntlets, human heads
&c. Certain elements such as the knobs,
animal skull, shield-like cartouche, bow and
quiver of arrows, fruits, &c., closely resemble
those on one of the pilasters of the monument
to Louis XII. (died 1515) at St. Denis ; while
one or two appear on the plinth panels of the
Lauderdale tomb in St. Mary's, Haddington
(No. 68) which is of the early 17th century.
Horizontally the ground is divided by two
rows of shields bearing the arms of the Kings
of Scotland, England, France, Spain, Naples,
Aragonne, Sicily, Denmark and other countries.
Each shield is upheld by a pair of nude,
winged, boyish figures. In the middle of the
seventh panel from the dexter a lion and a
unicorn sit as supporters to a thistle under
a royal crown. If this be taken heraldically
it may indicate, and very likely does, a date
later than the union of 1603, the unicorn at
dexter for Scotland and lion at sinister for
England being the Scottish version of the royal
supporters. Near the top of the third com-
partment is a tilted shield of fantastic shape
overlaying a bow and quiver of arrows and
displaying in monogram the initials P.H.C.
obviously those of Patrick Hepburn and
Helen Cockburn his wife referred to below.
This with the character of the ornament fixes
the execution of the design at some time at
the end of the 16th or early in the 17th century,
when such decorated ceilings were in favour,
other examples of which have been found in
Collairnie Castle and Aberdour Castle, Fife, in
Cessnock Castle, Ayrshire and elsewhere.1 In
the compartment next to that containing the
initials are the words GRATUS EST. The portion
of the ceiling still in position is 20 feet 3 inches
long by 17 feet 6 inches wide, but two other
sections are preserved in the National Museum
of Antiquities. A lady's head and shoulders
in a circular panel show a ruff and gown cut
square at the neck, costume conformable to
the period given above. From these portions
much of the colour has disappeared.
The painted ceiling was exposed in 1864 on
the removal of a lath and plaster ceiling below
of late date.
DOVECOT.-Some 50 yards north of the house
is a 16th century dovecot circular on plan, rising
22 feet in four tiers to a modern cupola (fig. 23).
31
SUNDIAL.-On the lawn south of the house
is a 17th century sundial of multi-dialled type.
At base there is a square pedestal on which
rests an octagon, bearing a polyhedron. Each
facet comprises a dial; the four main facets of
the uppermost member contain cupped dials.
INCISED CROSS.-On the keystone of an arch-
way in the north wall of the stable court is
incised a circle containing an incised cross of
six arms formed by intersecting arcs meeting
at a central point.
CAPITAL.-Against the entrance to the
stable court is a block of freestone on which
a moulded capital for a wall shaft is partially
wrought. The mouldings resemble 15th cen-
tury work, but the stone may be a reject
dating only from the restoration.
BELFRY.-The entrance to the stable court
is surmounted by a 17th century belfry oc-
tagonal on plan.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In 1547 when an English
invasion was imminent, Elizabeth, Prioress of
Haddington, undertook to the Privy Council
" the cuire and keeping of the place and
fortalice of Nunraw " with an obligation to
keep the same " fra our auld ynemeis of Ingland
and all utharis " and deliver it to nobody
without the Governor's command, or raze it if
there is no alternative.2 Nevertheless the
" Nunne-rowe " fell into the hands of Lord
Grey of Wilton in the following year and was
kept for the English by laird of Brunstone.3
The estate of Nunraw was alternatively
known as Whitecastle4 and was transferred by
Elizabeth Hepburn, the last prioress of the
nunnery of Haddington, to the Hepburns of
Beanston, a junior branch of the Hailes family.
In 1565, 1566 and 1580 we have Patrick
Hepburn of " Quhicastell " son of John
Hepburn of Beanston.5 He died in November
1583. In 1595 appear Patrick Hepburn of
Whitecastle and Helen Cockburn his wife and
in 1615 Patrick Hepburn alias Nunraw.7 This
Patrick of Beanston and Whitecastle or Nun-
raw in 1617 granted to his son John, on the
occasion of his marriage, various lands in-
cluding Easter and Wester Nunraw.8 Pat.
Hepburn of Nunraw is on a list of heritors in
East Lothian in 1685 preserved among the
estate papers at Eaglescairnie.
The " raw " or " row " indicates a hamlet
or line of houses. |
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GARVALD & BARA.]HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.[GARVALD & BARA.
1 See Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vol. xxxviii
(1903-4), p. 151 ff. 2 Reg. P.C. i., p. 82 ; 3
Scottish Papers, i., Nos. 168, 174 ; 4 Laing
Charters, No. 722 ; 5 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. Nos.
1602, 1753, 62 ; 6 R.M.S. s.a., No. 301 ; 7
Ib., s.a., No. 1234 ; 8 Ib., s.a., No. 1595.
xi. S.W. 29 August 1919.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
46. Hill Fort, " Green Castle," Newlands.-
At an elevation of 950 feet above sea level,
some 500 yards south-south-east of " Black
Castle " fort (No. 50) and about a mile east-
south-east of Newlands steading, is a natural
plateau (fig. 12) on the steep right bank of the
Newlands burn, rising about 6 feet above the
terrain to the south-east and 45 feet above a
narrow haugh on the north. The plateau is
triangular in shape with the apex lying to the
north-east and the base towards the Newlands
burn on the south-west. Around the perimeter
there has been a stone wall, which is almost
obliterated except on the south-western side
and at the western angles ; at these latter
sections the wall, now sod-covered, is 12 feet
broad at base and rises 10 feet above the
interior of the fort. The area enclosed meas-
ures 225 feet from south-west to north-east by
190 feet along the south-western side. The
entrance, which is 20 feet wide, is in the north-
eastern angle.
The plateau is steeply scarped on all sides
and is further protected by an outer defence
(fig. 67), a great ditch and counterscarp carried
round the work ; on the south-western side,
where the deeply worn course of the Newlands
burn is sufficient protection, the artificial ditch
is discontinued, while the steep farther bank
of the burn forms a natural counterscarp,
which is strengthened by a ditch beyond,
12 feet broad and 5 feet deep, that follows the
line of the stream for a distance of about 60
yards in front of the fort. This line of outer
defences is not continuous. On the north-west
it commences 20 feet back from the bank of the
stream and returns eastward and round the
north-eastern angle, where it dies out in a slight
cleugh ; it is carried from the farther side of this
cleugh in a south-westerly direction until it
approaches the Newlands burn.
On the northern section of the outworks the
ditch lies 26 feet below the summit and is
32
12 feet wide ; on the counterscarp is a rampart
12 feet broad at base, rising 5 feet above the
bottom of the trench and 24 feet above the
haugh. On the north-east a ditch 9 feet wide,
6 1/2 feet deep on the scarp and 2 feet deep on
the counterscarp has been formed beyond the
rampart to cut off a spur that rises gradually
from the haugh.
On the eastern side the main ditch is 20 feet
wide, 18 feet deep on the scarp and 11 feet deep
on the counterscarp. The counterscarp bears
a rampart 10 feet wide and about a foot high,
built for half its length some 8 feet out from
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 67.-Green Castle (No. 46).
the edge of the ditch and so forming a rough
banquette or platform ; beyond the rampart is
an outer ditch 12 feet wide, 6 1/2 feet deep on the
scarp and 3 feet deep on the counterscarp,
which follows the line of the rampart from the
cleugh until it approaches the burn, where it
swings sharply southward and encloses what
may be a mound 8 feet by 12 feet before dying
out on the right bank of the burn.
On the farther side of the cleugh and opposite
the north-eastern angle of the plateau a trench,
30 yards in length, 6 feet in breadth and 1 foot
in depth with a rampart 7 feet in breadth rising
1 foot above the bottom of the trench, has been
constructed across the face of a promontory on
the higher ground facing this part of the fort.
This trench is interrupted at one place by the
lie of the ground.
Within the fort and towards the southern
corner are foundations of small structures, |
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GARVALD & BARA.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [GARVALD & BARA.
which are possibly secondary ; one has been
rectangular, the others are roughly circular.
xv. S.W. 17 May 1913.
47. Fort, Kingside Rig near West Hopes.-
This fort is situated near the crest of the ridge
between Soonhope Burn and Hopes Water, some
600 yards west-north-west of West Hopes and
about the same distance east-south-east of
Harelaw Fort, at an elevation of 1200 feet above
sea-level. The hill slopes with a gentle fall to
the north-east but the flanks are very steep
especially to the south, where there is a descent
of some 400 feet in 500 yards to the Hopes
Water. The
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 68.-Fort, Kingside Rig
(No. 47).
fortified area,
which encroach-
es on the Yester
parish bound-
ary, is irregular
in shape and has
been surround-
ed by a stone
wall, many of
the outer facing
foundation
stones being
still in situ. It
has been badly
misused, and
as the bulk of the stones have been re-
moved, and several gaps have been made right
down to the foundations, it is difficult to as-
certain definitely what was the original plan
of the structure at certain parts. The longer
axis lies north-east and south-west and the area
measures internally 188 feet by 168 feet (fig. 68).
The single wall which surrounds it is 9 feet
broad at the base and rises 4 feet at most above
the interior. Outside this wall on the western
side, which is most easily assailed, there
is a trench 16 feet wide, 4 feet deep on
the scarp, and 2 feet on the counterscarp. At
the southern corner, where there is a con-
siderable gap, the wall on the south-east
is carried beyond the line of the south-western
wall, while a very large gap has been made at
the north-western corner through which the
parish boundary runs. There are also two
smaller gaps on the south-eastern side. The
original entrance to the north-east is marked
33
on its north side by two large stones
and it seems to have been about 10 feet wide.
Impinging on the inside of the wall to the
east of the large gap on the north-west are
the stony foundations of a hut circle 20 feet in
diameter, which appears to have been entered
from the east. Between it and the north-
eastern entrance other foundations are seen,
but these are too fragmentary to determine
the size and form of the structures. In the
northern segment of the fort are two hut circles
measuring respectively about 10 and 12 feet
in diameter. Some 16 feet along the south-
eastern wall from the entrance are the foun-
dations of a stone wall 4 feet broad running a
distance of 67 feet towards the centre of the
fort, and 48 feet farther along a second similar
foundation can be traced for 30 feet. There
is some evidence that the latter may have
been continued farther and carried round to
meet the former so as to form a four-sided
enclosure. About 48 feet from the southern
corner the foundations of another stone wall,
now spread over a width of 7 feet and rising
about 2 feet in height, appear to run for a
distance of over 20 feet into the interior.
xv. S.E. 15 May 1913.
48. Hill Fort, Park Burn, Newlands.-
In a field of permanent pasture near the north-
eastern and lower end of a gradually sloping
ridge with steep sides below Dod Law, some
300 yards south-east of the plantations known
as Park Strips and at an elevation of 950 feet
above sea-level, is a quadrangular fort, with
rounded angles, occupying the whole breadth
of the crest of the ridge. It is rather broader at
the south-western than at the north-eastern
end. The main axis runs north-east and south-
west and internally the area measures 190 feet
in length by 156 feet in breadth about the
middle. The interior of the fort is surrounded
by a low rampart of earth almost obliterated for
the greater part. At the south-western end,
the best preserved portion, it rises at most
about 1 foot above the inner level and is spread
over a width of 20 feet. This is succeeded by a
second rampart now almost levelled to the
ground, which crosses the ridge and returns at
the ends to join the inner mound. The distance
between the crests of these mounds is 37 feet.
The next defence is an earthen rampart 16 feet
3 |
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GARVALD & BARA.]HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.[GARVALD & BARA.
broad at the base and 6 1/2 feet higher than the
ditch inside it, which is 7 feet broad and 1 foot
deep. This rampart begins about 20 feet from
the edge of the ridge at the western corner
of the fort and, at a distance of 26 feet from
the centre of the last, is carried across the
south-western end and along the south-eastern
flank, 5 1/2 feet lower than the inner one, on the
edge of the natural escarpment, which here falls
22 feet ; but the mound is greatly destroyed
on this flank. Outside this rampart across the
south-western end a broad ditch 19 feet wide
has been excavated, the depth on the scarp
being 9 feet and on the counterscarp 5 1/2 to 6 1/2
feet. A stone wall had occupied the top of
the counterscarp, but the greater part of it has
been swept away. However, for some 30 yards
towards the eastern corner it is clearly defined,
rising 1 1/2 feet above the outer level. It is
continued along the south-eastern flank at
the bottom of the natural escarpment, its
breadth at the base being 9 feet, the
height on the inside 1 foot and on the outside
4 feet. Along the north-western flank and
north-eastern end no other defences but the
almost obliterated inner rampart can be traced.
Further defences would seem to have been
necessary across the ridge at the north-eastern
end, but the plough has swept away all traces
of any such there. There is a suggestion of an
entrance at the western corner round the end
of the outer ramparts and through the inner,
where it seems to have been about 12 feet in
width.
xvi. S.W. 16 May 1913.
49. Hill Fort, No. 2, Park Burn, Newlands.-
Some 400 yards north-east of the last site, in
an adjoining grass field, on rolling ground and
at an elevation of 900 feet above sea-level, are
the fragmentary remains of an entrenchment.
Situated on the top of the steep left bank of
a tiny stream, 50 yards from where it joins
the Park Burn, all that remains is a rampart
17 feet wide at the foundations, rising 2 feet
above the inner level and 6 feet above the
outer level. This rampart, springing from the
edge of the bank of the stream 20 feet above
its bed, curves round from the south-east by
the south and west to the north-west, where
there is an entrance 15 feet broad. For about
30 feet beyond this, the rampart, though much
34
reduced, is still traceable. The enclosure had
probably been circular except for a flattened
side along the top of the escarpment on the side
of the burn, and the longest diameter would
be about 84 feet.
xvi. S.W. 16 May 1913.
50. Fort " Black Castle," Newlands.-Round
the summit of a hillock, just inside the south-
east end of the strip of plantation known as
the Black Castle Woods, about 5/8 mile west of
Newlands and at an elevation of 900 feet above
sea-level, is the fort known as the " Black
Castle." It is almost
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 69.-Blackcastle,
Newlands (No. 50).
circular in outline (fig. 69)
and measures 383 feet in
length by 342 feet in
breadth inside, the longer
axes running north-west
and south-east. The
inner defence is formed
by a high stone wall over-
grown with grass, 18 feet
broad at base and rising 5 1/2 feet above
the inner level and 10 feet above the
bottom of a ditch outside, which now is 18 feet
broad and 1 1/2 to 4 1/2 feet on the counter-
scarp. An outer wall 7 feet broad at the found-
ation and 1 1/2 feet high is erected about 8 feet
from the edge of the counterscarp, but for some
distance round the north-east arc it is placed on
the edge of the ditch. Part of the outer wall on
the south-west flank appears on the edge of a
field outside the stone dyke which encloses the
plantation at this place, and a portion of it has
been destroyed in building the dyke. Near
the centre of the west arc and in the south
arc broad gaps 15 feet wide occur in the inner
wall, opposite which the ditch has not been
excavated or has been filled up. The outer
wall having been destroyed at these places, it
is impossible to say definitely if they had been
entrances, but this seems improbable, as some
of the foundation stones of the inner wall are
still in situ in these gaps. To the south-east,
what looks like an entrance passage some 10
feet wide with a slight wall on either side
2 1/2 feet high, extends for a distance of 42 feet
outwards from the edge of the counterscarp
of the ditch and through the outer wall, which
recurves into the walls of the passage on either
side, but this roadway is not carried over the |
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GARVALD & BARA.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [GARVALD & BARA.
ditch or through the inner wall. An entrance
may have existed at the north-north-west
corner, where is a disused quarry. Immed-
iately to the south-east of the quarry, inside
the fort, there is an oval depression, apparently
surrounded by a stone wall, measuring 45 feet
from east to west and 30 feet from north to
south.
xvi. N.W. 17 May 1913.
51. Hill Fort, Garvald Mains.-This fort
(fig. 70), 150 yards south-west of Garvald Mains,
on the 600 feet contour line, occupies the
summit of a plateau projecting from the high
ground to the
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 70.-Fort, Garvald Mains
(No. 51).
east of the
Papana Water,
which flows past
on the south-
west 150 feet
below. On the
south and west
the ground falls
in a very steep
declivity to the
haugh on the
right bank of
the burn.
Roughly cir-
cular in plan
the enclosure measures 280 feet long by 240
feet broad internally. The hill top has been
scarped all round. A broad stone wall, plun-
dered for building material, 16 feet wide at the
foundation and rising 5 feet above the inner
level and 11 feet above the outer level, is seen
on the eastern side and has been carried along
the north, but this part is much destroyed and
can be seen only in places, where it shows a
breadth of 3 feet and a height of 1 foot above
the level of the interior. On the western side
facing the burn a terrace 12 feet wide has been
cut on the steep natural escarpment 9 1/2 feet
below the interior level. There is an entrance
12 feet wide in the south-eastern arc.
xi. S.W. 22 May 1913.
52. Hill Fort, "White Castle."-This earthen
fort occupies the summit of a peninsular pro-
montory jutting out from the northern slope
of a hill running up to Rangely Kipp, at an
35
elevation of 1000 feet above sea-level, on the
north-east side of the Garvald and Johnscleuch
Road, about 2 miles south-east of the former
place, in the sharp angle formed by the Thorter
Burn on the north and a short feeder on its
left bank to the west. On all sides except at the
narrow neck which joins it to the hill on the
south, the sides of the promontory are steep,
the fall to the Thorter Burn being as much as
130 feet. Oval in outline (fig. 71) with main axis
running north-west and south-east, the fort
measures internally 233 feet in length and 180
feet in breadth. It is most strongly defended
on the southern arc where it would be most
easily assailed.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 71.-Whitecastle (No. 52).
Round the in-
terior of the
fort is a scarp
(fig. 72) which
on the east is
8 1/2 feet in height,
while on each
side of the south-
western en-
trance are the
remains of a
slight rampart.
Some 34 feet
from the latter
there is a ram-
part 22 feet in
breadth at the
base and rising 5 feet in height on the inside,
which, starting from the slight slope on the
south-west, swings round by the south to the
east, whence it is continued as a terrace, with a
scarp outside, some 10 feet broad and 12 feet
lower than the top of the inner scarp, till it
reaches the steep western slope. The next
defence takes the form of a rampart 12 feet in
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 72.-Section, Whitecastle (No. 52).
breadth and rising 1 foot to 4 feet above the
outside level to the south; it follows the plan of
the inner defence in being continued along the
north-eastern arc as a terrace, 7 feet in breadth
and 12 feet lower than the last scarp. But, as it
approaches the north, the rampart re-appears |
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GARVALD & BARA.]HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.[GARVALD & BARA.
and is continued to the north-western slope.
Between the ramparts opposite the narrow neck
at the south a ditch has been dug 20 feet wide,
11 feet deep on the scarp and 5 1/2 feet deep on
the counterscarp. Some 12 feet from the outer
rampart there is the appearance of an outer
ditch, 12 feet wide and 1 foot deep, cut across
the connecting neck of ground for a distance of
76 feet. At the western arc between the
two inner scarps there is a slight terrace with
perhaps two excavated circular hollows dug
out of it. There are two entrances to the fort
10 to 12 feet wide which are carried through all
the defences on the south-west and on the east.
Some 9 feet inside the top of the inner scarp
at the south is a circular earthen foundation,
the internal diameter being 12 feet, the depth
at the centre 9 inches, and the thickness of
the wall 4 feet.
xvi. N.W. 29 May 1913.
53. Rampart and Ditch, Newlands Hill.-
About 600 yards south of Green Castle fort,
across the face of Newlands Hill some 200 yards
from its foot and at an elevation of 1200 feet
above sea-level, is a sinuous ditch with an
earthen wall on the northern or lower side
running for about 150 yards from east to west.
The ditch is 7 to 9 feet broad and 2 to 3 feet
deep and the rampart is 7 to 10 feet broad, 2 to
4 feet above the ditch and 3 to 5 feet above the
slope outside. Towards the eastern end of the
ditch a number of circular hollows, with a
diameter of about 5 feet, some almost contiguous,
are excavated to a depth of 1 foot below the
bottom of the trench.
xvi. S.W. (Unnoted). 5 June 1913.
CAIRNS.
54. Cairn, Whitestone Cairn, Harestone
Hill.-On the summit of Harestone Hill, at an
elevation of over 1500 feet above sea-level, is a
circular cairn of stones measuring 43 feet in
diameter and rising 3 1/2 feet in height at the
centre. Although the cairn on the south-
eastern side has been despoiled of material to
build an adjacent sheep stell and also a sur-
veyor's cairn on the top of the original structure,
the central part does not seem to have been
disturbed. Without excavation it is impossible
36
to say whether the cairn is sepulchral in
character.
xix. N.E. 15 May 1913.
55. Cairn, Darned House.-About 3/4 mile
west of Darned House, and 100 yards north-
north-east of the Gifford and Priestlaw Road,
at an elevation of 1000 feet above sea-level,
on a greatly sloping piece of muirland, is a
cairn measuring 34 feet from east-south-east
to west-north-west and 30 feet across ; it is
3 feet in height towards the northern end
but is denuded at the opposite side. At one
part, where the grassy covering has been broken
into, the cairn is seen to be composed of stones,
which are cracked and broken up into small
pieces.
xvi. N.W. (Unnoted). 7 June 1913.
EXCAVATED HOLLOWS.
56. Small Excavated Hollows.-About a mile
north-east of Whitestone Cairn (No. 54) at
an elevation of about 1400 feet above sea-level
immediately above the brow of the hill over-
looking the Faseny Water from the north-west,
which flows some 200 feet lower and some 400
yards distant, is a series of five small excavated
hollows placed in a straight line, slanting down
the hill in a south-south-easterly direction.
They are situated 12 to 16 yards apart and
measure about 9 feet in length by 7 feet in
breadth, and 1 to 2 feet in depth. The ex-
cavated material has been thrown out to the
lower side making the edge of the hollows
fairly level all round. There is no appearance
of an entrance. They are too close for shooting
butts and seem to belong to the same class
of remains as the hollows near the Harelaw
Fort (No. 254).
xvi. S.W. (Unnoted). 16 May 1913.
57. Rectangular Foundation and Excavated
Hollow, Faseny Water.-Near the base of
the southern side of Newlands Hill, about 200
yards west of the Easter Mossy Burn, 100 yards
north of the Faseny Water and some 40 feet
higher, at an elevation of 1250 feet above sea-
level, is a rectangular area running east and
west, measuring 16 feet in length and 8 feet in
breadth internally and surrounded by a wall 5 |
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GLADSMUIR.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [GLADSMUIR.
feet broad rising 9 inches above outside and 6
inches above inside level. In the centre of
the wall round the eastern end and south-
eastern corner, and at the south-western
corner, large stones are to be seen. About
100 yards to the east and some 10 feet lower
is a circular hollow 10 feet in diameter and 6
inches in depth, the debris which has been
thrown out to the south-east forming a bank
18 inches in height.
xvi. S.W. (Unnoted). 1 July 1913.
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate the following sites:-
58. Bara Church, Linplum x. S.E.
59. Bara Graveyard, Linplum x. S.E.
60. " Linplum," Linplum x. S.E.
61. " Grange " N.E. of Garvald xi. S.W.
62. Cairn, S.E. of Garvald xi. S.W.
63. Fort, near Carfrae xvi. N.W.
GLADSMUIR.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
64. Old Parish Church, Gladsmuir.-The
ruins of the former parish church of Gladsmuir
lie to the north of its successor, within a grave-
yard on the north side of the Edinburgh to
Haddington highway, 3 miles west of the Rail-
way Station at Haddington. The Statistical
Account says that "the church of Gladsmuir was
built by Baillie of Lamington, in the year 1695,
and the parish was then formed by annexations
from the contiguous parishes, Tranent, Had-
dington and Aberlady."1
On plan the building is an oblong. On the
north wall a transeptal aisle opens into the
church by a wide archway with semicircular
head ; the arrises are chamfered and spring
from a simply moulded impost. Two of the
voussoirs project inwards in an unusual manner.
Joist holes in the lateral walls indicate the
position of lofts at the east and west ends of
the church and at the north end of the aisle.
The entrance of the church is in the south wall
and of the aisle in its east wall. Three windows
in the south wall and one in the north wall
37
lit the interior, and there are windows in the
gables above the floor level of the lofts. These
windows are lintelled and have apparently been
provided with outer shutters.
The skew of the west gable is crow-stepped
and is surmounted by a late 17th century
belfry.
The south wall is imperfect, but the other
walls are fairly complete to the wall head some
12 feet above the ground.
From east to west the building measures
externally 71 feet by 25 feet 9 inches ; the
aisle is 24 feet broad and projects 24 feet from
the north wall. The walls are 2 feet 10 inches
thick.
SUNDIAL.-On the south-west angle of the
building is a two-faced sundial dated 1700.
SOCKET-STONE.(?)-On the west side of the
entrance to the churchyard is a regular block
of freestone 2 feet 9 inches by 2 feet 4 inches,
in which an oblong cavity, measuring 1 foot
3 inches by 10 inches, is hollowed out to a
depth of 4 inches. The workmanship is crude.
1 Vol. vii., p. 312.
ix. N.E. 19 May 1913.
65. "John Knox's" Kirk.-Within the gar-
den adjoining Longniddry House, 1/4 of a mile
south-west of Longniddry Station, is a frag-
ment of building of indeterminate age, which is
locally known as "John Knox's Church" and is
so noted on the O.S. map. The building has
been rectangular on plan and oriented; 31 feet
of the north wall, which is 2 3/4 feet in thickness,
remains to a height of 9 feet, as well as several
courses of the west gable return. There are
the jambs of a doorway on the north wall and,
adjoining the doorway, traces of a small
window, which may have had an arched head.
The masonry is of light coloured rubble.
Chalmers writes that this chapel " is popu-
larly called John Knox's Kirk,"1 and this seems
to be the earliest allusion to this idea. M'Crie
expands in the statement that Knox catechised
his youthful pupils " publicly in a chapel at
Longniddrie, in which he also read, at stated
times, a chapter of the Bible accompanied by
explanatory remarks. The memory of this fact
has been preserved by tradition, and the chapel,
the ruins of which are still apparent, is popu-
larly called John Knox's Kirk."2 He refers to |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
Chalmers and also compares the passage in
Knox's Historie of the Reformation, p. 67. On
that page in Crawford's edition we are told the
fathers of Knox's three pupils (Douglas of
Longniddry and Cockburn of Ormiston) solicited
him to take them with him to the Castle of
St. Andrews, to which he was retiring as a
refuge (1547). There he " red untoe thame ane
Catechisme, accompt quhairof he caussit thame
gif publicklie in the Paroche Kirk of St.
Andrews. He red mairover unto thame the
evangell of John, proceiding quhair he left at
his departing from Langniddrie, quhair before
his residence was ; and that lecture he red in
the chapell within the Castell, at a certane
hour."
1 Caledonia iv., p. 525 ; 2 Life of Knox,
(ed. 1839), p. 26.
ix. N.E. 23 March 1920
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate sites as follows:-
66. Gladsmuir Kirk about 1/2 mile N.E. of
Hodges ix. S.E.
67. Longniddry Castle iv. S.E.
HADDINGTON.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
68. Parish Church, Haddington.-The church
of St. Mary the Virgin stands on the left bank
of the Tyne, 150 yards above the Nungate
Bridge and outside the body of the burgh
(cf. Introd. p. xxix). It is cruciform on plan
(fig. 74), comprising an aisled nave of five bays
and an aisled choir of four bays with unaisled
transepts; above the crossing rises a massive
tower. From the north aisle of the choir there
projects the pre-Reformation re-vestry partly
built in the 17th century and since then used as
a burial aisle. The nave has been altered and
restored and is still the parish church ; the
other divisions have become ruinous but are
now conserved by H.M. Office of Works.
St. Mary's is one of the largest churches
built in the great building period of the late
14th to the late 15th century, of which its
ordinance and detail are typical. It has the
blank east walls in transepts and choir aisles
peculiar to Scotland and the bipartite bay
38
design. The nave, now covered with a plaster
ceiling, was probably ceiled in timber, but all
other parts with rib vaulting. The total length
is 206 feet and the breadth 62 feet ; the tran-
septs, 30 feet broad, have a total length of 113
feet.
The various portions appear to have been
built concurrently or in close sequence. The
stone employed in the eastern divisions is
mainly a reddish sandstone, but there is a
slight admixture of grey and this grey stone
is almost entirely used in the upper part of
the tower and in the western divisions.
To form the present parish church the eastern
archways of the nave were built up some
time prior to 1789, while in 1811, when galleries
were introduced, the nave arcade was height-
ened and the aisle roofs, which till then were
at the height of the aisle roofs of the choir,
were reconstructed at a higher level ; this last
alteration is clearly defined externally on wall
and buttress.
The lateral walls are divided into bays by
buttresses rectangularly disposed and termin-
ating in crocketted and gabletted pinnacles ;
from the choir buttresses sprang flying butt-
resses, only one of which remains, to transmit
the thrust of the high vault. At the corners of
choir and transepts the buttresses are set on
the angle, some still enriched with canopied
niches and heraldic achievements, but those at
the western corners of the nave aisles are
disposed rectangularly to the walls. Massive
rectangular piers at the junctions of transepts
and aisles provide abutment for the thrust of
the aisle arches and transept vaults.
There is a single large window in each gable
and an aisle and a clerestory window, one
built up, to each bay. The choir aisle windows
are single mullioned, while the nave aisle
windows have double mullions with sills at a
higher level, but the two east windows of the
(structural) nave aisles are similar to the choir
windows and perhaps indicate the western
termination of the service choir. The tracery
in the east window is modern, but what
remains in the windows of the choir is original
(fig. 76). In the nave the tracery has been for
the most part restored or renewed in recent
times. The east and west windows, of four and
six lights respectively, and the three light trans-
ept windows rise above the arcades, and the |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 73.-Parish Church, Haddington from North-West (No. 68).
To face p. 38. |
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[illustration inserted]
FIG. 74.-Parish Church, Haddington (No. 68).
39 |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
springing of all their heads is one course above
the crown of the arcades ; within the choir
this springing level is defined by a string-
course. The high vaults spring from a level
three courses higher.
The west front (fig. 73) rises to 64 feet above
ground level. The main doorway (fig. 77) is
divided by a central pier, set within a semi-
circular arch, which springs from the capital of
either jamb. The mouldings of the jambs and
central pier consist of two outer attached shafts
with fillets, separated by hollows and roll and
hollow members. The bases are of the belled
type common in 15th century work. The
capitals are carved with stiff conventional
foliage. On the capital of the central pier is
a shield bearing the emblems of the Passion-
crown of thorns, pierced hands and feet and
[marginal note]
Alma XY i
the nails-arranged as an heraldic charge.
The innermost hollow of the archivolt is en-
riched with stiff and heavily undercut foliage,
but one of the stones is missing and one uncut.
The hood-mould, springing from stops carved
with busts of angels, has a smaller flowing
enrichment.
The west window is wide and has an obtusely
pointed head, within which are two pointed
sub-arches with tracery. The masonry above
the apex of this window appears to have been
reconstructed. In front of the skew, which is
borne on the inner portion of the gable, is a
little gallery, with an arcaded parapet (restored)
above a cornice with paterae.
The tower contained three floors above the
church, and these are reached from the vice
within the south-west pier. It measures 30
feet on each face and stands to a height of
90 feet above which apparently once rose an
open stone coronal, a termination almost
peculiar to Scotland. On each wall, above the
ridges of the main roofs, runs a string-course,
forming the sill of a lofty window of three
grouped lights with semi-circular heads. A
cusped transom divided each light, and at its
level another string-course returns round the
tower. Flanking each window is a canopied
niche. At wall-head level, on the middle of
each face, is a corbelled projection for the
spring of the four coronal ribs ; it should be
noted that there is no provision for ribs
springing from the angles as on the tower of
St. Giles, Edinburgh.
40
Inside the nave the 19th century alteration
on the arcade and aisles is noticeable. The
piers are square with chamfered arrises and
have single engaged shafts on their cardinal
faces ; when they were heightened the capitals
were replaced and the arches reconstructed
with their apexes not much below the sills of
the clerestory windows. The bases of the pier
arcade tend to the bell shape and the upper-
most member returns round the pier members.
The capitals are carved, save those on the
south-east pier and the west responds, which
are moulded and with the abaci return round
the pier members. Above the aisle windows
can be seen traces of the wall ribs of the
quadripartite vaulting of the aisles.
The crossing piers are massive, embodying
and elaborating the section of the pier arcades,
and terminate in moulded bases and foliaceous
capitals.
The transepts are two bays long. In each
bay there would be an alter, possibly furnished
with a high reredos on the blank east wall. In
the east wall of the north transept is a credence
niche with ogival head. The remnants of the
ribs indicate that the north transept and crossing
were ceiled with quadripartite vaulting with
ridges and that the south transept had a very
elaborate ridged stellar vault containing two
tierceron ribs. The walls of the south transept
are complete, and the tracery of the windows
has been restored, but the north-west angle
of the north transept is missing.
The arch opening into the choir is morticed
to receive the rood beam and screen.
The high vault of the choir was quad-
ripartite with ridges; the aisle vaults were also
quadripartite but without ridges.
The piers, bases and capitals of the choir are
similar to those of the nave and show the
original height of the arcade, while their
socket holes indicate the former existence of
parclose screens (fig. 75). The high alter would
be set against a screen between the eastmost
piers indicated by its socket holes,1 and ad-
ditional alters would be placed against the
blank terminal walls of the aisles and below
the east window, where there is a credence
niche.
The revestry, originally two storeyed, now
reduced to its lowest portion, which was largely
rebuilt in the 17th century as a mortuary aisle, |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 75.-Choir.
FIG. 76.-Clerestory Window, Choir.
FIG. 77.-West Door.
PARISH CHURCH, HADDINGTON (No. 68).
To face p. 40. |
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HADDINGTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN -- [HADDINGTON.
projects from the north choir aisle. It retains
a benatura beside the entrance. A vault below
is the burial place of the Lauderdale family.
MONUMENTS.-Against the north wall of the
revestry is an ornate Renaissance monument of
marble-the inscribed slabs being black-
shown in fig. 4. It consists of a plinth with
moulded cornice and base, two bays bounded
by Corinthian columns supporting on decorated
consoles an entablature, enriched on its inner
surface, and a pediment with moulded cornice
broken at the apex, where rises the Maitland
achievement-arms and supporters beneath a
helmet in profile with mantling, crest above and
motto below (cf. p. 45). On either side are
dexter impaled arms of Maitland and Fleming
(cf. p. 45) and sinister Maitland and Seton. In
the bays, behind the flat arch of the entablature,
the recesses are arched semi-circularly with
enrichments on the face and others on the
coved soffit arch. Below are recumbent effi-
gies of alabaster representing dexter John
Maitland Lord Thirlestane, Chancellor of Scot-
land in the reign of James VI. (died 1595),
with his wife Jane Fleming (died 1609), and
sinister their son John, first Earl of Lauderdale
with his countess Isabella Seton (died 1638).
On the outer curve of the arch are shields,
which represent families connected by descent
or marriage with these personages. Reading
from the dexter corner of the dexter bay, these
are for Douglas (Earl of Morton) Cranston, Seton,
Maitland, Maitland impaling Fleming (for the
pair below), Fleming, royal arms debruised of
a bend engrailed (for Janet Stewart, paternal
grandmother of Janet Fleming and illegitimate
daughter of James IV), Hamilton Earl of
Arran, and Douglas ; while the next bay
repeats several of these with, in this case, the
centre impaled coat of Maitland and Seton and
substitution of Hamilton of Sorn and Sanquhar
(Gules, a chevron argent between three cinque-
foils ermine), Drummond and Earl Crawford,
these being in the immediate ancestral line of
Isabella Seton. The Maitland arms again
appear on the cartouche in the panel dividing
the plinth. Shields and sculptures still show
traces of their original painting and gilding.
The inscriptions on the black marble panels
commemorate also a daughter of each pair,
who died young and record that the whole
monument was erected by John Earl of
41
Lauderdale. The pediment once bore verses
by James VI. on the high qualities of his
Chancellor, but it appears to have suffered
some damage previous to 1785, and this feature
is now entirely gone ; the pediment is
possibly a reconstruction.2 Against the east
wall of the north transept of the church is
another fine Renaissance monument erected in
1682 by his wife Agnes Black, in memory
of William Seton a former provost of Hadding-
ton, who was of the family of Seton of Northrig.
The monument bears the three crescents of
Seton impaled with a garb between three boars'
heads erased.
CONSECRATION CROSS.-On the west face of
the east respond of the north arch of the
crossing, an eight-limbed cross within a circle
is incised. This may be a consecration cross
but the form is unusual.
ECCLESIASTICAL VESSELS.-(a) A brass alms
dish 17 3/4 inches in diameter, repoussé with a
bead and spinnel border, bears a representation
of the Temptation.
(b) A second, 20 3/8 inches in diameter, bears
a similar representation but has a vine scroll
border. Both vessels probably date from the
17th century.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The church of St.
Mary of Haddington, with the chapels, was
granted about 1139 by David I. at Haddington
to the church of St. Andrew of " Chilrimont "
i.e., St. Andrews. Some two years later the
same king gave to St. Mary's the lands of
" Clerchetune " or Clerkington, a grant re-
peated by his son Henry about the same time.
The grant to St. Andrews was confirmed by
successive popes and continued till the Reform-
ation, the church being served by a vicar.
St. Mary's was the ' mother church ' and the
chapels were separate buildings. These were
dedicated to Sts. Laurence, Anne, Catherine,
Kentigern and John.
On May 28, 1462 we have a receipt from the
bailies, councillors and community of Hadding-
ton as dominos of the parish church to the
prior and convent of St. Andrews for £100,
which the latter had bound themselves to pay
within five years for the construction and
repair of the choir of the church (pro con-
structione et reparatione chori ecclesiae parroch-
iales) and the furniture (ornamenta) of the high
alter.3 In the Haddington records, there is, |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
in 1545, a list of chalices pertaining to the
" College Kirk of Hadingtoun," several of them
inscribed with the names of their donors-a
silver chalice with a paten belonging to St.
Catherine's alter, one of silver overgilt to the
Lady alter, one of silver double overgilt with
paten to the Trinity alter, one of silver overgilt
with paten to the alter of St. John the Baptist,
one of silver with paten to the alter of the
Holy Rood and one of silver with paten to the
alter of St. James. In 1426 a silver chalice
weighing twelve ounces and eight penny-
weights had been given to the alter of St.
Peter. There were also chalices of St. Nicholas,
St. Ninian and the high alter. Other alters in
the church were dedicated to John, Michael
the Archangel, Crispin, the Holy Blood and
the Three Kings of Cologne. In addition the
Register of the Great Seal, towards the end of
the 15th and in the first half of the 16th
century, records chaplainries of St. Blaise and
St. Crispinianus. St. Salvator's altar is also
mentioned in the Retours. There were thus
seventeen chaplinries or minor alters in the
church. Apparently while the upkeep of the
structure of the choir fell upon the Priory of
St. Andrews as Rector, the maintenance of at
least part of the service there was met by the
Town Council. In 1535 they fixed that Sir*
Thomas Mauchlyn, Rood priest, should have
£4 10 annually for " findyn of the barnis (i.e.,
singing-boys) and buikis (i.e., service-books) in
the queir," and sums were allotted also to Sir
Thomas Mauchlyn (Our Lady Alter) for his
service and " to find lychtis." to Sir William
Cockburn (alter of St. John the Baptist) for
his service, Mr George Kerington (St. Cath-
erine's alter), Sir Adam Brown, and Sir Alexr.
Henryson, the total sum " termlie to the Queir
of Hadingtoun" being £19 : 4. We find further
that on November 26, 1540 " The Counsell
ordains the baillies to require the master of
the College to perwuyss and correct the faltis
within it and, faillieing that he do it not, to
call him and thaim bayth for the samyn."
Thus the clergy under a Master constituted the
" college." This foundation dates from the
time of Archbishop David Beaton (1539-1546),
when there is recorded " a petition from the
* Honorary title : he was not a Master i.e.
Magister Artium of a University.
42
community of Haddington that they have at
their own expense instituted, in the parish
church of St. Mary a college of priest choristers,
for which they desire collegiate rights." At
the date of the petition there was no provost ;
subsequently a " president " was appointed
" with power to frame statues, levy fines, and
maintain discipline in terms of the agreement
between the community and the choristers.4
In 1544 the Council appointed Sir Archibald
Borthwick to the chaplaincy of the Holy Rood,
vacant by the death of Sir Thomas Mauchlyn,
and Sir Adam Browne, chaplain, to the chap-
laincy of the parish clerkship thus vacated by
Borthwick. The last had been made joint
clerk with William Walson eleven years before
on condition that both should " do daily
service in the queir of Haidinton and nane
other for thaim . . . in matins, hours, he mes
(high mass) and evynsang as the laif (rest) of
the queir does and to be priest als sone as thai
cum to aig (age)." The appointment was made
by the baillies, council and community of
the burgh, 138 all told. The Council also
ordained the parish clerks to uphold " the
lamp with oyle that hingis in the Queyr " and
light it during certain specified hours each day.
Haddington Church suffered in the seige of
1548 (cf. Introd. p. xxix). On May 21 the
English order was that it should be taken
down. A month later (June 20) it was said to
be " in maner " down, but on July 3 it was
reported that the church was " upp styll " and
that the Scots and French ' hacbutters go to
the top and shoot into the town at random,'
from which position, however, they were driven
off by the English guns. The " vawltes " of
the steeple and church had been broken, the
church uncovered, the pillars cut and under
propped " thynking they might have turned it
over when they hadd lyst " : this was the
work of the English in order to destroy a
position that commanded the town, but the
arrival of the French and Scottish army on
June 30 apparently prevented its consumma-
ation. Nevertheless the garrison anticipated
no great harm from the place, since " our
ordnance beats through the steeple at every
shot " &c. There is no sign now of any
underpropping of the piers, nor indeed any
evidence of battering by artillery on what
remains, save perhaps on a broken stone below |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 80.-Goblin Ha', Yester Castle (No. 251).
FIG. 79.-Chancel Arch, St. Martin's Church (No. 69).
To face p. 43. |
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HADDINGTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [HADDINGTON.
the parapet of the tower on the north face ;
but on the south wall of the church are many
marks of bullets.
1 Cf. " The said Mr. George (Wishart) spacit
upe and down behind the hie Alter (of the
parish church) mair than half an hour." Knox,
Historie of the Reformation. ; 2 cf. Lamp of
Lothian, pp. 424-7 ; 3 Illustrations of Scottish
History (Maitland Club) pp. 75-6 ; 4 The
Archbishops of St. Andrews, Herkless and
Hannay, vol. iv., p. 239 ; Reg. Prior. St.
Andreae ; Archaeol Scot. i., p. 109 ff.; Proc.
Soc. Ant. Scot. vols. i., ii. (1855 : 1859); Scottish
Papers, vol i. ; Miller's Lamp of Lothian ;
Inquisitiones Speciales, vol. i.
x. N.W. 19 July 1922.
69. St. Martin's Church.-The Church of St.
Martin, dating from the beginning of the 12th
century, stands on a
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 78.-St. Martin's Church
(No. 69).
slightly elevated
plateau at the east-
ern extremity of the
burgh of Hadding-
ton. It has been a
small rectangular two
chambered structure
comprising nave and
chancel, of which the nave is the only portion
that remains ; but it is stated* that in course
of a previous excavation the eastern termin-
ation was found and measured 12 feet square ;
the excavations carried out by H.M. Office of
Works in 1912, however, failed to reveal these
foundations.
The nave (fig. 78) measures internally some
55 1/4 feet by 16 1/2 feet; the lateral walls and west
gable are 4 1/2 feet thick and the chancel wall
3 1/2 feet thick, all built of irregularly coursed
freestone with ashlar dressings. The nave is
covered with a slightly pointed barrel-vault,
which may not be an original feature; of this a
portion at the western end still remains. Above
the vault there has been an upper storey lighted
by windows in the west gable. An external
offset course returns around the walls at wall
head level.
In the 13th century buttresses were added
to the lateral walls, apparently in connection
* Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland vol. i,
p. 363.
43
with the construction of the vault. These
have a projection of 4 feet and rise from a
splayed basement course in three stages to a
steeply pitched weather table under the offset
course.
There is a doorway on the north and another
on the south ; the windows, one on the north
and two on the south, are narrow round-headed
lights with chamfered jambs and wide-splayed
ingoings, their scoinson arches are semi-circular.
An aperture in the west wall appears to have
been a window similar to those just described.
The chancel arch (fig. 79) 7 feet wide, is not
centred in the east wall, probably to provide
space for an alter on the north. It is semi-
circular in form and springs from a simple im-
post moulding 6 1/2 feet above the ground. The
arrises are chamfered. A round-headed piscina
with a fragmentary basin is placed south of the
chancel arch ; on the jamb and head is wrought
a grooved chamfer.
The walls are pierced by three tiers of holes
resembling those at St. Helen's Church, Ber-
wickshire. (Cf. Inventory of Monts. in Ber-
wickshire, Art. No. 46). Their purpose is
obscure, and their position negatives the
suggestion that they held put-logs for scaff-
olding. The structure has been thoroughly
repaired by H.M. Office of Works.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Alexander de St. Martin
got various lands near Haddington from Coun-
tess Ada, mother of William the Lion, at some
date between 1153 and 1178,1 but his connec-
tion, if any, with the church is not known. His
name lands may have carried the saint's name
from an earlier foundation. The lands and
tenements of St. Martinsgate with mills and
other pertinents were gifted by Alexander de
St. Martin to the Nunnery at Haddington,2
which, in time, acquired also the tithes of the
church.3 The Nunnery held courts " apud
Ecclesiam S. Martini in lie Nungait."4
1 Laing Charters, No. 2 ; 2 Archaeol Scot.,
i., p. 109 ; 3 Lamp of Lothian, p. 382 ; 4 R.M.S.
(1566) No. 1753.
x. N.W. 11 July 1912.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
[Marginal note]
Duiand of Accounts,
p.290.
70. Lennoxlove.-The mansion of Lennox-
love or Lethington as it was formerly called,
lies within a pleasant and well wooded park in |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
the angle formed by the confluence of the Tyne
and Gifford Water, a little over a mile to the
south of Haddington. It is an extensive and
composite structure, manifestly the production
of several building operations, the nucleus being
the south-western portion, which is a 15th
century tower ; this has been extended in the
17th century and in more modern times.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 81.-Lennoxlove or Lethington (No. 70).
The tower is a massive and lofty building
(fig. 50), L-shaped on plan (fig. 81) and was once
enclosed by a barmkin, but the only remaining
portion of this is the entrance which lies north
of the tower. It is a wide 16th century gate-
way with a semi-circular head having a quirked
cavetto moulding returning round the head and
down the jambs. The tower is built of rubble
and has been harled. The windows have
evidently been enlarged and have a quirked
edge-roll wrought on jambs and lintel. There
are three main floors beneath and an attic floor
44
above the parapet walk, which latter appears
to have been reconstructed c. late 16th century.
The walk returns along each wall. The parapet
is without embrasures, has open circular pro-
jections at all angles except the south-western,
where there is a cap house, and is borne on a
continuous corbel course rather reminiscent of
that at Nunraw (No. 45). It consists of two
[illustration continued]
FIG. 81.-Lennoxlove or Lethington (No. 70).
members, of which the upper bears the billet
enrichment and the lower is cabled. The sur-
face water from the walk is discharged from
waterspouts representing monsters. The mach-
icolation borne on a squinch arch above the
re-entering angle is of ashlar and is a 17th
century construction. Its parapet is looped for
musketry, but machicolation is blocked.
The cap house and attic floor have been re-
constructed in the 17th century.
The main block measures 55 feet by 38 1/2 feet
externally. The wing projects 23 1/2 feet east- |
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HADDINGTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [HADDINGTON.
ward and is 31 feet broad. The walls at base
are 8 1/2 to 10 feet in thickness. There are two
entrances to the tower, one at the re-entering
angle and another in the east wall of the main
block. Two entrances on the same level are
not usually found in buildings such as this and
suggest a reconstruction. The last mentioned
is probably the original entrance, the panel
above it bearing a shield charged : within a
double tressure flory-counter-flory a lion ram-
pant demembered (Maitland). The shield is
supported by two eagles and is surmounted by
a helmet with flowing mantling, wreathed and
crested, a lion sejant affronté holding in the
dexter paw a sword and in the sinister a
fleur-de-lys. On a label above the achievement
is the Maitland motto " CONSILIO ET ANIMIS."
Another motto below the shield, is illegible.
This entrance admits to a small vaulted lobby
within the thickness of the wall, off which is
entered the basement of the main building on
the west and a small mural passage on the
south. This passage may originally have con-
tained a straight flight of stairs linking up
with the turnpike stair at the re-entering angle
which now ascends from ground to second floor.
The other entrance is at the foot of this stair ;
above the door is a panel inscribed :
QUISNAM E MÆTELLANA STIRPE FUNDA-
MENTA LECE/RIT (sic) QUIS TURRIM EXCITA-
VERIT, INVIDA CELAVIT/ANTIQUITAS :/
LUMINARIA AUXIT, FACILIOREM ASCENSUM
PRÆBUIT ORNA/TIOREM REDDIDIT IOANNES
MÆTELLANUS LAUDERIÆ COMES/AN. ÆRÆ
CHR. MDCXXVI.
" Who of the race of Maitland laid the foun-
dations, who raised the tower, envious anti-
quity has concealed. John Maitland, Earl of
Lauder, increased the lights, provided an easier
stairway and made it more handsome in the
year of the Christian era 1626." As this in-
scription relates, the windows throughout the
tower have been enlarged and the staircases
altered to give easier communication. The
entrance at the stair is furnished with a fine
iron gate in situ, which is apparently of 16th
century workmanship. It is in excellent pre-
servation and still retains its two ponderous
bolts, while a massive staple, which projects
inwardly, was secured by a bar. At the stair-
foot beneath the soffit of the steps a stand pipe
is stated to lead from a well below.
45
The main block on the basement floor com-
prised one large chamber with a lofty barrel-
vault which is lit by a narrow light high up in
the south and west walls; the mid-partition is
modern. At the south-eastern angle of the
chamber there is an access to a second well.
At springing level of the vault there was
probably an intermediate floor of timber, to
which, from the floor above, a small mural
staircase led down and apparently penetrated
the vault and gave access. The wing also
contains a chamber on the basement floor.
This too is vaulted, but the ceiling is low and
the floor is lower than that of the adjoining
basement chamber with which it now communi-
cates. There was originally no inter communi-
cation, and the only access and light to this
eastern chamber was furnished by a hatch in
the vault opening in the floor of a chamber
above, which is entered from the wheel-stair
five steps up from the stair-foot. This chamber
has a fireplace and window, and its relation
with the cellar below suggests that it originally
served as a prison, but it should be noted that
there is no sanitary provision.
On the first floor level the main block
consists of one large chamber with a lofty
barrel-vaulted ceiling. The three hatches in
this vault are noteworthy, as they appear to
be provided for the emission of smoke from a
central hearth on the floor of the hall ; the
chimney flue in the north gable behind the
modern fireplace would therefore be an in-
sertion. The windows have certainly been
altered as noted above, by Sir John Maitland
and in modern times. On the east wall at the
level of the vaulting spring an inscribed panel,
which formerly stood out of doors, has been
inserted. The lower portion of the panel is
shield shaped and is charged per pale : dexter,
a lion rampant (demembered ?) within a double
tressure flory-counter-flory and sinister, 1st and
4th, a chevron within a tressure flory-counter-
flory, 2nd and 3rd six cinquefoils three and
three : being the shields of John Maitland 1st
Lord Thirlestane and Janet Fleming his wife.
Above the armorial bearing is an inscription
in debased Gothic lettering, which is insuffic-
iently preserved to be read. Intercommuni-
cating with the hall is a chamber in the wing
which was the kitchen ; in the east gable above
the 17th century fireplace there is the wide |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
segmental arch of its original fireplace. In the
partition between hall and kitchen there is a
mural staircase, which now descends only for
a short distance and originally led to the
intermediate floor beneath the vault ; off it is
an access to the well. In the south-west angle
of the hall is the entrance to a second wheel-
stair, which gives access to the apartments over
the hall and to the cap-house. Adjoining it
are the remains of a sink with slop outlet.
The wheel-stair at the re-entering angle ascends
to an entresol chamber over the kitchen and
has an inward projection into the chamber.
The 17th century plaster work of this apart-
ment is interesting ; the ceiling is panelled
stelliformly and has moulded and florally en-
riched pendants. The " fields " of the panels
are enriched with three devices (a) beneath
an earl's coronet the initials I M S in monogram
for John Maitland, second Lord of Thirlestane, 1st
Earl of Lauderdale, and Isabel Seton his wife
(b) their armorial bearings (c) a cherub's head.
The fireplace in the corner has a primitive fire-
basket and hobs. Above it is a triple panelling
of plaster (fig. 174); the central panel may not
be in situ but removed from another apartment.
It bears a shield charged per pale with the arms
of the 1st Earl and his wife as above. On a
label above id the motto " CONSILIO ET ANIMIS "
and on a strapwork label below the shield
the date 1618. The side panels are dated 1632.
The plaster cornice below the ceiling is massive
and rather coarse in section, not an unusual
feature in 17th century work. The south-east
angle of the chamber contains a garde-robe
apparently without a flue ; adjoining this
is a doorway that seemingly connected with
the southern end of the hall, where there was
a timber upper floor or loft. The second floor
contains two apartments in the main block
and one in the wing. These have been re-
modelled. The attic floor also comprises three
apartments, which are lit by dormer windows
with triangular pediments surmounted by
finials. The gables are crowstepped, the timber
roof is covered with stone flags, the parapet
walk has been repaired and is floored with
cement.
The 17th century building has been modern-
ised and calls for no special mention.
SUNDIALS.-(a) On the south-east angle of the
46
17th century extension is an angled dial dated
1644.
(b) A rather unusual dial (fig. 82) has been
erected in the south garden adjoining the
mansion on the east. It is dated 1679 and
was removed by the present proprietor from
North Barr House, Renfrewshire. On a base
of two octagonal steps a female figure clothed
in the costume of the period supports a dial
stone on her head. She wears a fluted skirt
with draped panniers, a high waisted stomacher,
passimented at the neck, with puff sleeves in-
taken at the elbow and ruffed at the forearm.
In her left hand she holds a fan, and in her right
she bears a rose disposed against her bosom.
Around her neck she wears a necklace of beads
with a heart-shaped pendant and in her ears
drop-shaped ear-rings. The dial stone is an
octagonal block with 17 faces. The perpen-
dicular faces are alternately cupped and plane.
On the horizontal dial are the initials D. McG.
for Donald MacGilchrist, who built the house
of North Barr in 1676, and the date 1679. The
figure is 3 feet 11 1/2 inches high, the dial stone
is 1 foot 2 1/2 inches high and the steps are each
8 inches high.
(c) On the lawn south of the mansion is a
round horizontal dial with a baluster shaft.
It is undated but on its metal face is engraved
" David Lyon sculpsit."
The first two sundials are illustrated in
Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxiv., pp. 173 and 247.
Lennoxlove Tower is still occupied and has
been restored by the present proprietor.
On the Maitlands of Lethington, see
Introd. p. xxiv.
x. S.W. 6 May 1920.
71. Barnes Castle.-On the eastern shoulder
of the Garleton Hills, 1 3/4 miles north-north-east
of Haddington, are the ruins of a 16th century
residence, unusual in type and an interesting
example of axial planning (fig. 85). On plan
the structure is a great rectangle measuring
162 feet 6 inches by 126 feet 8 inches with
the major axis lying north-east and south-west.
Square towers project externally from the
angles, and between these are spaced inter-
mediate towers, two on the north-west, one
on the south-east and one centrally on the
south-west. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 83.-Ruchlaw (No. 217).
FIG. 84.-Dunglass (No. 124).
SUNDIALS.
FIG. 82.-Lennoxlove (No. 70).
To face p. 46. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 86.-In 1913.
FIG. 87.-c. 1897.
" BOTHWELL CASTLE " HADDINGTON (No. 72).
To face p. 47. |
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HADDINGTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [HADDINGTON.
The dwelling occupies the north-eastern part
of the enclosure, and against the north-western
wall are traces of a long range of building. The
structure is built of rubble with freestone
dressings and is now in the last stages of decay.
The walls are some 14 feet at their highest, but
only the vaulted ground floor of the dwelling
portion remains and is now used as a general
store for agricultural machinery and other
impedimenta, which also litter the wilderness
that was once the courtyard.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 85.-Barnes Castle (No. 71).
[marginal note]
B 38961
The entrance has probably led through a
central tower on the south-western wall to the
courtyard, from which the dwelling is entered
by a central doorway admitting to a vestibule
with a passage on either hand giving access to
a range of vaulted chambers on the east ;
at each extremity of these passages and running
at right angles to them, two others communicate
with a couple of wings projecting within the
courtyard, with the projecting towers parallel
to these, and with the buildings against the
lateral walls. At the re-entering angles of the
wings circular staircases are housed within
square projections on either side of the main
door. The basement apartment of the north
wing has obviously been the kitchen ; there
is a wide fireplace in the east wall, adjacent to
which a service hatch opens beneath the stair ;
on the other side of the passage a mural
chamber is formed in the external wall. These
apartments are all ceiled with stone barrel
vaulting, whence the local name for the structure,
47
the " Vouts." The north-eastern projecting
tower alone is roofed in this manner. In each
of the side walls of the towers is a gunloop
enfilading the walls.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The connection of the
Barnes estate with the Seton family began
with the grant by Robert Bruce in 1321-2 to
Alexander de Seyton of the whole land near
Haddington called " the Bernis " (totam terram
que vocatur lie Bernis juxta Hadington).1 In the
person of John, second surviving son of George,
seventh Lord Seton, the property was conferred
on a cadet branch of the family. John served
in Spain and returned to hold office in the
household of James VI. "He made ane great
building at the Barnes, Voult height, before
his death, intending that building bound a
court."2 John Seton of Barnes died in 1594.
From the character of the remains, the per-
sistence of the name "the Vaults," and the
absence of any further reference of the building,
it might be inferred that it was never carried
further than the vaulted levels at which John
Seton left it. George Seton of Barnes, the
Jacobite Earl of Dunfermline, sold the estate
in 1715.3
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. i., p. 452 ; 2 Hist. of Seyton
Maitland Club p. 61 ; 3 Family of Seton ii.,
p. 628.
v. S.E. (" The Vaults, remains of.") 1 July
1913.
72. " Bothwell Castle."-The ruin of this
town house, which dates from the late 16th or
early 17th century, occupies a site on the left
bank of the River Tyne 100 yards below the
new bridge. It covers a considerable area,
extending from the river bank to East Gate
Street, which is the main access to the town
from the east. Fig. 87 shows the condition of
the structure in 1897, while fig. 86, taken in
1913, shows its present state of ruin.
On plan the structure consisted of a main
block running north and south parallel to the
street and two wings, which extended eastwards
to the river and enclosed a small courtyard.
At the south-west angle of the frontage there
projects a circular tower, in which was placed
the main entrance. Above this is a weather
worn armorial panel within the usual moulded
border. The entrance in the tower has long |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HADDINGTON.
been built up and superseded by a doorway
more conveniently placed in the centre of the
main block. This main block contained a sunk
floor, two upper floors and an attic. The area
is reached from the street level by a staircase
within the tower, and it is probable that this
stair originally continued upwards and gave
access to the upper floors before the erection
of a wide scale and platt staircase built out on
the courtyard between the wings. The wings
were three storeys high and were also served
by this later staircase. At the eastern end
of the south wing there was a rectangular
dovecot, not detached but forming a portion of
the main structure.
The walls are built of rubble with ashlar
dressings. The window and door jambs are
moulded in some instances, splayed in others.
The interior of the building was finished with
care and taste. A drawing dated 1897 and
preserved in the National Art Survey of
Scotland records the interior wood panelling
of one room and the iron door-fittings. These
all appear to have been excellent examples of
native craftsmanship. This structure, less than
thirty years ago, was one of the best specimens
of old Scottish domestic town architecture.
x. N.W. 19 July 1913.
73. Houses in Town.-The Haddington
House in Poldrait Street and several modern-
ised tenements in High Street date from the
17th century; the following bear inscribed
lintels :
(a) on No. 38 East Gate the lintel bears a
representation of six tallow dips suspended
from a rod, and flanked by the initials I T and
I D also the date 1594.
(b) on Moat House, Eastgate is a lintel
inscribed MELIORA . SEMPER . COGITA and the
date 1641.
(c) a lintel, inscribed A M 1680, occurs on a
house in Sidegate.
x. N.W. 19 July 1913.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTION.
74. Fort, Kaeheughs, Barney Mains.-On
the summit of a long ridge, interspersed with
straggling trees at the western end and con-
tained within more closely grown trees round
48
the eastern segment, 400 yards west of Barney
Mains, at an elevation of 500 feet above sea-
level, is a fort, somewhat almond-shaped on
plan, with the narrow end to the east (fig. 92).
The main axis is east and west and measures
internally some 460 feet in length and 235 feet
in breadth. No defence is required along the
northern flank, as there is a sheer precipice of
rock 50 to 60 feet in height on this side, below
which the ground falls away in a steep declivity
for more than 150 feet from the foot of the
rock. On the south the land falls sharply for
30 feet between the inner and outer walls, then
slopes away gradually. To the east the ground
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 88.-Kaeheughs (No. 74).
has been steep and rocky, but an old quarry
has encroached on the fort at this place,
destroying any defences which may have
existed here, while to the west the ridge
stretches away fairly level. The main entrance
(fig. 11) 10 to 12 feet wide is along the summit
of the ridge from the west penetrating all the
defences, and there is also an entrance 9 to 15
feet wide from the south near the western end
of the interior.
The inner defence on the southern flank is
a rampart, 9 feet broad and rising about 1 foot
above the inner level, which is carried round
the western end until it reaches the edge of the
precipice on the north. Across this end it
attains considerable dimensions, being in places
23 feet broad at the base and 6 feet high on the
inside. Besides the inner one on the southern
flank there are two other ramparts near the
foot of the steep natural escarpment. The first
of these outer defences is 6 feet broad, 1 foot
high on the inside and 11 feet high on the
outside, while its crest lies 54 feet from, and
17 1/2 feet lower than the inner rampart ; the
second rampart is 10 feet broad, 1 foot high on |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 89.-Humbie Mill (No. 86).
FIG. 90.-East Linton (No. 151).
FIG. 91.-Abbey Bridge, Haddington (No. 76).
FIG. 92.-Nungate (No. 75).
(A marks inserted Carved Stones).
BRIDGES.
To face p. 49. |
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HADDINGTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [HADDINGTON.
the inside, 3 1/2 feet high on the outside and 40
feet distant from the crest of the last mentioned
rampart. Some 16 feet beyond, what looks
like the fragment of an outer rampart of
uncertain dimensions can be traced for some
distance east of the southern entrance. These
defences run west along the southern flank as
far as the southern entrance, beyond which
only the second of them is continued west-
wards, and this can be traced for about 65 yards,
after which it seems to carry on some distance
as a scarp. The distance between this line and
the inner rampart, adjacent to the southern
entrance, is 85 feet, the intervening space being
occupied by outcropping rocks. The defences
at the western, and most accessible, end of the
fort, consist of three ramparts outside the inner
rampart, intervals of 49 feet, 53 feet and 153
feet separating them from each other. The
first of these is built right across the ridge from
the outer rampart on the south to the edge of
the precipice on the north and measures 12
feet in breadth at the base and 3 to 4 feet in
height ; the second, commencing at the rocky
outcrop on the south, is also carried across the
ridge and measures 18 feet in breadth and 3 to
4 feet in height ; while the third and outer ram-
part, 10 feet in breadth and 1 foot in height, with
a ditch 8 feet broad and 1 foot deep outside it
runs from the ridge northwards for some 50
yards, when it terminates some 40 yards from
the edge of the precipice on the north.
There are no remains of hut circles to be
seen in the interior, but some hollows in the
rocky surface could easily have been, and
probably were, used as shelters.
v. S.W. 28 May 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
75. Nungate Bridge.-This bridge (fig. 92)
spans the River Tyne on the east of Haddington
and gives access from the town to the suburb
of Nungate.
The structure is over 210 feet in length and
traverses a waterway 100 feet in width on three
arches ; two additional arches on the east
carry the incline between the higher level of
the roadway of the bridge and the lower level
of the ground on the east bank.
The western arch is three-centred, the other
two spanning the river are slightly pointed,
49
while those carrying the eastern approach are
semi-circular and are not contemporaneous with
the structure, having been added in the 18th
century. The arches are not ribbed, and the
cutwaters, which project from the piers, have
sloping weather tops. The western approach
from the town is angled ; the eastern has been
altered. The roadway averages 10 feet 8 inches
in width and the bridge measures 14 feet 8
inches across the parapets.
The structure is built of red sandstone and
has been considerably altered and repaired over
a long period ; from the evidence now visible
it appears to date from the 17th century. It is
still used for vehicular traffic, and its present
condition is satisfactory. In the retaining wall
on the east bank to the south of the bridge are
several carved stones. At a point A on
fig. 92 is found a lintel 3 1/2 feet by 10 inches
inscribed in relief ; the first words are illegible,
the termination reads A N O 1565. The lintel
and some other stones, which apparently bear
armorial achievements too decayed to be
decipherable, have probably nothing to do with
the bridge, and were possibly removed from
St. Mary's Church as the stones are of a similar
nature.
x. N.W. 13 July 1912.
76. Abbey Bridge.-A little over 3/4 mile
east of the town of Haddington, the river Tyne,
on emerging from the policies of Amisfield
House, is spanned by a bridge of the early
16th century (fig. 91).
The structure has a total span of 131 feet
by 16 feet in width and is borne on three pointed
drop-centred arches. These arches had origin-
ally five ribs with chamfered edges, each 1 foot
6 1/2 inches broad, dividing the vault into six
bays ; the ribs of the central arch are complete,
three ribs have been removed from the north
arch and two from the southern.
Two courses above the archivolts a row of
corbels of slight projection carry the overhang
of the parapet and appear to indicate a sub-
sequent widening of the roadway, which now
is 13 feet 6 inches wide. The piers between
the arches have projecting cutwaters termin-
ating in sloping tops at the level of the corbels.
A panel over the southern arch records that
the bridge was repaired, but the date is in-
decipherable. On the west coping the date
4 |
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HADDINGTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HUMBIE.
1870 is incised and probably records a later
repair. The bridge is in use and in good
condition.
x. N.E. 1 July 1913.
77. Cross-head at Manse, Haddington.-By
the side of the manse doorway is preserved the
upper part of a wheel-cross head of a very
peculiar type. It is of sandstone, 15 inches
across and 4 1/2 inches thick. The height of the
fragment is 9 inches. The ornament consists
of a St. Andrew's Cross in low relief, plain
and flat, but with a groove in the centre of the
arms giving the appearance of the cross being
formed of four V's with their points converging
in the centre of the cross head. In the
middle of each arm the groove is deepened for
2 1/2 inches. The width of the arms is 4 1/4 to 4 1/2
inches. On the flat space between the arms at
the head of the cross a small cross 2 inches
across the arms had been incised. There
appears to have been another in the corres-
ponding place on one side. Each of these
spaces may have had one.
x. N.W. 30 May 1913.
78. Graveyard.-Some 70 yards east of the
Abbey Farm (No. 79) in an oblong wooded
enclosure is a graveyard in a state of desolation.
At the eastern end are two table stones greatly
weathered, with illegible inscriptions. On the
south is a 17th century headstone bearing the
funereal insignia of the period.
x. N.E. 1 July 1913.
79. Abbey Farm.-The Abbey farmhouse
lies 1 mile east-north-east of Haddington. The
northmost building in the farm steading, now
used as a store, appears to date from the
16th century. It presents no features of
interest.
x. N.E. 1 July 1913.
80. Stone with Spiral, Cockles Smithy.-At
the north-western corner of the cross-roads at
Cockles Smithy about 2 miles south-east of
Haddington is a rounded boulder embedded in
road scrapings, on which a spiral of two turns
has been carved, the free end of the spiral
terminating in a recurving bifurcation. The
50
breadth of the spiral is 4 inches and including
bifurcation the design measures 6 inches across
(fig. 10).
x. S.E. (unnoted). 30 May 1913.
SITE.
The O.S. map indicates the following site:-
81. St. Mary's Convent x. N.E.
HUMBIE.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
82. Keith Church.-The ruin of this church
is situated on a knoll a short distance to the
north of the mansion of Keith-Marischal,
which is distant 2 miles west-south-west from
Humbie Station. The building (fig. 93) is
orientated and
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 93.-Keith Church (No. 82).
has comprised
nave and chan-
cel, as is indic-
ated by the
lesser width of
the latter div-
ision. The
west gable and portions of the lateral walls,
more particularly towards their western end,
have been reconstructed in post-reformation
times. The east gable and the eastern end
of the south wall do not appear to have
been interfered with since their erection in
or about the 13th century. The former meas-
ures 15 feet from ground level to the wall head,
above which it is skewed to receive a steeply
pitched roof. In this gable are two narrow
lancet windows with pointed heads. Exteriorly
a broad double chamfer is carried round the
jambs and heads, which are widely splayed to
the interior. The sills are modern. Above
these windows is a vesica, from which the in-
filling has been removed.
At the eastern end of the south wall is a
window 1 3/4 feet wide at the daylight, with a
chamfer-cusped head and elementary eyes. The
head is formed from a single block of ashlar,
on which is incised a circle on either side of
the head, the wester with six straight rays,
the easter with closely set undulating rays.
Similar roundels are found in Rome in the
churches of S. Sabina and S. Maria in Cos-
medin flanking crosses on 8th and 9th century |
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HUMBIE.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [HUMBIE.
pluteii.1 The remainder of the south wall is
enshrouded in ivy, and a close examination is
impossible. The north wall is fragmentary, and
the west gable, as aforesaid, has been rebuilt.
The structure exteriorly is 63 1/2 feet long,
19 feet wide at the chancel and 22 1/4 feet wide
at the nave. Internally the chancel is 27 1/4 feet
long, 13 feet 10 inches wide at the east end and
12 feet 9 inches wide at the chancel arch. The
nave is 29 1/4 feet long and 15 1/2 feet wide. The
east gable is 2 feet 7 inches thick, and the
south wall 2 feet 9 inches.
GRAVESLAB.-Lying against the north-west
angle of the church is a graveslab 4 feet 1 inch
in length, which tapers in width from 12 to 10
inches, with both ends missing. A margin is
droved on either side, and in the centre is
incised a sword 3 feet long with elevated
quillons, hilt and pommel.
SEPULCHRAL MONUMENT.-Against the ex-
terior of the south wall is built a Renaissance
monument to Anderson of Whitburgh, dated
1685. It bears the arms of Anderson impaled
with those of Forrester or Hunter-a saltire
engrailed between four mullets ; three hunting
horns below a star in chief.
BELL.-Within the mansion (No. 83) is pre-
served the church bell dated 1620 (fig. 30).
The bell is complete with canons and measures
1 foot 3 inches in diameter at skirt, 8 1/4 inches
in diameter at crown. It is 11 inches in height
from the skirt to the bottom of the canons and
15 inches high over all. Beside the date, which
is in relief, is a symbol, also in relief, a crown
surmounting a hammer, this being the insignia
of the Incorporation of Hammermen of Edin-
burgh. It is flanked by the initials G. H. for
George Hog, who cast several bells during the
early part of the 17th century, including one at
Closeburn Church, Dumfriesshire,2 which is in-
scribed " apud Poterraw " locating his foundry
in the street of that name in Edinburgh.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-A church at ' Keith '
was granted c. 1160 by Simon Fraser to the
monks of Kelso. This church was also known
as that of ' Hundeby-Keith ' and was repre-
sented by the former church of Humbie as a
separate parish. But some time before 1176
Hervey de Keith or Hervey Marischal founded
a ' Chapel ' (capella de Keth hervei) in his own
vill of Keith, which is also referred to as a
' church ' and was served by a parson and
51
which paid 20/ annually to the church of
Keith (Hundeby). It is therefore the foundation
at Keith-Marischal which is the subject of this
article.3 On the Keith family and the two
Keiths see Introd. p. xxi.
According to a modern inscription on the
south wall the building was erected as a
private chapel in the reign of David I. by
Hervey de Keith, King's Marischal in the reign
of Alexander II. This would date the structure
at least a century earlier than the architectural
evidence warrants. Later the church served
the parish of Keith-Marischal, which was
merged in 1618 with that of Keith-Hundeby
to form the parish known from the latter as
Humbie.
1 Lombardic Architecture, Rivoira i. 127-8 ;
2 Inventory of Monts. in Dumfriesshire, Art.
No. 58 ; 3 Liber de Calchou passim.
xiv. S.E. (Edin. ix. S.E.) 25 August 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
83. Keith House.-Keith House more usually
called Keith Marischal, lies 2 miles west-south-
west from Humbie station amid the well-
wooded policies of the estate. The structure
dates from the end of the 16th century but
has been so added to and modernised from
time to time that few architectural features of
interest remain. Into the north wall of the
north-west wing is built a stone bearing beneath
an earl's coronet a shield charged with three
pallets on a chief-the arms of the Keith family.
Near the angle turret but towards the west
a panel, which was removed from Rubislaw, has
been inserted. It bears the arms of Sir George
Skene of Rubislaw and Fintry and is dated
1688.
On the family of Keith see Introd. p. xxi.
xiv. S.E. (Edin. ix. S.E.) 25 August 1913.
84. Leaston House.-This is a late 17th
century house situated on a foothill of the
Lammermuirs 2 3/4 miles south of East Salton.
It consists of a central oblong portion, lying
north-east and south-west, with a shorter wing
at either end returning rectangularly south-
wards. There are two storeys throughout, but a
garret is contrived beneath the roof of the main
block by heightening a portion of the north and |
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HUMBIE.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [HUMBIE.
south walls. The little gables so formed are
ogival in shape, have spiralled skewputs and
are surmounted by a chimney stalk with a
moulded cope. The building is of rubble and
is covered with harling, but the backset
dressings of the voids are exposed. The
entrance is centred in the south wall. Its
architrave is heavily moulded and breaks into
ears at the head ; the frieze is cushioned. The
moulded cornice has a pediment containing a
scrolled cartouche, on which is a grotesquely
carved cherub's head surmounted by an urn
as a finial.
SCULPTURED STONE.-In a rockery bordering
the lawn north of the house is a slab of
freestone 6 1/2 inches thick, 2 feet 5 inches
above ground and 1 foot 9 inches in
greatest width (fig. 9). The surface is fairly
smooth, and on it are inscribed five concentric
rings, the greatest diameter being 1 foot 3
inches. The incisions appear to have been
executed with a pick or similar percussing
tool, and the inner rings are markedly less
regular than the outer.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The house takes its
name from the old family in the property.
" Robert Lieston of Humbie " in 1502 married
a daughter of Halket of Pitfirran.1 A hundred
years later Humbie was in possession of a
Lawson family.2
1 Douglas's Baronage (1798) p. 285.
2 Inquisit. Spec. Hadd. Nos. 34, 169, 254,
etc.
xv. S.W. 9 April 1920.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTION.
85. Fort, Stobshiel.-In the angle formed by
a bend in the Birns Water, immediately to the
south of the road between Kidlaw and Stob-
shiel and some 300 yards north-north-east of
the latter place, at an elevation of about 700
feet above sea-level, is a small plateau separated
from the surrounding land by the burn on the
east and north and by a deep hollow with
steep sides on the south-west. The summit,
which is of triangular shape with base to the
north and concave sides, is occupied by a fort
(fig. 94), the rampart running along the edges
of the plateau where it rises some 33 feet above
the burn on the east and 20 feet above the
hollow on the west. The internal measurements
52
are 254 feet from the southern apex to the
middle of the northern rampart and 190 feet
across the northern end or base. The ramparts,
to judge from the remains on the northern side,
have been made largely of stone, but they have
been destroyed on the eastern side and are
much dilapidated on the south-west, the stones
having been removed for building purposes and
the soil thrown down the slope. At the south-
ern extremity the rampart is 10 feet in breadth
at the base, and rises 10 feet above the inner
level and 20 feet above the bottom of the ditch
outside, while
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 94.-Stobshiel (No. 85).
on the northern
side near the
eastern end it
is 10 feet in
breadth and 6
feet in height
on the inside.
Across the nar-
row sloping pro-
jection of the
ridge to the
south, two broad
ditches have
been cut, and
the excavated
material has
been piled up
to form a ram-
part between
them, which is continued a short distance
along the south-western side of the fort.
The inner ditch is 48 feet wide and the
outer 30 feet, the rampart between being
28 feet broad, 14 1/2 feet high on the inside and
15 feet on the outside, while the counterscarp
of the outer trench is 4 feet high. There are
two entrances to the fort, one at the north-
eastern corner and the other at the north-
western corner, and both are now about 12
feet wide. The latter entrance is approached
along the top of a rising spur of ground, and
there are indications that this passage may have
been walled for a distance of nearly 80 feet,
as some 60 feet from the opening in the ram-
part, on each side of this passage, is a mound
of stone and earth.
There are traces of a least a dozen hut
foundations within the fort. some 45 feet from
the north-eastern entrance, and almost oppo- |
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INNERWICK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [INNERWICK.
site it, is a circular heap of stones, 14 feet in
diameter and rising 1 foot above the surround-
ing ground, which probably formed a hut
circle, though there is no depression in the
centre. Three stone foundations of hut circles,
overgrown with grass and 12 feet in external
diameter, lie alongside the northern rampart,
and two similar semi-circular foundations, 6 feet
in diameter internally, which impinge on each
other, lie at the northern side of the north-
western entrance. Opposite the centre of the
south-western wall is a quadrangular hollow
with segments of four circular foundations
traceable in the angles, which suggest a group
of four hut circles, each about 12 feet in
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 95.-Innerwick Castle (No. 87).
diameter, almost touching. Between this
and the southern extremity of the fort
are two more circular hollows, while
against the south-western rampart are
two contiguous stony foundations, the
common wall between being 5 feet thick.
The more northerly example, 11 feet in
length, is sub-oval in shape but incom-
plete, while that to the south is rect-
angular, there being a wide entrance to
the north-east, and a large heap of debris
on the southern side.
xv. S.W. 20 May 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
86. Bridge at Humbie Mill.-The bridge
(fig. 88) over the Humbie Water at Humbie
Mill is apparently a 17th century con-
struction. It is built of uncoursed rubble and
has one segmental arch with a span of 24 feet
4 inches. The width of the soffit remains un-
altered at 14 1/2 feet, and the roadway is 13 feet
10 inches wide. The top of the parapet is
21 feet 2 inches above the water line. The
parapets overhang and are borne on unmould-
ed corbels.
xviii. N.E. (Edin. xv. N.E.) 9 April 1920.
INNERWICK.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
87. Innerwick Castle.-This ruin stands 3/4
mile due east of Innerwick, on the left bank of
the Thornton Burn, at an altitude of 250 feet
above sea-level. The deep but narrow channel
53
of the burn skirts a harder mass of rock to form
a promontory encompassed on the north, east
and south by the loop of the stream ; on this
promontory the castle (fig. 15) is built, being
cut off from the mainland on the west by an
artificial ditch 15 feet deep and 18 feet wide
hewn across the neck. On either side of this
ditch a row of five mortices for joists, cut in
the rock and spaced over a width of 8 1/2 feet,
suggests that the gap was crossed at one time
by a permanent wooden bridge.
The promontory measures 100 feet along its
major axis from east to west and has a mean
width of 53 feet from north to south. It is
[illustration continued]
FIG. 95.-Innerwick Castle (No. 87).
entirely covered with building of different
periods to within a few inches of the edge, the
disposition and area of the structures being
naturally governed by the site (fig. 95). So
ruinous are these that the arrangement of the
castle is difficult to elicit; the lowest storey only
remains, and even in that important features
such as accesses have disappeared. It may be
premised that a site of this nature would be
occupied from an early period, but the arrange-
ment on plan does not seem to warrant a date
earlier than the 15th century for the oldest
structures.
On west, south and possibly also on the
north the rock is crowned by a wall of enceinte
along its sides, the wall being embodied, pro-
bably during a reconstruction, in buildings to
the west of the main block, which lies 24 feet |
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INNERWICK.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [INNERWICK.
east of the rock cut ditch. If the structure
borne across the ditch and indicated by the
beam holes was a bridge, the entrance in the
curtain would lie opposite to it. The main
block comprises two chambers of approximately
equal lengths but unequal in width, with a
vaulted passage on the north. These chambers
are ceiled with round barrel-vaults and enter
from the east, the northern through a vestibule
within the thickness of the wall, the southern
from a passage, at the southern end of which
are traces of a staircase leading to the upper
floor. In the east wall of these chambers
above the vault is a stone conduit sloping
diagonally downwards in the thickness of the
wall, which, it is suggested, may have served to
collect roof water for domestic purposes.
A rib-vaulted passage on the north turns
southwards along the main block and gives
access to a long apartment running east and
west ; the western portion nearest the passage
has a large fireplace beside the doorway and is
elevated above the eastern and larger division.
This chamber was covered with a round barrel-
vault but appears to be later then the main
block. Off it, at its eastern end, is a little room
on the north, which has been ceiled in wood,
while a doorway farther west leads to an
irregularly shaped chamber with a drain in
the north wall east of the window. This
chamber has a pointed barrel-vault and gives
access to a small circular staircase.
The structures west of the main block are
extremely ruinous. The only feature of archi-
tectural interest is a window overlooking the
ditch, which from its detail, is evidently of the
16th century. At the north-west angle of the
site an oblong tower is placed, from which is
entered a passage to the south against the
west wall of enceinte.
If the entrance to the castle was not by means
of such a bridge as has been suggested, it must
have been by a stairway abutting against the
oblong tower and descending to the north
passage ; in which case, probably, the court-
yard originally extended as far as the cross
wall shown dotted on plan, the other portions
to the south being occupied by two conjoining
structures.
The chambers in the portion referred to as
the main block measure internally 18 1/4 feet and
17 1/2 feet from east to west and 7 feet and 14 1/2
54
feet from north to south ; the long apartment
to the east has a total length of 36 feet and a
width of 16 feet. To the north of this the
irregularly shaped chamber is 14 1/4 feet long by
12 1/3 feet wide. The walls of the castle vary
in thickness from 1 1/4 to 4 feet. The older
portions are built of ashlar, the later of un-
coursed rubble.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The castle of Innerwick
of Inverwick (castrum de Inverwik in Laudonia)
was one of the places that fell into the hands
of the English after their success at Homildon
Hill in Sep. 1402. It was recaptured by the
Regent Albany with an army in the summer of
the following year, when he had it razed to the
ground (prostravit ad terram).1 But a purchase
of timber " for the siege of the castle of Inner-
wick " in 1406 would seem to relegate the
siege to that year.2 Thereafter it was re-
constructed, and "Anderwyke" as a "pyle or
holde " on a " craggy foundacion " menacing
communication with Berwick, was assaulted by
Somerset on the way into Scotland with a force
on Sep. 6, 1547. The place "perteined to the
Lorde of Hambleton" and was kept by the
Master of Hamilton and eight others "gentle-
men for the moste part." The defenders
blocked the outer doors and the stairs and made
their defence from the battlements. But the
hackbutters, who were attacking, forced a way
in and started a fire in the lower parts, so that
the "smoke and smoother" forced the defenders
to ask mercy. Ere a reply could come from the
commander, the hackbutters had forced their
way up and killed eight of the garrison ; one
jumped from the wall and ran a furlong before
he was overtaken and slain.3
On the Hamiltons of Innerwick, see Introd.,
p. xxii.
1 Scotich. Lib. xv. cap 16 ; 2 Exch. Rolls
iii., p. 644 ; 3 Patten's Expedicion into Scot-
lande, pp. 36-7.
xii. N.E. 16 July 1913.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
88. Hill Fort No. 1, Blackcastle Hill.-About
1 mile due south of Innerwick village, some
200 yards north of the Ogle Burn close to its
source and near the eastern end of the ridge
known as Blackcastle Hill, at an elevation of
900 feet above sea-level, is an oval area enclosed |
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INNERWICK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [INNERWICK.
by an earthen wall 17 feet broad, 3 feet high on
the outside and 2 feet high on the inside.
Outside the rampart is a ditch 10 feet broad
and 1 foot deep at most. To the west there
is a slight rise in the ground, but elsewhere a
very gentle fall. The main axis is east and
west, and the interior is 125 feet long and 102
feet broad. To the east is an entrance, 18
feet wide, which is much broken down, and
there is a gap, 12 feet broad, at the south-west.
Some 15 feet from the inside of the wall on
the north-eastern arc is a hollow circular
depression, 18 feet in diameter and 9 inches
deep, which was probably a hut circle. It
seems to have been entered from the south-
west.
xii. S.E. 26 June 1913.
89. Hill Fort No. 2, Blackcastle Hill.-About
5/8 of a mile south-west of the previous fort, and
near the western end
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 96.-Fort No. 2 Black-
castle Hill (No. 89).
of the Blackcastle
Hill, at an elevation
of 900 feet above sea-
level, is a fort sub-
oval in plan (fig. 96),
being wider towards
the eastern end. The
main axis is north-
east and south-west,
and internally it
measures 170 feet
in length by 150 feet
across the centre.
The fort is placed on the gentle western slope
of the hill, the ground falling gradually to the
north-west and to the south-west for a short
distance, when it drops sharply for 400 feet.
It is defended by a single rampart of earth, 11
feet broad for the greater part of its circum-
ference, but broadening to a width of 17 feet
on the south-west, near the centre of which is
an entrance 7 feet wide. Inside the rampart is a
ditch 6 feet broad and 9 inches deep, the soil
from which has apparently been used in making
the rampart, which rises at most about 2 feet
above the bottom of the ditch. Outside the
lower or western arc of the fort, at a distance
of 22 feet from the wall, are four short mounds,
15 feet broad, with a trench outside each, 7 feet
broad and 1 1/2 feet deep. These mounds are
1 1/2 feet high on the inside and rise 4 feet above
55
the bottom of the trenches. The eastern is
34 feet in length and the others are 58 feet,
17 feet and 30 feet respectively, while they are
20 feet, 25 feet and 44 feet apart, the northern
end of the third being in line with the southern
side of the entrance to the fort. Within the fort,
to the south of the entrance, is a hut circle,
20 feet in diameter internally and 1 1/2 feet deep,
showing several large stones in the wall, which
is 3 feet broad. The entrance, which is to the
south-east, is 3 feet in width. Running along
the eastern flank, 18 feet distant from the
wall, is an excavated curved hollow some 42
feet in length, 12 feet in breadth, and about
9 inches in depth, which has been entered from
the south. About 20 feet from the inner end
there seems to have been a partition thrown
out from the western side of the hollow, and
there is slight evidence of a hut circle having
existed between the entrance to this hollow and
the hut circle near the entrance.
xii. S.W. 26 June 1913.
CAIRNS.
90. Cairn, "The Witches Cairn," Crystal Rig,
Friardykes.-This cairn of stone, now almost
overgrown with grass, lies near the summit of a
broad flat hill, the Crystal Rig, nearly mid-
way between Friardykes and Caldercleugh at
an elevation of 1045 feet above sea-level. It is
58 feet in diameter and, though much reduced
in height, still rises 4 feet above the surrounding
level. The central part of the cairn is probably
undisturbed, but a small surveyor's cairn has
been erected on the summit.
xvi. N.E. 14 June 1913.
91. Cairns, Crystal Rig.-About 700 yards
south-east of the Witches Cairn (No. 90) and
the same distance north-east of Caldercleugh,
towards the southern end of the Crystal Rig,
a short distance above the 1000 feet contour
line, is a group of cairns, the majority of which
are nearly hidden by a growth of peat and
rough grass on the surface. The largest cairn
is 20 feet in diameter and 1 foot in height.
Some stones have been dug out of it to form a
small modern cairn, which has been erected on
its summit. Some 30 yards to the north-north-
east is a cairn 9 feet in diameter, rising 9 inches
above the surface, the stones of which can only |
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INNERWICK.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [MORHAM.
be found on probing to a depth of 6 or 8 inches.
About 30 yards west of the second cairn is
another 18 feet in diameter and 1 foot in
height. Two other small cairns are placed
about 30 yards to the south-west of the last.
xvii. N.W. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
92. Dovecot.-In a field, 1 mile north of
Innerwick and 400 yards west of the Free
Church, is a late rectangular dovecot measuring
30 feet by 20 feet externally. It is not provided
with a stringcourse, which is unusual. The
walls are of light coloured freestone, rubble
built and covered with roughcast; the gables are
crow-stepped. The roof is of timber and is
slated. Two modern windows have been
pierced in the front wall above the entrance.
xii. N.E. (unnoted). 25 May 1920.
93. The Witches Knowe, Single Knowes
Field, Innerwick Farm.-Some 500 yards east
of the dwelling house on Innerwick Farm and
nearly 200 yards south of the public road, in a
field called Single Knowes field, is a slightly
rising piece of ground known as the Witches
Knowe, on which a number of witches are said
to have been burnt.
xii. N.E. (unnoted). 26 June 1913.
SITES.
94. Fort, Thorntonloch.-About 350 yards
south-south-east of Thorntonloch, on the right
bank of the mouth of the Thornton Burn, a dry
season reveals among the crop the lines of a
promontory fort occupying a bank which falls
30 to 40 feet on the north and west, but slopes
more gradually on the other sides. The area
enclosed measures 90 by 58 yards with an
entrance about the middle of the south side.
East of the entrance two trenches 36 feet apart
can be roughly discerned in favourable circum-
stances, the inner 12 feet wide and the outer
9 feet ; but to the west one only. Two hut
circles of about 15 feet in diameter are further
suggested within the enclosure.
See Proc. Berwickshire Naturalists' Club,
vol. xxiv., p. 106.
xii. N.E. (unnoted).
56
The O.S. maps indicate the following sites:-
95. St. Denis's Chapel, Chapel Point, 1 mile
E. of East Barns. vii. S.E.
96. Thornton Castle, Thornton. xii. N.E.
97. Edinkens Bridge, Thornton. xii. N.E.
MORHAM.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
98. Parish Church.-The parish church, an
unpretentious structure erected in 1724, lies
2 1/2 miles east-south-east of Haddington. In the
south wall is inserted a stone 4 feet long and
8 inches high, which is carved with a foliaceous
interlacing band and is possibly the side of an
early Christian cross-shaft. The belfry over the
west gable dates from 1685 and is of a common
plain Renaissance type.
BELL.-Within the belfry hangs a bell 15 1/2
inches diameter at lip and 12 1/4 inches high,
which is inscribed SIR , JAMES , STANDSFIELD ,
DONVM , EIVS , 1681. It is small but very
beautiful, almost certainly cast in Holland, but
seemingly at some foundry otherwise unrepre-
sented in Scotland so far as is known at present.
The lettering of the inscription is closely set
and has a rather heavy face, and the words
are divided by commas set in the middle of
the line, somewhat in the manner adopted by
Quirin de Visser of Rotterdam at a later date
on bells at Kells and Kirkcudbright Town
Steeple. Above and below the inscription are
ornamental borders in the best style of the
period, the lower and wider consisting of birds
with long beaks and outstretched wings among
conventional flowers and leaves. The general
style may be compared with the somewhat
similar ornaments used by Peter Ostens of
Rotterdam at Kinnett, Kincardineshire, 1679.1
The clapper is original, and the old crown
staple remains, but all the canons except two
have been cut off in order to enable the bell
to be fitted to a modern iron stock. The lip
is remarkably thin.
1 Eeles, Church Bells of Kincardineshire,
pp. 15, 33.
x. N.E. 10 July 1912. |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
MISCELLANEOUS.
99. Standing Stone, Standing Stone Farm.-
In the stack-yard at Standing Stone Farm is
a fine tall four-sided monolith 9 feet 2 inches in
height above ground on the west, the sides
measuring 2 feet 3 inches, 2 feet 3 inches,
2 feet 8 inches and 2 feet 5 inches in breadth
respectively.
xi. N.W. 28 May 1913.
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate the following sites:-
100. Morham Castle, S. of the Church near
Mill Bridge. x. S.E.
101. Morham Village, S. of the Church near
Mill Bridge. x. S.E.
NORTH BERWICK.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
102. Old Parish Church, North Berwick.-
Within the churchyard are the ruins of this
structure consisting of an orientated oblong
nave with a central western tower. The church
resembles that of the neighbouring parish of
Prestonkirk and was altered and enlarged about
the same time, viz.:-1770; but the original
building appears, from the Kirk Session records,
to have been begun in May 1659; on the south-
east corner is the date 1660. Operations were
delayed at first by a difference of opinion as to
whether the old kirk, still structurally in good
condition, should be repaired or a new one
erected. But by 1656 the old kirk was in
"totall ruine and decay," and the new building
on a new site had to be undertaken, which,
owing to financial difficulties with the heritors
was not completed till 1664. Cf. The Auld
Kirks of North Berwick, by D. B. Swan.
ii. S.E. 23 July 1913.
103. St. Andrews Church, North Berwick.-
This church stood near the harbour in the en-
closure now occupied by the Coastguard Station.
The only portion remaining is a small one-
storeyed vaulted structure built of rubble,
which once projected from the south wall of the
church. It is oblong on plan, measures 19 feet
from north to south and 18 feet from east to
57
west, and has a central buttress which projects
2 feet 9 inches from each of the lateral walls.
In the south gable there is a doorway 3 feet 2
inches wide with a semi-circular head, on which
a bold quirked edge-roll moulding returns and
continues down the jambs. On the north
gable the opening has been widened. The
original west jamb is in situ and shows that
this doorway also had a semi-circular head.
The mouldings are work of the 16th century.
In the north-west angle a fireplace has been
inserted, and in the east jamb of the south
doorway there is a stone basin. Two fragments
of a grave slab c. 13th century are preserved
within the structure, while a third fragment
has been built into the coping of the boundary
wall of the swimming pool.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-One of the witnesses to
a charter by Duncan, Earl of Fife (ante 1177)
is Richard, chaplain of St. Andrew of North
Berwick. A charter from Malcolm, Earl of
Fife (d. 1228) grants several churches to the
nuns of North Berwick, among which is " the
church of Norberwic with the land of the
same church and with the tithes, offerings and
all other rights justly pertaining to the said
church." Witness to a charter of Confirmation
by William, bishop of St. Andrews (1202-1239),
of the grant of a church in Fife to the nuns is
Hugh, " chaplain vicar of Nordberwick." In
1529 the Pope confirmed a grant to the nuns of
" Northberwyk " of the perpetual vicarage of
the church of North Berwick, the nuns to
present a suitable chaplain who should have
" the cure of the souls of the parishioners of
the same church and pay him a stipend." In
1497 the baillies and community of N.
Berwick granted to William of Carrick, in-
dweller in the Mains of Tantallon, the right to
erect an alter to " our Lady of Peace " in
St. Ninian's aisle, to the building of which he
had also made a contribution. The alter had
already been erected. The " aisle " must have
been a transeptal one on the north from the
nave, as the new alter was to stand between
that of St. Ninian and the north gable of the
aisle.1
In 1690 John Inglis was returned owner of
" the island of Longbelland " with the patron-
age of the chaplainries or altarages called Lady
Altar, Rood Altar and St. Sebastian's Altar
within the parish church of North Berwick.2 |
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NORTH BERWICK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
According to a record, now amissing, the Kirk
Session, in determining on a new church (see
previous article), resolved " rather to change
the site of the parish church than to rebuild
the arches or bridges connecting the kirk with
the shore " (cited in Guide to North Berwick,
pub. Melville p. 15).
There was also a hospital for poor folk and
pilgrims nearby from the latter half of the
twelfth century, the pilgrims being apparently
destined for St. Andrews by the "Earl's ferry,"
and another fragment of building at Earlsferry
on the Fife shore marks the position of the
corresponding hospital there. In Sept.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 97.-Stone Moulds from North Berwick (No. 103).
1560 Robert Lauder of the Bass, as " un-
doubted patron of the hospital of poor brothers
(confratrum pauperum) and of the perpetual
chaplainry of the same near the vill of North-
berwyk perpetually founded and situated at
the shrine or chapel of the aforesaid and
described (hujus modi) hospital," presented
George Lyell to the chaplainry in succession
to James " Cowhen " (Cowan) and invested
him in possession by presentation of the key
of the said chapel and of the lodging built
over it (camere ejusdem desuper constructe et
situate).3 The site of the hospital has been
fixed in Quality Street.
There was a graveyard at the church, but
much of this has been eroded away by the sea
and with it other ruinous portions of building.4
In the graveyard was found a portion of a stone
mould for making pilgrim's badges or signs and
ring brooches. One badge (fig. 97) displayed a
58
figure of St. Andrew, and was attached to some
part of the dress by loops at the four corners.5
1 Fraser's Douglas Book iii., No. 150, pp.
165-6 ; 2 Inquis. Spec. Hadd., Nos. 365, 366 ;
3 Carte Monialium de Northberwic, passim ;
4 Wilson's Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, ii.,
p. 505 ; 5 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vol. xli. (1906-7),
p. 431.
ii. N.E. 23 June 1919.
104. Cistercian Convent, North Berwick.-
What survives of this foundation lies within the
grounds of a modern residence 200 yards
south-west of North Ber-
[illustration continued]
FIG. 97.-Stone Moulds from North Berwick (No. 103).
wick railway station, and
consists of an oblong range
of conventual buildings (fig.
98) running east and west
constructed of local rubble
with yellow freestone dress-
ings. The western portion
has been two storeys and an
attic in height. The base-
ment floor contains four
cellars ceiled with semi-
circular barrel-vaults. The
floor above has traces of a
fireplace in the west gable
and was lit by small lintelled
windows in the lateral walls.
In the east gable is a large
pointed arched window or door, which opened
into the upper floor of an oblong two-storeyed
building in line with the western portion, of
which only the much altered north wall is now
standing. Midway between these buildings
there projects on the north a square tower built
of ashlar, which is evidently an addition of the
late 16th century. It rises from a splayed base-
ment course and has contained at least four
storeys within the roof. The basement storey,
like the other chambers on this floor, is ceiled
in stone. A circular turret is corbelled out at
the north-eastern angle and is enriched by two
string courses, the upper of which returns
across the face of the square tower and, like
the basement course, around a circular tower,
built within the west re-entering angle which
contains a fairly spacious circular stair leading
to the upper floors of the west portion and
square tower. This staircase is partly built of |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 98.-Cistercian Convent of Nunnery, N. Berwick (No. 104).
FIG. 99.-Hailes Castle from the East (No. 147).
To face p. 58. |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
sandstone and partly of the local igneous red
stone. The north wall of the west portion has
a row of corbels on the exterior to bear a
hoarding or penthouse roof. East of the
square tower is a square projection housing a
large fireplace with a massive stalk. This
fireplace would appear to have superseded a
projecting porch covered with a splayed stone
roof. In the inner wall of the fireplace is a
pointed arched window of 14th century date,
which of course was built up on the formation
of the fireplace, as it then looked into the flue.
The east wall of the porch was pierced by an
arched opening, which, later, was contracted
and subsequently filled in, when a keyhole-
shaped window was inserted to overlook an
apparently later entrance immediately to the
east. This entrance has a pointed arched head.
The fireplace has cupboards and a drain in the
west wall. The projection had opened into a
vaulted room under a pointed arch in two
orders, the room being afterwards lowered to
a more suitable height on the erection of the
fireplace. The north wall is carried eastwards
from the entrance above mentioned for a
distance of 56 1/2 feet, where it has returned in a
southern direction. South-west of the west
portion, and not in alinement with this building,
is a gateway 12 1/4 feet wide with a segmental
arched head. There is no visible trace of other
structures.
A number of pieces of mediæval glazed
brick, tile, and pottery have been unearthed
beside the ruin. Five of these tiles bearing
raised figures of animals and eleven others
bearing geometric and floral patterns are
preserved in the National Museum of Anti-
quities, and a selection is illustrated in the
volume of Convent Charters issued for the
Bannatyne Club. A residue lies within one of
the vaulted cellars of the nunnery. An inter-
esting discovery in course of excavation was a
mediæval brick kiln, which is situated beside
the modern entrance to the property. A well
on the bank above the ruins has the name of
Abb's Well, and in the ground near by some
lead piping was found.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-This house for Cistercian
nuns was founded probably in the third quarter
of the 12th century, since some time before
1177 Duncan, " dei gratia " Earl of Fife, con-
firmed a grant to the nuns by his father, Earl
59
Duncan, of the land of " Gillecamestone,"
otherwise " Gillecalmestun," upon which the
buildings of the convent were erected. This
same Duncan senior had founded two hospitals,
one at the north harbour of the ferry, that is
at the port known as " Ardros," the other at
the south harbour, which was North Berwick,
the name of the crossing being still preserved
in Earlsferry on the Fife shore (passagium
Comitis in 1303);1 and these hospitals were
granted to the nunnery by the second Earl
Duncan along with certain lands in Fife and
other revenues. The nuns were obliged to
receive into the hospitals poor folk and pilgrims
as far as the capacity of these places allowed.
Later grants by Earl Duncan the second and
his successor Malcolm conferred some Fife
churches on the nunnery. Another benefactor
was Duncan, Earl of Carrick, from whom came
a revenue from land and the church of May-
bole in Ayrshire. The convent also possessed
estates in the immediate neighbourhood of
North Berwick.
A witness to a charter of Earl Malcolm (a 1228)
is James " prior (sic) of Noberwic." A sub-
prioress appears on record in 1220, a prioress
and " master " are in another document and
a prioress and " master of the same nuns "
in a confirmatory grant by a Prior of St.
Andrews in 1293. In 1386 Elena de Carric was
prioress, but very few successors are named till
we come to a succession of Hume ladies in the
16th century, when the position became vir-
tually a perquisite of the Humes of Polwarth.
A papal bull of Clement VII., calendared in
H.M. Register House and dated 4 May, 1525,
confirms to Isabella Hume the priory of North
Berwick with the annual rents etc. thereof not
exceeding £125 on the resignation of Alison
Hume the former prioress. The total valued
revenue of the Convent in the thirteenth
century was £815 : 18 : 4 and at the Refor-
mation £556 : 17 : 8 in money besides income
in kind.
In 1539 William Fowler, chaplain of the alter
of the Holy Cross, in the church of the monas-
tery, granted to Alexander Hume his three
crofts with the consent of Prioress Isabella
Hume and the Convent. These eighteen
" dames " subscribe " with our hand at the
pen," as do the twenty nuns five years later
who make a further grant of property to |
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NORTH BERWICK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
Alexander Hume, son of the late Alexander
Hume of Polwarth. The names include four
Humes, and others bearing such names as
Halyburton, Crichton, Douglas, Sinclair, Ram-
say, etc., indicating that, as usual, the inmates
were probably drawn from the gentry of the
district. In 1548 Margaret, the prioress, and
the convent granted their principal estate at
North Berwick to (her brother) Alexander
Hume, brother of Patrick Hume of Polwarth,
in consideration of a sum of £2000 received for
the repair and rebuilding of their " place " as
well as for the payment of sums due by them.
Other alienations to other parties followed.
By 1586 " the place quhair the Abbay Kirk
and Closter of Northberuik stuid before . . .
is ruinous " and in 1587 the temporality or
other than purely ecclesiastical property of the
nunnery was erected into the barony of North
Berwick in favour of Alexander Hume. In
1596 Dame Margaret Hume as prioress and
one nun, Dame Margaret Donaldsone, were all
that remained of the conventual body, with no
revenues except what came from three of the
Fife churches, which, on the other hand, were
required for the support of ministers. These
therefore also were abandoned, and in 1597
an Act of Parliament ratified and approved of
the resignation of all the Kirks and suppressed
" the said Abbacie and Monasterie for euir."
A grant by the Archbishop of St. Andrews
of the perpetual vicarage of the church of
North Berwick, confirmed by Pope Clement
VII. in 1529-who alone speaks of the "abbess"
-had been made in consideration of its losses,
due to wars in which it was plundered and its
church burnt.
The perils to which the monastery was thus
exposed are further illustrated by the formal
restoration by the prioress Dame Margaret
Hume, on 14 May 1550, of valuables and vest-
ments committed to her custody " in time of
invasion by our old enemies of England."
These included a crucifix, apparently of silver
and a silver cross with eight chalices of silver,
making nine chalices with one still on pledge
in the hands of Patrick Hume of Polwarth, the
lady's brother, which was returned five years
later. There were also four " ornaments " of
cloth of gold, being a cope and vestments for
sub-deacon, deacon and priest with all the
tunicles, (in text teniculis) infulae, dalmatics,
60
amices, albs (in text abbis) stoles and corporals
pertaining thereto. To these the prioress of
her own gift added two copes, one of blue
velvet and another of fine green cloth (ex
bisso), as well as " a church ornament called
byrd-alexander " (i.e., of striped silk) with
vestments for the three clergy as above, and
another of fine white cloth " commonly called
quhit dames," that is white damask. The
convent " by a majority " (per majorem par-
tem) professed to have received all the articles
transferred to the prioress for custody in time
of war.
1 Cal. of Docts. &c. iv., p. 461. Carte
Monialium de Northberwic ; Registrum de
Dunfermylyn (Bannatyne Club).
ii. S.E. " North Berwick Abbey, Remains
of." 30 April 1915.
105. St. Baldred's Chapel on the Bass
Rock.-The ruin of the chapel is perched on a
grassy terrace on the
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 100.-St. Baldred's
Chapel, The Bass (No. 105)
southern side of the
rock at an elevation
of 200 feet above
ordnance datum. It
is a small undistin-
guished structure dat-
ing from the 16th
century. On plan (fig.
100) it is rectangular and measures externally
30 1/2 feet from east to west by 20 3/4 feet from
north to south; it is orientated 15 degrees south
of east. The walling is rubble built mainly in
the basalt of the rock but with a slight ad-
mixture of light coloured freestone, which has
been imported. Against the west gable are the
remains of a forestair, which led to a loft at the
western end ; the entrance to this loft had a
hollow chamfer wrought on its jambs, which,
being of freestone, are greatly eroded by
weather. The north wall and east gable are
blank ; the south wall contains the entrance
to the chapel towards the western end and,
east of this, two windows side by side. These
openings have been lintelled and have seg-
mental scoinson arches in rear, the dressings
being executed in greenish porphyry. The
entrance is chamfered on jambs and lintel.
The windows have been glazed and are rebated
in front of the glazing check for shutters. |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
The wall heads are 8 feet high, the gables are
skewed and have rudimentary skew-puts.
Internally the structure measures 25 feet
by 14 feet 6 inches. East of the entrance and
in the same wall there is a benatura in freestone.
The head is roughly ogival, but the bowl,
which has projected, is broken. The east
gable contains a recess, which also has a head
roughly ogival, constructed in red porphyry.
This was possibly a credence ; in it lies part
of an image too fragmentary to be identified.
At the end of the south wall is a small rect-
angular recess, undressed.
The ruin, despite its exposed situation, is in
a fair state of preservation.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-" 1542, The v. day of
January, M. Vilhelm Gybsone, Suffraganeus to
David Beton, Cardynall and Archbysschop of
Sant Andros, consecrat and dedicat the paris
kirk in the Craig of the Bass, in honor of Saint
Baldred, bysschop and confessor, &c." (Ex-
tracta e Variis Cronicis Scocie, Abbotsford
Club, p. 255). According to an unprinted bull
of Innocent VIII. the " parish church " of the
Bass was " newly erected " in 1492 and the
" rector " at that time was Robert Lauder.
iii. N.W. 9 July 1920
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
106. Tantallon Castle.-This castle, which
is situated about 2 1/2 miles east of North Ber-
wick, is built on one of the many small pro-
montories which, at this part of the coast line,
project into the Firth of Forth (fig. 101). The
site has been chosen with a view to economical
fortification and is the most suitable in the
vicinity for this purpose. The castle may
briefly be described as consisting of a great
screen wall thrown across the promontory
between points where the cliffs, rising sheer
from the sea to an elevation of some 100 feet,
are quite unscaleable and enclose to seaward an
oblong area measuring 250 feet from north-
north-west to south-south-east by 150 feet from
east-north-east to west-south-west (figs. 14 and
102).
OUTWORKS.-The castle is naturally pro-
tected to seaward, but the landward approach
is defended by a series of outworks, as shown
on the block plan. Some 200 yards west of
the castle there are an outermost ditch and a
61
rampart, returning before the castle between
the indentations on either side of the site, while
a second and greater ditch, apparently cut
through rock, is excavated 100 yards nearer
the castle; this latter has an outer earthen
rampart and an inner one which has been faced
with a heavy rubble wall but is constructed of
rubbish, in which is found cinder, pottery and
bone. There is an enclosure resembling a rave-
lin projecting westwards from the outer ram-
part. Between the angle of the ravelin and
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 101.-Tantallon Castle and the Bass (No. 106).
that of the outmost ditch and rampart is a
circular mound of sand about 32 feet in dia-
[marginal note]
?
meter and 3-5 feet high. As the middle ditch
returns southwards, it takes an eastward curve
and terminates in a gunlooped flanking wall
with a circular tower, also loop-holed, at the
southern end and a gateway on the north in line
with the inner rampart. East of the gateway
the flanking wall has apparently returned east-
wards and terminated in a second circular tower
at the edge of the innermost ditch, which is
cut through rock and which returns across the
promontory immediately in front of and
parallel to the castle (see fig. 14).
DOVECOT.-In the area enclosed by the two
inner ditches there is a 17th century dovecot,
oblong on plan, containing two chambers (fig.
26).
CASTLE BUILDINGS.-The buildings consist
of a central gatehouse or Mid Tower, from
which extends to the north-west and east-north-
east a great curtain wall about 50 feet in height,
terminating at either extremity of the site in
circled towers (figs. 103 and 104). The north-
ern side of the enclosure is occupied by the
ruins of a range of buildings (fig. 105); the east
and south sides are now open but originally
would be enclosed by the high screen walls of |
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[Illustration inserted]
FIG. 102.-Tantallon Castle (No. 106). See Addenda p. 156
62 |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 103.-Front and Outworks.
FIG. 104.-Front.
FIG. 105.-Interior.
TANTALLON CASTLE (No. 106).
To face p. 63. |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
which traces can still be seen. A series of beam
holes and weather tables indicates that there
were wooden structures against the inner face
of the east wall. Within the enclosure or
courtyard there is a circular well, which is
sunk through the rock to a depth of 106 feet.
With regard to the different periods of building
shown in the castle it may be said generally
that the earlier masonry is coursed rubble of a
reddish freestone with an admixture of ashlar
relieved by offset and corbel courses, while the
later work is rubble built in a greenish volcanic
stone with red freestone bands and dressing.
The front of the gatehouse has been greatly
altered, and what remains is largely obscured
[marginal note]
J.S.R.
by the great frontal addition built after 1528.
In the original arrangement the entrance, pro-
tected by fosse, drawbridge and portcullis, lay
within a forework formed by two rectangular
piers salient to the curtain and surmounted by
massive and lofty circular turrets joined by an
arch at the present height of the curtain
parapets. Into the recess formed by piers and
arch the drawbridge fitted when raised. The
turrets probably terminated in embattled para-
pets and rose three storeys to the height of the
Mid-tower ; the space between them was not
covered but enclosed by a parapet in front and
[marginal note]
So originally
at Dirleton
by the walls of the turrets and Mid-tower at
the sides and back. The first alteration,
apparently executed shortly after the Mid-
tower and forework were completed, was the
addition of a barbican carried outwards from
the forework to the main ditch ; this was
probably open and provided with parapet
walks entered from a mural stair, part of which
still remains, in the southern wall of the
barbican ; the drawbridge seems to have fallen
out of use at this time, for the fosse or pit
between the piers of the forework was semi-
permanently bridged with timber transoms and
[marginal note]
As at Dirleton
decking. In the 16th century the barbican
was closed at the inner end by a door some
11 1/2 feet out from the forework, and this door,
which is now the outer door of the castle, was
repaired and provided with a new head at the
time of the main addition i.e., after 1528.
In or following the siege of 1528, the upper
part of the forework seems to have been
demolished but was subsequently reconstructed
and entirely altered in appearance. An ar-
morial panel was placed high up on the new
63
front ; this is now greatly decayed, but what
remains suggests that the bearings and sup-
porters are those of the Earl of Angus. The
recess between the piers was filled in with
masonry leaving a low vaulted trance between
the original entrance and the door of the
barbican and the whole front was carried
11 1/2 feet forward in solid masonry, save for a
tiny chamber above the door in the barbican.
The forework now terminated upwards in an
open platform at its present level, approxi-
mately that of the parapets of the curtains.
The north-west turret and the barbican were
extensively repaired, and the latter was ceiled
and floored with stone vaults. Gun-ports were
formed just beyond the old piers to rake the
main ditch, and these contained recesses for a
cross-beam on which a light gun might be
mounted ; a similar provision may be ob-
served very clearly in the forebuilding at
[marginal note]
Ravenscraig
Dunnottar Castle, Kincardinshire. A gun-
loop commanding the barbican trance is
found in the chamber above the barbican door,
and fragments of a second loop, probably a
later insertion, in the barbican wall.
What is here termed the gatehouse had thus
come to consist of what was known later (see
Historical Note) as the Fore Tower or forework
and the Mid-tower or inner structure. The
latter is an oblong structure over 70 feet in
height measuring 41 1/4 feet from north-west to
south-east by 28 feet ; it rises two storeys
above the curtains and provided five storeys
beneath the wallheads, which were surmounted
by parapet walks. The roof appears to have
been flat. The entrance is a lofty archway,
9 1/2 feet wide, having an obtusely pointed head,
which springs from a moulded impost on the
ingoing ; the archivolt is moulded and stops
on chamfer planes. In the archway, which
opens on a central trance, are the remains of
the portcullis chase, and above this may be
traced provision for the mechanism of the
drawbridge. The trance penetrates the Mid
Tower and opens to the courtyard through a
large arched gateway, above which there
appears to have been a machicolation ; this
archway was subsequently contracted. There
were great double doors at either end of
the trance and a third almost midway in its
length.
Opening off the trance on the south is a |
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NORTH BERWICK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
small vaulted chamber, 13 feet by 8 feet
2 inches, and on the north a vaulted passage
admitting to a straight stair, which in turn
led to a wheel-stair in the thickness of the
north curtain wall. The wheel-stair ascended
from the first floor level to the parapet
walk of the curtain, but it was built up circa
16th century, when a new stair tower was built
in the north-east re-entering angle of the
Mid Tower. Only the ground floor of the
Mid Tower had a stone vault ; the other
storeys had wooden floors, and each comprised
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 106. Pit, Tantallon Castle (No. 106).
a single apartment, from which led off small
rooms in the piers of the forework and garde-
robes in the thickness of the wall going east.
The principal apartments of the Mid Tower
have fireplaces with moulded jambs and pro-
jecting hoods and were mainly lit by the
windows in the east wall.
The main curtain walls, on either side of the
gatehouse tower, are over 12 feet thick above
an offset towards the base and are 107 feet
and 96 1/2 feet respectively in length. The north-
eastern portion is built on a continuous line,
but the north-western part is dog-legged. In
the former portion are two staircases, and in
64
the latter portion three, the third being the
original stair serving the gatehouse building,
which stair was partially built up in the 16th
century. The other stairs enter from the
courtyard and rise to the parapet walk. Small
mural chambers open off the staircases; but most
of these are or have been built up. The con-
tiguous arching and lintelling of the stair
passages is noteworthy. A lean-to structure
had been erected against the inner face of the
south-eastern portion of the curtain. It was
originally of a single storey, at the south-east
end, the rest being two-storeyed, but subse-
quently an additional floor was inserted.
The circled terminal towers are very ruinous.
They are the same height as the gatehouse
building, and most of the apartments in the
south-east tower have, at one time, been
vaulted, but the vaults were apparently not
original. The lowest storey of the north-
west or Douglas tower is complete below the
ground level and comprises a dark vaulted pit
(fig. 106) with a ventilation flue to the north
and a garderobe with soil flue, which is reached
from a mural stair in the north-eastern angle
of the chamber. The lowest storey of the
south-east tower is also complete and is
vaulted, but the vault is not original. The
gun-loops to south-west and south-east are
later insertions. A mural chamber to the east
of this floor, with which it communicates, is a
garderobe with soil flue. The floor levels of
this tower have been altered, and there seems
to have been a good deal of reconstruction in
the 16th century.
The north curtain, which was surmounted
by an allure or walk beneath a penthouse, is
incorporated in a building two storeys high,
of which only the western half remains. It
contains a series of vaulted chambers at
ground level and a hall on the floor above.
At the eastern end was a bakehouse having
two circular ovens, lined with tiles, set over
the cliff. Only the throats of the ovens re-
main. The vaulting of the basement as well
as the partition walls are manifestly later than
the lateral walls, which are contemporary with
the oldest building. The north wall on the
lower floor has narrow windows, a fireplace
partially obscured by a partition wall and a
garderobe at the north-eastern angle. The
south wall has a central doorway mainly |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
original, but the windows on either side have
been altered ; one of the original windows
remains built up at the western end. The hall
was entered from the west through a round
headed doorway ornamented with an edge roll
on jambs and head, and was an oblong apart-
ment lit by windows in the lateral walls and
also by a clerestory above the south windows.
The lower windows have been lintelled, but
the clerestory windows have obtusely pointed
arched heads. The north wall shows the
remains of a fireplace and is pierced by two
slop drains. The west gable shows a particu-
larly interesting feature in the raggles for the
roof timbers, by which the construction of the
roof trusses is made clear. The corbels in the
lateral walls supported wall trusses bracing the
tie beams, but this construction is secondary,
since it appears that originally there was a
third floor supported on corbels and a scarce-
ment, which was lit by the present clerestory
and entered from the allure.
About 88 feet north-east from the tower,
the north curtain contains an opening which
may have been a postern.
The castle is now in the hands of H.M.
Office of Works, which is carrying out the
necessary repairs.
LANDING STAGE.-In the bay immediately
north-west of the castle, a series of post holes
[marginal note]
J.S.R.
are formed in a stretch of rock jutting seawards.
The holes are about 3 feet apart and the
construction had a width of 12 feet.
? CRANE BASTION.-On the edge of the cliff
at Oxroad Bay, 200 yards south-south-east of
the outer gate of the castle, is a fragment of
masonry probably the remains of a parapet in
front of a crane seat ; the masonry is rubble
2 feet in thickness and resembles the walling
of the round tower at the castle gate.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Tantallon, in the form
" Dentaloune," appears as a castellated site on
a map which has been dated as before 1300.1
(Cf. footnote on next col.). At that time the
barony of North Berwick, including Tantallon,
was in possession of the Earls of Fife. If the
dating of the map is approximately correct,
then it can only be said that no part of a 13th
century castle has been identified in the present
building. Otherwise the earliest mention of
the castle is in 1374 when William, first Earl
of Douglas and Mar writes from " our castle
65
of Temptaloun " and refers to a voyage on
two occasions to St. Andrews " in great danger
from the sea."2 Douglas held the castle with
the barony of North Berwick as a tenantry
from the Earls of Fife.3 James, second Earl of
Douglas and Mar, fell at Otterburn in 1388.
His only sister Isabel had married Sir Malcolm
Drummond, brother-in-law of King Robert III,
to whom as Countess of Mar she conveyed the
title dominus de Mar,4 as well as Douglas lands;
which explains how Sir Malcolm Drummond
had in 1389 a protection from Richard II. for
himself and all his possessions including the
castle of " Teintalon."5 There was some
question as to the legal heirs of the Douglas
properties.6 Robert Stewart, Earl of Fife and
Monteith, afterwards Duke of Albany, on re-
suming the barony and castle until the proper
heir should be invested, found the place
occupied by Margaret, surviving widow of the
first Earl, to whom he gave permission to stay
there " als lang that Castel happynnys to be
in wr hand."7 Meantime the constable of the
castle was Alan Lauder of the Bass.8 The
issue as to the Douglas succession was settled
in terms of an early entail of the property, and
Archibald Douglas ' the Grim ' was established
in the Douglas title and lands.9 In the spring
of 1425 the Duchess of Albany (Countess of
Fife) was imprisoned in Tantallon, and in 1429
the rebellious Alexander, Lord of the Isles was
sent thither to be under the custody of William
Earl of Angus.10 The forfeiture of the Duke
of Albany and Earl of Fife would be followed
by the transfer of the properties, including
the castle, to the Crown, and tenants would
become Crown vassals. The eighth Earl of
Douglas was assassinated by James II. in
February 1452 and in June of that year there
is a grant to George Douglas, Earl of Angus,
Warden of the East Marches, " for services
rendered gratuitously to the King," of Tan-
tallon and the lands pertaining to the castle,
" Castiltoune ,* Bondyrytoun, Samyltoun and
the lands called Half-pleuland," the whole,
with some other royal lands near, to be held as
* The villa called Castleton seems to be older
than the castle as it now appears. In 1335-7 it
was equipped with fishing boats and two breweries,
the latter belonging to the Earl of Fife, and in it
Patrick of Herdmanston had a " tenement " or
holding. (Bain's Calendar iii. pp. 352-3, 339).
5 |
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[NORTH BERWICK. HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
a free barony.11 The forfeiture of the sixth
Earl of Angus in 1528 was followed by a siege
of the place by James V. in the year after,
when, according to Pitscottie,12 he employed
against it two great cannons (probably of 8 in.
bore) " thrawn mouth and her marrow "
(companion), 2 great " battartis " or bastard
culverins (4 1/2 in. bore), 2 " moyans " (medium
pieces, 2 double falcons (a falcon=2 1/2 in. bore)
and 4 quarter falcons. Even this battery
failed to do sufficient damage to the place,
which was secured ultimately for the king by
a bargain with its governor. It would seem
that the gunpowder of the besiegers had given
out and that a supply could be got only from
France. Impressed by this experience the king
" caussit maissounis come and reinforce the
samin wallis quhilk was left waist of befoir,
as transses (closes or passages) and throw
(through) passagis and maid all massie work
to that effect that it sould be unwinabill in
tymes comming to ony enemeis that would
come to persew (attack) it." To this work
may be attributed the narrowing of the entrance
pend and the blocking of certain rooms, as
still to be observed, in all of which the material
used consists of the easily recognised green
[marginal note]
tuff
blocks from the shore. After the death
of James V, Angus, having been an exile in
England, was reinstated in his possessions and
acted as an agent of Henry VIII, until he made
good his position in his own country. By the
autumn of 1543 the English schemes in Scot-
land had gone to wreck amid furious local
unpopularity, and Sir Ralph Sadler, the English
ambassador at Edinburgh, retired to a refuge
in Tantallon, though the place was then " un-
furnished and almoste all the lodginges taken
doone to be newe buylded."13 Nor could
furniture or provisions be bought nearer than
Edinburgh. The " lodginges " are obviously
the structures on the north wall, of which the
later ruins are described above, and those
against the main curtain. Sadler made shift
to stay there about two months. Henry
wished to provide the place with victuals and
guns in his own interest, but the Douglases had
no enthusiasm for such a project, and Sir
George, Angus's brother, responded that " he
thought it was furnished well and all the
substaunce that his brodyr and he and all
theyr frendes had was in it, and that they had
66
ordinaunce that wolde shote two mylys and
ynough of it."14 Hertford would have turned
aside on his march back from the invasion
of the following year to assault the place but
was deterred by " lack of caryages for gret
pieces of artillerye also for lack of powder."15
The final appearance of Tantallon as a military
factor was as a base of attack on Cromwell's
communications with Scotland in 1650-51.
Thirty horse, " desperado gallants," had estab-
lished themselves there at the close of 1650
and " taken more men and done us more harm
than the whole Scots army or all their other
garrisons." With the Bass, too, its guns
commanded the seaward passage (Cf. p. 71)
The place was being approached by " Colonel "
Monk with 2000-3000 men about the middle of
February 1651, when " the town, where were
many pretty houses, for Scotland, and a
thousand pounds worth of corn " were
" burnt by the Governor." The site of the
town is probably preserved in the present
" Castleton " farm. Then " the outhouses . . .
were gained and the Scots beaten from them,
and from the works they then made." These
works may be represented by the remains of
a ravelin and outer ditches. " After battery
and playing with granadoes " (shells), but
particularly as the result of the " six battering
pieces " (probably 30-40 pounders) brought
from Edinburgh Castle-two days of granadoes
having failed to make sufficient impression-
the garrison first beat a parley, then hung out
a " little clout " finally a great sheet, all of
which tokens were disregarded, and the Gover-
nor himself had to come upon the wall to
request a parley. By this time it is said, the
ditch in front was filled by the debris of the
fore-wall-this fore-wall apparently being that
of the middle ditch (cf. p. 67) ; of this wall
some fragments still remain. The garrison who
marched out numbered by that time " about
fourscore men . . and about a dozen good
horses " ; another account says " 91 officers
and soldiers " ; within were " 15 or 16 great
guns and about 120 spare arms." This success-
ful operation " cleared the Passage between
Edinburgh and Berwick."16 A narrative, from
the Scottish side runs thus : " Fryday, 21
Febrij, 1651. About 4 in the eiuning Tantallon
castle, in Louthean, was randred to Cornwell,
after he had battred at the for wall 12 dayes |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
continually with grate canon. Capitane Alex-
ander Setton" (afterwards of Whittingham and
Lord Kingston cf. Art. No. 213) " defendit the
same gallantly ; bot after that the enimeyes
canon had oppind a werey large breache, and
filled the dray (dry) ditche with the wall, he
entred it by storme. The capitane and thesse few
men [which] wer with him, betooke themselves
to [the] tower . . . bot the enimey seeing them
stand gallantly to it, preferrid them quarters,
wich they excepted (accepted)."17 Thereafter
the place was of account only as a residence,
remaining habitable till, in 1699 (cf. Introd.
p. xxii), the barony was sold to Sir Hew
Dalrymple, Lord-President of the Court of
Session, after which it was left to fall into
decay.
In H.M. Register House, Edinburgh, is a
schedule of the munition and artillery equip-
ment of the castle on February 3 1559/7.
Parts of the building are differentiated as East
Tower, Fore Tower, Douglas Tower (i.e., the
tower on the north-west), Mid Tower, Munition
House with a " Chalmer " beside it, a Work
House, the Hall Loft, and a Vault and a
Cellar under the Hall.
An inventory of the contents of the castle
c. 1670 gives some further information as to
plan and equipment. The castle had "four iron
yettis at the entrie and ane iron yet at the
tumbler (sic) with shod perculieris (portcullis)."
There was a well-chamber with a chamber
"next thereto" another chamber "second to the
welchamber "-both furnished-and a stable
" next thereto." These details apparently
refer to the structure within the southern
portion of the great west curtain. A garden
chamber had an " out roume " and an " inner
roume." Kitchen and bakehouse follow, and
then a "dyneing roume," "my ladies chamber,"
" the lang hall,"-all probably in the north
wing-a " chamber in Dowglas towre,"-
that on the north-west-"the reid chamber,"
"the bleu chamber" and a chamber "nixt
thereto." The " turpyk (turnpike) that leades
wp to the turpyk " can be identified in the
inner north corner of the Mid Tower. The
" lang loft " was probably over the rooms and
stable, mentioned above, against the main
curtain. The drawbridge had " four iron bands
thereon."18 There is an inventory also (1582)
67
of the seventh Earl of Angus, but it is a list
[marginal note]
See also info,
p. 156.
only of various domestic fabrics.19
1 Nat. MSS. of Scotland, Part iii, No. ii. ;
2 Liber de Melros, ii., p. 479 ; 3 Acta Parl. i.,
pp. 555, 565 ; 4 Reg. Mag. Sig. i., 324, 503,
631 ; 5 Cal. Docts. iv., No. 391 ; 6 Acta Parl.
p. 555 ; 7 Douglas Book, iii., pp. 32-3 ; 8 Hist.
MSS. Com. v., p. 611; 9 Acta Parl. i., pp. 557-8;
10 Scotichron. Lib. xvi., cap. x., xvi.; 11 Reg.
Mag. Sig. ii., No. 584 ; 12 Historie and Cron-
icles of Scotland, S.T.S. vol. ii., p. 331, Lib.
xxi. cap. xix. ; 13 Ham. Papers ii., p. 121 ;
14 Ham. MSS, ii., p. 169 ; 15 Ibid ii., p. 380 ;
16 Cromwell's Scotch Campaigns, pp. 230-4.
Whitelocke's Memorials (London 1732) pp. 488,
489 ; 17 Balfour's Annales of Scotland vol. iv.,
p. 249. The reference to Cromwell is of course
not personal ; Monk, under Cromwell's com-
mand, conducted the siege ; 18 Douglas Book,
iii., p. 343 ; 19 Cal. State Papers, Scotland, vi.,
pp. 182-3.
iii. S.W. June 1919: September 1924.
107. Fenton Tower.-The ruin of this tower,
which dates from the end of the 16th century,
occupies a con-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 107.-Fenton Tower
(No. 107).
spicuous posit-
ion on the rising
ground of King-
ston Hill two
miles south of
North Berwick.
The structure
is built on an
L-plan (fig.
107), with the
main block lying east and west and the short
wing projecting southwards in alinement with
the west gable. This main block contained
three storeys and an attic floor, the latter lit
by dormer windows. The wing terminated
some 40 feet above the ground in turrets at
the southern angles, all traces of which, save
the corbellings that bore them, have dis-
appeared. The lowest storey of this portion
is occupied by the main staircase, which
ascended only to the first floor. Above
this level are three storeys, each of one apart-
ment, reached from a turret staircase corbelled
out in the re-entering angle. From the north
wall of the main block a semicircular tower |
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NORTH BERWICK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
projects and contains between ground and first
floor levels a small circular staircase (originally
the only internal access between these levels)
and above the latter level, three floors, each of
a single circular chamber only 6 feet in diameter.
These were entered from a turret stair corbelled
out in the east re-entering angle. In the
corresponding angle on the west a garderobe
is corbelled out but at a higher level.
The elevations are plain and relieved only
by the disposition of corbelled turrets ; the
walling is of rubble uncoursed, at one time
rough cast, with freestone quoins, jambs and
corbellings. The latter are well proportioned,
with a bold contour, and have been carefully
wrought. The windows and other apertures of
any size have relieving arches. The first floor
windows facing south have been cut down at a
subsequent period apparently to permit of an
alteration on the floor levels. The only mould-
ing employed seems to be the edge roll, and
that is sparingly used.
The structure (fig. 19) stands fairly complete
to the wall heads but has two rents in the south
wall between the ground and first floors.
The basement is divided unequally by a
cross partition, which is carried up through all
the storeys, into two chambers, which have
evidently had vaulted ceilings. In this par-
tition must have been a door between the
chambers, but in addition the smaller chamber
on the east communicated with the upper floor
by the circular staircase on the north, and the
larger chamber with the exterior by a doorway
in the west gable. The door between this
chamber and the main staircase does not
appear to have been originally intended, and
the slapping in the east gable of the smaller
room is comparatively modern.
The windows lighting these rooms are small,
with 10 inch daylights widening internally to
3 feet between the jambs, and are disposed in
the lateral walls. In the west gable, on either
side of the entrance doorway is a cupboard
2 feet 9 inches broad. The basement apart-
ments are 16 feet broad by 30 feet 8 inches
and 16 feet 2 inches long respectively.
The staircases are ruinous, and the vaults of
the lowest apartments have fallen in, rendering
the upper floors inaccessible, but on the first
floor the arrangement of the rooms below is
repeated. The larger apartment would be the
68
hall, the smaller a private room. On the floors
above are three apartments, the western portion
being divided by a partition. These were
reached from the turret stairs on north and
south, which also communicated with the
little rooms in the wing and the north tower.
The entrance to the wing is placed in the
re-entering angle below the corbelling of the
turret staircase. The doorway has an edge-roll
on the lintel, above which is an empty recess
for an armorial panel, which is stated in Croall's
Sketches of East Lothian, to have borne the
arms of the Carmichael family with the initials
J C for John Carmichael, and the date 1577
(? see below). The staircase is wide and circular
on plan and was lit by a window, now built up,
in the south wall.
The main block measures externally 57 feet
by 23 1/2 feet. The wing projects 13 feet south-
wards and is 17 feet broad. The walls are
4 feet thick.
The exterior of the structure is wonderfully
complete, considering that it has received little
or no attention of late years, but, if left un-
tended much longer, it soon will fall into a
ruinous condition.
CRUCIFORM CARVING.-A square dressed
block of yellowish freestone is built into a
stone wall on Kingston Hill within 200 yards
of Fenton Tower. It measures 10 1/2 inches by
12 inches on face and bears an incised Maltese
cross, within the arms of which is the date
1607.1
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In 1587 John Carmi-
chael of Carmichael, afterwards Sir John, and
his wife Margaret Douglas had a grant of the
lands of East Fentoun commonly called ' Fen-
tountoure ' or Over Sydserf with fortalice and
manor, etc., which had come into the King's
hands by the forfeiture of Patrick Whytelaw
of that place.2 Apparently there was a tower
in Whytelaw's time, as might be expected.3
1 Cf. Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xli., 432 ; 2 R.M.S.
s.a. No. 1348 ; 3 Act. Parl. Scot. iii., p. 603.
v. N.E. 8 July 1913.
108. The Bass Castle.-The stock of trachyte
known as the Bass Rock in the estuary of the
Forth, slightly over 3 miles east-north-east of
North Berwick and 1 1/4 miles from the shore, is
a natural strength that required but little |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
artifice to make it unassailable. The rock rises
almost sheer on all sides but the south to a
height of 350 feet above the sea. The process
of denudation has resulted in a steep but
ascendable western slope from base to crest
and in the formation of terraces or rather
ledges in the rock. The landing is on a low
spur of rock at the south-east corner, and the
fortifications may be summarised as screen
walls, lodged on terraces, shutting off this
landing from the remainder of the rock (fig.
110). The remains which exist are of 16th
century date, and are built in rubble of the trap
rock of the site with an admixture of imported
light coloured freestone in the dressings. Facing
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 108.-The Bass Castle (No. 108).
south-south-west, a great wall, averaging
40 feet in height, returns just above the 100
feet contour line between the cliffs on east and
west at a distance of 100 feet back from the
southern brink ; from this wall a second, dis-
posed almost rectangularly to the first, returns
in a southerly direction on the slope to the
edge of the cliff (fig. 108). These walls are
surmounted by parapets crenellated for guns,
and the first mentioned terminates at its
western end in an angular projecting battery.
A half-moon battery, with a low vaulted under
chamber fitted with gun ports, is placed at the
lower level of the cliff verge at the southern
end of the outer wall ; the higher wall alone
has salient projections.
From the landing there is rough walking
over the uneven surface of the rock to an
69
entrance in the east screen wall, and 79 feet
inwards from this lies the return of the southern
screen, within which is an enclosure 17 feet
long and 15 feet wide before the gable of the
residential portion. This latter is a structure
of two storeys and a garret ; below the lowest
storey a pended staircase ascends to the higher
level of the terrace beyond. The freestone
jambs and lintels of the entrance to the dwelling
are chamfered, but the only other moulded
feature is the fragmentary fireplace on the
lowest floor, which has moulded jambs and
head, the latter slightly ogival in form. Beyond
this structure to the west, there are against
the back of the terrace the ruins of a range of
[illustration continued]
FIG. 108.-The Bass Castle (No. 108).
two storeyed buildings, which, with the little
chamber opposite formed in a projection of
the screen wall, housed the Covenanting
prisoners in the last quarter of the 17th century.
In this latter dwelling was lodged John Black-
adder, minister of Traquair, whoo died in con-
finement here at the age of 70. Although tiny,
measuring only 8 feet 2 inches by 10 feet
9 inches, it has been a not unpleasant chamber,
being furnished with fireplace, windows and a
door opening out on the parapet walk. Beneath
it is an irregularly shaped well of masonry
about 6 feet in diameter, which has a present
depth of 8 feet. It is provided with a door
opening on the open passage between the
screen and the structures at the back of the
terrace. This well is popularly held to have
been a bottle dungeon for the incarceration of |
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[Illustrations inserted]
By kind permission of the owner of the original drawing, Sir Hew Hamilton Dalrymple, Bart.
FIG. 109.-Plan and view of the Bass c. 1700 (No. 108).
FIG. 110.-The Bass (No. 108).
70 |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
refractory prisoners, but the suggestion is not
borne out by the remains. Where the modern
lighthouse stands was the site of the Governor's
House. The parapetted screen wall before it
is contemporary with the remainder of the
castle.
Two views of the structures on the Bass are
given in Slezer's Theatrum Scotiae, plates 56
and 57. A view and plan of the place in c.
1700 is reproduced in fig. 109.
The ruins are in a bad state of preservation.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-On the Lauders of the
Bass see Introd. p. xxii. In 1338 Alexander
de Ramsay in a boat from the Bass ran the
blockade of Dunbar Castle.1 In March 1405
Prince James, on his way to France, went by
boat from North Berwick to " the Castell of
the Bas," where he waited for a ship from
Leith and thence sailed to his capture off the
Yorkshire coast.2 On his return nineteen years
later King James committed Walter Stewart,
eldest son of the Duke of Albany, to ' close
custody ' in the same place.3 In 1548-9 the
Bass came within the range of the English
and Franco-Scottish operations about Hadding-
ton and was summarily described by Jean de
Beaugué, the historian of these events. This
writer notes how there was but one landing,
which was on the castle side and very difficult,
so that it could be approached by small boats
only, one at a time. Moreover there was no
safe footing till one got to the castle wall,
so that messengers to the captain had first a
rope thrown to them to help them in ascending
and then, on reaching the foot of the wall,
were drawn up in a large basket. This was then
the only way of entering the castle. There
had been a postern, but at this time it was
utterly ruined and unserviceable.4 A royal
confirmation of a grant of 1635 specifies " the
north side of the island and rock of the Bas
with the towers." When equipped with guns
the Bass could be a menace to enemy traffic
by sea.5 At the time of Cromwell's invasion
of Scotland it was held against him on behalf
of the laird of Waughton,6 and on 11 January
1651 an English vessel-the John of London,
265 tons burden-bound for Leith, with
supplies including " Cromwell's two trunks "
was taken by 2 the Capitane of the Basse,"
the capture being on the English side attri-
71
buted to the " wilful cowardice of the master,"
who yielded " upon the shot of a piece or two
from the Bass and Tomtallan."7 In 1671 the
Bass was purchased for the Crown, and the
castle became a State prison, most of the
occupants in this capacity at the time being
Covenanters. The great event in the history
of the fortress was when four Jacobite officers
confined there in 1691 managed to surprise the
place, got rid of the keepers and held the
fortress for King James for nearly three years.
In 1701 the place was dismantled and the
ordnance removed.8
1 Cf. Art. No. 36 ; 2 Scotich. Lib. xv., cap.
xviii. ; Wyntoun Bk. ix. chap. 23 ; 3 Scotich.
Lib. xvi., cap. ix. ; 4 Histoire de la Guerre
d'Ecosse, p. 121 ; 5 Cf. Art. No. 106 ; 6 Cf.
Introd. p. xxxi ; 7 Balfour's Annales, iv p. 214 ;
Cromwell's Scotch Campaigns, p. 215 ; 8 New
Stat. Acct.
iii. N.W. 9 July 1920.
109. Seacliff Tower.-A ruinous structure,
that probably dates from the end of the 16th
century, stands on an exposed position on the
cliffs above the Car rocks nearly 700 yards
east of the Seacliff estate buildings. The
building has been oblong, measures 20 feet
wide externally and has a present length of
47 feet ; at the western end there has been a
small rectangular wing, probably a stair tower.
The northern angle of the building stands to a
height of 12 feet, but the upper 8 feet of this
has been rebuilt. The walls are reduced in
places to the present ground level, but the
north-west wall is sufficiently high to show
remains of a fireplace, slop drain and window.
The building is known locally as " Silgo's
Lookout."
DOVECOT.-At old Scoughall, 150 yards
south-west of the tower is a square 17th
century dovecot of Tantallon type (fig. 26),
measuring 16 feet by 16 feet in height at the
eaves ; the roof is of flags. The entrance is
in the south wall and has double doors. In
the west wall a small window has been inserted
at a later time.
iii. S.W. 21 December 1923. |
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NORTH BERWICK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [NORTH BERWICK.
ENCLOSURES.
110. Walled Enclosures and Kitchen Middens,
[marginal note]
See A.O. Curle ,
The Prehistoric
Monuments of
Scotland (Rhind
lectures , 1918)
- typescript in Aber-
deen Unis. Library
(No. NO 2006) ,
p. 148.
North Berwick Law.-Barely a mile to the
south of North Berwick is North Berwick Law,
a conical mass of basalt, rising to a height of
613 feet above sea-level and about 400 feet
above the level land adjoining. A great part
of its surface is rocky and steep, but towards
the south and south-west, near the base, are
stretches of gentle grassy slopes with numerous
small terraces or benches above, which are
faced with rock. Many of these benches seem
to have been walled in to form enclosures
either for human habitation or for cattle or
sheep-folds ; others show traces of walls on
the ends and lower sides only, and some are
slightly excavated on the upper side as well.
As they are commanded by the higher ground
above, they can not have been for defensive
purposes. On the south-western shoulder of
the hill, about 100 feet above the road which
gives access to the Law, on a moderate grassy
slope, are two adjoining rectangular enclosures
walled on the ends and along the lower side
and slightly excavated on the upper side.
The walls have been of stone, but these have
nearly disappeared, and the remains are over-
grown with grass. They are placed end to end,
the longer axis running north-west and south-
east. The larger enclosure lies to the south-east
and measures 33 feet in length by 25 feet in
breadth. It is entered by a gap, 6 feet wide, in
the south-eastern end. The wall at present
shows a width of about 7 feet and rises only a
few inches above ground. At the south-western
corner a flat stone set on edge seems to indicate
the outer face of the wall at this place. A
doorway, 4 feet wide, in the north-western
end, leads into the smaller enclosure, which is
22 feet in length by 15 feet in breadth, the
excavated north-eastern side of both enclosures
being in line. Several slabs set on edge on the
south-western or lower side show the line of
the wall. Near the north-western corner a
small part of the end wall is exposed and shows
several courses of flat stones carefully built.
On a higher bench on the southern side of
the hill, three roughly circular areas, walled
with stone, lie close to one another in a line
running in an easterly and westerly direction.
The most easterly enclosure is some 18 feet
in diameter internally, the next is 27 feet in
72
diameter, and the third, which is oval, is 33
feet by 27 feet. On the southern arc of the
latter a portion showing both faces of wall
near the foundation measures 4 1/2 feet in breadth.
To the westward, about the same level, is a
roughly quadrilateral area, 18 to 20 feet across,
enclosed by a setting of seven stones, which
vary from 5 feet to 1 foot 10 inches in length
and are set on the long edge. The entrance,
6 feet wide, seems to have been in the eastern
wall.
Along the southern base of the Law, between
the rocky outcrops and the large quarry that
skirts the hill on this side, is a gentle slope
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass.
Many stone foundations of large and small
enclosures can be traced here, and the lower
part of the slope is covered with kitchen
middens containing very many animal bones
and shells of the limpet and whelk.1
Where the ground has been tirred prepara-
tory to quarrying, great numbers of bones of
animals are seen in the face of the cutting.
One section above the rock of the quarry shows
18 inches of reddish stony soil covered with a
stratum of broken stone 6 inches thick, above
which is a layer 1 1/2 feet at least of dark soil.
This intermediate band of stone extends pro-
bably 30 or 40 yards east and west, and the
question is whether it is a geological formation
or a human floor. The stone is the same as
in the quarry. Under this floor a number of
bones were seen, including the scapula of an
animal.
1 See further Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot. vol. xli.
(1906-7) pp. 424-30.
ii. S.E. 11 November 1913.
111. Rock Shelter.-At a point in the cliff
between the Yellow Man and Leckmoram Ness,
where the rock overhangs and is indented, a
slightly curved wall can be traced forming a
shelter.
iii. N.W. 11 November 1913.
CAIRN.
112. Cairn, West Links, North Berwick.-In a
bunker between the 12th and 13th holes on the
West Golf Course at North Berwick are the
remains of a cairn, which has been about 18 |
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NORTH BERWICK.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [NORTH BERWICK.
feet in diameter. In 1907 there was found, on
the southern ridge of the mound, a stone cist
containing the remains of a skeleton and an
urn of the food vessel type. Other skeletal
remains were discovered against the outside of
the south wall of the cist, and a few fragments
of another urn were recovered 3 feet farther
south. Some 50 yards west of the 12th hole
the remains of a human skeleton were found
3 feet below the surface. Cf. Proc. Soc. Ant.
Scot. vol. xli. (1906-7), p. 393.
ii N.E. 11 November 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
113. Stones at Manse, North Berwick.-
The following fragments of architectural and
antiquarian interest are built into a rockery in
front of the manse. They are understood to
have been removed from the Nunnery ruins.
(a) A 13th century base from a wall arcade
7 1/2 inches high by 12 inches broad across the
lowest member. The shaft has had a diameter
of 5 inches.
(b) A 13th century foliaceous capital 1 foot
1 inch in height by 1 foot 3 inches in breadth.
(c) The lower portion of a recumbent grave-
slab 6 inches thick with a mean breadth of
1 foot 6 inches. A splay returns along the
upper edge bordering a much worn inscription
in Gothic lettering which is now illegible.
In the panel is carved in relief a cross shaft
terminating in a single step.
(d) The upper portion of a recumbent grave-
slab 6 inches thick and 2 feet broad. A splay
returns along the edge. In the panel there is
a helmeted head reclining on a cushion tasselled
at the corners, beneath an elaborate canopy.
An inscription in Gothic lettering has returned
round the panel, but is now too decayed to be
read without conjecture.
(e) On a lintel 3 feet long and 8 inches broad
is incised in Roman lettering the text " Pasce
Oves Meas." (Feed My Sheep).
ii. S.E. 23 June 1919.
114. Matrix Stone, Abbey Farm.-A matrix
stone of blue slate, 3 feet 10 1/2 inches broad by
6 feet 10 inches long forms part of the paving
in front of the barn door at the Abbey Farm.
It is so destroyed that no details can be traced.
ii. S.E. 23 June 1919.
73
115. Dovecot, Abbey Farm.-The dovecot
stands on an eminence 50 yards south-east of
the farm buildings. It is a three-tiered struc-
ture, oblong on plan, and measures 16 feet
2 inches from north to south by 32 feet 6 inches
from east to west. There are two chambers,
each with an entrance in the south wall. The
rybat on the north-east corner bears an
incised drawing, apparently of buildings. The
dovecot dates from the 17th century.
ii. S.E. 23 June 1919.
116. Cross.-Within the grounds of North
Berwick Lodge beside the entrance is a grave-
slab 4 inches in thickness 1 foot 2 1/2 inches above
ground and 1 foot 1 inch broad. On this is
inscribed a cross with equal limbs.
ii. S.E. 23 July 1913.
117. Bell.-In the bell chamber of new St.
Andrew's Church is a bell measuring 2 1/4 feet
from skirt to crown with a diameter of 1 foot
5 inches at crown and 2 feet 9 inches at skirt.
Below an anthemion cresting is the inscription
in Roman capitals : " Jacobus Monteith me
fecit Edinb--ugh pro Templo de North Berick
anno domini 1642 spero meliora." Below the
inscription are two thistles alternating with
two shields each surmounted by a crown, and
bearing a hammer.
ii. N.E. 23 July 1913.
118. Tower, Rockville Farm.-In the farm
steading is a cylindrical tower some 17 feet
in external diameter at base by 28 feet in
height, which is built in two tiers and terminates
in a cone-shaped slated roof rising within a
projecting and crenellated parapet and sur-
mounted by a weather vane. At ground level
and also on the tier above is a doorway with
semicircular head. The tower appears to be
that of an 18th century windmill but is now
devoted to other purposes.
v. N.E. 8 July 1913.
119. Burials.-Below the 50 feet contour
in the area between Carlekemp plantation and
the burn east of Link House three cists con-
taining remains and urns have been unearthed.
The first discovered is recorded in the Proc. Soc.
Ant. Scot. vol. xxxiv., p. 122. Twenty other |
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OLDHAMSTOCKS.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [OLDHAMSTOCKS.
cist burials were discovered 340 yards south of
high water mark, while skeletal remains were
found at the burn side just below the 25 feet
contour.
ii. S.E. (unnoted). 8 August 1923.
120. Hut Circles and Enclosures, Craigleith.-
On the isle of Craigleith which lies 3/4 of a mile
north of North Berwick a number of hut
circles and enclosures 12 to 18 feet in diameter
can be traced. They lie on the 75 feet contour
line towards the south-western part of the
islet and are probably the remains of shielings.
ii. N.E. (unnoted). 8 August 1923.
SITES.
121. Castle Hill, North Berwick (site?).-On
the East Links, North Berwick, is Castle Hill,
a natural mound about 40 feet in height. The
summit is roughly pearshaped and measures
in diameter 36 by 30 yards. To the south is a
bank to which the mound is attached by a
narrow neck. There is no trace of a ditch at
base or across the neck. There are mounds
and traces of stonework on the summit pro-
bably relics of an early stone castle.
ii. S.E. 2 August 1922.
The O.S. map indicates the following site:-
122. Chapel, Tantallon Castle. iii. S.W.
OLDHAMSTOCKS.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
123. Parish Church, Oldhamstocks.-The
parish church of Oldhamstocks lies within its
churchyard at the western end of the village.
It is a comparatively modern building of scant
merit architecturally, built for the most part on
the foundations of an early church, of which
only a portion of the east gable and certain
courses of masonry at the ground level remain.
Still there is evidence that the earlier church
was oblong on plan and had a square tower,
somewhat broader than its modern successor,
projecting from the centre of the west gable.
Across the east gable of the present building
there returns a boldly splayed c. 14th century
double base course, 2 feet 6 inches high with a
total projection of 11 1/2 inches, which apparently
74
returned along the other walls of the church.
On the south-west angle of the building at a
height of 12 feet from the ground is set a
16th century inclining sundial, which is canted
from the south wall and has, with its projecting
gnomon, been wrought from a single stone. The
top is hollowed to form one dial ; a portion
of the halfits is cut back at an angle to form
two other dials, one to the east the other to
the west, while a fourth dial, below the hollow
dial on top, is moulded like a Gothic rib and
serves also as a gnomon. The treatment thus
resembles that of the terminal sundial set on
a buttress at the south-
west angle of Cockburnspath
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 111.-Oldham-
stocks Church (No.
123).
Parish Church.*
A vaulted building (fig.
111), measuring 14 feet 9
inches from north to south
and 17 feet 2 inches from
east to west within walls
3 feet thick, projects east-
ward from the east gable.
It is entered through a lintelled doorway in the
south wall, is lit by a late Gothic three-light
window in the east wall and is ceiled with a
semicircular barrel-vault covered exteriorly
with stone slabs. The head of the east window
is filled with tracery of a peculiarly rude and
debased description ; the mullions and jambs
are grooved for glass.
Exteriorly the window is flanked on either
side by a heraldic panel. On the northern,
under mantling and a scroll bearing the motto
" Keep Traist " (?), is a shield charged per
pale : dexter on a chevron a rose between two
lions combatant, in base a buckle in form of a
heart (Hepburn of Blackcastle) ; sinister three
pelicans vulned and on a chief three stars
(or mullets) (? Paterson). A John Paterson
was parson of Oldhamstocks in 1637.1 On the
southern panel is a shield parted as to the
lower third of the field, the upper portion con-
taining the initials T H (Thomas Hepburn,
parson of Oldhamstocks) and his arms as
above. On the lower portion of the shield
are the initials M S (Margaret Sinclair, his wife),
an engrailed cross (for Sinclair) and the date
1581.
* Inventory of Monts. in Berwickshire p. 23 ;
cf. Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vol. xxiv., pp. 181-3 ;
cf. also p. 173. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 112.-Priest's Door.
FIG. 113.-Crossing looking east.
FIG. 114.-From North East.
DUNGLASS COLLEGIATE CHURCH (No. 124).
To face p. 75 |
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OLDHAMSTOCKS.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [OLDHAMSTOCKS.
The terminal in form of a pine-apple sur-
mounting the apex of the gable appears to be
of 17th century workmanship and is possibly
coeval with the entrance.
There can be no doubt that this eastern
building was erected as a burial aisle in post-
Reformation time-possibly in 1581-and not
as a chapel or chancel.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The original church of
" Aldhampstocks " was dedicated to St. Mich-
ael.2 " Adulf priest of Aldehamstoc " was one
of the witnesses to a document of 1127.3
Thomas de Hunsingoure was " parson of the
church of Aldhamstoke " in 1296, when he
appears upon Ragman Roll.4 Patrick Sinclair
was " rector of Aldhampstocks " in 1450.5
The Thomas Hepburn referred to above was
attached to Queen Mary's court and was
forfeited for treason in having aided in her
escape from Lochleven Castle in 1568 and the
subsequent proceedings.6
1 Milne Home MSS. p. 193 ; 2 Home MSS
in Hist. MSS. xii., App. viii., p. 87 ; 3 Early
Scottish Charters, p. 60 ; 4 Cal. of Docs. ii.,
p. 212 ; 5 Home MSS. No. 124 ; 6 Acta Parl.
(19 Aug. 1568) vol. iv., pp. 49, 52.
xii. S.E. 14 June 1913.
124. Collegiate Church, Dunglass.-This
building (fig. 114), which was dedicated in
the name of B.V. Mary, stands on a grassy
plateau adjoining the mansion of Dunglass,
rather less than a mile west-north-west of
Cockburnspath village. The fabric is still
entire, notwithstanding the usage the building
received in the 18th century, at which time it
was degraded to the purpose of a stable and
agricultural store. It is now in the custody of
H.M. Office of Works.
The church is cruciform and rectangular on
plan (fig. 115), with a square tower surmounting
the crossing, while on the north there is a
sacristy opening into the choir by an
archway. The nave is wider than the choir,
and the western piers of the crossing are
attached to the lateral walls in a curiously
unstructural fashion. During the operations
conducted by H.M. Office of Works, it was
found that the north wall of the nave ran across
the space now occupied by the transept and ter-
75
minated at the division between nave and choir.
In other words, the building, as originally de-
signed, was two chambered comprising nave
and choir, but, before the building was very
far advanced, it was decided to add transepts
and a central tower. The detail throughout
the building is of the same period-the 15th
century-and the addition must have been
made before the vaulted roofs of the nave and
choir were laid.
The walls are built of ashlar of a yellow tinge,
here and there inclining to a warmer note.
The roofs of nave, transepts and choir are
overlaid with stone slabs, while the tower,
now roofless, would probably be covered with
a dumpy pyramidal wooden and slated spire.
A splayed basement course returns around the
whole building. The usual cavetto cornice at
eaves' level is enriched with paterae on the
portion lying between the north transept and
the sacristy. Buttresses, rising in two stages
from the basement course and terminating in
set-offs at eaves' level, are disposed at either
side of the gables and also on the lateral walls
of the nave. Those on the east gable bear on
the set-offs emblems of the Passion and other
symbolic carvings, which now are greatly
weathered.
There are three doorways, one a priests'
door (fig. 112), entering the choir from the
south, and one in each of the lateral walls of the
nave at its western end. These have semi-
circular heads with arch-mouldings consisting
of a filleted edge-roll with flanking hollows,
which are continued down the jambs, and ter-
minate in splayed stops. The projecting hood-
moulds terminate in stops shield-shaped and
carved with foliaceous work. Above the choir
door is a canopied niche surmounting a helmet
and mantling over a canted shield; the arms are
illegible. In addition to these, lintelled door-
ways have subsequently been formed in the
east wall of the south transept and the west
wall of the sacristy, but the latter door is now
built up.
In each gable of the divisions of the church
there is a pointed window, which has had an
infilling of tracery. The jambs are wrought
with a series of splays with small inner mould-
ings curvilinear in section. In addition to the
gable windows the nave is lit by a pointed
window in each of the lateral walls immediately |
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[Illustration inserted]
FIG. 115.-Dunglass Collegiate Church (No. 124).
76 |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 116.-Sedilia.
FIG. 117.-Choir.
DUNGLASS COLLEGIATE CHURCH (No. 124).
To face p. 77. |
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OLDHAMSTOCKS.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [OLDHAMSTOCKS.
west of the transepts, and the choir by a window
between the sacristy and transept and by two
windows in the south wall. These choir win-
dows have segmental heads, and the traceried
infilling is complete but has been restored in
at least one instance. The skews of the gables
have a cavetto moulding on the impending
surface and terminate at the apex in seats for
crosses and at the eaves in skewputs carved
with shields or cherubs heads, which bore
crudely crocketted pinnacles, now fragmentary.
The tower has on each face a lancet window
with trefoiled head. The little skews at
the eastern end (fig. 117), which received the
old nave roof, terminate in carved skewputs,
corbelled out over the angles of the corner
below ; the corbels are carved with foliaceous
work. The western skews have the appearance
of being inserted for symmetry. The transepts
have a set-off beneath the sills of the windows.
The nave interiorly is 39 feet long and 20 feet
wide and measures from the ground to the
apex of the vault 29 feet. Beneath the spring-
ing of the high pointed barrel-vaults, which
ceil the nave and choir, three tiers of beam
rests may be noticed. The upper tier-or
perhaps tiers-possibly served for the beams
supporting the scaffold and centering when the
building was constructed. The lowest tier
appears to have been formed to support an
intermediate floor, when the building served as
a stable. A doorway high up in the wall above
the western arch of the crossing was reached
by a ladder and gave access to the lower of
the apartments in the tower. The arches of
the crossing (fig. 113), save the eastern, which is
probably the original chancel arch, are pointed
in form with splayed archivolts. The inner
members of the east and west arches appear to
have been renewed. The piers are of a similar
section and have splayed bases and moulded
capitals. The piers of the eastern arch are
similar to the others and have bases of the
same form but at a slightly higher level,
suggesting the elevation of the choir. The
eastern capitals are foliaceous, and the arch
is composed of curvilinear mouldings. Immed-
iately above the abaci, the soffit is morticed to
receive the rood beam. The piers of the other
arches are also morticed but in a clumsy
fashion, as though these notches were formed
77
subsequently for doors during the period of
farm use.
The choir is 33 1/4 feet long and 17 3/4 feet wide
with a height of 24 1/2 feet from the ground to
the apex of the vault. From the third course
above the springing the vault seems to have
been renewed. The east window is lamentably
mutilated and enlarged to permit of the
entrance of vehicles. On the south side, at a
height of 7 1/2 feet from the ground, is a massive
corbel with a shield on the face, evidently the
survivor of two which flanked the high altar
beneath the central window and served to bear
the effigies of saints. On the south wall,
beneath the sill of the eastern window, can be
seen a small portion of the circular basin of
the piscina, which has evidently been borne on
a projecting shaft, a feature not usual in
[marginal note]
Marycastle
Scottish work. West of the same window are
fine triple sedilia (fig 116) with ogival heads
crocketted and infilled with cusping. The
jambs, which are moulded and are received on
the seat without bases, have foliaceous capitals
surmounted by crocketted pinnacles, which
also are placed between each head. The central
head is borne on moulded corbels, which are
carved on the soffits with representations of
angles, winged and long haired, playing in-
struments resembling a harp and lute. A
square recess in the north wall near the eastern
angle may be a sacrament house. West of it
is the arched opening to the sacristy, and oblong
chamber 13 1/2 feet by 15 feet ceiled with a
pointed barrel-vault at a height of some 13
feet above the ground. Mortices in the intrados
of the archway and ingoing of the piers seem
to indicate that the opening was filled with a
" hers " or grille. Beneath the north window
there is an arched tomb recess with a segmental
head. The jamb moulds, also continued round
the head, are filleted rolls with flanking hollows.
On each ingoing is a corbel carved with a
15th century female head, and on either side of
the recess is a corbel, the western representing
an angle playing a lute, the other very much
defaced.
The transepts are oblong, measuring 23 feet
by 13 1/2 feet, and the apex of their vaulted
ceilings is 22 1/4 feet above ground. Each
gable has an arched tomb-recess beneath the
windows. That in the north transept displays
beneath a helmet and mantling a canted shield |
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OLDHAMSTOCKS.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [OLDHAMSTOCKS.
bearing the arms of Sir Thomas Home, grand-
father of the founder (see below), impaled with
those of his wife Nicola Pepdie, heiress of the
barony of Dunglass,1 dexter a lion rampant
(Home) ; sinister three papingoes (Pepdie).
The south transept is the burial place of the
Halls of Dunglass.
The tower contains three storeys beneath the
wall head, and a garret would occupy the
space within the spire. The floor beams were
borne on projecting corbels. The only means
of access between the floors seems to have been
a ladder.
INCISED CROSSES.-In the choir on either
side of the archway between the sacristy, and
below the level of the apex, is a cross patté
within a double circle measuring some 12 inches
in exterior diameter; a third cross is found on
the south wall at the head of the west window,
while the east wall of the sacristy bears three
similar crosses at eye level and has had three
others on the west wall ; the formation of a
later doorway at the north-west corner caused
the removal of the northern of these.
TOMBSTONES.-Within the north transept is
a number of 17th century tombstones, which
appear to have formed the pavement of this
division. They are in a dilapidated condition.
CONDITION OF STRUCTURE.-Notwithstand-
ing the varied uses to which the building has
been put, the fabric appears to be structurally
sound.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-A " chapel of the Virgin
Mary of Dunglas and the presbyters (priests)
there " existed before 1423, in which year
" Alexander Hume, lord of that Ilk " granted
certain properties to the institution.2 This
charter was confirmed by James II. in 1450,
when the chapel is described as " now lately
founded as a Collegiate Church." The foun-
dation charter of the Collegiate Church, how-
ever, is dated 1403 (millesimo quadringentesimo
tertio), but as the founder Sir Alexander Hume
of that ilk, enumerates, among those to be
commemorated, his father Alexander, whom he
succeeded in 1424, and his grandfather Thomas,
as well as two Jameses, Kings of Scotland,
there must be an error in the date.3 Possibly
[marginal note]
/en/
the scribe has been led by the quadring/tesimo
to slip the nearly similar quadragesimo, so
that the date may have been 1443, which
might be described as " now lately " in the
78
charter of 1450. Or 1403 may be the date of
an original, probably private, chapel, such as
that of Herdmanston (No. 162). The foun-
dation charter establishes " in the chapel of
the blessed Mary of Dunglas " three chaplain-
ries, each having a priest, of whom one was to
be superior with the title of " provost." There
were besides four boys for singing in choir and
serving in church. Manses were allotted to the
priests in the vill of Dunglas, and each was to
have a garden, in which fruit trees must be
planted. The habit of the priests at the daily
service was to be " at least " a surplice-the
long mediæval form-and almuce or cape-hood
which was to be lined with sheepskin. There
was also an allowance for bread and wine at
the daily mass, for service-books, ornaments
and lights. The stipend of the provost came
from lands and rents in Kello, Berwickshire,
those of his two colleagues from " Balwsly "
(Balhousie) and " Gordounshal " in Fife-the
amount in each case twelve marks, while the
same amount was allotted to the four boys
from " Hutoun, Hirssale, Colbrandspeth (Cock-
burnspath) and Pinkertoun " in Berwickshire.
The patronage of the livings was reserved to
the patron and his heirs. A papal bull from
Nicholas V, dated 2 January 1451, approved
the foundation but, in consideration of the
fact that the endowment was insufficient, while
the rectory of the parish church of Dunglas
was very wealthy, appropriated the use of
the greater and lesser teinds to the Collegiate
Church.4 Meantime, too, Sir Alexander Home
had added some other properties to the foun-
dation (5 Aug. 1450) and Patrick Hepburn of
Hailes had given a revenue from Oldhamstocks
(7 August 1450) ; while William Earl of Douglas
and Avondale conferred some lands with the
parish church of Hutton and the hospital (1451),
James II. in 1452 gave to the " College of
Dundas " the lands of Trefontanis (Strafon-
tane), Pope Pius II. the vicarage of Edrom, and
in 1460 came a gift of the lands of Upsettlington
-all these latter being in Berwickshire.5 The
collegiate church also possessed as a prebend the
lands of "Reidspittell" in the constabulary of
Haddington (Spittal near Redhouse No. 7).6
The number of prebends had increased, since
in 1465 we have reference to a sub-prior,7 and
there are on record prebendaries of Strafontane
(held by the provost in 1589), Upsettleington, |
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OLDHAMSTOCKS.] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [OLDHAMSTOCKS.
Kello, Chirnside, Oldhamstocks, Dewingham,
and Reidspittal.8 Pope Nicholas V. in 1454
granted a seven years and seven quarters re-
laxation of penances to those who yearly
visited the " colledge Kirk of Dunglass " on
the feast of Assumption, and a similar in-
dulgence was granted by Pope Pius II. in 1459.9
On August 16, 1544, an English raiding party
from Berwick spoiled and burned the vill of
Dunglass, on which occasion " the Scots shot
fourth of the Tower (i.e., of Dunglass, No. 128)
and College with gunnes and slew an English-
man and hurt too (two)."10
1 Home MSS., pp. 77, 124 ; 2 Ibid, No. 122 ;
3 Home MSS. No. 123 ; 4 Ibid. No. 128 ;
5 Ibid. Nos. 124, 125, 126, 127, 318, 278 ;
6 Laing Charters No. 1866 ; 7 Milne Home
MSS. No. 378 ; 8 Ibid. Nos. 115, 120 ; Home
MSS. No. 129 ; 9 Home MSS. No. 318 ;
10 Raine's North Durham p. xvii.
xiii. S.W. 19 August 1915.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
125. The " French (?) Camp," Dunglass.-
Te earthworks known as the "French Camp"
near Dunglass House, Oldhamstocks consist of
ramparts and deep ditches enclosing a tri-
angular area (fig. 118) on the edge of the plateau
overlooking Dunglass. Towards the south side
is a high rectangular mound with a summer
house dated 1718 at one end and an excavated
bowling green to the west. The ditches are
deepest on the side next the steep slope and
slight on the opposite side where they were
most necessary if required for defence. The
place is much cut up with modern walks.
The so-called " French Camp " was really
an English Fort constructed and used during
the occupation of Haddington in 1548-9.1
By the Treaty of Boulogne (1550) it was to
be handed over to the Scots and by them
destroyed.2
1 Introd. p. xxx. Illustrations of the Reign
of Queen Mary pp. 47, 52 ; 2 Foedera xv.,
p. 215, where it is called " Douglas."
xii. S.E. 27 June 1913.
126. Fort, Castle Dykes, Bilsdean Burn.-On
the south bank of the ravine at the mouth of
the Bilsdean Burn is the entrenchment known
79
as Castle Dykes, a long triangular area meas-
uring about 200 yards from east to west and
about 85 yards across the eastern end. It is
adequately defended on the north by the
ravine, through which the burn flows, and on
the east by the precipitous slope which rises
about 100 feet from the high water mark, but
on the south, where the land is level, it has been
defended by a massive rampart of earth running
generally east and west, the western extremity
resting on the steep bank of the burn about 250
yards west of its mouth, and the eastern ex-
tremity terminating about 20 feet from the
edge of the cliff some 100 yards south of the
mouth of the burn. The central portion of
the rampart, for a distance
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 118.-Earthwork
Dunglass (No. 125).
of about 110 yards across a
slight hollow, has been re-
moved to permit of agricult-
ural operations, but there
remains a length of some
50 yards at the western end
with a breadth at base of
36 feet and a height of 7 feet,
while at the eastern end,
which has a slight curve to
the north, there is a length
of some 86 yards which shows a basal
breadth of 30 feet and a height of 12 feet.
In the eastern portion of the fort, foundations
of stone structures are reported to have been
encountered in ploughing.
xiii. N.W. 27 June 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
127. Sundial.-Some 70 yards east of the
church is a dial possibly dating from the 17th
century (fig. 84). From a moulded plinth,
square on plan, rises a pierced pedestal with
two pilasters on each face. These have moulded
bases, neckings and capitals; above the latter
a heavily moulded cornice or shelf swells out
to a great projection and is surmounted by a
small cubical dial.
xiii. S.W. 19 August 1915.
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate the following sites:-
128. Dunglass Castle, Dunglass. xiii. S.W.
129. Black Castle, Oldhamstocks. xii. S.E. |
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ORMISTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [ORMISTON.
ORMISTON.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
130.-St. Giles Church, Ormiston.-The old
parish church of Ormiston is represented only
by a portion of its eastern end standing within
the policies of Ormiston Hall 300 yards south of
the mansion, which lies 1 mile south of Ormiston
village. This fragment is rectangular on plan,
with its major axis east and west, and is at
present enclosed on the west by a modern
cross wall forming a burial enclosure. Into
this wall are built fragments of early work,
which exhibit the chevron and dog-tooth
ornaments, and a portion of a grave-slab
showing the hilt and pommel of a sword.
The enclosure is roofless, and the walls appear
to have been reduced to their present height
of 9 feet 6 inches. The east gable, which is
skewed, is entire and contains an arch-headed
window, c. 13th century, with a splay wrought
on its outer jamb. The scoinson arch is
corbelled out on either side. The other windows
-two in the south wall which are now built
up and one in the north wall-are square-
headed. In the north wall is an arched
recess, 4 feet deep and 6 feet 3 inches
long, which was evidently intended to house an
effigy. The mouldings of the archivolt, which
are of 16th century type, spring from imposts
resting on shafts, now buried, and abut at the
crown of the arch on a panelled keystone
bearing a shield.
Above the recess is a brass (fig. 119), 3 feet
3 inches broad and 2 feet high set within a
stone moulding and inscribed :
OMNIA . QVÆ . LONGA . INDVLGET . MORT-
ALIBVS . ÆTAS / HÆC . TIBI . ALEXANDER .
PRIMA . IVVENTA . DEDIT / CVM . GENERE .
ET . FORMA . GENEROSO . SANGVINE . DIGNA /
INGENIVM . VELOX . INGENVVMQUE .
ANIMVM / EXCOLVIT . VIRTVS . ANIMVM . IN-
GENIVMQUE . CAMENÆ / SVCCESSV . STVDIO .
CONSILIOQVE . PARI . / HIS . DVCIBVS . PRI-
MVM . PERAGRATA . BRITANNIA . DEINDE /
GALLIA . AD . ARMIFEROS . QVA . PATET .
HELVETIOS / DOCTVS . IBI . LINGVAS .
ROMA . SION . ET . ATHENÆ / QVAS . CVM .
GERMANO . GALLIA . DOCTA . SONAT / TE
LICET . IMPRIMA . RAPVERVNT . FATA .
IVVENTA / NON . IMMATVRO . FVNERE .
RAPTVS . OBIS / OMNIBVS . OFFICIIS .
80
VITÆ . QVI . FVNCTVS . OBIVIT / NON . FAS .
HVNC . VITÆ . EST . DE . BREVITATE . QVERI.
HIC . CONDITVR . MR . ALEXANDER . COK-
BVRN / PRIMOGENIT . IOANNIS . DOMINI .
ORMISTON / ET . ALISONÆ . SANDILANDS .
EX . PRECLARA / FAMILIA . CALDER . QVI .
NATVS . 13 . INVARII . 1535 / POST . IN-
SIGNEM . LINGVARVM . PROFESSIONEM /
OBIT . ANNO . ÆTATIS . SUÆ . 28 . CALEN .
SEPTE.
" All that a long life confers on mortals,
these to thee, Alexander, thy first youth gave
with noble birth and a form becoming to
noble blood, quick intelligence and ingenuous
mind. Virtue developed thy mind and the
Muses thy intelligence with equal success,
diligence and wisdom. With these as guides
first Britain was traversed then France to
where it faces the warlike Swiss. There thou
wast instructed in the languages of Rome,
Zion, and Athens, which learned France with
the German repeats. Though the fates re-
moved thee in early youth, yet thou did'st
not die as one snatched away by untimely
death who passed when he had discharged
all the duties of life. It is not proper to mourn
for him because of the shortness of his life.
Here lies Mr. Alexander Cockburn, eldest
son of John lord of Ormiston and Alison Sandi-
lands of the illustrious family of Calder, who
was born 13 January 1535 (O.S.=1536).
After a distinguished profession of languages he
died on the 28th year of his age on September 1."
Alexander Cockburn was a pupil of John
Knox (cf. Art. No. 65). The epitaph was
written by George Buchanan and appears, with
some verbal variations from the above, in his
collected works.
This brass has features in common with the
fine brass to the Regent Murray in St. Giles
Cathedral, Edinburgh.
At the dexter base is a shield bearing the
arms of Alexander Cockburn of Ormiston-a
fess checky between three cocks-flanked by
the initials A C ; above is a motto in obscure
lettering : the motto of this family was In
Dubiis Constans (Nisbet). At the sinister base
another shield, beneath a label bearing the
motto AB. STEN . AND . SUFFER, with the arms
of Sandilands of Calder-Quarterly 1st and 4th
a bend ; 2nd and 3rd a heart, on a chief three |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 119.-Brass, St. Giles' Church Ormiston (No. 130).
To face p. 80. |
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ORMISTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [ORMISTON.
mullets ; flanked by the initials A.S. for Alison
Sandilands, mother of Alexander Cockburn.
The enclosure measures 16 feet 2 inches from
east to west and 12 feet 9 inches from north to
south within walls which vary in thickness
from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 3 inches ; the
north wall extends 3 feet and the south wall
14 feet west of the cross wall. In the south
wall at its intersection by the cross wall is a
doorway formed by a pointed arch 6 1/2 feet
wide and 10 feet 7 inches high. The arch is in
two orders, the outer plane, the inner splayed.
The details of the building indicate its erection
in the 13th century.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Early in the 13th cen-
tury the church of St. Giles at Ormiston
(Sancti Egidii de Ormystoun) was conferred by
the bishop of St. Andrews on the church and
hospital at Soutra.1 A charter to the Soutra
house by " Radulph lord of Cranystoun " bears
among its witnesses the name of " Giles (Egid-
ius) lord of Ormystoun."2 With all other
churches belonging to Soutra it was in 1462
transferred to Trinity College, Edinburgh,
founded by Mary of Gueldres,3 and the one
prebendary there was known as " of Ormiston,"
though the rectorial revenues were divided
between him and three other prebendaries.
The revenues of Trinity College were in 1612
conferred by James VI. upon the city of
Edinburgh.4
1 Reg. Cart. Domus de Soltre No. 18 ;
2 Ib. No. 50. Cf. the case of Alexander Martin
and St. Martin's, Haddington, Art. No. 69 ;
3 Reg. Eccl. S.T. de Edinb. No. 2 ; 4 R.M.S.
s.a. No. 736.
xiv. N.W. 17 June 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
131. 17th Century Structure, Ormiston Hall.-
Immediately east of Ormiston Church is a
group of two storeyed buildings tenanted by
the estate employees. The north-eastern of
the structures (fig. 120) dates from the 17th cen-
tury and is L-shaped on plan with the re-
entering angle facing south. The larger wing
on the north-east is 47 1/4 feet long by 25 3/4 feet
wide exteriorly and contains on the ground floor
two inter-communicating vaulted cellars. The
shorter wing projects 20 feet from the lateral
wall and is 27 feet wide. It contains an ir-
81
regularly shaped apartment, so formed by the
intrusion of the staircase. In the south-east
wall of this wing is the entrance, which has a
round head moulded, as are the jambs, with a
quirked edge-roll. Adjoining the lesser wing
and communicating with it is another structure,
which has a vaulted cellar on the ground floor.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Early in the 17th cen-
tury the barony of Ormiston was possessed by
Sir John Cockburn, Lord Justice-Clerk and a
judge of Session, whose son served heir of line
in 1629 (Inq. Spec. Hadd. No. 126). On the
Cockburns of Ormiston see Introd. p. xx.
xiv. N.W. (unnoted). 17 June 1913.
132. House o' Muir.-One and a half miles
south of Ormiston village, at the junction of
three bye-roads,
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 120.-Ormiston (No. 131).
is a dwelling of
one storey dating
from the 17th cen-
tury. It is oblong
on plan and meas-
ures 17 feet 8
inches by 48 feet
over walls 2 1/2 feet
thick. The walls
are roughcast, the
roof is pantiled. The main features of
interest are the sundial on one of the gable
skews and the large ingle projecting from one
of the lateral walls, which is still in use and
contains a modern range. A window in the
ingle breast is built up, a second at one side
still remains.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-"Murhouse " was one
of the properties conferred by Alexander
Lindsay of Ormiston upon his daughter and
heir when she married John Cockburn (cf.
Introd. p. xx). It was still part of the barony
of Ormiston in the early 16th century (R.M.S.
(1509) No. 3278).
xiv. N.W. 17 June 1913.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTION.
133. Hill Fort, Dodridge Law.-Round the
summit of Dodridge Law, a small hill rising
barely 700 feet above sea level, are very faint
traces of fortification, the site being cultivated
ground. To the south of the summit a mound
broadens out to a width of 40 feet and rises
6 |
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PENCAITLAND.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PENCAITLAND.
2 feet in height at the centre. On the north-
western and south-eastern sides are very scanty
indications of ramparts or scarps, the segment
to the south-east having probably formed part
of an outer defence. The enceinte seems to
have been circular with a diameter of about
220 feet, while a distance of 80 feet separates the
inner wall from the outer scarp.
This seems to be the fort referred to in the
Statistical Account vol. vi. p. 162 note as follows:
" The vestiges of a Roman Castellum Stativum
are still to be seen, upon the estate of White-
burgh, in the south-west part of the parish.
It was of a circular form, and consisted of three
walls, at the distance of 15 feet from each other,
built with very large stones, and with cement
only at the bottom. It occupied more than an
acre of ground. No information can be got
about the height of the walls ; but the pro-
prietor of the lands remembers that the parts
of them which he has seen, were 16 feet thick.
The whole work has been carried off at different
times for building the present house and
offices at Whiteburgh, and some farm houses
upon the estate.-Near it were several tumuli,
in which were urns full of bones or ashes.
In the camp itself, were found a medal of
Trajan, a fibula, a patera, and a horn of a
moose deer."
xiv. S.W. 8 July 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
134. Cross, Ormiston Village.-In the centre
of the main street of Ormiston village is a
fine freestanding 15th century cross, which is
set on three modern steps within a railed
enclosure. The old base is octagonal on plan,
but the shaft, a monolith, is square in section,
with arrises chamfered and stopped beneath a
moulded necking. On the western face of the
shaft is a shield in relief. Above the necking
is an equal limbed cross-head with roll-and-
hollow mouldings.
xiv. N.W. (unnoted). 4 October 1915.
PENCAITLAND.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
135. Parish Church, Pencaitland.-The parish
church (fig. 122) stands within the churchyard
between Easter and Wester Pencaitland. It
82
contains beneath one roof both chancel and
nave, the latter being galleried at the west end.
From the centre of the west gable there projects
an oblong tower, in which an entrance to the
church has been formed at ground level, and on
the higher level an entrance to the gallery,
reached from a forestair on the north. The
tower communicates directly with the church
by a high obtusely pointed archway somewhat
obscured by the gallery. On the north a trans-
ept projects from the nave and an aisle of two
bays from the chancel (figs. 121 and 123).
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 123.-Parish Church, Pencaitland (No. 135).
Above the level of the nave roof the tower is
developed to an octagon on plan, and at this
stage is utilised as a combined belfry and
Dovecot. The southern face of the octagon is
pierced by a narrow lintelled aperture, the
other walls by lancet shaped openings with
obtusely pointed heads. These lights have
splayed jambs and are coeval with a similar
window in the tower at a lower level and two
others in the west gable of the church, which
probably date from the 16th century. The
tower is built of irregularly coursed rubble up
to the octagonal stage, which is built of ashlar
and roofed with a slated octagonal spirelet
surmounted by a weathercock. Above the
lintelled entrance are the initials I O for John
Oswald (a former incumbent 1631-41)1 and the
date 1631.
The lower portion of the tower and the
north, east and west walls of the church are
clearly mediæval ; their proportions suggest
the much altered remains of a 12th century
church. The internal construction towards the
east end of the building indicates that there
was some structural distinction-probably a
chancel arch-between nave and chancel. As |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 121.-North Aisle.
FIG. 122.-Looking West.
PARISH CHURCH, PENCAITLAND (No. 135).
To face p. 82. |
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PENCAITLAND.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PENCAITLAND.
the south wall of the church inside is unbroken,
it may be inferred that it was built during a
restoration but on the original foundations,
as the outside basement course found on the
other portions returns here also. The buttresses
at the ends of this wall date from the 15th
century ; the intermediate buttresses are of
16th century type and apparently contemp-
oraneous with the pointed windows-four in
the south wall and one in the east gable. To
this period also may be ascribed the three
round-headed doorways. One of these, opening
into the chancel from the south, is now built
up ; the others, set at the western ends of the
north and south walls respectively have been
converted into windows.
The aisle projecting northwards from the
chancel dates from the end of the 13th century.
It is oblong on plan, one bay wide and two in
length. The opening to the chancel has been
much altered to gain the maximum of light
in post-Reformation times, when the aisle
became a laird's loft. It now consists of a wide
three-centred arch, which probably superseded
an arcade of two bays with an intermediate
pier. The flat arch springs from imposts in two
orders. On the eastern jamb are two nook
shafts separated by an intermediate plane ;
between the southern shaft and this plane is
a quirk. The shafts have neckings below rude
bell-shaped capitals dying into a simple rect-
angular abacus. The detail of this jamb
suggests 16th century work. In the north wall
are two large pointed windows, but both are
now built up; a 17th century doorway and œil-
de-bœuf are inserted in the infilling of the
western. The jamb sections of the windows
comprise two small rolls with undercut hollows
between and on either side of them. The hood-
moulds are small, of a common late 13th cen-
tury type, terminating in puny stops. In the
east wall is a large pointed window with
modern tracery and in the west wall a pointed
two-light window with eyes and a lozenge
shaped light with segmental sides in the head.
The jamb sections of these windows consist
of a series of splays with intervening checks.
The exterior of the north wall of the aisle
is divided into bays by three buttresses termin-
ating in gablets of 14th century type. These
buttresses have been reinforced in the 16th
century. Above the buttresses is an offset
83
course terminating at either end in a skewput
carved with grotesques. Above this has been
added a deep course under an eaves course,
on the soffit of which are carved a series of
small grotesques. The aisle is obviously de-
signed for a quadripartite stone vaulted roof.
The removal of the abutment provided by the
arcade between aisle and chancel would necess-
itate the removal of the stone roof.
The north transept was added in the 16th
or 17th century. There is a pointed window
in the north wall, which may be contempor-
aneous with the windows of the church. That
this portion is no part of the original structure
is clear, as the early basement course does not
return around it.
A 17th century Renaissance doorway (fig. 42)
in the west wall, now built up, has a fluted
pilaster on either side of the jamb, terminating
in a base and capital under a cornice and a
broken semicircular pediment. In the tym-
panum is a shield with strap-work backing;
over the pediment is a fish-shaped stone in-
scribed with the initials S I S for Sir John (?)
Sinclair. In the same wall is an ogival headed
window of the same period also built up. The
quoins at the angles of the transept are back
set.
WOODWORK.-The pulpit against the south
wall is of oak dating from the 17th century ; the
back and base are modern. On plan it is six-
sided with two tiers of rectangular panels ;
the halfits contain four panels, the sides and
front each contain two slightly broader panels.
The panels are stuck moulded, with raised
fields carved in relief with conventional designs.
The rails are of the same width throughout ;
the stiles are narrower at the sides than on
the halfits. The pulpit retains the iron bracket
for the baptismal basin.
A length of 17th century oak panelling is
inserted in front of the gallery and another
length encloses the north transept. The
panelled pew backs immediately behind this
latter panelling are apparently of the same
age.
BELL.-Within the belfry hangs a 17th cen-
tury bell 1 foot 9 inches diameter at mouth,
11 inches diameter at shoulder and 1 foot
5 inches in height from skirt to crown. The
bell is enriched with 13 annular rings in relief
arranged in series. Around the shoulder is |
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PENCAITLAND.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PENCAITLAND.
the inscription ' Pencaitland feare ye the Lord
1638 ' in raised lettering 3/4 inch long. The bell
is suspended by a single canon.
SUNDIALS. (a) Three-faced dial on south-
west buttress.
(b) Three-faced dial on apex of
east gable.
(c) On lintel on south face of
octagon of tower.
TOMBSTONES.-These call for no special
mention, but one may be instanced on account
of its exhibiting a late armorial bearing ; it
is built into the exterior of the south wall of
the church in front of and partly obscuring
another and later stone commemorating Tho.
Wedderburn. Within a moulded border is a
panel, the upper portion of which contains a
scrolled cartouche enriched with fleur-de-lys,
within which is a shield bearing a lion rampant
within a border engrailed (Renton) impaling
an oak tree eradicated (Watson) ; flanking the
shield are the initials G.R. and M.W. The
lower part of the panel is occupied by the
inscription.
VIRO PROBO GEORGIO RENTO / NO . ET .
IPSIUS . FAMILIÆ . P . / E . H . M QUI OBIIT
28 / MARTII AN 1640 ÆTATIS / SUÆ 76.
The two small 17th century structures which
stand at either gate are interesting. They
are understood to have been offering houses,
but for this purpose they are unusually large.
The masonry is of rubble and has been harled.
The roofs, which are of timber, have been tiled.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In the late 12th and
13th centuries the church belonged to the
convent of Kelso by grant of Edverard of
" Pencatheland " and his son Walter,2 Walter's
charter of c. 1180 being witnessed by Bernard,
chaplain of Pencaitland. But about 1343 we
have a grant of the church to Dryburgh by
Sir John Maxwell of Pencaitland.3 In 1606
the church was dissolved from the abbacy of
Dryburgh and its patronage transferred to the
Earl of Mar.4
1 Fasti. Eccl. Scotic. i. p. 384 (new edit.) ;
2 Liber etc. Calchou Nos. 13, 83, 84, 369 ;
3 Reg. Dryburgh p. 271 (cf. Introd. p. xxi) ;
4 Act. Parl. ii. p. 346.
xiv. N.E. 1 September 1913.
84
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
136. Winton House.-This is the choicest
example of Renaissance architecture in the
county and one of the important buildings
in that style in Scotland.
The site is on the high left bank of the
river Tyne, less than half a mile north-west of
Pencaitland, where stood an earlier building, a
long L-shaped structure of indeterminate ex-
tent raised by George, fourth Lord Seton, who
died in 1508. This was " burnt by the Eng-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 126.-Winton House (No. 136).
lish " and little of the building is now traceable.
In 1620 George, tenth Lord Seton and third
Earl of Winton, " founded and built the great
house from the foundation, with all the lairge
stone dykes about the precinct, park, orchard
and gardens thereof."1 In the 19th century
the structure was extended by the addition of
modern wings, which partially obscure the fine
Renaissance work (fig. 124).
What remains of the earliest masonry is of
freestone rubble, while the Renaissance and
modern additions are of ashlar. The main
portion (fig. 126) runs almost east and west
and measures 77 feet by 28 1/2 feet, while a
wing, which projects, in alinement with the
east wall, northwards for a length of 23 feet
has a breadth of 25 feet ; in the west re-
entering angle is a semi-octagonal tower
housing a wheel-staircase, and at the north-
west angle a square tower containing a second
and more spacious turnpike stair, which
ascends to the first floor and has bedrooms
above. These are reached from a circled |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 125.-Stair Tower, old Hamilton House (No. 158).
FIG. 124.-Winton House (No. 136).
To face p. 84. |
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PENCAITLAND.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PENCAITLAND.
turret stair contained in the east re-entering
angle. To the north the building is three
storeys in height, but on the south advantage
is taken of the falling site to obtain an addit-
ional storey beneath the main block ; this
basement is vaulted. The eastern tower is
carried one storey higher than its surroundings;
the western two storeys.
The external detail is very similar to that of
Heriot's Hospital, Edinburgh. In Winton
there are a similar employment of string-
courses and rich treatment of the voids. It is
known that William Wallace,2 a King's Master
Mason since 1617, was employed at Heriot's
before his death in 1631, and that he had been
ding work for the Earl of Winton is shown
by an entry in the Register of Confirmed Testa-
ments, 12th December 1632 : " Item : Thair
was awin to the said umquhill William Wallace
be George Earle of Wintoun, in acknowledg-
ment of his panes in his Lordship's works,
conforme to his Lordship's tiket, subscrivit
with his hand, the sowme of 500 merkis."
The pediments of the windows are of the
Jacobean strapwork variety. The ornate
gable crowsteps and the balustraded flat
surmounting the west stair tower are note-
worthy (fig. 124) ; but the outstanding feature
of Winton is its tall chimney stalks alternately
wrought in convolutions and in flutes, the latter
enriched with a Renaissance rendering of the
Gothic crocket. This manner of decorating
stalks, while familiar in the Jacobean archi-
tecture of England, is unknown elsewhere in
Scotland. East of the mansion the terrace is
bounded by a high revetment surmounted by
a balustrade similar to that on the west tower ;
from the terrace a flight of steps leads to the
lower ground. In the revetment wall two 17th
century pediments enriched with vine scroll and
other foliaceous carving are inserted. These
flank a panel bearing a shield charged with
the royal arms. The inscription on the label
below the shield IACOBVS - - S (?)- - BRIT - -
FRANCE - - ET HIBER shows it to have been of
the date of the building of the house, 1620.
Winton contains three inter-communicating
apartments on the first floor which are
elaborately decorated in a florid 17th century
manner. The largest of these, which occupies
the western portion of the main block, measures
44 1/4 feet by 22 feet and has a height of 13 1/2 feet.
85
The north wall contains a fine Renaissance fire-
place in freestone (see fig. 176) which bears the
Seton crescents and a star, the Seton dragon,
and beneath an earl's coronet the initials G S
for George Seton third Earl of Winton and A H
for Anne Hay. Surmounting the fireplace is
a band of arabesque plaster work very beauti-
fully executed, and above this is a plaster
frieze with heavily moulded enrichment, which
returns round the chamber beneath a flowing
slightly-membered plaster cornice. On the
frieze, and centering with the fireplace, is an
heraldic panel with bearings, supporters, crown
and banner as above described ; in this instance
the shield is girt by the Garter only and
the strapwork label below bears the
motto VNIONV VNIO (By union a unity). The
ceiling is very elaborately worked and is
broken up into panels by moulded stiles,
which are enriched on the soffits. The panels
also are enriched by the application of orna-
mental and heraldic devices. The central
panel has an ornate shield charged with the
arms of Seton bearing the augmentation
granted to Robert Earl of Winton in 1600-
(azure) a blazing star of nine (properly ten)
points within a double tressure flory-counter-
flory (or)-with supporters, dragon crest and
motto above and below (cf. Art. No. 191).
Other devices are, beneath a coronet a blazing
star of ten points, three crescents intertwined,
a garb surmounting a crescent and a re-
petition of the initials on the fireplace. The
adjoining chamber on the east, known as
King Charles' Room, has the Renaissance
fireplace of unusual design shown on fig. 175
and a handsomely decorated plaster frieze
and ceiling. The latter bears the initials
C.R. for Carolus Rex being Charles I, who,
on visiting Scotland in 1633, is said to have
been received at Winton House for a night
on his way to Edinburgh and for a week-end
on returning ;3 as well as devices similar to
those already described. The heavy pendants
formed at certain stile junctions are note-
worthy and add greatly to the rich effect.
The chamber in the wing also had an enriched
ceiling of somewhat similar detail. The
plaster work in these rooms is identical in
detail to that at Pinkie House, Musselburgh,
and Moray House, Edinburgh, and evidently
was executed from the same moulds. |
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PENCAITLAND.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PENCAITLAND.
Winton is inhabited and is in an excellent
state of preservation.
On the Seton Earls of Winton see Introd.
pp. xx-i.
1 History of the House of Seytoun (Maitland
Club) p. 74 ; 2 The King's Master Masons ;
3 House of Seytoun p. 75.
xiv. N.E. 22 May 1920.
137. Fountainhall.-A very complete ex-
ample of a small 17th century Scottish
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 127.-Fountainhall from the South-West (No. 137).
mansion is to be found in Fountainhall (fig.
127), which occupies a sheltered and retired
position rather more than a mile to the south-
west of Wester Pencaitland. It is still in-
habited and is in an unusual state of pre-
servation, for it retains internally much of
the original 17th century woodwork and rather
later furniture, while externally only such
work as was necessary for conservation has
been carried out since completion. The
building site close to the ground and com-
prises a long central block, with main axis
86
lying north-east and south-west, two storeys
and an attic in height ; at either end a wing
projects southwards, the eastern being the
longer, narrower and lower. The wing on
the west (fig. 128) is three storeys and an attic
in height and with the western 21 feet of the
central block comprises the earliest portion
(figs. 129 and 130) ; it may date from the last
years of the 16th century, while the east wing,
which is dated 1638, is the latest, but, as the
detail throughout is identical and of the type
current between 1625-1650, the building may
[illustration continued]
FIG. 127.-Fountainhall from the South-West (No. 137).
be described as though it were entirely of this
one period. The close resemblance in detail
between Fountainhall and the Hamilton house
at Preston (No. 158) suggests that they came
from the same hands. The greatest dimensions
of the building are 104 1/2 feet along the north
wall by 48 3/4 feet along the east wall.
The building is of light coloured freestone
rubble covered with harling except at the
dressings, which are exposed. The windows
have dressed and backset margins chamfered
at jambs and lintel. The dormer windows have |
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PENCAITLAND. -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PENCAITLAND.
moulded horizontal and raking cornices en-
closing triangular pediments, which are sur-
mounted by sadly decayed finials trefoiled or
crescented. One only of the pediments is
inscribed, that of the dormer on the east wing.
It bears the date 1638 above the initials in mono-
gram I. P. M. D. for John Pringle, son of
Robert and his wife, Margaret Dickson.1 The
date is repeated on the south-east skewput of
the same wing; beneath this date are the initials
R.P. for Robert Pringle. The north-east skew-
put bears the same initials. On the north-east
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 128.-Fountainhall, Entrance (No. 137).
skewput of the main building is a worn mono-
gram which may be read R.P.V.C. R and C
being certain, and so may stand for Robert
Pringle and Violet Cant, his wife. The north-
east angle of the east wing is chamfered off
below a corbelling, under which is a shield
inscribed 1638 IVLIE 21, probably the date at
which this part was constructed. In the south-
east re-entering angle there is a circled turret
(fig. 128) now curtailed in height, borne on the
usual moulded conoidal corbelling. The upper
portion of the south wall of the west wing over-
87
hangs on an exposed and moulded continuous
corbelling of two members, which returns at
the level of the upper member of the turret
corbelling. The lower member of the contin-
uous corbelling returns for but a short distance
along the west wall, as the lower portion of the
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 129.-Fountainhall (No. 137).
wall is angled. The south-west angle bears a
projecting sundial1 set about the level of the
attic floor.
The entrance doorway is at the re-entering
angle; it has, on jambs and lintel, a quirked
edge-roll of the three-quarter round section
common in early 17th
century work. The
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 130.-Fountainhall
(No. 137).
roof is of timber and
is slated.
Adjoining the
house on north-west
and east are exten-
sive walled gardens.
In the garden wall
south-east of the
house is an early
17th century gate-
way, with moulded
jambs and lintel (fig.
43). Above the moulded horizontal cornice
there is a quadrangular pediment, flanked
by pyramidal finials terminating in little
spheres and enriched on the front with |
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PENCAITLAND.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PENCAITLAND.
projecting ovals. The pediment has a panel
space, now empty, which has a moulded and
enriched border.
On the upper floor of the main house the
dining room, the adjoining bedroom and the
connecting passages are panelled in Memel pine;
the panelling is painted in the dining room, but
in the passage and bedroom is left in the
original dressed condition. many of the doors
retain the original iron furniture (fig. 131) and
the cornice in the bedroom, which is run in pine
instead of plaster, is noteworthy. In certain
of the rooms presses and cupboards of Memel
pine are boxed out, while two chambers retain
their original fire baskets.
The entrance opens on the foot of a geometric
staircase which ascends from ground to second-
floor level. This is an insertion replacing a
newel stair. Though
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 131.-Door Snecks,
Fountainhall (No. 137).
the stairfoot the
ground floor apart-
ments of the west
and central block
are entered ; the lat-
ter can also be enter-
ed directly through
a doorway in the
south wall, and has its own staircase housed
within a circled tower which projects from the
north wall. The east wing is entered from the
exterior, the upper floor being reached by a
forestair, which adds considerably to the charm
of the south aspect.
HERALDIC PANEL.-A late 17th century stone
panel is inserted in the attic wall of the western
wing just beneath the roofing. It has been
fractured and is incomplete. Within a moulded
border enriched with a cable ornament is a
shield charged with a griffin salient within a
bordure (Lauder) ; the shield is supported by
lions, and beneath is the initial L for Lauder.
This stone has no connection with Fountainhall,
and is said to have been brought from the
Bass to be inserted in the empty panel space
above the garden door.
JOUGS.-A pair of jougs with chain and staple,
which were formerly secured to the dovecot
(see below), are now attached to the exterior
of the south wall.
GATE PIERS.-A few yards west of the house
are two gate piers of late Renaissance character,
88
which may not be in situ. Each pier bears on
the east and west face an oval cast iron panel
displaying a classical figure subject. The panels
are stated to have been cast by the Carron
Iron Company after designs by the mid-18th
century artist Angelica Kauffman.
DOVECOT.-A roofless ruinous dovecot, con-
temporary with the house, stands 100 yards
to the south. It is of rubble and has been
harled ; the entrance, which is in the south
wall, has chamfered jambs and lintel. The plan
is an oblong, measuring 20 feet by 17 feet
10 inches, and the gables are stepped. A few
yards to the west of the dovecot and parallel
therewith an outwardly similar structure has
been erected c. 18th century, apparently for
symmetry. The tenant (1920) of Fountainhall
states that the entrance led originally between
these two structures.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The barony of Fountain-
hall was constituted in 1685 in favour of John
Lauder of Fountainhall, a merchant burgess
of Edinburgh, who was known also as of
Newington, and Sir John Lauder, advocate,
his son. The lands comprised Easter and
Wester Templehall to the south, Huntland to
the east and Dryburgh lands, and had prev-
iously belonged to a family of Pringle of
Woodhead or Southwood, the King having in
1636 granted to Robert Pringle, Writer to the
Signet, his wife, Violet Cant and John Pringle
his son and heir these lands including South-
wood alias Woodhead, after resignation by
George Cockburn of Ormiston. Robert Pringle
was the builder of the present house, then
known, therefore, as Woodhead, and was
succeeded in Woodhead by John Pringle and
another John before the whole property was
disposed of to Lauder and its name changed.
Sir John Lauder was in 1689 raised to the
bench as Lord Fountainhall, known for his
historical and legal collections. The Lauders
of Fountainhall were connected by rather
remote descent with the Lauders of the Bass,
and bore the white griffin of that family on
their registered arms.
General Register of Sasines, vol. liv, fol. 80 ;
Act. Parl. Scot. vol. viii., p. 568 ; R.M.S.
s.a. 1636 No. 482 ; Stodart's Scottish Arms ii.,
p. 174. |
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PENCAITLAND.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PENCAITLAND.
1 Illustrated and described in Proc. Soc.
Ant. Scot. xxiv. p. 165.
xiv. N.E. 9 April 1920.
138. Pencaitland House, Remains of-
Within the polices of Winton Castle, a hundred
yards north-north-east of Pencaitland Bridge,
are two symmetrical structures now inhabited
by employees on the Winton estate. These are
the wings of Pencaitland House, which was a
17th century structure, destroyed by fire in the
19th century. The wings were attached to the
main portion by a circled sweep of walling,
which in part remains. The contemporary
gateway opening on the high road opposite
the church contains a wrought iron gate
removed from Bloxholm Castle, England. On
the circled walling mentioned above is a small
lead casting representing a peacock in pride
above a cap of maintenance, the crest
of the Manners family.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-James Hamilton first of
Pencaitland had a charter of the lands on
July 3, 1696 (cf. Introd. p. xxiii). In 1712 he
became a judge with the title of Lord Pencait-
land. His great-grandson William Hamilton
Nisbet of Belhaven and Dirleton married Mary
daughter of Lord Robert Manners, brother of
the then Duke of Rutland. (Anderson's
Memoirs of the House of Hamilton, pp. 336-7).
xiv. N.E. 22 May 1920.
139. Woodhall.-On high ground half a mile
south-west of Pencaitland station is the
dwelling house of Woodhall,
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 132.-Woodhall
(No. 139).
which incorporated a portion
of a small tower c. 16th
century that was restored,
according to a tablet on
the building, in 1884. The
original portion (fig. 132) is
a two storied structure built
of yellow freestone rubble
originally covered with
roughcast. At the north-
east angle a circled turret is corbelled out.
The basement chamber is vaulted and measures
19 1/3 feet by 13 feet; the walls are 4 feet in
thickness. The windows throughout have
been enlarged.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Early in the 17th cen-
tury Woodhall was in possession of John
89
Sinclair of Herdmanston, but in 1644 confirm-
ation was given of a charter in which Sinclair
resigned the barony of Wester Pencaitland,
including Woodhall and its manor-place, in
favour of Robert Sinclair of Longformacus
(Berwickshire), and the place was still in the
ownership of that family at the close of the
century.
R.M.S. s.a. No. 1536 ; Inquis. Spec. Hadd.
Nos. 337, 383, Cf. Art. No. 163.
xiv. N.E. 22 May 1920.
MISCELLANEOUS.
140. Pencaitland Bridge.-This spans the
river Tyne 100 yards west of the parish church,
and is a bridge of three pointed arches, the
outer of which have been altered. The central
arch is drop-centred in form and has five ribs on
the soffit. On the south side of the structure
between the central and west arches is a
panel, on which is carved a shield charged with
an engrailed cross for Sinclair. Above the
cross is the date 151(0?). Over the shield
there are apparently initials, which are almost
illegible but may be S. W. S. for Sir William
Sinclair.
xiv. N.E. 1 Sept. 1913.
141. Dovecot.-A large rectangular dovecot
stands in the haugh 50 yards north-west of
Pencaitland School. It measures 19 1/2 feet by
22 3/4 feet externally and rises in two stages
to a total hight of 30 feet. It is built of
rubble covered with harling, and the gables
are crowstepped ; the roof is of timber and is
slated. Beneath the eaves course and set over
the entrance is a projecting tablet, which may
be inscribed but is now covered with harling.
xiv. N.E. 22 May 1920.
142. Wester Pencaitland Village Cross.-
This cross stands at the cross roads on the south
side of the street. On a graduated base of
five square steps rests a pedestal, square on
plan and with an ogival intake at top. From
the pedestal a shaft, octagonal on plan, rises
to a carved capital carrying a cubical block
with dials on the sides ; the gnoma are copper.
xiv. N.E. 26 June 1913. |
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PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONKIRK.
143. Burial Knowe, Milton Farm.-Some
300 yards south-west of Milton farm steading,
on the summit of a ridge running north and
south, the O.S. map notes "Stone Cists and
[marginal note]
See Proc. Soc. Ant.
Scot., vol.III. pp.503-6.
? Early Xtian burials.
Human Remains Found." The land has been
long under cultivation, and there is now not
the slightest vestige of a cairn.
xiv. N.E. 8 July 1913.
PRESTONKIRK.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE
144. Parish Church.-The parish church and
churchyard of Prestonkirk are situated on an
[marginal note]
Illustration
wanted
eminence overlooking a wooded haugh tra-
versed by the River Tyne 1/4 mile to the north
of East Linton village. The church is an oblong
structure erected in 1770 on a site previously
occupied by a mediæval church. The eastern
termination of this early building has fortun-
ately been preserved almost in entirety and
presents an interesting example of mid-13th
century design. It is unlikely that the 18th
century structure, which is wider than the
13th century chancel, is erected on the foun-
dations of its predecessor, as the chancel is
obviously curtailed in length and would have
extended farther west than the east gable of
the present church. The internal width of the
fragment-17 feet 6 inches-suggests that nave
and chancel were of the same width and were
housed beneath one roof with no structural
division other than a low screen.
The chancel is square ended. The eastern
gable and some 18 feet of the south wall are
intact from the ground to the wall-head. The
north wall, though modern, appears to be built
on the old foundations. These walls are about
3 1/2 feet thick and are of ashlar quarried appar-
ently from the same place as the stones of
Tynninghame Church. Along the south and
east walls there returns a heavy offset course
with a weathered cope, from which arise
buttresses of slight saliency to strengthen the
angles of the chancel, while other buttresses
divide the east gable into three bays. These
latter buttresses rise squarely to a sill course,
above which the arrises are chamfered and
stopped beneath a weathered set-off.
In each of the bays of the east gable is a
tall lancet window with an obtusely pointed
90
head beneath a hood-mould received on either
side by the flanking buttresses ; the jamb
mouldings consist of two splays with inter-
mediate planes at right angles to each other.
In the south wall are two shorter lancets under
hood-moulds. Their sills are at a higher level
than those of the east windows.
The chancel is roofed in and forms a mortuary
chapel for the Hepburns of Smeaton. It is in
good repair and, if denuded of its dense
covering of ivy, will require no further attention
for some considerable time.
A square 17th century tower built of rubble
projects from the west gable of the church.
It is four storeys in height, is divided hori-
zontally by a stringcourse and terminates in
a slated roof ogival in contour. The windows
have semi-circular heads, and these and the
quoins have back-set margins. On the south
wall at ground level there is an offset course
returning along the west wall. This course
appears to be either later than the present
church or to have been repaired subsequent
to the rebuildings.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The church was at first
designated of Linton, later as Hauch,1 next as
Prestonhaugh, finally Prestonkirk. Linton was
one of the three places in Lothian in which the
body of St. Baldred was buried2 and the
church was dedicated to Baldred. In 1127
Blahan was priest of Linton3 and the church
of Linton was among those dedicated by
David de Bernham in 1240. Baiamund or
' Bagimont '4 collected from the church of
Linton, through its rector, for the terms
December 25, 1274 and June 24, 1275 the sum
of £8, comparatively a very large amount,
being payment for the first year of the
crusading tenth; and a similar amount for the
second year 1275-6.5 On the foundation of
the collegiate church of Dunbar it was annexed
thereto as a prebend-" the church of Hauche,
called the prebendarie of Lintoune."6 In 1493
John Irland was parson of ' Halch,'7 but there
was a notable succession of Hepburns in the
prebendary before and after the Reformation :
Patrick Hepburn rector in 1462, George Hep-
burn parson or rector in 1548 and 1563,
Robert Hepburn in 1588 and Edward Hepburn
in 1617.8 In 1584 the patronage of the prebend
was ratified to Francis Earl of Bothwell and in
1606 to the Earl of Dunbar.9 |
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PRESTONKIRK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONKIRK.
1 Act. Parl. iii., p. 256, No. 73 ; Reg. Mag.
Sig. 1605 No. 1581 ; 2 Scotich. Lib. iii., cap.
xxix. ; 3 Liber Vitæ Eccl. Dunmel. (Surtees
Soc.) p. 68 ; 4 Papal collector ; 5 Theiner Vetera
Monumenta, pp. 109, 113 ; 6 Act. Parl. iv., p.
294 ; Inq. Spec. Hadd. No. 233 ; 7 Parl. Records
(1804) p. 378 ; 8 Milne-Home MSS. Nos. 596,
608, 81, 462 and 614 ; 9 Act. Parl. iii., p. 265 ;
iv. 294(a).
vi. S.W. 11 July 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
145. Markle.-This construction stands 3/4 of a
mile north-west of East Linton station ; on the
[marginal note]
Plan
wanted.
north the railway cuts through the site. On
the south-east there is a high rocky bank with
level and partially marshy ground at base,
which skirts an outcrop of rock lying to its
north and west. The outcrop has been sur-
rounded by a ditch flanked by outer and inner
ramparts to form an enclosure of some 850
feet from north-east to south-west by 450
feet from north-west to south-east, which was
probably entered from the south-east. The
ditch is greatly wasted, and the railway cutting
has destroyed the north and north-eastern
portion of the enclosure, but on the north-
north-west and west it still has a depth of
about 6 feet and a width of 20 feet. Along the
parados of the north-north-west portion a
stone wall about 3 feet thick can be traced ;
south of this, within the enclosure, where the
rock is naturally terraced, and at a point about
midway along the site there is a vaulted
structure, oblong on plan with its major axis
80° magnetic, which measures 31 1/4 feet by 15 1/4
feet within walls averaging 3 feet 3 inches in
thickness. The east gable still stands to its
complete height, but the outer walls are frag-
mentary. The gable has been heightened to
receive a very acutely pitched roof. The
masonry suggests the the structure has either
been built out of old material or that it had
become so ruinous that a complete recon-
struction was necessary. For the most part
it is of rubble obtained on the site, but there
is an admixture of light-coloured freestone on
the lower portion of the east gable. At ground
level the gable is penetrated by a lintelled
doorway of freestone with a splay wrought on
the jambs. On the inner face towards the
91
south-eastern angle there is a window which
has been built up. It has an ecclesiastical
appearance and seems to have been a lancet
light with a deeply splayed ingoing ; the free-
stone jamb is splayed like the door. There is
no trace of a similar light in the correspond-
ing angle ; instead a single corbel projects
internally some 5 feet above the entrance,
but what purpose it served is obscure. There are
two scarcements, one above the doorway and the
other above the window. The former suggests
that the building was floored at that level
while the latter probably received the wall
couple of the roof.
The bank against which the structure is built
runs north-north-east and south-south-west and
appears to have been walled, with circled
towers projecting northwards at the north-
eastern portion, and to have had cross walls
running from it south-eastwards. Between the
cross walls are the ruins of a second structure,
which was at least three storeys in height,
of 16th century date and oblong on plan. It
measures 75 1/2 feet from east to west by 41 1/2
feet from north to south. On the east there is
a rubble wall about 2 feet 7 inches in thickness
by 44 feet in length, mainly built in the local
igneous stone but containing a small percentage
of freestone ; the dressings are of red freestone.
At the northern end of this wall there is a
stone channel widening internally, which was
an let for water ; adjoining it to the south
are the remains of a cupboard recess ; the
north wall has contained a kitchen fireplace.
The upper storey had a wooden floor. A
window and a small recess are the only features
at this level. The window is lintelled, and the
[marginal note]
rounded arris.
arrises of jambs and lintel are rounded off.
The upper portion of the jamb ingoings are
grooved, and the lintel and sill are morticed
for two vertical iron bars. Fifty feet west is
another portion of the building forming three
sides of a rectangular tower, circled internally.
It has an interior diameter of 14 feet 8 inches
and shows signs of rebuilding. An oblong
structure projects southwards from the tower ;
it measures 36 feet by 11 feet within walls
from 2 1/2 to 3 feet in thickness. This last may
be later than the structures mentioned above.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-There was a chapel at
Markle or " Merkill " dedicated to S. Mary
(S. Maria de Merkill), the patronage of which |
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PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONKIRK.
was associated in grants with that of the church
of Linton or Prestonkirk.1 Later (1699) it
appears as the chapel of St. Mariota.2
Alan of " Merkshulle " was an archer serving
" Peter de Lubant " as English commander
with other men from East Lothian in Living-
stone Peel in 1312.3 " Markle " is in the
list of places burnt in 1401 and again in
Hertford's invasion of 1544.
1 Act. Parl. 1581 iii., p. 256 No. 73 ; Reg.
Mag. Sig. 1605 No. 1581, and 1594 No. 166 ;
2 Inquisit Spec. Hadd. No. 388 ; 3 Introd.
p. xxvii ; Bain's Calendar iii., p. 411.
vi. S.W. 12 July 1919.
146. Waughton Castle.-Waughton Castle,
which lay 2 3/4 miles north-north-west of East
Linton, was, on 14th January 1569, the scene
of a raid by "Robert Hepburne, sonne to ye
laird of Waughtone," who "came to the hous of
Waughtone and brake ye stabills and tooke
out 16 horses : the laird of Carmichale being
capitane and keeper of the said house of
Waughtone."1
From level and low lying garden ground on
the south, a terrace of rock, which measures
175 feet from east to west by 118 feet from
north to south, rises sheer to a height of 15
feet at south and west. The south-west angle
has been occupied by the house, of which only
a small projecting wing remains. This rises
from the base of the rock to a height of 25 feet
above it and is built of the local igneous rubble
with light coloured freestone dressings at
quoins and voids. A narrow window in the
south wall has an edge-roll with flanking
hollows wrought on jambs and lintel, which
evidences a 16th century date for the structure.
On north and east the rock has been bounded
by a wall, but this and the ruined structure
at the north-east angle of the site are much
later than the house. From the rock a stair-
case, only partially artificial, leads down to
the garden ground at base.
DOVECOT.-A 16th century dovecot in a
ruinous condition lies 80 yards south of the
site. It is circular on plan with an internal
diameter of 13 1/4 feet, and rises in three tiers
to a height of 20 feet. The entrance which
faces north is checked for a door opening
outwards ; the nests, as usual, are of stone.
92
On the Hepburns of Waughton see Introd.
p. xxiv and on Waughton Castle p. xxix.
1 Birrel's Diary, p. 18.
v. N.E. 23 April, 1920.
[marginal note]
Visited with J.S.
Richardson, J.G.
Collendar, I.G.
Lindsay, and
G. Thomson, 13.
xii. '27.
Visited 20-vi
'46. also with C.
G. Lind and to
[?] Nos,
23.vi-'46.
147. Hailes Castle.-The ruin of this castle
stands on the right bank of the River Tyne
1 1/2 miles south-west of East Linton ; although
the bank at this point is precipitous and the
castle is elevated considerably above the water,
the conformation of the surroundings all but
conceals the structure. The site has been
conditioned by the extent of the rocky outcrop
on which the castle is founded and is bounded
and naturally strengthened on the west by a
small ravine traversed by a burn, which flows
into the Tyne.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 133.-Hailes Castle (No. 147).
The castle (fig. 133) consists of an outer and
inner ward encompassed by walls of enceinte,
which abut on an oblong tower situated mid-
way in the north stretch, and in a second oblong
tower, which is salient, at the north-west angle;
between these towers the curtain is embodied
in a later building. The maximum length from
east to west is 238 feet and the maximum width
from north to south 93 feet. The outer ward
lies to the east ; at the north-east angle are the
[marginal note]
The ingo is
bevelled :
there is no
sign of an
arch!
fragments of an arched postern. At the junc-
tion of the outer and inner wards there are, on
the south, indications of a circular tower with a
projection external to the wall of enceinte,
which to the west of this is salient. In this
portion of the wall, where it faces due south, the
remains of the arched principal entrance are
found. The north wall of enceinte is built on
and follows the line of rocks cresting the river
bank. At the junction of the west tower and the
contiguous north wall of enceinte a semi-
circular headed postern opens on to the river |
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PRESTONKIRK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONKIRK.
bank, and about 30 feet east of the mid tower
a postern stair, which is canted towards the
west and has a ribbed and vaulted roof, leads
from the enceinte by a straight flight to a
landing some 15 feet above the water level.
An isolated pier 5 feet out from the landing
was intended to support the edge of a draw-
bridge reached from a moveable ladder. The
arch of the staircase is low and obtusely
pointed ; the ribs are chamfered. The masonry
of the mid tower, where it has not been re-
built, is of large cubical blocks of reddish
freestone ashlar diagonally axed, but the
dressings and mouldings have been polished.
The masonry of the curtain wall east of this
tower is similar, and similar work can be traced
in the remaining portion of this curtain and
in the north-west tower, although the tower
and the latter portion of the curtain have been
largely reconstructed. A heavy basement
[marginal note]
This basement
course is returned
along the w.side
of the tower : the
wall w. of this,
embodied in
later buil-
ing, has been
moved forward.
course returns along the north wall of the mid
tower and probably continued along the
curtain. The masonry of the curtains on the
south and west is dissimilar and inferior,
betokening a later period of building.
The north-west tower is quadrangular. It
has contained five storeys beneath the wall
head ; the outer walls still stand, although in
a ruinous state, for a height of 40 to 50 feet,
but the east wall, which faces the ward and
in which the entrance would be situ-
ated, is fragmentary. The basement storey
contains two apartments. The larger, to the
south, measures 15 1/2 feet by 18 3/4 feet. It has
had a vaulted ceiling, below which lay an
entresol floor. The smaller chamber 14 feet
by 6 1/4 feet, which was probably a " pit,"
or prison (fig. 134) still retains its vaulted
ceiling, in which there is a hatch, but this has
been filled in. It is lit by two narrow apertures
in the north and west walls ; the northern has
a soil outlet in its sill, the other may be more
correctly described as a ventilation flue, as the
inner sill is at a considerably lower level than
the daylight. A narrow bench returns along the
lateral walls. A vice or wheel-stair, of which
traces can still be seen, occupied the north-east
angle. The two H-shaped apertures for cross-
bow fire in the north wall of this staircase are
noteworthy. These are of the latter half of the
14th century. The fireplaces in the south wall
of the tower on the upper floors have a bowtell
93
with flanking hollows wrought on jambs and
lintel ; the lintel is joggle jointed.
The large tower midway along the north
curtain is incomplete in that the south and the
greater portion of the east wall are missing.
The remaining walls still stand to a height of
20 feet above the present level of the enceinte
with a total height of some 40 feet above the
foundation. There appears to be at least one
storey beneath the present level of the enceinte
filled in with debris and inaccessible. At what
is assumed as the first floor level there is a
narrow lancet light in the north gable with
small square recesses in the rectangular scoin-
sons ; the scoinson arch is obtusely pointed
and has a rib. Externally, below this
window, there is
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 134.-Pit, Hailes Castle
(No. 147).
seen a very beautiful
little lancet with a
trefoiled head. In
the west wall, at first
floor level, there are a
garderobe and the
remnants of a fire-
place. Vestiges of
two floors are visible
above this level, the
lower of which has
a mural passage and garderobe with soil
flue in the north wall and a window in the west
wall similar to the north window of the first
floor. The exterior of the north gable is
divided into two tiers by a string-course, which
returns above the head of the window men-
tioned as on the level of the enceinte ; this
string has also returned along the west wall
and has been stepped, but when the adjoining
later building was erected, the string-course
was cleared off flush with the wall surface.
The masonry below the string-course is of
coursed ashlar and above of uncoursed rubble
with ashlar dressings, denoting a reconstruction.
There are four windows in the gable, one on
each of the upper storeys ; these are lancet
and three have obtusely pointed heads, the
fourth being the little lancet with a cusped
trefolied head which has already been men-
tioned.
The north curtain and the towers are coeval
and date from c. 13th century, but, while the
mid tower and that portion of the curtain
which lies eastwards of it are comparatively |
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[Marginal notes]
7 Aug. 1548 :- Iron gates of Hailes Castle taken away by Arran's order - see Hamilton Papers, vol.
Hailes Castle, near Haddington , resieged by Henry Hotspur , and battle there, 1399 -- II p. 616.
Liber Pluscardensiss , vol I , p.340.
Siege of Hailes Castle . 1445 , see Pitscottie , ed . Dalyell , vol I. p.56.
Attacked in
1401 see
Introduction p xxvii.
PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONKIRK.
untouched on the lower portion at least, the
remainder of the north curtain and the north-
west tower have been extensively rebuilt. The
later building (fig. 99), three storeys and an attic
in height, which lies between the towers, was
apparently erected in the 15th century and
altered in the 16th century. The basement is
barrel-vaulted, and windows are inserted where
required in the curtain and in the southern
wall. The upper floor, which does not communi-
cate internally with the basement, was entered
through a wide semicircular arched doorway,
subsequently contracted, in the south wall, and
was reached from a wooden forestair against
the south wall as evidenced by the projecting
corbels for the landing, which are still in situ.
The windows have splayed jambs and lintels,
the scoinson arches are semicircular and the
arrises are chamfered off ; the north windows
are provided with seats. Internally in the
south wall, west of the doorway, there is a
recess 12 inches deep and 1 foot 10 inches wide.
The head is ogival and is formed in one stone ;
the sill is hollowed and may originally have
projected as a basin, as there is an outlet.
This feature is not in situ, and the sill has
afterwards been roughly rebated to receive a
wooden door, thus forming a little cupboard.
There is a precisely similar feature with ogival
head, basin and outlet in the 15th century
tower of Sauchie near Alva, Clackmannanshire.
In the Antiquities of Scotland (vol. i., p. 88)
by Francis Grose there is given a view of the
Castle, drawn in 1787, showing the latest
portion roofed and entire, and the upper
portions of the towers, which are now destroyed,
in a fairly complete state. The mid tower has
a parapet and walk and on the north wall of
the north-west tower near the north-west angle
there is shown a projection borne on four
heavy machicolated corbels, which was pro-
bably not defensive in purpose but merely
an outlet from garderobes.
Since the illustration in Grose was drawn,
large masses of masonry have fallen, and the
unrestricted growth of vegetation on the walls,
coupled with the elements, is slowly dis-
integrating the remains of this castle, one of
a type gradually disappearing through neglect
and misuse.
The walls of the north-west tower and curtain
have a maximum thickness of 10 and 9 feet
94
[marginal note]
Dunpender Law. beacon on, 1523 , see Acts of Lands Council
in Public Affairs. Scotland , 1501-54, p. 170.
respectively. The mid tower on the north-east
measures 43 feet by 24 3/4 feet over walls 6 and
7 1/2 feet thick. The later wing, 53 feet by 23 3/4
feet, has walls 2 feet 10 inches thick, except
on the north at the basement level where the
curtain is embodied.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The writer of the
account of The Expedicion into Scotlande by
the Duke of Somerset in 1547 speaks of " a
proper house and of sum strengthe bylyke, they
call it Hayles Castell, and perteyneth to the
Erle Bothwell."1 In February 1548 Lord Gray
of Wilton2 had the place delivered to him and
wrote " The house is for the bignes, of suche
excellent bewtie within, as I have seldom sene
any in Englande except the Kinges Majesties,
and of verie good stregthe."3 Thereafter
Hugh Douglas with fifty men held it for the
English invaders.4 This was apparently Hugh
Douglas of Longniddry.5
On the Hepburns of Hailes and Earls of
Bothwell, see Introd. p. xxiv.
1 W. Patten in Fragments of Scottish History,
Dalyell, p. 38 ; 2 cf. Introd. p. xxix ; 3 Cal.
Scott. Papers i., p. 81 ; 4 Ib. p. 85 ; 5 Ibid.
cf. Nos. 190, 299.
vi. S.W. 3 July 1913.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTION.
148. Fort, Traprain Law.-Traprain Law,
or Dumpender Law* (fig. 135), lies 1 1/2 miles to
the south-south-west of the small town of East
Linton in the parish of Prestonkirk. It is situ-
ated in an undulating terrain, which swells
gradually upwards from the East Lothian sea-
board to the Lammermuirs. Its summit-710
feet above sea-level and 360 feet above its base-
commands a wide prospect ranging from the
Pentland Hills round Gullane Hill and North
Berwick to Dunbar, while to the southward
the Lammermuirs fill the horizon.
From the earliest times, owing to its com-
manding position at the edge of a rich cham-
paign and its strong natural defences, the hill
must have been periodically under occupation.
On plan it is oval, lying with its main axis
*Given in a charter ante 1368 as Dumpelder
(tenementum de Trepprane etc. unacum monte de
Dumpelder. R.M.S. i, p. 483) : in 1455 as
Dunpender Law. (Acta. Parl. Scot. ii, p. 44). |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 135.-From the North.
FIG. 136.-Section of Walling.
TRAPRAIN LAW (No. 148).
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PRESTONKIRK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONKIRK.
north-east and south-west, and is somewhat
pointed towards the former direction. Along
the south-east flank a precipitous wall of rock
rises from a steep rock-strewn slope to a height
of 200 feet, breaking away as it sinks to a lower
level towards the south-west in hardly less
precipitous crags. Along the north-west flank
the ground rises directly from the base very
sharply to a height of some 50 feet and upwards
with a broken and
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 137.-Traprain Law (No. 148).
rocky surface,
which in itself con-
stituted a formid-
able barrier in
early times.
Above this, on
the more souther-
ly half of the
north-west expos-
ure, it mounts
upwards with a
gradually dimin-
ishing gradient to
the actual summit,
which lies at no
great distance
back from the edge
of the precipice on
the opposite side.
The fortificat-
ions practically
contain the whole
hill, following the
edge of the steep
slope at the base
on one side and
the crest of the
south-eastern pre-
cipice on the other,
thus including an
area of about 32
acres, approx-
imately half a mile in length by some 330 yards
in breadth (fig. 137). Starting from the termin-
ation of the precipice towards the southern end
of the western side, a rampart 6 feet wide
with a stone revetment swings round the broad
extremity of the hill and is carried along
the edge of the lower escarpment on
the north-western flank, until it meets an
obtruding mass of rock, beyond which the
side of the hill becomes steeper and is rough
95
with masses of rock detached and in outcrop.
Taking advantage of this change of surface,
the rampart is deflected abruptly to the right
up the hill, and a sharp turn to the
left passes along the upper edge of the steeper
slope, eventually turning round the north-east
end to meet the precipice on the opposite side.
Some distance beyond the rocky outcrop where
the first deflection occurs, a terrace breaks
[illustration continued]
FIG. 137.-Traprain Law (No. 148).
across the flank of the hill for a considerable
distance. On to this terrace at its north-
eastern end, and close to the huge quarry
which now disfigures the face of the hill, there
leads an approach which appears to have
formed at one time an important access to
the fort. The road proceeds up a hollow, and
where it debouches on the terrace its outer side
is demarcated to right and to left by large
stones set on end. The lower edge of this |
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PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONKIRK.
terrace has been defended by a wall (fig. 136)
built, as to its lower courses (which alone
remain), against the edge of the bank. Fig. 135
shows the northern flank with its lines of
fortification, so far as still visible from a
distance.
At certain places there may be picked out
indications, often vague and indefinite, of
another defensive system, which, to judge from
the worn and attenuated appearance of the
remains is possibly a more ancient one. The
summit-area of the hill lies parallel to the edge
of the south-eastern precipice, with no very
marked alteration in gradient from end to end.
Towards the south-western extremity, facing
the north, this area is bounded by an escarp-
ment broken up with masses of rock of sufficient
importance to be treated as a factor in a
scheme of fortification. At the southern ex-
tremity of the escarpment, just where a road-
way enters the summit-plateau, traces of an
ancient wall or rampart may be observed,
sometimes marked by upright stones and
sometimes by the debris, partially covered by
turf, forming excrescences on the surface. It
may be traced meandering along the edge of
the escarpment for a considerable distance, till
the rocky surface gives place to grass, when it
turns down over the haunch of the hill to
intersect the main rampart coming up from
below, just at the point where the latter makes
its higher deflection to the left, and proceeds
direct towards the north-east end of the hill.
On the upper side there is no actual contact
with two lines, but from the lower face of
the main rampart, the other, which is
presumed to be of earlier construction, is
distinctly visible curving for a short distance
farther down the hill and then along the flank
north-eastwards in a direction roughly parallel
to the main defence. At the point where the
upper portion of this ancient wall swerves to
proceed down the haunch of the hill, yet
another rampart of what appears to be the
primary system may be discerned. Starting
here it runs north-eastwards towards the ex-
tremity of the summit-plateau, roughly parallel
to and at a considerable higher level than the
main secondary defence, but fades away before
it actually attains the end of the hill.
Besides the entrance in the neighbourhood
of the quarry, four other gateways give access
96
to the enceinte, seemingly arranged in pairs.
Approached from the north-east, the eastmost
of the first pair occurs about 175 feet beyond
the point of deflection of the main rampart and
has been approached by a well-defended track
which winds up the lower escarpment. Through
the rampart, with a width of about 10 feet,
its course is oblique, pointing eastward, and,
when it opens on to the interior, it is flanked
to the westward by a rocky bank preventing
any easy access in that direction. Its neighbour
lies 130 feet farther on and is somewhat wider.
After an interval of some 340 feet the first
of the next pair is met, approached through a
deep hollow. The approach is faced on the
interior by a traverse of rock, which com-
pletely commands it from a height of some
10 to 12 feet above the solum of the gateway,
and around the ends of which the paths in
either direction must have turned. The
approach to the second is carried by an easy
gradient along the flank of a bluff, from the
crest of which it is overlooked, to the entrance
in the rampart about 12 feet in width. Run-
ning from it directly into the interior a roadway
can be discerned by the slight hollow which
marks its surface as well as by the occasional
occurrence of large stones set on end at one
side of its course, leading up the broad haunch,
which the hill presents at this point, to a dip
in the escarpment demarcating the summit-
plateau towards the south-west end on the
northern side. As this road approaches the
dip, a bifurcation may be observed, marked
out by occasional stones set on end protruding
from the turf and leading in a north-easterly
direction towards a fairly extensive plateau,
that lies just below the hill-top slope.
In the early summer of 1914 the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland commenced excava-
tions on this plateau. The site chosen lies some
100 feet below the summit with a general trend
from north to south and protected by rising
ground on its eastern flank. A branch road
seems to have run on to it at the southern end
from the main track that led to the summit.
A forest of nettles and the occurrence of a few
relics thrown up by the burrowing of rabbits
gave ample indications of previous occupation.
Work was continued in the summer of 1915,
but in the following year, owing to the circum-
stances of the war, the research had to be |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 138.-Socketed Axes.
FIG. 139.-Dragonesque Fibulæ, etc.
TRAPRAIN LAW (No. 148).
To face p. 96. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG 140.-Silver and Bronze Objects from Traprain Law (No. 148).
To face p. 97. |
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PRESTONKIRK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONKIRK.
discontinued and was not resumed until May 1919.
Since then digging has been carried on each
year throughout the summer. It has been
found that soil has accumulated on the site,
from the earliest period of occupation, to a
depth in places of little short of 4 feet. At
about 14 inches below the present surface the
latest floor level is encountered. From this
downwards, till the natural rubble or rock is
reached, evidences occur of more or less con-
tinuous occupation, but it has been found
advisable to take four arbitrary levels at a few
inches apart. As the original surface on which
the soil is accumulated is not persistently level
throughout but is here and there broken by
obtruding masses of rock, it will be readily
understood that none of the levels except the
top one can be taken as representing an exactly
contemporaneous occupation ; for, where the
ground rises, evidences of an occupation clearly
belonging to the earliest period may be found
on the horizon one laid down above a hollow
at a much later date. The foundations ex-
posed on these floor levels consist for the
most part of fragmentary masses of the native
rock with very rarely any indication of building.
Paved areas suggest the interiors of dwellings,
and remains of burned clay, bearing distinctly
on one side the impress of wattles, indicate
that the walls have been formed of wattle and
daub. On the highest level occur the most
noticeable indications of structure. The houses
in all cases have been curvilinear, sometimes
apparently with hearths inside, but in other
cases it would appear with the hearths in the
open. There has nowhere been any indication
of masonry or the use of dressed stone.
Numerous hearths have been exposed, oblong
and rectangular, usually surrounded with a
kerb of ware-worn stones or pieces of rock set
on edge and paved with fragments of sandstone
neatly fitted together. The lowest level of all
has throughout been most prolific in the yield
of relics. From the objects recovered it is
evident that the earliest occupation of the
hill occurred during some period of the later
Stone Age. Polished axes, arrow heads of
flint and scrapers have been brought to light.
Among the arrow heads the prevailing type is
the leaf-shaped or lozenge-shaped ; only two
barbed arrow heads having so far been found.
A small Tardenoisian or pigmy flint was dis-
97
covered in 1922. The evidences of the Bronze
Age occupation are more numerous and point
to it having occurred during the latest
period of that phase of culture. It is evidenced
by finds of socketed axes (fig. 138), small
straight sided chisels, a shouldered chisel and
one or two parts of dagger blades. But perhaps
the most interesting relics of this period are
fragments of the handle portion of a clay mould
for casting a bronze sword and a portion of a
smaller mould for a spear head with a lunette
opening in the blade. A longitudinal perfor-
ation in the mould for a sword beneath the
matrix indicates that, to give stability to the
mould, it has been reinforced evidently with a
rod of bronze, some 3/16 inch in diameter. Bronze
Age pottery is represented by the remains of
four cinerary urns and a small incense cup,
found with incinerated remains in a hollow in
the rocks. Of the Iron Age the earliest relics
found thus far are probably a socketed axe of
iron conforming to the Bronze Age type, and a
pin 3 inches in length with a circular head 3/4 inch
in width with deep concavities on each side.
The general character of the relics recovered
throughout the various levels is, however,
Celtic and corresponds generally to those of
Romano-British times in the south. It is
noteworthy, moreover, that taken from the
bottom upwards, the number of finds and of
fragments of pottery diminishes in inverse
ration to the depth at which they have been
found. Though the evidences of occupation on
the latest floor level are coextensive with those
on the earliest, the relics from the former are
as a rule practically negligible.
The list of coins found ranges from a legion-
ary denarius of Mark Anthony of the 1st
century to coins of Arcadius and Honorious
in the beginning of the 5th century, at which
time the occupation of the hill appears to
have terminated. By collation over a number
of years a fairly accurate chronology of the
finds could probably be arrived at. The time
has not yet come, however, when each object
can be absolutely relegated to its particular
period.
The relics found have been numerous and
attention may be drawn to the more important.
Weapons are represented by spears (fig. 141),
spear-butts and fragments of swords. The
spears are of two sorts : those which are leaf-
7 |
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PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONKIRK.
shaped, and for the most part, have a mid rid and
a closed socket, apparently the earlier type ;
and those with a narrow blade and an open
socket, seemingly later in date as all have come
from the higher levels. The fragments of
swords indicate narrow double-edged blades of
the character of the native swords found at
Newstead. Tools (fig. 142) are represented by
chisels, the socketed axe mentioned above, a
rasp, numerous knives, and, though perhaps
to be reckoned rather as utensils than tools,
several pairs of shears. The ornaments (fig.
140) form the most numerous section. Fibulæ
(figs. 139 and 145) have been found in con-
siderable numbers ; bowshaped examples of
the well known Backworth type, some of them
enamelled ; several S-shaped or dragonesque
fibulæ. mostly fragmentary, sometimes enam-
elled, and in one case plain; knee fibulæ, in
several instances decorated with silver inlay.
Small penannular fibulæ are also fairly numer-
ous. A number of bronze pins have been found,
as a rule ring-headed and with a shouldered
stem, the ring being either plain or fashioned
with a flat plate in the lower semicircle and
with 3, 5 or 6 beads of silver above, while in
several instances the head is formed entirely of
continuous beads. It is noteworthy that
none of these pins has come from the lowest
level. The most usual type of finger ring is
the spiral ring formed of a thin plano-convex
strip of bronze wire. Dress fasteners are a
numerous class, and their frequent occurrence
suggests that their use was rather what this
name implies than harness-mountings. The
large number of fragments of glass armlets is
an unusual occurrence and seems to indicate
that such objects were more in use in the
Scottish area than in the south, where com-
paratively few have been found. They are
of two distinct classes, one being those made of
opaque white or yellow glass and left plain,
and the other those decorated with a trailed or
inlaid ornament. A number of this latter class
have been formed in the first instance of clear
greenish tinted glass and covered thereafter
with a skin of yellow enamel, into which has
been run, in a prepared channel, lines of
red or some other colour. Such fragments
are invariably reduced or checked at the
ends so as to form a neck, the obvious purpose
having been to hold one end of a metal mount,
98
showing that in some instances bracelets were
worn made up of segments of different pattern.
The glass armlets occur throughout the levels,
those of earlier date being apparently self
coloured and triangular in section. Bracelets
of cannel-coal, or jet, are common from the
two earlier levels but scarce in the later.
Rings of that material, possibly worn in sus-
pension (certainly not for the finger), come
chiefly from the upper levels. Beads are
scarce, though a number have been found both
of amber and of glass. The small discoid bead
of opaque yellow paste is of fairly frequent
occurrence. A number of harness mountings
have been found, including several terret rings
with spheres placed symmetrically on the cir-
cumference. Several small mounts of bronze
with square loops at the back, usually of
foliate form, have also been recovered. Pieces
of several horse shoes of iron have been found
on the higher levels. Besides the tools men-
tioned above, the work of the craftsman is
evidenced by the discovery of moulds. Some
of these have been cut in sandstone, but the
majority have been made of finely washed clay,
or as it is technically termed, sand. The most
interesting of these are the fragments of
moulds of the Bronze Age already referred to.
The later moulds, several of which were found,
were used for casting small objects for
personal adornment, such as bronze dress
fasteners and pins. Agriculture was repre-
sented by several small sickles of iron (fig. 143)
and the finding of a cache of barley. The
numerous whorls, which increase in number
from the bottom level upwards, show that
spinning was much practised. A few Roman
objects have been found, notably a folding
spoon of bronze, 4 1/2 inches in length. The
forepart of the handle is made to represent
an outstretched lion, between whose paws the
blade of the spoon has been hinged. The
opposite end, flattened out to a fan shape, is
split on one side and has been pierced with a
pin, on which has been hinged another object,
possibly a lancet. For such a blade to rest in
there is a sight groove along the side and a
catch at the opposite end of the handle. On
its inside the handle has been left hollow to
hold some other instrument, possibly a probe,
the remains of the hinge for which are visible
beneath the fan shaped terminal. A spoon |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 141.-Iron Spear-heads from Traprain Law (No. 148).
To face p. 98. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments.-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 142.-Iron Tools from Traprain Law (No. 148).
To face p. 98. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 143.-Sickles etc. of iron from Traprain Law (No. 148)
To face p. 99. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 144.-Silver Objects as found.
FIG. 145.-Fibulæ.
TRAPRAIN LAW (No. 148).
To face page 98. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 146.-Silver and Gilt Flagon.
FIG. 147.-Other Side.
FIG. 148.-Triangular Bowel, Restored.
FIG. 149.-Bowl as Discovered.
TRAPRAIN LAW (No. 148).
To face p. 99. |
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PRESTONKIRK.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONKIRK.
illustrated by Roach Smith in his " Illus-
trations of Roman London," and a portion of
another found at Wroxeter in 1913, were
obviously similar. A Roman stylus which came
from the earliest level is another notable
Roman relic. Mention must be made of two
inscribed fragments ; one a piece of a vase-
shaped Roman vessel, on the inner or concave
surface of which has been scratched by the
sharp point of a knife in Roman capitals the
three letters " I.R.I." followed by a dash. The
other inscribed object is a fragment of stone,
on which also in Roman capitals occur the
letters " A.B.C." and (owing to fracture) part
only of the letter " D." Roman pottery
throughout is fairly abundant, and specimens
belonging to the 3rd and 4th century and thus
subsequent to the withdrawal of the Romans
from Caledonia have come to light. There
have been found also a considerable number
of pieces of Roman glass vessels, likewise of
late date. The most remarkable find, however,
occurred in the year 1919, when, on lifting the
floor of the second level, there was brought to
light a hoard of Roman silver plate (figs. 144-
149). So close was the top of the cache to that
floor level that it was obvious that the deposit
must have been made at a later date, when the
highest level was under occupation. The cache
occupied a cavity some 2 feet deep by 2 feet
in diameter and contained numerous fragments
of plate much defaced and evidently in course
of being reduced to bullion at the time they
were hidden. With it were found four coins,
one of Valens, one of Valentinian II. and two of
Honorius, indicating that the date of the deposit
was probably in the reign of the latter at the
commencement of the 5th century. Among the
plate were pieces of Christian character,
obviously for church use. Others bore Pagan
symbols, while the bulk was probably remains
of dinner services for ordinary secular use.
The style and general character indicated that
the hoard had come from the Continent,
probably looted from Gaul by Saxons or even
by Celtic pirates. A detailed and fully
illustrated account of the find, under the title
of " The Treasure of Traprain," has been
published by the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland.
The results of the excavations, which are still
being carried on, clearly show that for perhaps
99
a period of 300 years Traprain Law has been
a Celtic township in more or less regular
occupation ; that from the time of the coming
of the Romans in the end of the 1st century
till subsequent to their departure from Had-
rian's (English) wall, there had been established
regular active trade relations with the native
population, who had also instituted a metallic
[marginal note]
Why has no account
of the coins been
given?
currency with the Roman coinage. There is
no direct evidence to show what brought the
occupation of the hill to a close.
See Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vols. xlix., l, lii,
(p. 234), liv, lv, lvi.
xi. N.W. 1914-23.
STANDING STONES.
149. Standing Stones, " The Loth Stone,"
Cairndinnes Farm.-Some 400 yards north
of the standing stone (No. 99) and some 300
yards south-south-west of the foot of Trap-
rain Law, near the corner of a field, is a
fine four-sided pillar, pointed near the top
and slightly inclined to the north-west. It
measures 8 feet in height, 1 foot 10 inches
across the north-western face, 1 foot 7 inches
across the south-western face, 2 feet 6 inches
across the south-eastern face, and 1 foot 3
inches across the north-eastern face.
It is known as the " Loth Stone," as
according to tradition Loth,1 who was a king
in this district, and whose name is said to be
seen in the word " Lothian," was buried here.
To the east of the stone the O.S. map notes
a stone cist found in 1861.
1 Cf. Introd. p. xviii (Note)
xi. N.W. 28 May 1913.
150. Standing Stone, Pencraig Hill.-Some
55 yards north of the Haddington and East
Linton road, on Pencraig Hill, about 3/4 mile
west of East Linton is a fine standing stone
roughly triangular in section and pointed at
the top. It measures 10 feet in height and
9 feet 3 inches in girth at the base.
vi. S.W. 4 June 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
151. East Linton Bridge.-The bridge (fig.
90) at the southern end of the little town of |
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PRESTONKIRK.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONPANS.
East Linton carries the Edinburgh to Berwick
highway across the River Tyne at a point where
a cauld or weir is formed 70 yards above the
cascade falling into the Linn Pool. The
structure lies north-west and south-east and
has a length of 125 feet borne on two arches
over a waterway 90 feet broad. The roadway
now averages 16 feet in width, but it has
been widened on the south and further enlarged
by the introduction of impending parapets.
The arches are segmental and bear four
massive ribs on their soffits. The mean span is
39 1/2 feet. The present width of soffit is 13 feet
10 inches, but the original width of the soffits
was 10 1/2 feet. From each side of the central pier
projects a cut-water with a spreading basement
course carried up originally to the level of the
roadway but now truncated. At the abutments
are successive buttresses, on the south-east
carried up to the parapet as refuges. The
parapets are comparatively modern ; they
diverge at either end of the bridge to increase
the width of the approaches. A keystone on
one arch is inscribed with the date 1763, pre-
sumably the date of a reconstruction. The
structure evidently dates from the 16th century
and is in good condition.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Linton Bridge was the
lowest convenient crossing on the Tyne and
an important link in all military and civil
communications via E. Lothian. Somerset
brought his force across here in 1547 : on
Wednesday 7 Sept. they " came to a fayre
ryuer callen Lyn . . . ouer this riuer is ther
a stone bridge that they name Lynton brig,
of a toun . . . that stonds upon the same ryuer.
Our horsmen and cariages past through the
water (for it was not very depe) ; our footmen
ouer the bridge. The passage was very
straight for an army, and therefore the lengar
in setting ouer."1 In Sept. 1549 when the
English were preparing to evacuate Haddington
it was reported by spies that the French
" have overthrown Lynton bridge and are
rasing it, and entrenching that passage to
stop us. We cannot otherwise pass for the
abundance of water ' as the like hath byn
seldom sen."2 But on March 31, 1560, Lord
Grey with an English force wrote from "Linton-
briggs," saying "We are now at Lintern (sic)
briggis etc."3 So it must have been recon-
structed, as indeed was imperative.
100
1 Patten's Expedicion into Scotlande, p. 37 ;
2 Scot. Pap. i., p. 180 ; 3 Ibid. No. 705.
vi. S.W. 11 July 1913.
152. Graveslab at Smeaton House.-A grave-
slab 7 inches thick, 5 feet 8 inches in length,
1 foot 4 inches in width at top and tapering to
1 foot 1 inch at base is erected on a modern base
on a lawn at Smeaton House. The field is re-
cessed, leaving in relief a margin around the
edges, a central cross flanked by a pair of shears
and a sword with depressed quillons, straight
grip and spear-shaped pommel.
Above the sword is a cross botony also in
relief within a roundel, and on either side of the
central-cross shaft is a panel. The large cross
head is floriated ; the shaft, 2 1/2 inches wide,
is set on a mount resembling an inverted
chalice.
The slab dates from the 15th century and
was unearthed during the formation of a new
entrance to the grounds of Smeaton through
land adjoining the parish church.
vi. S.W. 11 July 1913.
153. St. Baldred's Well.-Some 50 yards
east of the Church (No. 144) under an over-
hanging bank 20 feet back from the river is a
muddy spring known locally as St. Baldred's
Well, but the name is also applied to another
well, still used by the cottages, which lies
beside the footpath leading to the haugh.
vi. S.W. 11 July 1913.
The O.S. map indicates the following sites:-
154. Chapel, Waughton Castle. v. N.E.
155. Graveyard, Waughton Castle. v. N.E.
PRESTONPANS.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
156. Preston Tower.-This tower (fig. 150),
which is mainly a 15th century structure, stands
within an enclosure about 1/4 mile north of
Prestonpans railway station. It is L-shaped on
plan (fig. 151) and measures over all 34 feet
from north to south and 39 feet 6 inches from
east to west; the re-entering angle faces west.
The walls, 6 feet 9 inches thick in the main |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 150.-Preston Tower (No. 156).
To face p. 100. |
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PRESTONPANS.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONPANS.
block and about 4 feet thick in the wing, are
built of a soft reddish sandstone with grey
dressings in 14 inch courses of stones 18 inches
long, but the lower portion of the south wall,
where a softer stone has been used, is much
eroded.
The body of the building is 67 feet high and
contains six storeys, while the jamb contains
seven. The upper storeys, which rise 21 feet
above and within a parapet walk, which returns
round the building except at the north wall
of the shorter wing, are an addition of the
early 17th century, built in a lighter coloured
stone and exhibit Renaissance mouldings on
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 151.-Preston Tower (No. 156).
the jambs and entablatures of the windows.
The remaining semicircular pediments of the
uppermost windows bear the following initials.
On the south side the initials S.I.H. are for
Sir John Hamilton (1565-1644), and on the next
a monogram which may be read S.I.D.K.H.
apparently represents Sir John Hamilton and
his second wife Dame Katherine Howieson.
Their married life covered the years 1620-9,
and it is said that below the monogram was
the date 1626, of which only the first two
figures now remain.1 A painted heraldic panel
of wood, with round arch and fluted column
decoration, which came from the old church of
Prestonpans but is now in private ownership,
bears the same initials (cf. Proc. Soc. Ant.
Scot. vol. 26, pp. 241-50). Thus we get name
and date for the builder of this upper portion
101
of the tower. Of the eastern pediments one
has its initials reduced to the letters S.T., and
what may be the lower part of an H., while on
the other survivor are the initials D.R.B.,
which seem to have been recut. The latter
probably stand for Dame Rachael Burnet third
wife of Sir Thomas Hamilton (1618-c.1672)
and sister of Bishop Burnet, so that the other
initials were apparently those of Sir Thomas.
We should thus have a record of the repair
of this part after its burning in 1650 and the
novodamus charter after the Restoration (See
below). Sir Thomas married Rachael Burnet
after 1662.
[illustration continued]
FIG. 151.-Preston Tower (No. 156).
The parapet and angle rounds are contem-
porary with the upper storeys, but the corbelling
appears to be earlier and might date from the
16th century. The windows, where unaltered,
have a small chamfer worked on the jambs ;
the later windows have moulded jambs or
backset margins or both.
The entrances to the tower are in the east
wall and not within the re-entering angle.
A great corbel, at the level of the parapet
corbels, and a vestige of a neighbour show where
a machicolated projection served these as a
defence. The basement is entered through a
round-headed doorway, which had two doors,
the outer of timber, the inner an iron yett.
Above the lower entrance, but nearer the
south-east angle, there is a second, from which
the Hall is reached. In form it has been similar |
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PRESTONPANS.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONPANS.
to the other but at a later time altered to its
present shouldered head. At the south-
east angle of the tower the presence of raggles,
corbels and mortise holes denotes that a
hoarding of two storeys covered with a lean-to
roof once projected from the walls. This
construction has certainly been an addition,
for its roof would prevent the use of the
defensive feature above the entrance, and
moreover the raggles and mortise holes have
been formed after the walls of the tower were
built.
The basement is barrel-vaulted and contained
two storeys dimly lit by narrow window slits.
The upper floor joists rested on the corbels still
in situ 6 feet above the present floor level.
The only internal communication between the
basement and the Hall on the first floor is a
hatch formed in the vault. At a late period an
access was formed through the west wall at
the southern end, leading into the lowest
portion of the short wing-a prison or pit with
vaulted roof-originally reached from a hatch
in its vault. The only light and ventilation
this prison received was from a flue some 7
inches square formed in a window breast
in the apartment above, which leads down-
wards through the vault. At the north-west
angle of the prison is a slop sink.
The chamber above the pit, probably an
upper prison, is also vaulted and in this vault
there is a hatch. It is only lighted by one
narrow window. The stair at the north-eastern
angle, which ascends to the Hall, is probably
secondary. Above this chamber is a second,
which is at the same level as the Hall ; it
has a vaulted roof ; the north-west angle con-
tains a fireplace, the south-west angle a
garderobe.
The Hall is ceiled with a semicircular barrel
vault and has windows in the south gable and
lateral walls. In the north gable there remains
in situ one moulded jamb of an elaborate 15th
century fireplace ; beyond it to the west is a
rectangular and dog-legged mural recess. A
staircase ascending from the Hall to the upper
floors projects within the apartment at the
south-west angle ; though now entered from the
ingoing of a window in the south wall, it was
originally reached from the angle doorway now
built up. Beneath the south window lay a
102
mural chamber, demolished when the present
entrance to the staircase was formed. The
Hall has been coated with plaster, and traces
of this still remain. An interesting feature is
a moulded plaster cornice of c. 16th century,
which returns across the north wall at the
level of the vault springing, but below this the
wall was probably panelled.
The remaining storeys call for no special
mention.
The building has been conserved within
recent years and is in a fairly good state of
preservation.
DOVECOT.-One hundred yards north of the
tower is a 17th century dovecot oblong on
plan measuring 19 1/4 by 17 1/4 feet and containing
over 1000 stone built nests.
BOUNDARY WALLS, ETC.-The walls of the
enclosure within which the tower stands date
at least from the 17th century. The entrances
are treated in the Renaissance style. West of
the tower there is a square on the boundary
wall, loopholed for guns, resembling those on
the garden wall at Seton Castle.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Preston belonged to a
branch of the Hamiltons from the latter half
of the 14th century. In 1544 the " town and
castle " were burnt by the English army under
the Earl of Hertford. The " house " was
again burnt by Cromwell's soldiers in October
1650 after the battle of Dunbar, when also the
" charter kist " was " totallie spoiled and
destroyed,"2 and a new charter to all the lands
of the family had to be issued in 1663.3 Sir
Thomas Hamilton was then the laird, succeed-
ing under a special provision of entail made by
his childless predecessor John, grandson of the
Sir John Hamilton (1565-1644) who built the
upper part of the tower. The family possessed
also estates in Renfrewshire and Lanarkshire,
and members of it are therefore occasionally
referred to as of Fingalton in Renfrew. The
tower was accidentally set on fire in 1663 and not
thereafter occupied.4 The Preston family was
of the Covenanting party, and the last male of
the direct line was Robert Hamilton, who
commanded the Covenanters at Drumclog and
Bothwell Bridge and died in 1701.
1 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vol. xxvi., p. 243 ;
2 Act. Parl. Scot. vol. vii., p. 98 ; 3 R.M.S.
s.a. No. 416 ; 4 Prestonpans and Vicinity. |
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PRESTONPANS.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONPANS.
P. McNeil, p. 187. Anderson's Memorials of
the House of Hamilton.
ix. N.W. 4 September 1913.
157. Preston House.-A fragment of Preston
House, a 17th century mansion, stands about
100 yards south of Schaw's Hospital at the
east end of Preston. In the late 18th century,
James Schaw, the proprietor, bequeathed the
mansion, lands and barony of Preston with the
residue of other funds in trust for the main-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 152.-Preston House (No. 157).
tenance and education of boys whose parents
were in poor circumstances.1 The fragment
consists of the north front (fig. 152), at either
end of which was a square projecting pavilion or
wing of two storeys, the lower being vaulted,
roofed with an ogival slated roof. The eastern
wing has a modern roof and is used as a store,
the western is ruinous. The masonry is of
freestone rubble and has been harled. At
wall-head level there returns an ogival eaves
course ; the windows and quoins have dressed
and backset margins.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-This house was appar-
ently built either towards the end of the 16th
103
or early in the 17th century for Thomas, son
of Sir James Oswald, Lord Provost of Edin-
burgh, Sir James being descended from a
sister of Sir Thomas Hamilton, and having
himself married Sir Thomas's daughter, while
Thomas Oswald married Sir Thomas's grand-
daughter. Sir Robert therefore (see previous
article), himself unmarried, conveyed his rights
to Thomas Oswald.2 From the Oswalds the
estate was acquired by the well-known Lord
Grange, who later disposed of the property,
the greater part of which was afterwards
[illustration continued]
FIG. 152.-Preston House (No. 157).
purchased by Dr. James Schaw.1
1 Stat. Acct. xvii., p. 78 ; 2 Anderson's
House of Hamilton.
ix. N.W. 6 April 1920.
158. Old Hamilton House.-At the angle
formed by the West Loan with the high road, 360
yards north-west of Prestonpans station, and
almost opposite Northfield House (No. 159), is
a mansion which is now cut up into small artisan
dwellings. There is a main rectangular block
running north and south with rectangular wings
projecting westwards from either end, all |
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PRESTONPANS.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [PRESTONPANS.
portions being two storeys in height. At the
south re-entering angle a semi-hexagonal pro-
jection (fig. 125) houses the staircase and
the former entrance. West of the south wing
is a one storeyed outbuilding, and to the east
the remains of a second, but both these appar-
ently are additions. A boundary wall returning
from the south-west angle north and then east,
where it abuts on the west gable of the north
wing, completes the courtyard. Throughout, the
building is of freestone rubble and has been
harled. The roofs are of slate and timber,
the copes are moulded, the gables crow-
stepped. The windows to north, east and
south have chamfered jambs and lintels ; the
upper floor windows are dormers and have
triangular pediments and raking cornices sur-
mounted by a cinque-foliated finial, the
cinquefoil being the Hamilton charge. On the
south elevation however, to the high road, the
dormer pediments are elaborated and have
horizontal cornices ; the western pediment
has a scrolled cartouche bearing a shield
charged with three cinquefoils two and
one for Hamilton and flanked by the initials
I H for John Hamilton. The middle pediment
bears the date 1628 flanking the monogram
I H K S for John Hamilton and Katherine
(?) Simpson his wife. Immediately under the
apex is a cypher consisting of a capital H, one
limb of which is elevated and expanded into
opposed D-shapes and surmounted by a cross
with arms of unequal lengths. The eastern
pediment contains a scrolled cartouche like
that on the west and bears a shield charged,
three crescents on a chief, a five pointed star
at fess for Simpson ; flanking the shield are
in initials K.S. Adjoining the south wing is a
former entrance to the courtyard by a doorway
with segmental head and roll-and-hollow
mouldings of late Gothic detail.
The courtyard elevations have been greatly
altered. The windows of the east wing only
have moulded jambs and lintels, while slated
roofs replace the original dormer pediments.
The original entrance, now built up, is in the
semi-hexagonal projection at the south re-
entering angle. The doorway has moulded
jambs and lintel ; above is a horizontal cornice
continuing along the tower as a stringcourse.
A raking and broken cornice encloses a pedi-
ment enriched with carving, which contains a
104
scrolled cartouche, surmounted by a floriated
and reeded finial with moulded necking, ter-
minating in a cinque-foil. The cartouche bears
a shield charge per pale, three cinque-foils
two and one for Hamilton ; on a chief three
crescents ; a star at fess for Symson. Behind
the cartouche appears a foliaceous wreathing
with a crescent and star at either side, and be-
neath is the date 1628. Above the entrance the
first floor window jambs are moulded. The
lintel bears an index finger pointing to an
inscription in capitals :
PRAISED BE THE LORD MY STRENGTH AND MY
REDEIMER.
Above the lintel is a horizontal cornice and a
pediment enclosed by a raking and broken
cornice sur-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 154.-Northfield (No. 159).
mounted by
foliaceous
scrolls. The
pediment bears
a cherub wing-
ed, above which
is a thistle. The
projection or
tower now has a
pyramidal slated roof which is not original ;
the stair within is modern.
Internally the house has been completely
modernised, but the ground floor chamber of
the main east wing still contains a large 17th
century fireplace. The method of supporting
the scoinson arches of the windows in this
room by corbelling is an interesting feature ; a
similar device is utilised at Redhouse (No. 7).
ix. N.W. 6 April 1920.
159. Northfield House.-Within a pleasant
garden 300 yards north-west of Prestonpans
station lies the mansion of the Marjoribanks
of Northfield, a building of the late 16th or
early 17th century (fig. 153). It is two storeys,
an attic and garret in height and is L-shaped
on plan (fig. 154). The masonry is roughcast,
but the freestone dressings are exposed; the
roof is slated. The ground and first floor
windows have backset margins; the attic and
garret windows, the former constructed in
stone the latter in timber, have simple tri-
angular pediments. At attic floor level, circled
turrets with conical slated roofs project from |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 153.-Northfield (No. 159).
To face p. 104. |
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PRESTONPANS.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [PRESTONPANS.
the exterior angles and are borne in contin-
uous corbelling. The south entrance has a
moulded Renaissance architrave, cornice and
triangular pediment with flanking and central
finials. The architrave is inscribed "EXCEP .
THE . LORD . BVLD . INWANE . BVLDS . MAN."
The inscription is interrupted by a panel bear-
ing a shield charged per pale, a star below a
cushion in chief (for Marjoribanks), and a star
below three crescents on a chief (for Simpson).
Above the shield are the initials I M separated
by a star (Joseph Marjoribanks), on either side
of the shield are initials M S (M. Simpson) ;
below the shield is the date 1611.
The building measures 37 1/2 feet along the
west wall by 74 feet along the south wall,
and these walls vary from 2 1/2 feet to 4 feet in
thickness. The re-entering angle, lying to
the north, contains a comparatively modern
turret, within which is a geometrical stair ;
this turret probably replaced one earlier and
smaller containing a wheel stair with a solid
central newel. The original entrance was
through the turret but is now disused. The
eastward portion of the main wing has been
altered very shortly after completion to contain
the scale and platt stair and the south entrance.
The eastern windows and turrets do not line
with those on the west, but the architectural
detail throughout is identical; moreover while
there is a kitchen in the shorter wing a second
is formed in the addition. The rearrangement
of the east end with the transference of the
kitchen and the proportions of the two parts
of the building, suggest that there has been
a substantial extension or reconstruction to-
wards the east, but there is no evidence of
this in the actual building.
The south entrance admits to a small lobby,
from which a good scale staircase rises to the
first floor ; on the east of the lobby is the
later kitchen with a fireplace and oven in the
east gable. West of the lobby and entered from
it are two intercommunicating cellars, and the
western communicates with the shorter wing
through the well of the stair turret. The
kitchen and cellars have semicircular barrel
vaulted ceilings. The basement floor of the
short wing contains the earlier kitchen on the
north, with fireplace and presses in the north
gable and a slop drain adjoining ; en suite with
this is a second and smaller chamber on the
105
south. The upper floors are modernised. On
the first floor of the main wing there is a fine
painted ceiling of timber in the dining room
concealed by a modern plaster ceiling. The
upper landing of the staircase has a " honey-
comb " paving beneath the modern floor, and
the doorways opening off this landing have
moulded stone architraves.
The building is inhabited and is in good
preservation.
DOVECOT.-South-east of the mansion is its
dovecot, a contemporary structure circular on
plan.
SUNDIAL.-On a rockery in the garden is a
tablet-shaped sundial dated 1647 and in-
scribed with initials G.M. and M.R.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Joseph Marjoribanks,
an Edinburgh merchant, acquired lands and
houses on the south side of the vill of Salt-
Preston from George Hamilton portioner of
Salt-Preston, and a mansion and house with
a garden in the same place from George
Achesone another portioner and Barbara Con-
gleton his wife.1
1 R.M.S. s.a. No. 1637.
ix. N.W. 8 July 1914.
160. Dolphinston or Cowthrople.-About
150 yards south of the Edinburgh to Hadding-
ton high road and about 1 1/4 miles south-south-
west of Preston is a fragment of a dwelling
dating from the late 17th century. The struc-
ture has evidently been of considerable size with
its major axis lying east and west. Only a
portion of one wall remains, but this shows that
the basement apartments were covered with a
stone barrel vault and lit by narrow slits
5 inches wide and 2 feet high. The upper
floor windows were large, and their jambs
have back-set margins, indicating that the
building was roughcast. The ruin stands
within an area enclosed by a high wall appar-
ently contemporary, at the north side of
which is a circular Dovecot in three stages
51 feet in girth at the base.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In 1680 Richard Ward
(" Ricardus Waird ") was entered as heir of his
father of the same name in the barony of
Dolphinstoune, formerly called " Colthrople "
within the parish of Saltprestoune. Three
years later Elizabeth Ward appears as successor |
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[PRESTONPANS.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [SALTOUN.
to her brother Richard in the same property.
(Inquis. Spec. Hadd. Nos. 339, 346).
ix. S.W. (Edin. iv.A S.W.) 4 May 1914.
MISCELLANEOUS.
161. Preston Cross.-This monument which
date from the early 17th century stands with-
in an enclosure some 400 yards north-east of
Prestonpans station (Frontispiece). It con-
sists of a drum masonry, from which rises
an oval sectioned shaft surmounted by a
unicorn supporting a cartouche. The drum
measures 14 feet in diameter across the parapet
by 12 feet in height. It is divided vertically into
eight panels or compartments by pilasters,
above which a moulded architrave, frieze and
cornice return round the structure ; each
compartment contains a niche with a semi-
circular head ; two of the niches form doorways,
of which one leads to a small domically vaulted
chamber at ground level, while from the other
a narrow stair ascends to a platform at cornice
level within the parapet. The other niches are
semicircular on plan and are provided with
sills forming seats, the heads being enriched
to resemble a scallop shell.
A moulded base returns along the structure
at ground level ; the horizontal members all
return at the pilaster projections. The pilasters
have moulded capitals, and over each a moulded
waterspout projects from the frieze ; beneath
each spout the architrave is enriched with
guttæ.
The parapet encircles a walk or platform and
is provided with a socket above every pilaster
to hold a flagstaff. The shaft rises from a
plinth and has a moulded necking, above which
there is an acanthus ornament and a rect-
angular capital enriched with egg-and-dart
motif. The unicorn is crowned at the throat.
The cartouche bears the lion rampant.
The monument is in good preservation.
MOULDED AND CARVED DETAILS.-Some 30
feet to the east of the Cross is a circular sand-
stone shaft 2 feet 2 inches in diameter and 3 feet
in height, built in two stones. The upper por-
tion displays in relief at four points of the peri-
meter an oval above a wreath. The workman-
ship and design are crude.
The moulded circular base, 6 1/2 inches thick,
lies beside the shaft. The mouldings resemble
106
those of the base on the Cross and are probably
derived therefrom. The fragment dates from
the early 17th century.
ix. N.W. 18 June 1919.
SALTOUN.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
162. Chapel, Herdmanston.-Within the
grounds of Herdmanston House (No. 163)
on the south bank of the Tyne four miles
south-south-west of Haddington, is a vaulted
structure apparently the western portion of
a chapel (fig. 155). The building is oblong
and is orientated, measuring externally 36
feet 3 inches by 21 feet. A cross wall
footing within suggests the demarcation of the
sanctuary and that the structure was continued
farther eastwards, the
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 155.-Herdmanston
Chapel (No. 162).
east gable being com-
paratively modern.
Interiorly the structure
is 14 feet wide, 24 1/2 feet
long to the footing and
31 3/4 feet to the west
gable. A small window
in the west wall with a
daylight of 1 foot 10 inches has an obtusely
pointed head and interiorly a shouldered scoin-
son arch. A smaller window is set in the south
wall. A semicircular barrel vault with an
extreme height of 10 1/2 feet ceils the structure
and is covered with a wooden roof. The detail
of the west window suggests that the structure
belongs to the 13th century, but there are no
other features to corroborate this.
STOUP.-Against the north wall is a fine 12th
century stoup of freestone, originally engaged
and projecting from a wall. On four engaged
shafts, terminating in moulded bases of flat-
tened section, which follow the contour of the
shafts, is a block carved as a multi-cubical
capital with rectangular abacus ; the top
is hollowed into a basin 6 inches deep and
roughly circular in form with a diameter of
1 foot 2 inches. The shafts have projected 1
foot 4 inches from the wall face and are 6 inches
in diameter. The base is 7 inches high; above
this the shafts rise 1 foot 5 inches and terminate
at the necking of the capital. The total height
of the stoup is 2 feet 11 inches, and the dia- |
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SALTOUN.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [SALTOUN.
meter of the capital at the top of the abacus
is 1 foot 4 1/4 inches by 1 foot 5 inches.
MONUMENTAL SLABS.-Before the south
window are two monumental slabs : (1)
measures 5 feet 11 inches by 2 feet 3 inches ;
it bears a shield with the field recessed leaving
the charge, an engrailed cross (Sinclair) in
relief. The initials W S flank the shield.
Around the edge of the stone is inscribed
in Gothic lettering :
" HEIR LYIS YE RICHT HONORABIL
SCHIR WILLIAM SYNCLAR UMGLE
OF HERDMESTON KNYT QUHA
DECEISIT YE 2 OF JUNE ANNO 1594 "
Each angle is occupied by a square panel
recessed leaving in relief an engrailed cross.
(2) Measures 5 feet 10 inches by 2 feet 4
inches and has a shield bearing three cocks
and a crescent (Cockburn). On the top of the
shield is the letter D and on the dexter side the
initial S, on the sinister side the initial C.
Around the edges of the slab runs the legend in
Gothic characters :
" HEIR LYIS YE RICHT HONORABIL
DAME SIBILLA COKBURNE SPOUS
TO UMQLE SCHIR WILLIAM
SYNCLAR OF HIRDMESTOUN
KNYCHT "
The chapel is kept in good repair.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-This chapel was founded
at some date in the early 13th century by John
Sinclair of Herdmanston (cf. Introd. p. xx) with
a chaplain for the convenience of his family and
guests. Provision was made against any
possible loss in the way of gifts by the " mother
church " of Salton, which belonged to the
Abbey of Dryburgh ; the chaplain was made
subject to Salton Church, and the Abbey was
granted a small piece of land in consideration
of the concession.1
The chapel appears in deeds as " the chapel
of St. John the Evangelist near the castle " of
Herdmanston.
1 Reg. de Dryburgh, pp. 135-6 ; Inquisit.
Special. Hadd. Nos. 340, 388. Reg. Mag. Sig.
(1505) s.a.
ix. S.E. 28 August 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
163. Herdmanston House.-The south and
east wings of the mansion of Herdmanston have
been so modernised as to render the date of
107
their building unascertainable. Their dis-
position is L-shaped (fig. 156). The main block,
which contains vaulted chambers and, in the
north gable, a circular staircase, measures 67
feet by 26 3/4 feet, the wing 30 1/2 feet by 36 feet.
The plan and area of the structure suggest
its erection in the late 16th century, but this
date is to some extent discounted by the great
thickness of walling, which averages 7 feet and
so suggests a much earlier period. The strength
of the place is spoken of below. To the west
of the house is a wide semicircular arched
gateway with voussoirs and jamb-stones alter-
nately plain and rusticated. Over the key-
stone is a panel bearing a shield charged with
the engrailed
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 156.-Herdmanston (No. 163).
cross of the
Sinclairs ; be-
low the shield
are the initials
I S. This gate-
way dates from
the late 17th or
the early 18th
century. Beside
the stables to
the north-east
of the house is
another gateway of the same period, and
on the front of the stables is built a semi-
circular pediment which bears an eagle for
crest and mantling over two shields, each
charged with an engrailed cross. (Sinclair).
Flanking the shields are the initials S I S S M S
and the date 1647. On a scroll is the motto
INTAND TOY.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-On the St. Clairs of
Herdmanstoun see Introd. p. xx. In Feb.
1548 Lord Grey of Wilton reported to Somerset
that he had got into his hands with other
castles in the neighbourhood that of " Har-
myston . . which the Governor has afore time
besieged with great ordnance, and not won-
and is so strong that my servant Captain
Bagshott, will take in hand to hold it against
all Scotland."1 A John Sinclair was heir-
apparent of Herdmaurton in 1638.2
1 Scottish Papers i., p. 81, No. 168 ; 2 Reg.
Mag Sig. s.a., No. 1638.
ix. S.E. 28 August 1913. |
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[Marginal note]
Long cists (? Early Xtions) found in the Burial Knowe, nietors of Salton, see Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot., vol. III. pp. 503-6.
See No. 143.
SALTOUN.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [SPOTT.
164. Salton Hall.-Salton Hall stands one
mile north of Salton station, on the right bank
of the winding Birns Water, above its con-
fluence with the Tyne. It is a large and im-
posing mansion in the Tudor style of last
century, but there is an earlier nucleus over-
laid and obscured by the modern work, and this
goes back at least as far as the early 17th
century. This portion is the part on the west
which crests the steep bank. It is now
four storeys in height and has been refaced and
otherwise modernised, but the basement still
retains in parts its stone vaulted ceilings.
DOVECOT.-On the opposite bank of the
river there is a dovecot, which is apparently a
late 18th century structure but may not be
much older than the modern portion of the
house. Externally it is square, but it is circled
internally and the nests are of stone. It is
treated in a free rendering of the Classic style.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Salton in the 12th cen-
tury formed part of the great possessions of
the De Morevilles, hereditary Constables
of Scotland. About 1295 it was held by
William of Abernethy,1 and in 1483 all the
lands of this family were erected, in favour of
William Lord Abernethy " in Rothemay "
(Banffshire) into the free barony of Salton.2
The laird of Salton in 1547 was pro-English
and was one of the Lothian lairds who had
placed his house in " our auld ynemeis hands,"
for which reason, and because no one would
undertake to hold the place against the English
invaders, the Privy Council ordered the de-
struction of it as it then stood.3 But in
February 1548 Salton was one of the strengths
occupied by the English.4 In 1643 the lands
and barony of Salton with tower, manor place,
etc. were sold to Sir Andrew Fletcher of Inver-
peffer,5 who, as a judge of Session, became
Lord Innerpeffer. In 1650 Sir Robert Fletcher
of " Innerpeffer " was served heir to his father
Sir Andrew Fletcher of " Innerpeffer " in the
lands and barony of Salton.6
1 Reg. de Dryburgh No. 304 ; 2 Reg. Mag.
Sig. ii., No. 1534 ; 3 Reg. P.C. i., p. 82 ;
4 Scot. Pap. i., No. 168 ; 5 R.M.S. s.a. No.
1388 ; 6 Inquisit. Spec. Hadd. No. 222.
xiv. N.E. 25 June 1920.
108
MISCELLANEOUS.
165. Saltoun Mill.-A quarter of a mile
north-east of Salton station is Saltoun Mill,
where pot barley was first prepared in Scotland.
The mill is still in use. It is an oblong three
storeyed structure of the late 17th century,
built of rubble which was harled, as the
backset margins of the voids testify. The
wheel is of timber and is overshot. At the
south-west angle of the building there is a
plain two-faced " tablet " sundial of about the
same period.
xiv. N.E. 25 June 1920.
SPOTT.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
166. Fort, Doon Hill.-On the shoulder of
the hill about 110 yards west of, and some 15
feet lower than, the summit of Doon Hill,
which rises 582 feet above sea-level are
the badly mutilated remains of a fort, oval in
outline, of which the longer axis runs east-
north-east and west-south-west, and which
measures internally some 392 feet in length by
222 feet in breadth. On the northern
flank the slope of the hill is steep from the
inner rampart, but on the opposite flank the
ground slopes gradually for some 50 yards and
then falls away in a stiff brae. Through
cultivation a large portion of the defences
has been obliterated. The inner rampart, now
distributed over a width of 32 feet and reduced
to a height of barely 2 feet at the east-north-
eastern end, the best preserved part, is almost
obliterated on the flanks. An outer rampart of
about the same dimensions can be traced only
round the east-north-eastern end and for some
distance along the southern side. The distance
between the ramparts at this end is 34 feet but
widens on the southern flank. This outer
defence takes the form of a scarp at the
west-south-western end, 124 feet distant from
the inner rampart and 15 feet lower. The
entrance has been at the north-west and is now
30 feet wide.
xii. N.W. 25 June 1913.
167. Hill Fort, The Chesters.-This fort,
known as " The Chesters," is situated at an |
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SPOTT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [SPOTT.
elevation of 600 feet above sea-level, on the
summit of a hill on Spott Farm. To the west
the hill slopes away suddenly, but round the
other sides the ground is undulating, and the
whole area has long been under regular cul-
tivation. The fort, which is circular with an
internal diameter of some 352 feet, is defended
by two concentric earthen ramparts 80 feet
apart from crest to crest. Both the ramparts
have been considerably widened by agricultural
operations, and, towards the south-east, the
inner rampart is now some 60 feet broad, rising
4 1/2 feet on the inside and 7 1/2 feet on the outside,
while the outer rampart is 45 feet broad, 3 feet
high on the inside and 4 1/2 feet high on the
outside. Between the ramparts there has been
an excavated ditch more than 30 feet broad, the
bottom of which is now only 1 foot below the
natural level of the ground. On the north-
western arc, where there is a steep slope, the
top of the inner rampart is 20 feet higher than
the outer, which has been reduced to a mere
scarp by the plough. There are three broad
entrances, some 24 feet wide, through the
inner rampart ; the first, to the east-south-east,
shows a gap in the outer rampart, while the in-
termediate ditch at this part has not been ex-
cavated and so provides a roadway ; the
second, to the west, shows evidence of having
a corresponding gap in the outer rampart ; but
there is no opening in the outer defence oppo-
site the gap on the north-west of the inner line.
xi. N.E. 25 June 1913.
HUT CIRCLES AND CAIRNS.
168. Hut Circle and Cairns, Dunbar Com-
mon.-On the moor a short distance south
of the summit of Lothian Edge, which
forms the northern boundary of the Dunbar
Common, and about half a mile west of the
cart track to Friardykes, at an elevation
of between 1000 and 1100 feet above sea-
level, is a group of three cairns and a
hut circle. The hut circle, which is slightly
hollow in the centre, is very indistinct but
measures 15 feet in diameter internally. About
100 yards to the south-west are the remains
of what looks like a pillaged cairn, 12 feet wide.
Stones from it have been used to form an
erection, now broken down, on the summit.
Some 40 yards to south-west of the latter is
109
a second cairn 12 feet in diameter and rising
1 1/2 feet in height. Almost on the summit of
the slope, about 200 yards north-east of the
hut circle, is the third cairn, 9 feet in diameter
and rising only 6 inches above the surrounding
level. On the top are many loose stones, which
measure up to 14 inches in length.
xi. S.E. (unnoted) 17 June 1913.
169. Hut Circle and Cairns, Elsie Cleuch
Rig, Caldercleuch.-On a gently sloping
ridge, known as Elsie Cleuch Rig, running down
towards the east from Spartleton, some 50
yards from the top of the steep brae on the
western bank of Bothwell Water and some 350
yards south-west of Caldercleugh, at an ele-
vation of 900 feet above sea-level, is a hut
circle, difficult to detect among the heather but
measuring 15 feet in diameter internally and
9 inches in depth. Some 80 yards to the north-
east is a cairn, 26 feet in diameter and 2 1/2 feet
in height, which has been excavated on the
south-western side. About 20 yards south-
south-east of the hut circle is a stony mound
covered with grass, 12 feet in diameter and
9 inches in height, which is slightly hollow in
the centre. It is impossible to say definitely
whether the last is a cairn or a hut circle
but the former is more probable.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted) 14 June 1913.
170. Cairn, Watch Law, Dunbar Common.-
About 60 yards south-south-west of the hillock
known as Watch Law, and immediately to the
west of the cart track to Friardykes, and 1 3/8
miles to the north by west of the latter place, is
a cairn, 20 feet in diameter and 1 1/2 feet in
height. It stands at an elevation of 1150 feet
above sea-level.
xi. S.E. 17 June 1913.
171. Hut Circle, Birk Cleuch Hill, Calder-
cleuch.-About 600 yards south-east of
Caldercleugh house, on the north-eastern slope
of Birk Cleuch Hill, about 50 yards to the south
of Elsie Cleuch and some 150 yards west of the
Bothwell Water, at an elevation of 900 feet
above sea-level, is a hut circle, of which the
diameter is 21 feet within a wall 4 feet broad
and rising 6 inches above the surrounding level. |
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SPOTT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [SPOTT.
The wall on the southern or higher arc is of
earth, but on the opposite and lower side there
is an irregular mound containing a quantity
of stones.
xvii. N.W. (unnoted). 30 June 1913.
STONE CIRCLE.
172. Stone Circle, Zadlee.-On the gentle
slope of Stonefold Rig on the eastern side of
Spartleton Edge, some 300 yards south by east
[marginal note]
Yadlee
of Zadlee and at an elevation of about 950 feet
above sea-level, is a circle of seven small
stones, measuring from 10 inches to 16 inches
across, set on edge or on end, except one which
is now flat (fig. 157). None is more than 8
inches above ground. The flat stone is the
largest and measures 22 inches in length by
13 inches in breadth.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 157.-Circle, Zadlee
(No. 172).
The circle, which has a
diameter of 27 feet,
seems complete, except
on the northern arc,
where there may have
been one stone more.
The interior of the circle
is on the same level as
the surroundings, and
numerous stones are
met with on probing.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 1 July 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
173. Pulpit.-Within the modern parish
church is a good pulpit of apparently early 18th
century workmanship. It is hexagonal on
plan and measures internally 3 feet 10 inches by
3 feet by 3 feet high. On each side is a panel,
stuck moulded and fielded; the back board, 3
feet 4 1/2 inches high, has a panel with an ogival
head and is flanked by Corinthian pillars with
fluted shafts, that support the sounding board,
which is very daintily moulded and gracefully
enriched in accord with the pillars.
xii. N.W. 29 August 1913.
174. Standing Stone with Cup Marks, Easter
Broomhouse.-Some 200 yards south-south-
west of Easter Broomhouse, on the summit of
a broad ridge about 150 above sea-level,
110
is a fine monolith of red sandstone measuring
9 feet in height and 6 feet in girth at the foot.
It is roughly rectangular on plan at the base,
the eastern and western faces being 22 inches
broad. At a height of 4 feet it is almost square,
having become narrower on the eastern and
western sides and broader on the northern and
southern ends. The top slants about 2 feet
to the east beyond the base. On the western
side are three cup marks, 3 1/2 inches in width
and 3/4 inch deep, placed triangularly but
inverted. The two upper cups are 5 1/2 inches
apart, and the lower cup, which is 5 feet from
the ground, is 11 inches from the upper left
hand cup and 12 1/2 inches from the right hand
cup. The deep grooves cut on the stone near
the base were made by the wire cable of a
steam plough rubbing against it.
vii. S.W. 25 June 1913.
175. The Witch's Stone.-A rough block of
stone about 22 inches across both ways but
almost entirely covered with road scrapings,
lies at the root of the hedge on the southern side
of the road some 3/8 mile south-west of Spott
Church and 90 yards north-east of the junction
of the road to Little Spott. This stone is
placed near the spot where Marion Lillie the
Ringwoodie Witch was burnt. At the western
corner of the junction of the road to Little
Spott stands the Birley Tree, an ash tree,
12 feet 4 inches in girth 6 feet from the ground,
which marks the place where the Birley Courts
were held in olden days.
xii. N.W. (" Witch's Stone "). 25 June 1913
176. Burial Ground of Covenanters.-About
80 years ago, while foundations were being pre-
pared for the old hot-houses in Spott House
gardens, the skeletal remains of a number of
men with fragments of their accoutrements,
including broken swords and buttons, were
found, no doubt relics of some of the Cove-
nanters who fell at the battle of Dunbar. All
the remains were re-interred in the Kirkyard
of Spott, 26 feet from the north-eastern corner
of the church and some 5 or 6 feet east of the
line of the wall of the church.
xii. N.W. 25 June 1913. |
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STENTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [STENTON.
177. St. John's Well, Spott.-The O.S. map
indicates this well to the west of the Church
at Spott.
xii. N.W.
SITES.
The O.S. Map indicates the following sites:-
178. Fort, 600 yards S.S.E. of the Black Loch.
xi. N.E.
179. Fort, Home Farm, Spott. Defences
entirely obliterated. xii. N.W.
STENTON.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
180. Old Parish Church, Stenton.-The ruin
of the old parish church lies within the church-
yard adjoining the modern church in the
village of Stenton. It is an oblong structure
(fig. 158) built of local rubble roughly coursed
and measures internally
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 158.-Stenton
Church (No. 180).
63 feet along the incom-
plete east and west walls
and 18 feet from north to
south ; the highest portion
of walling standing is the
south wall, which in parts
is some 8 feet in height.
On the north there projects
a small sacristy, 12 feet
by 18 1/4 feet, now occupied as the burial place
of the Sydserffs of Ruchlaw.
At the western end of the church, but not
centering with it, there is a tower (fig. 25) of two
tiers, square on plan, which is complete, well
preserved and is used as a dovecot. It is built
of the same rubble as the church but in more
regular course with long and short quoins.
The tower appears to be a structure of the
16th century, to which period the church also
may be assigned.
The church is entered from the south by a
doorway with a segmental head in two orders
each moulded with a quirked edge roll. The
jambs are of similar section and have splayed
stops and rudimentary capitals following the
plan of the mouldings above and below. A
window west of the doorway has a splayed and
111
backset margin of later date than the doorway.
The tower contains three storeys, all un-
vaulted, the two lower of which have communi-
cated with the church. It is entered by a
doorway in the south wall, which has splayed
jambs and lintel ; communication between the
floors has been by a ladder. The upper
portion of the walls is intaken, where a splayed
offset course returns horizontally. The upper
storey is lit by a round-headed window in
each wall with deeply splayed jambs. The
gables are crowstepped, and the roof is of wood
covered with slates. There was a gallery in
the west end entered from a fore-stair.
FONT.-There is a circular font at the
eastern end of the church, which is now used as
a receptacle for plants. The external diameter
is 2 feet 7 inches, the total height 2 feet 1 inch,
and it has a lip on the exterior rim to receive
a leaden lining. It is illustrated and described
in Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxi., p. 357.
CROSS SOCKET.-Beside the font is a stone,
gabletted on each face and mortised on the
upper surface to receive a small cross shaft,
which is evidently the termination of a pinnacle
or the apex of the east gable. It appears
to be earlier than any portion of the present
church and dates probably from the late 13th
or early 14th century.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The parish was of old
known as Pitcox or " Pitcokis," and the
parish church was at the village of that name
a little over a mile to the north-east, where
now only the site of the old church is known,
Pitcox was a prebend in the collegiate church
of Dunbar.1 The parish church was trans-
ferred to its present position in 1561.2
1 Act. Parl. Scot. iv., p. 294 ; 2 Fasti Eccles.
Scot. (new edit.), i., p. 420.
xi. N.E. 1 September 1915.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURE.
181. Gamelshiel Castle.-The ruin of this
building is situated 1/2 mile north of Millknowe
Farm, on the left bank of the Hall Burn.
The site is level, and the portions of building
upon it consist of parts of the north and
south walls of a small tower. The external
width of the structure is 22 feet 6 inches ; its
length is indeterminable. The walls now |
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STENTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [STENTON.
standing are 20 feet high and some 4 feet thick,
built mainly of whinstone in narrow courses.
The basement floor has been vaulted.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In 1505 John Forrest
succeeded his father John Forrest in the lands
of ' Gamelshields '1 But in 1679 James Home
entered upon the lands of Wester ' Gamel-
shields ' as heir to his father George Home of
' Gamelshields.'2 The superior of the lands was
Hepburn of Hailes.3
1 Inquisit. Spec. Hadd. No. 392 ; 2 Ibid.
No. 344 ; 3 R.M.S. s.a. 1451, No. 513.
xvi. S.E. 6 June 1913.
CAIRNS.
182. Cairn, Summerhill, Millknowe.-Round
the brow of Summerhill, which lies between
Gamelshiel Castle and the new bridge over the
Whitadder near Kingside School, at an ele-
vation of 900 to 1000 feet above sea-level, is
an earthen wall 5 feet wide at base and 1 1/2 feet
in height, which encloses an area some 200
yards in diameter. There is no ditch, and
probably the enclosure was a cattle-fold used
for penning up cattle and sheep during the
night, when being droved along the pass
through the Lammermuirs which follows the
Whitadder Water.
Just within the south-western arc of the
enclosure, at an elevation of 950 feet above
sea-level, on the steep slope of the hill over-
looking the river, is a cairn of stones 14 feet in
diameter and rising 1 foot in height at the
centre.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 6 June 1913.
183. Cairn, Spartleton.-On the summit of
Spartleton, at a height of over 1500 feet above
sea-level, is a cairn of stones, 50 feet in diameter
and rising 3 1/2 feet in height at the centre. On
the top an observation cairn has been erected
out of the material of the original structure,
but probably the central portion of the cairn
has not been disturbed. Spurs of stone project
from the base of the cairn towards the cardinal
points of the compass, but these have un-
doubtedly been fashioned in modern times.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
112
HUT CIRCLES.
184. Hut Circles, Snailscluch.-Some 400
yards north of Friars Nose Fort (No. 219), on
the opposite side or left bank of the Whitadder,
is a fine group of stone-walled hut circles (fig.
159) occupying the summit of a broad slope,
immediately east of Snailscleuch, at an ele-
vation of 800 feet above sea-level and about
100 feet above the Whitadder. The chief
features of this group are two large irregular
areas impinging on each other, both surrounded
by a stone wall 1 foot high on the outside and
deeply excavated in the interior. The larger
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 159.-Structures, Snailscleuch (No. 184).
area measures over the outside about 55 feet
from north-west to south-east and about 80
feet from north-east to south-west, and in
places the wall rises nearly 3 feet above the
lowest part of the interior. It contains at least
four hut circles on the inside of the western
segment of the enclosing wall and a fifth near
the centre, each about 11 feet in diameter
internally. The smaller of the two large en-
closures lies to the south-east of the larger
and measures some 66 feet from east to west
over the exterior and some 61 feet from north to
south and is about 5 feet deep in the inside. A
large portion of this enclosure is obscured by |
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STENTON.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [STENTON.
heaps of stones, but there seem to have been
at least two hut circles against the interior of
the wall to the north-west and one to the north-
east. Outside the northern section of the
larger area are three hut circles ; the first,
with an internal diameter of 12 feet and a
stone wall 2 1/2 feet thick, impinges on the north-
eastern arc ; the second, some 22 feet to the
north-east, and the third, some 21 feet to the
north-west, have each an internal diameter of
9 feet and a wall of 2 1/2 feet thickness. About
28 feet north by west of the second of these
circles is a circular excavated hollow about
10 feet in diameter. Some 43 feet east of the
smaller of the two larger areas is a hut circle
with an internal diameter of 9 feet surrounded
by a stone wall, from whose northern and
southern arcs a wall seems to curve a few
yards to the east as if to enclose a circular
annexe. In the angle between the large en-
closures on their east side are two hut circles 9
feet in diameter. About 34 feet south-west of
the smaller of the two chief constructions are
the faint traces of two impinging hut circles,
respectively 25 and 12 feet in diameter within
walls 2 1/2 feet thick and 9 inches to 1 foot in
height. Running eastward from these the in-
distinct foundations of a stone wall can be
traced for 60 feet, when it turns at right angles
towards the north.
A second group of hut circles occurs about 60
yards north of the above group. It shows a
large irregularly shaped enclosure with a much
dilapidated wall and measures about 45 feet
from east to west and 43 feet from north to
south. There seem to have been entrances from
the east and the north. There are six hut
circles in its immediate vicinity. The first,
impinging on the outside, at the north-west of
the wall, is about 12 feet in diameter ; the
second, impinging on the south-western corner
is a finely preserved example, being 15 feet in
diameter internally with a wall 3 feet thick and
1 1/2 feet high, but no entrance can be traced ;
the third, which lies about 40 feet to the
north-west is 7 feet in diameter internally ;
the fourth, which lies about 25 feet farther to
the north-west, shows the half of a circle about
20 feet in diameter ; the fifth, 40 feet to the
east of the central structure, is some 19 feet
in diameter internally and has a curved
bank of stone and earth springing from its
113
western arc and covering the entrance ; and
the sixth, some 28 feet to the north-east of
the last, is 12 feet in diameter in the inside.
The slope on which the hut circles are built
is bordered on the west and south by steep
declivities falling more than 50 feet. But to
the north and east slight walls of earth and
stone have been thrown up enclosing an area
of over 400 yards from north to south and
nearly 300 yards from east to west. Starting
from the edge of Snailscleuch a wall, now about
10 feet wide in places and rising 1 foot in height,
is carried to the south-east a distance of some
220 yards, where it seems to turn south and
can only be traced at intervals. About 40
yards to the east of this wall, after it turns
south, a similar wall can be traced running
parallel for some distance. These walls have
not been built in a straight line. Several heaps
of stones in the vicinity of the walls on the
east, varying in diameter from 12 feet to
20 feet, resemble cairns. A large part of the
area is covered by a rank growth of heather
and bracken, which obscures many of the
structures. Excavation would probably dis-
close many features which are not noted.
See Berwickshire Nat. Club. vol. xxi., p. 200.
xvi. S.E. 2 July 1913.
STONE CIRCLE.
185. Stone Circle, Spartleton Edge.-Near
the summit of the ridge known as Spartleton
Edge, 300 yards east of the old Herring Road
track and about 1 1/8 miles north-east of Johns-
cleuch, at an elevation of 1000 feet above sea-
level, is a circle 42 feet in diameter composed of
seven small stones peeping through the peat
and heather, while other two are to be found
by probing 2 to 4 inches under the surface.
Of the stones seen above ground five are
pointed and measure only 4 to 6 inches across,
while the other two, which are flat, measure
1 foot and 9 inches in breadth respectively.
There are traces of an earthen wall, with a
good many small stones in places, thrown upon
the line of the circle. The interior of the circle
has been disturbed. Within the circle a stone,
2 feet 6 inches in height, 2 feet 2 inches broad
at the base, and 4 inches thick, was set up
recently by a local shepherd. On Farmer's
8
[Stamp]
Royal Commn
Anc.Mons.Scot. |
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STENTON.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
Map, dated 1748, a standing stone is noted
near this spot.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
186. Well of the Holy Rood.-By the road-
side, rather less than 300 yards north-east of
Stenton old parish church, is a construction
housing the well. On plan the building is
circular with an internal diameter of 3 feet
10 inches ; the wall is 10 inches thick and has
a height of 5 feet 4 inches ; the doorway
measures 4 feet by 2 feet. The structure is
covered with a conical roof of overlapping
stone slabs, which is surmounted at the apex
by a crocketted finial with a cabled necking.
The well is fully described and illustrated
in Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. 1882-83 xvii., p. 167.
xi. N.E. (" Rood Well ") 10 July 1920.
SITES.
187. Supposed Site of Church.-About 180
yards north-west of the new bridge over the
Whitadder at Friar's Crook, on a small levelled
area on the edge of an escarpment rising some
20 feet from the haugh on the left bank of
the Whitadder, which flows 100 yards distant,
are the indeterminate foundations of a building
55 feet long by 25 feet broad, the major axis
being north-west and south-east.
xvi. S.E. 6 June 1913.
188. Cairn (site of) " Fairy Knowe," Meikle-
rig.-About 150 yards west of Newbarns,
in the Roodwell Park, a field on the farm of
Meiklerig, at an elevation of about 300 feet above
sea-level stood a cairn, some 40 feet in circum-
ference, which was known by the name of
the Fairy Knowe. It was excavated in 1877
and two short cists were discovered, one
containing a cinerary urn and incinerated
remains, and the other a flint knife and a
whetstone along with burnt bones.1
1 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xiv., p. 220.
xi. N.E. 20 June 1913.
[marginal note]
Early Xtions (?) cemetery
at Stenton , see Turner,
Croniology of Scotland,
pt.ii , p. 230.
The O.S. map indicates the following site:-
189. Pitcox Church and Graveyard, Pitcox.
xi. N.E.
114
TRANENT.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
190. Parish Church, Tranent.-The parish
church was erected in 18001 on the foundations
of apparently a late 15th century church with
transepts and central tower, a description of
which is given in the Statistical Account, vol.
x., pp. 88-9. The remains of the priest's door,
which has moulded jambs, and the lower
courses of pre-Reformation walling are seen
in the south wall of the present building.
Similar walling is found in the west gable,
and two pre-Reformation buttresses occur at
the west end of the north wall. This pre-
Reformation church belonged to Holyrood
Abbey, having been originally granted to it
c. 1150 by Thor son of Swain, upon which
connection see Historical Note. The parish
then included Prestonpans.
The ruined mortuary aisle of the Cadells of
Cockenzie, which projects from the north wall,
has a two-light window with circled heads,
which may date from the 16th century ; the
window is now built up.
SEPULCHRAL MONUMENTS.-The church-yard
is unusually rich in sepulchral monuments.
These are described in Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot.
vols. xlv.-xlvi. (1) The most interesting me-
morial is probably that of Alexander Craufurd
a former priest of Tranent, who died c. 1489.
It is a recumbent slab now lying south of the
church, is 3 inches thick, 4 feet 1 inch
broad and has a present length of 7 feet
4 inches. A marginal inscription in Gothic
lettering reads:-
ALEXANDER : CRAUFORD : QUONDAM :
VICARIUS : DE : TRANENT : QUI : OBIIT :
DIE : MENSIS : DECBR : AN : - - - -
An Alexander Craufurd was Clerk of the
Chapel Royal towards the close of the 15th
century (ibid. xlvi., p. 141). The panel
bordered by the inscription contains a cross
set on a graded base of four steps ; the arms
have ended in trefoils. From top to foot of
base the cross measures 4 feet 10 inches.
On the dexter side of the cross a late form of
chalice, 1 foot 8 inches long, is incised, and on
the sinister is a shield bearing within a bordure
a fess ermine (Craufurd). On the chief in
Lombardic lettering are the initials A and C
flanking a star. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 160.-Collegiate Church, Seton, from the South (No. 191).
To face p. 115. |
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TRANENT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TRANENT.
(2) A recumbent slab of the 16th century
now lying in the lower portion of the grave-
yard bears a shield charged with a lion rampant
apparently surmounting a baton (? for Fer-
guson). Flanking the shield are initials A F
and I C.
(3) On the exterior of the north wall of the
church is a moulded panel, within which,
beneath a helmet and mantling, is a shield
charged with a fess between three roundels
(bezants). " John Fawside of that ilk " is
inscribed on a label below.
(4) The 18th century memorials are heavily
and elaborately carved, the Scott and Seton
table-stones being specially noteworthy.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The pre-Reformation
church of " Travernent " or Tranent belonged
to Holyrood Abbey, having been granted to it
c. 1150 by Thor, son of Swain, who, as Thor of
Travernent or Trevernent, is a witness to
several charters by David I. Thor's ancestors
had already been benefactors to the church,
apparently its founders, and Thor himself
added two houses and two tofts. The grant
was confirmed by Richard, the contemporary
bishop of St. Andrews, Tranent being in that
diocese, and was repeated by Malcolm IV.
(1153-65), subject to the rights of Walerannus
the chaplain, whose tenure was to continue
till his death. Travernent subsequently (temp.
King William) became the property of the
De Quinceys. The vicarage was rated for
episcopal taxation at £12 (St. Cuthbert's Edin-
burgh at 20 merks) in addition to an assessment
of the alter offerings. In 1250 Roger de
[marginal note]
[?]
Quincey, Earl of Winton, exempted the Abbey
and its tenants in Preston and the grain of
Preston due to the church of Tranent from
multure to his mill at Tranent.2
In 1633 the church was annexed as a prebend
to the new bishopric of Edinburgh3 but, on the
dissolution of the bishopric, reverted to its
purely parochial status.
1 New. Stat. Acct. ii., p. 300 ; 2 Munimenta
Sanctæ Crucis, passim ; 3 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a.
No. 2225.
ix. N.W. 6 April 1920.
191. Collegiate Church, Seton.-Within the
grounds of Seton House, a modern mansion
built on the site of the 16th century palace of
115
George, fourth Lord Seton, 2 miles east-north-
east of Prestonpans, is an interesting and
unusually complete example, as far as it goes,
of 15th century Scottish ecclesiastical archi-
tecture-the Collegiate Church of Seton (fig.
160). The church, which was dedicated in the
names of St. Mary and the Holy Cross, was
laid out with choir, transepts and nave, but
the last division, as in several other instances,
has not been built (fig. 161). The crossing
is surmounted by a square tower termin-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 161.-Collegiate Church, Seton (No. 191).
ating in a truncated broach spire, a type
of spire not usually found in Scotland. From
the north wall of the choir there projects an
oblong revestry. The tuskings for the lateral
walls of the nave and the weather table for its
roof can be seen on the west face of the tower ;
the other divisions of the church are entire and
in an excellent state of preservation, the late
proprietor having in 1878 reserved the fabric
to be the burial place of his family. Although
the structure is homogeneous in design, the
various divisions were manifestly not built at
one time.
The site was originally occupied by a parish
church. To this building Catherine Sinclair of
" Hermandston," widow of William, first Lord
Seton who died c. 1409, added a south aisle.
Her grandson George, third Lord Seton, who
died c. 1478, built the present choir and |
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TRANENT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
apparently roofed the eastern rib vaulted
portion (" biggit the queir of Seytoun, and
pendit it sa fer as it is, with rymbraces.")3 His
son, George, fourth Lord Seton, who died in
1508, completed the vaulting of the choir
(" pendit the quier from the rymbrasis but")†
built the vestry (" revestré ") or sacristry,
vaulting and roofing it with stone,3 and rendered
the establishment collegiate c. 1493. George
fifth Lord, who fell at Flodden 1513, covered
the choir roof with stone slabs, provided the
choir with glazed windows (" glaising windois"),
paved it and furnished it with stalls ("daskis")
and " cylerings* above the alter." His work
was continued by his widow Lady Janet
Hepburn, who died in 1558. She built the
north cross aisle, removed Lady Catherine Sin-
clair's south aisle because the side of it was
parallel with the side of the church, and re-
built it in correspondence with the north aisle
" to make it ane perfyt and proportionat croce
kirk." She likewise built the steeple, which she
did not quite finish, and it remains incomplete
to this day. In the vestry she had a loft
inserted with locked cupboards, and, founding
two prebendaries, built " thair chalmaris upon
voltis " (i.e. over vaults).
The choir has a three-sided apsidal eastern
termination with buttresses projecting diagon-
ally from the angles and rectangularly from
the south wall. The transepts have buttresses
projecting diagonally from the corners of the
gables and rectangularly from the east and west
walls. The buttresses have moulded and
weathered set-offs and have terminated in
crocketed pinnacles, one of which remains in
situ at the north-east angle of the north
transept ; all, save one on the east wall of the
south transept, have elaborately canopied
niches with moulded bases displaying such
devices as the emblems of the Passion, the
Seton arms, those of Seton impaled with
Murray, and divers foliaceous designs. Around
the whole structure there returns a splayed
basement course with an additional projecting
upper member round the choir and sacristy.
A string course returns round the choir at
the level of the window sills ; at the same
level on the north transept there returns
† " but " as in " but and ben " ; the eastern
completed portion was " ben."
* i.e. a canopy, usually in Scots as " sylure."
116
a hollowed string course. At eaves level
there is a cavetto cornice, of earlier section
round the choir and sacristry than round
the transepts, which is enriched with pateræ
save on the east wall of the south transept.
The pateræ of the cornice of sacristy and choir
are floral, while those of the transepts take the
form of grotesques, or are shield shaped, or
foliaceous. The choir has a slated roof re-
placing the 5th Lord Seton's original stone
flags, which covered this roof similarly to the
roofs of the transepts and sacristry.
The choir has an external doorway, which is
now built up, in the central bay of the south
wall (fig. 163). This has a semicircular head
wrought with filleted rolls and flanking hollows,
which are continued down the jambs and ter-
minate in moulded bell-shaped bases. The
projecting label is undercut and terminates in
stops carved respectively with a foliaceous and
a zoömorphic motif. Above the doorway is a
panel, very decayed, within an enriched
marginal border, bearing a crest, helm and
mantling over a canted shield supported by
two animals. On either side of the crest is a
diminutive shield. The arms on these and on
the main escutcheon are illegible.*
The choir windows are of two and three
lights with splayed jambs and pointed heads ;
the infilling of tracery is modern but repeats
the old design. The eastern walls of the
transepts are blank, in accordance with
Scottish custom (cf. Art. No. 68), but the
gables are pierced by large windows. These
have pointed heads, and their central mullion
is built in courses and bifurcates above the
springing level ; the compartments thus formed
are filled with smaller tracery, modern but in
keeping with the windows. The windows to
the west are of three lights and resemble
those of the choir.
The church is now entered through the
western arch of the crossing. The north,
south and west arches and piers of the crossing
are similar in section and are coarser and
heavier than those of the earlier eastern arch.
The piers of the latter have slighter bases and
terminate in rather delicately carved foliaceous
capitals in contrast with the coarser vine, palm
leaf and thistle motifs employed on the other
pier capitals. The choir is 54 feet long and
* But cf. Family of Seton ii. p. 784. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 162.-Choir Vault.
FIG. 163.-South Wall of Choir.
COLLEGIATE CHURCH, SETON (No. 191).
To face p. 116. |
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TRANENT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TRANENT.
22 feet wide and is ceiled, like the transepts,
with a high pointed barrel vault, the eastern
portion of which is enriched with moulded ribs
springing from corbels carved with grotesques
and foliaceous work ; the three eastern cells
are true rib vaults (fig. 162). The eastern
vaulting boss bears a shield charged with the
royal arms of Scotland. The third boss from
the east also bears a shield, charged apparently
with three stars in chief and a star in fess,
all within a tressure (? Murray). On either
side of the east window there is a moulded
corbel to bear the effigy of a saint. These
corbels have shields displaying three crescents
within a double tressure flory-counter-flory for
Seton.
Around the lateral walls and also round the
apsidal end-which is more unusual-there has
been stone seat. The piscina at the east end
of the south wall (fig. 28) is a fine specimen of
15th century design and is complete, except for
the top course. The basin partly projects and is
partly recessed within a niche covered by a
gabletted, pinnacled and embattled canopy
terminating in a crocketed pyramidal top.
The outer surface of the basin is moulded and
carved with foliaceous enrichment ; on either
side of the niche is a diminutive buttress with
carved enrichment. Adjoining the piscina in
the same wall and at an unusual height is a
sedilia with a three-centred arched head. On
the jambs are clustered shafts with moulded
capitals and moulded bell shaped bases. The
shafts and hollows of the jambs are continued
round the head as roll-and-hollow mouldings.
The south doorway internally has a three-
centred arched head, on which is a filleted edge-
roll, also continued down the jamb. Beneath
the east window of the north wall there is a
15th century tomb recess (fig. 5), which has a
moulded shelf and segmental head with roll-
and-hollow mouldings and one band of folia-
ceous enrcihment ; on either side is a buttress
with moulded base, string and intakes and
terminating in a gableted and crocketed top.
On the shelf are two recumbent effigies. The
male figure is bareheaded save for an enriched
orle around the brows and over the close
cropped and conventionally waved hair. The
head rests on a folded rug or perhaps a helmet
also enriched, as at Borthwick. The body is
clad in plate armour with laminated epaulieres,
117
brassarts and coudiéres. Beneath the breast-
plate can be seen a hausse-col or standard of
mail round the throat, and round the hips are
six rows of tasses, at the lower edge of which
can be seen a skirt of chain mail. The legs
are clad in jointed keel-shaped jambards of
mail with laminated genouilliéres or knee
pieces. The feet are clad in laminated sollerets
and rest on the back of an animal like a lion
couchant but with a human face. The hands
are folded on the breast in prayer over an
object, possibly a reliquary, which has been
coloured in green or blue paint, and is sus-
pended from a chain hanging round the
shoulders. From a richly ornamented hip belt
is suspended on the right a misericorde and
on the left the sword.
The female figure is clad in a high-necked
undergarment embroidered round the throat
and with tight and embroidered wristbands,
which have been gilt. Above this is a wide
sleeved mantle, silk-lined, falling in folds and
concealing the feet. Round the waist is an
embroidered girdle knotted at the foot. The
arms are folded in prayer on the bosom. The
head has a band of embroidered ribbon round
the brows and jaw with a pearled cap and
veil falling to the shoulders.
West of the tomb is the entrance to the
revestry or sacristry, a two storeyed chamber
(cf. p. 116), the upper floor of which is ceiled
with a pointed barrel vault and has been
reached by a ladder from the ground floor.
The entrance doorway has a semicircular head
with filleted rolls and flanking hollows wrought
on the archivolt and continued down the jambs
to bell-shaped moulded bases. The doorstep
is an old tombstone, on which is inscribed a
sword and, apparently, a cross. The sacristy
has a fireplace in the gable wall, while south of
the window in the east wall is a laver with an
ogival head. The basin has a bold projection,
and the drain has an outlet above the upper
member of the string course. In the south
wall is a squint to obtain a view of the alter.
The daylight has been barred vertically and
transversely. On the west wall a large slab of
black marble, within a moulded and much
decayed border of red-veined white marble,
commemorates with a long Latin inscription
George, seventh Lord Seton, who died in 1585. |
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TRANENT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
In the north transept there is a tomb recess
beneath the gable window. The head is
segmental and is wrought with heavy and very
coarse filleted rolls and flanking hollows. On
the jambs are equally coarse filleted shafts and
flanking hollows with moulded capitals and bell-
shaped bases.
On the blank east wall is an ornate Renais-
sance mural monument to " James Ogilvie of
Birnes 1618," who married Beatrix, fourth
daughter of George, sixth Lord Seton, and died
on 29th January 1617. The date 1618 possibly
records the erection of the monument. The
finials of the entablature are surmounted by
the Seton crescents and in the tympanum are
the undernoted armorial bearings. The main
shield is quartered, the 1st and 4th quarters
bear a lion passant regardant, crowned (Ogilvie)
2nd and 3rd three papingoes two and one
(Hume of Fast Castle), while an inescutcheon
at fess also quartered has 1st and 4th a lion
rampant surmounted of a ribbon (for
Abernethy), 2nd and 3rd three piles (Wishart).
Above the achievement is the motto EX
VNGVIBVS LEONEM. (" From the claws [one
knows] the lion.")
A row of beam holes has been cut on the
east wall of both transepts. Similar mortises
are found in other churches which have been
put to secular uses, as Seton was. The south-
eastern internal angle of the north transept
deserves notice; the basement course of the
choir is continued for a short distance along
the east wall, as though the angle had termin-
ated originally in a buttress; the lower member
of the basement course returns along the
north-eastern pier of the crossing.
The south transept has, beneath the gable
window, an arched tomb recess with a semi-
circular head, on which are wrought filleted roll
and flanking hollow mouldings. In the east
wall is an ornate piscina with an ogival head,
which was originally filled with cusping (fig. 27).
The outer member of the head is crocketed and
on either side of the jambs is a buttress with a
gableted, crocketed and pinnacled top stopp-
ing on and incorporated in a horizontal band
of continuous ornament surmounting the whole.
The basin, which is circular, appears to have
no outlet. On each side of it is a circular
depression 2 3/4 inches in diameter, in which
probably the cruets were set. The projecting
118
portion of the basin is corbelled out from the
wall and is carved with a winged grotesque
with pointed ears.
Adjoining this piscina is an elaborate Re-
naissance mural monument of freestone and
marble, which has been covered with poly-
chromatic decoration (fig. 3). The monument
is to the memory of James, First Earl of Perth,
who married Lady Isabel Seton, daughter of
Robert first Earl of Winton, and died at Seton in
1611. In the tympanum is a shield with helm,
mantling and supporters, the dexter being a
savage, sinister, a unicorn chained ; the shield
is charged per pale : dexter, three wavy bands
for Drummond ; sinister, the Seton arms
quartered with three garbs (Cumming). An
inescutcheon is charged with the royal arms
of Scotland. These coats are repeated on
separate shields, each surmounted by a coronet,
on either side of the missing central panel.
In a description of these mural monuments
in the Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. vol. xxii., p. 178
it is stated that the central panel, which is
now missing, was of marble and was inscribed
" Conditum hic est quicquid mortale fuit
Jacobi Drummond, familiæ principis, quique
primus familiam titulo Perthiam (sic) comi-
tatus illustravit. Monumentum hoc posuit
amantissima et maestissima conjunx D. Isabell
Setoun Roberti Wentoniæ unica. An . Sal . . "
Below the panel were two kneeling figures ; a
fragment of the male figure lies in the choir.
The rounded marble cushioning towards the
base is divided by a freestone strap bearing
beneath an earl's coronet initials in monogram,
of which the letters are I. D. E. P. S. C., for
James Drummond Earl of Perth, Isabella
Seton Countess. The cushioning bears the
epitaph composed by Wm. Drummond of
Hawthornden
" IN STEED OF EPITAPHES AND AIRYE PRAISE
THIS MONVMENT A LADYE CHASTE DID RAISE
TO HER LORD'S LIVING FAME AND AFTER
DEATH
HER BODYE DOTH VNTO THIS PLACE BEQVEATH
TO REST WITH HIS TILL GOD'S SHRILL TRVMPET
SOVND
THOGH TYME HER LYF NO TYME HER LOVE
CAN BOVND."
The mural monuments originally stood in the
choir. |
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TRANENT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TRANENT.
Beside the north-eastern crossing pier is the
entrance to a turnpike-stair giving access to
the tower. The crossing is ceiled with quad-
ripartite vaulting with moulded ribs meeting
at a central oeil-de-boeuf. The wall ribs spring
from corbels, three carved with foliage, the
fourth with a grotesque. In the eastern piers
are socket holes apparently for the rood beam
and in the intrados of the arch other sockets
for supports of a veil or screen. The western
piers also have socket holes, but these are
apparently later. In the south-west angle,
there is a benatura with an ogival head and a
circular basin supported on three grotesque
heads. In the south-east corner is a font 2 feet
6 inches in diameter, on plan octagonal on top
but square at base. The sides are panelled,
and three of the panels have shields. The
central shield is charged with the Seton
arms. On one side the shield bears the en-
grailed cross of the Sinclairs, while the other
has the cross (? chrysma) symbol of Jesus,
with apparently two initials.
Another font lies in the north-east corner.
It is circular, 2 feet 4 inches in diameter at top
and, like the other, is reduced to a square below.
Around the rim is a band of nail-head ornament,
and on the upper surface can be seen the holes
for securing a font cover. Both fonts have
outlets in the bottom ; they may be assigned
to a date rather anterior to that of the building
(described Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxi., p. 431-2).
BELL.-The tower is two storeys in height.
Within the lower hangs a bell brought from
Holland by George, seventh Lord Seton, in
1577. It was long hung in the tower of Tranent
Parish Church, from which it was removed to
Gosford and afterwards replaced in its original
position in the tower of Seton Church. Besides
the arms and name of George (7th) Lord Seton,
it bears the following Dutch inscription " Jacop
eis mynen naem ghegoten van Adriaen Stey-
laert int iaer mccccclxxvii." (James is my
name, made by A.S. in the year 1577). The
arms are the quartered crescents and garbs of
Seton. There are two small figure panels on
the skirt.
HERALDIC PANEL.-Within the choir there
lies, against the infilling of the south doorway,
a fine heraldic panel wrought in high relief.
At base a scrolled label bears the (Seton)
motto " Invia virtuti via nulla " ; above this
119
is a scrolled panel bearing the Seton arms with
an inescutcheon at fess having a star of six
points within a double tressure flory-counter-
flory : all surmounted by an Earl's coronet
beneath a helm and mantling. The helm bears
the Seton crest, a dragon spouting fire, with
wings elevated bearing a star of six points.
Above the crest is a second label bearing the
second (Seton) motto " Hazard . Zit . Ford-
ward." The shield panel is supported by two
lions collared. Robert Seton was created Earl
of Winton in 1600, when the star on an in-
escutcheon was added as an augmentation, but
the workmanship of the panel suggests a mid-
17th century date.
Another panel, a pediment with strap
ornament, is charged with the arms of Elizabeth
Maxwell, daughter of the seventh Lord Herries
and second wife (c. 1628) of the third Earl of
Winton : 1st and 4th a saltire with label in
chief, 2nd and 3rd three hurcheons.
Seton Church is unusually well preserved and
singularly free from Post-Reformation additions
and alterations. Its history has not, however,
been entirely peaceful, for the church appar-
ently suffered at the hands of foreign invaders,
and in the 18th century was desecrated by
the Lothian militia. In 1851 it is noted that
the bays and windows were rudely blocked up
with masonry, and that one transept was used
as a carpenter's shop.1
HISTORICAL NOTE.-A parish church existed
at Seton in the 13th century at least. It paid
to Bagimont's crusading tenth four marks for
the years 1274-6.2 The history of its trans-
formation into a collegiate establishment has
been outlined above. In this rearrangement
the " personage " i.e., the revenue accruing to
the "parson" or rector on the ordinary parochial
basis, was divided between the provost and
prebendaries.3 Its staff consisted of a provost,
six prebendaries, two singing boys and a
clerk.4 Janet Hepburn, widow of the fifth
Lord Seton (cf. p. 116) added two chaplains
endowed from her own Templar lands of Seton
and of Spenslands in East Fortune, and this
charter of foundation was confirmed in 1556
by John Hamilton Archbishop of St. Andrews.5
This lady's ample benefactions to the church
had also included five " compleit stands " of
" ornaments " or vestments-of purple velvet
embroidered with gold, of crimson velvet |
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TRANENT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
embroidered with gold, of white damask, of
green cloth of silk and of black double worsted,
"with uther certaine cheissebillis (chasubles)
and vestimentis of sundré silkis"; in addition
to a great cross of silver, "ane eucharist of
silver," a silver-gilt chalice, and hangings of
tapestry ("arres") for the alter.6 But in 1544
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 164.-Elphinstone Tower (No. 192).
[marginal note]
Note that in the
hall the stair from
below enters at the
[service] and that to
the upper rooms enters
from the [?], is that
[? ?] up [?]
have to [?] the
whole length of the hall
and has monuments carved
[? ?] from the cornice
above part at A.
Note also that the lord's
private room, B,
had no [?]
approach via the
gallery C ([?]
[?] ) also
the lords room would
benefit by the heat
from the kitchen flue.
The gallery, besides
giving an impressive
approach, would pass
as a waiting room.
These are the main
[? ?] of the plan,
all there is [?]
of accessories.
the English invaders spoiled the church, took
away the bells, organ, and other portable things
and burnt the timber work in the building.7
After the Reformation Seton was treated at
first as an independent charge but in 1580 was
united with Tranent. William Seton "preten-
dit provost of Seton" was in 1592 summoned
120
before the Presbytery of Haddington with a
view to his deposition for non-residence. His
defence was that Seton was not " ane benefice
of cure or ane parish kirk."8 The Commission
for the Plantation of Kirks in 1650 ordered the
erection of Seton as a parish, but Lord Winton
delayed and finally compromised by building
[illustration continued]
FIG. 164.-Elphinstone Tower (No. 192).
a new church. In 1715, Lord Winton being a
Jacobite, the place was entered by the Lothian
militia, who defaced the monuments.8
1 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxii. p. 175; 2 Theiner's
Vet. Mon. No. cclxiv. ; 3 History of Seytoun,
p. 34-40 ; 4 Family of Seton i., p. 105 ; |
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TRANENT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TRANENT.
5 Family of Seton ii., p. 846 ; 6 History, p. 39 ;
7 History, pp. 42-3; 8 Family of Seton ii., p. 774.
ix. N.W. 9 February 1923.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
192. Elphinstone Tower.-This house (fig.
17) is situated two miles south of Tranent on
the southern and lower of the two ridges run-
ning northwards from the heights of Soutra to
the shores of the Firth. It consequently
commands an extensive prospect, bounded on
the north by the higher ridge, on the east by
Traprain and North Berwick Law, and south
and west by the Lowther and Pentland Hills.
It is a 15th century tower oblong on plan
(fig. 164) and contains three main storeys be-
neath the wall-head, which terminates in a
parapet walk with rudimentary corner rounds,
all borne on moulded corbels with moulded
interspaces of late 16th century design. The
walls are of coursed ashlar with long and short
quoins. At ground level a basement course
with a splayed set-off returns and is stopped on
either side of the entrance doorway, which is
set in the north wall a little above the ground
This doorway has a segmental head and
is giblet checked to receive an outer timber
door, which opened outwards, and an inner
grate of iron opening inwardly. The win-
dows have splayed jambs and lintels and
have been heavily barred and stanchioned.
At the north-east angle can be traced the
outline of a much later building, which
communicated with the lower floors of the
tower.
The tower measures 57 feet from ground
to parapet, 35 feet from north to south and 50 1/2
feet from east to west. The walls, averaging
8 feet in thickness, contain an unusual number
of the intramural stairs and chambers which are
so common a feature in 15th century tower
plans. The entrance opens into a lobby within
the thickness of the wall, through which the
basement is entered and from which ascends,
on the east, the main staircase ; while a lesser
staircase on the west leads to a small chamber
ceiled with a segmental vault of stone and
provided with a latrine in its south-west angle,
a cupboard or lamp recess in the east wall,
and a small window to the west. These
staircases are straight and are both contained
121
within the thickness of the lateral wall. The
basement is a single chamber oblong on plan
with an inward projection at the north-west
angle. It is 34 feet long and 18 1/2 feet wide and
is lit by two small windows with stepped
breasts in the south wall. In the north-west
angle is an intramural chamber unlit and
unventilated, ceiled with a segmental stone
vault. Its disposition would suggest its use as
a prison, but it has none of the usual provision
for ventilation and sanitation. The ceiling has
been patched, and in these renewals are frag-
ments of 17th century glass flagons. Another
intramural chamber in the north wall, beneath
the main staircase, has at one time been turned
into a communication between a later out-
building and the tower but is now built up ;
the entrance to it is also giblet checked.
The basement is vaulted with a semicircular
barrel-vault of stone and has been provided
at the springing level, with a mezzanine floor,
borne on joists resting on massive corbels
projecting from the lateral walls. This upper
floor is lit by windows in the gables and was
entered from the main staircase. The first
floor is occupied by the Hall, an apartment
29 1/4 feet long and 20 1/4 feet wide, ceiled with a
lofty pointed barrel-vault. The fireplace in the
centre of the west gable is filled in, but fractures
in the infilling reveal that the jambs have a
filleted shaft as an outer member, with an
inner curvilinear moulding. The jambs termi-
nate in moulded bell-shaped bases and capitals
of the same form but reversed. The lintel was
massive but is fractured and incomplete, and
only the northern portion remains in situ ; the
other is lying in the embrasure of the north-
west window. Above the lintel there has been
a projecting cornice, but the mouldings have
been cut flush with the wall. Above the
fireplace five stones are inserted, one carved
with a head, the others with one or more
shields bearing arms. The southern shield
bears three crescents within a double tressure
flory-counter-flory for Seton ; the second has
three crescents for Edminstone ; the third, a
lion rampant within a double tressure flory-
counter-flory for Maitland ; the fourth, a heart
and on a chief three stars for Douglas ; the
fifth, on a chief three cushions or possibly
mascles ; the sixth, a saltire with three
cushions on a chief for Johnston; the seventh, |
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TRANENT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
a chevron between three boars' heads, erased
and tusked, for Elphinstone; and the eighth,
a lion rampant. This heraldry seems to be
purely decorative in significance.
In the south-western angle a vice leads from
the Hall to the upper floors and to the parapet
walk. In the south in-going of the fireplace a
squint is formed to light the stairfoot at dark.
The Hall is lit by four windows in the lateral
walls, two on either side of the chamber. The
eastern windows have their sills at a con-
siderable height above the floor level ; the
other windows have intramural chambers open-
ing off the in-goings. The chamber opening
from the south-west window has an edge roll
and hollow moulding wrought on the jambs and
lintel of the entrance. It has two windows
in the south wall and has apparently been
shelved, while in the ceiling are the outlets of
two flues apparently from latrines above ;
a similar device is to be found in the contem-
porary castle of Borthwick, Midlothian. The
corresponding window in the north wall has
a small mural chamber opening off the east
in-going, and a doorway in the west in-going
leads to a vice, which ascends to a small private
room placed over a similar apartment entered
from the stairfoot. The upper of these rooms
had an access to the flue of the great fireplace,
so contrived as to admit of the Hall being
viewed while the spectator remained unseen.
The walls of the Hall have received a coating
of plaster " on the hard," and on this surface
can be seen traces of decoration in red
and black; a similar treatment may be noted
at Borthwick. A kitchen and service room
are placed within the east gable with a vice
in the north-east angle leading to chambers,
which are contrived above these but still
below the level of the vault of the Hall. A
vaulted gallery is placed on this upper level
over the main stair.
On the second floor the space corresponding
to the Hall is divided into two apartments,
each with a fireplace in the gable. The intra-
mural passages and chambers are repeated on
this floor also, while in the south wall are con-
tiguous latrines, one for each apartment.
The floor above has been borne on joists and
is partially an attic.
The roof is modern, but the parapet and
walk, the latter having spouts in the shape
122
of canon to remove the surface water, date
from the 16th century. The unusual breadth
of the walk on the north is due to the thickness
of the wall beneath.
The structure is unusually complete but has
settled badly on account of the neighbouring
mines ; despite the careful tying in and
bracing, further settlement will lead to serious
results.
HERALDIC PANEL.-A 17th century heraldic
panel is built into one of the exterior walls of
the farmhouse adjoining the castle ; it is
executed in high relief and, being deeply under-
cut, is consequently badly weathered. At top
there is a label incomplete, bearing an illegible
motto, below which is the crest, apparently a
demi-lion rampant, on a helm and mantling of
ornate character that surmounts a shield
parted per pale ; dexter, a lion rampant,
sinister, on a bend a star between two crescents
(Scott of Buccleuch). The shield rests on the
upper portion of an incomplete cartouche, on
which is wrought a grotesque human head set
between two scrolls.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The tower was probably
erected in the 15th century, when Sir Gilbert
Johnstone, son of Sir Adam of Johnstone,
came into possession of the property by
marriage with Agnes Elphinstone, the heiress.1
Andrew Johnstone of Elphinstone is on record
in 1551.2 The line ended with Sir James,
third baron Elphinstone, who was alive in
1673, but had to part with the estates and
whose fate is unknown.3
1 Fraser's Annandale Family Book &c. i.,
p. xvi. ; 2 Johnstone MSS. p. 21 ; 3 Heraldry
of the Johnstones, G. Harvey Johnstone, pp.
30-32.
ix. S.W. (Edin.: iv. a S.W.) 30 August 1915.
193. Falside Castle.-On the summit of the
fertile upland which runs at an altitude of
four to five hundred feet above sea-level from
the Moorfoots northward to the sea at Preston-
pans about 2 miles south-west of Tranent, is
the ruin of Falside Castle represented by
Patten4 as " a sory castell " and " a little
castel or pile," a summary description in no
way warranted by the present remains, which
are those of a 15th century tower, to which,
in the 16th century, and apparently prior to the |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 165.-Falside (No. 193).
To face p. 123. |
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TRANENT.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TRANENT.
burning and destruction related by the diarist,
a large addition was made, doubling the
previous accommodation (fig. 165).
The 15th century tower is the northern
portion of the structure and is oblong on plan ;
it measures externally 30 1/2 feet from north to
south by 39 1/3 feet from east to west. The
walls stand to a height of rather less than
40 feet and are of light coloured freestone
rubble in parts roughly coursed. They are
built in long stones averaging 2 feet by 10
inches high, but the lower courses of the north
wall are cubical, averaging 1 3/4 feet on face, and
are built in a purplish freestone, which is also
employed for the dressings and the majority
of the quoins ; these are alternately long and
short. Oyster shell pinning is noted throughout
the structure. The voids, which have a broad
chamfer on the jambs and lintel, are filled in
throughout the lower stages of the building,
so that access to the interior is now unobtain-
able. Several windows were altered in the
17th century. These have backset margins
slightly chamfered at jambs and lintels. The
description and illustration given in the
Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland
i., p. 410 shows that the tower contained four
storeys beneath the wall head, which was sur-
mounted by a parapet walk ; the uppermost
storey only was vaulted, and this vault still
appears to be entire but is covered with
vegetation. The entrance to the tower was in
the north wall at ground level through a
doorway with a semicircular head, which
admitted to a lobby in the thickness of the
wall, off which was entered the basement
floor, and to a straight mural staircase ascend-
ing to the first floor ; beneath the stair landing
a prison or pit is contrived, the only access
to which is a hatch. Above the first floor
level the stair is carried upward as a turnpike.
The second floor appears to have been the
principal apartment and contains two mural
chambers, while one of the windows is seated.
The addition, which is L-shaped, projects
southward for a distance of 41 feet, and its
greatest width is that of the tower, 39 1/3 feet.
The walls are of grey freestone rubble un-
coursed. The voids have polished dressings,
which are moulded at jambs and lintel with
the quirked edge-roll. Relieving arches, which
are a constructive feature of the period, occur
123
over every window in the addition. Several
of the upper windows retain the original iron
gratings ; and these are constructed on the
same principle as the iron gates of the period.
At the two southern angles are ruinous turrets,
of ashlar, borne on continuous corbel courses
of six members. Between the turrets appears
a water spout wrought in convolutions. The
re-entering angle houses a projection angular at
base and circled above to contain a turnpike
providing communication between the second
and upper floors. The angle of the adjoining
west wall is splayed beneath a corbelling to
permit a clear outlook to the westward.
The entrance to the later portion was in the
west wall at ground level, and above the
entrance can be traced the panel mould which
formerly bordered an armorial panel. This
entrance opened on a fair sized vestibule, which
communicated with a large kitchen on the
east, with the old tower through an access
formed in its south wall and with a mural
staircase adjoining ; this staircase ascended
from the ground to the first floor, and from this
level the ascent was continued by the turnpike.
The basement floor is vaulted ; the upper floors,
of which there were two between vault and wall
head, were constructed of timber, as was the
roof. There was no parapet walk on the
later portion, but there was certainly a garret
within the roof, as is evidenced by the gable
windows, which possibly were supplemented by
dormers in the lateral walls. The kitchen
has a large fireplace and oven in its north wall,
with lockers in the jambs, and a second and
smaller fireplace in the south gable ; the east
wall has two sinks with slop outlets, while the
west wall has an inlet for water similar to that
noted at Markle (No. 145). The partition
between the kitchen and vestibule is pierced
by a service hatch. The upper floors call for
no special mention.
The castle has been enclosed by a wall,
against which, on the west, are remains of later
outbuildings. The close appears to have been
entered at the south-eastern angle, where is
seen the ruin of a 17th century dwelling. This
structure was two storeys and an attic in
height, L-shaped on plan, and measured 41 feet
from north to south by 45 feet from east to
west ; the re-entering angle contained a little
rectangular tower housing a turnpike. The |
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TRANENT.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [TRANENT.
masonry is freestone rubble and has been
harled externally ; the floors and roof were of
timber. It is stated* that there was a dormer
window on the building which bore the date
1618 and initials I.F. I.L. (James Fawside and
his wife Janet Lawson: cf. Reg. P.C. xii., p. 387).
Falside was the home of the Fawside family.
The arms of Sir John Fawside are represented
on a panel in Tranent Church (No. 190). These
are : a fess between three roundels (bezants).
The building is in bad preservation.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The grant of Tranent
Church by Thor to Holyrood c. 1150 is wit-
nessed by, among others, Ædmundo de Faze-
side. Robert del Fausyde is on Ragman Roll.
In 1307-8 " John of the hill of Fausyde " was
a prisoner in Scarborough Castle.1 Under
English occupation the lands of Falside were
possessed by the family of la Zouch or Souche
and on their forfeiture were transferred to
Alexander Seton, being part of his barony of
Tranent.2 In 1371 William de Seton gave a
new charter of Wester Fausyde to John of
Fausyde, his armour-bearer, the predecessors
of the grantee having held them from the
ancestors of the granter ; the reddendo was a
pound of pepper or two shillings sterling, if
asked for, to be given on the ground (super
solum) of Fawsyde.3 No dwelling house is
mentioned ; but in Somerset's Expedition of
1544 the " little castel or pile " on " Fauxsyde
Bray " shared in the battle of Pinkie, its
occupants shooting at any English soldiers that
came near with their dozen or so " hand
gunnes and hakbutes," till the battle was lost,
when " they pluct in ther peces, lyke a dog
his taile, and couched them-selfes within all
muet ; but by and by the hous was set on
fyre, and they, for their good will, brent and
smoothered within."4 Some time soon after
1631 Robert Fawside sold the estate to an
Edinburgh merchant named Hamilton.5
*Cast. & Dom. Arch. i, p. 413.
1 Cal. Docts. iii., No. 35 ; 2 Reg. Mag. Sig.
i., App. i., No. 45 ; 3 Ibid. No. 436 ; 4 The
Expedicion into Scotlande 1544 by W. Patten
in Dalyell's Fragments of Scottish History
p. 74 ; 5 Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot. xxiv., p. 377.
ix. S.W. (Edin. : iv.a S.W.) 3 May 1920.
124
194. Tower, Tranent.-Off Church Street,
Tranent, is the ruin of a tower, which to-day is
utilised as a stable and hay loft. On plan it is
L-shaped, the shorter limb being formed by a
square tower, which projects southward from
the south-west angle of the main block and
houses a wheel-stair. The overall dimensions
are 24 feet 10 inches from north to south by
36 1/2 feet from east to west. The building is of
rubble and has been harled. It is three
storeys in height, and the basement only is
vaulted ; the roof is covered with pantiles
and the gables are crowstepped. The windows,
which are unusually small, have chamfered
jambs and lintels. On each floor are two
intercommunicating chambers, from the wes-
tern of which the stair enters. The stair
ascends from ground to the third floor, above
which level the tower contains a dovecot with
stone nests. The west room on the first floor
has a large built up fireplace in the gable with
aumbry recess adjoining and a stone sink with
slop drain in the south wall. The tower may
date from the late 16th century.
ix. N.W. (unnoted). 6 April 1920.
195. Bankton House.-Bankton House,
better known perhaps as "Colonel Gardiner's
House" from its ill-fated owner who fell at the
Battle of Prestonpans (1745), is a late 17th
century mansion (fig. 20) standing in a park
rather less than a quarter of a mile south-east
of Prestonpans station. It is oblong on plan and
contains three storeys beneath the wall head ;
within the roof were two garret storeys. The
high pitched gables are curved geometrically.
The basement storey is partly sunk, so that the
pedimented entrance at first floor level is
reached from a flight of steps which crosses
a " dry area." To the south lies a large walled
garden, now under plough, with a square
Belvidere or garden house at either end of the
north wall.
Bankton House was originally known as
Olivstob and was purchased by Col. Gardiner
from one of the Hamiltons. It was afterwards
owned by Andrew Macdowall, Lord Bankton.
In 1852 it was destroyed by fire, but was
restored and is still in use as a farmhouse.
ix. N.W. 23 March 1920. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Picture inserted]
FIG. 166.-Whitekirk before 1914 (No. 200).
To face p. 125. |
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TRANENT.]-- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. --[WHITEKIRK.
MISCELLANEOUS.
196. Dovecot. - An oblong dovecot in three
tiers stands on a hillock beside the lane border-
ing the churchyard on the north. It is built of
rubble and has a timber and slated roof. Above
the entrance is a weather worn freestone panel
with an engrailed border, inscribed DAVID
SITOUN 1587; the date appears to have been
recut. A second panel on the tier above is
much later in character. It is also greatly
weathered, and of the inscription only
D E M E
I S S O B E L
H A M I L T O N
V N
I A
can be deciphered.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - This dovecot (colum-
barium prope templum de Tranent) is included in
the property belonging to John Seton baillie
of the vill of Tranent, to whom his son George
served heir in February 1585.1 "David
Seytoun in Tranent," also son of this John,
is witness to a bond of 1583 2 and another of
1589.3 He was Comptroller for James VI.4
1 Inquisit. Spec. Hadd. No. 398; 2 Reg.
P.C. iii. p. 637; 3 R.M.S. s.a. No. 1688;
4 Reg. P.C. v., p. 92(n).
ix. N.W. 6 April 1920.
197. Priest's Well. - Adjacent to the parish
church on the west is the Priest's Well. A
quaint smoking pipe of malleable iron and a
small flat glass bottle found in the well in 1851
are illustrated in The Family of Seton ii.,
p. 785.
i.x. N.W. 6 April 1920.
198. Architectural Details at Seton House. -
The 17th century rubble garden wall terminates
at the four angles in rounds or look-outs
averaging 131/2 feet in diameter and 121/2 feet in
height; on the south-west round a sundial,
formed from a skewback removed from the
collegiate church, is inset; the upper and under
surfaces being wrought as dials. Tracery details
from the church lie on the north terrace. Over
the stream and north-north-west of the house
are remains of 17th century buildings, appar-
ently a dam and sluice serving Seton mill; at
125
base remains of three massive piers or cut-
waters can be traced, while on the upper part
are windows of the period. On the left bank of
the stream south-west of the church are
remains of buildings known as the "priests'
houses," but the masonry is apparently of the
17th century; a few yards southward
traces of a large gateway c. 1620.
ix. N.W. 9 February 1923.
SITE.
The O.S. map indicates the following site:-
199. St. Germains Hospital, St. Germains
Lodge.
ix. N.W.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 167.-Whitekirk (No. 200).
WHITEKIRK AND TYNNINGHAME.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
200. Whitekirk Parish Church. - Situated
on rising ground about 33/4 miles north of East
Linton, this building (fig.166) was complete and
in use as the parish church until May 1914, when
it was destroyed by incendiaries. An influential
committee was formed for its restoration, and
subscriptions from the heritors and the public
were happily sufficient to enable the necessary
work to be effected. The description which
follows is of the building as it existed before
this reconstruction.
The church was dedicated in the name of the
Blessed Virgin and was originally built in the
15th century. The walls are of light red ashlar.
On plan (fig. 167) the building is cruciform and
comprises an unaisled nave, north and south
transepts and chancel. Above the crossing is a
massive square tower completed by a para- |
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WHITEKIRK AND] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [TYNNINGHAME
pet borne on corbels, within which rises a
pyramidal spire of wood. Towards the west
end of the nave on the south side there is a
porch. On the north side, within the angle
formed by the transept and the nave wall, a
turret contains a circular staircase giving
access to the floors in the crossing tower.
West of the stair a loft has been added as a
projection. On the east side of the transept
another projection was formed to contain a
staircase leading to a loft within this north
arm. In a previous alteration the nave was
restored and the south transept re-erected.
The chancel was covered with a steeply-
pitched wooden roof over a pointed barrel
vault of stone. The east gable terminates in
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 168. - Whitekirk, Front of Gallery (No. 200).
(From Drawing by J.S.Richardson.)
crow-steps above an east window of unusual
type for the position, being small, circular and
quatrefoiled. Above it is a panel on which is
carved a shield, charged with a fess, appare-
ently cheque, behind which is a crozier-
possibly the arms of Abbot Crawford of Holy-
rood (1460-83 Crawford=gules, a fess ermine).
If this window is original, as it appears to be,
its size and position may indicate that there was
an unusually high reredos behind the altar.
In alinement with the gable are buttresses in
three stages, and similar buttresses divide the
chancel externally into two bays. Each bay
on the south contains a pointed window filled
with tracery with soffit cusps, but the sill of
the easter of these south windows has been
raised for the later insertion of a doorway
below. Only the eastmost bay of the north
wall of the chancel contains a window.
The south-western porch (fig. 34) has typical
126
15th century diagonal buttresses in two stages,
with niches on the inner flanks, which terminate
in square pinnacles surmounted by finials. The
porch is entered through a pointed archway
with roll-and-hollow mouldings on the jambs
and archivolt, which are separated by impost
members. On a panel above the archway is
carved a canopied recess with little buttresses
at the sides terminating in crocketed pinnacles.
Within the recess so formed is a plinth with a
quatrefoil on its face, and on the back can be
seen the backing of the absent effigy. This
panel may not be in situ, as local tradition
says it was found in the churchyard and placed
in its present position for preservation. The
gable is crow-stepped. The roof of the porch
is a pointed barrel vault with diagonal ribs
springing from projecting corbels. Stone
benches return along the lateral walls, and a
doorway with roll-and-hollow mouldings on
jambs and lintel admits to the nave. Over
this doorway is an empty niche.
The interior of the church is plain. The
crossing and the chancel are the only portions
retaining features of interest. The piers
supporting the central tower are massive and
have chamfered edges. In the east face of
the south-western pier is an opening, now
built up, which had a depth of 6 feet by 12
inches wide. The crossing arches are semi-
circular and also have chamfered edges;
between these rises a vaulted roof with
diagonal ribs meeting at a central shield-shaped
boss charged with a saltire to dexter and a
Latin cross at sinister, the latter suggesting
that the upper sinister angle was looped. |
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WHITEKIRK AND] INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. [TYNNINGHAME.
The tower contained three storeys and a
garret above the vault of the crossing, as
indicated on the exterior by offsets. The
upper of these breaks and returns round the
pointed window on each face of the tower as a
label. These windows have splayed jambs in
two orders and are divided by a central
mullion bifurcating at the springing.
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS.
Chancel, 381/3 feet from east to west.
203/4 feet from north to south.
Nave, 501/4 feet from east to west.
223/4 feet from north to south.
Tower, 151/2 feet from east to west.
193/4 feet from north to south.
The walls average 31/2 feet in thickness.
WOODWORK.- The arcaded wooden front of
the north gallery (fig. 168), dating from the
17th century, was reported to have been taken
from Tynninghame Church.
MATRIX STONE. - In the south-east angle of
porch and nave is the matrix stone of a
memorial brass. It is 5 inches thick, 4 feet
9 inches wide and 9 feet 4 inches long.
HISTORICAL NOTE. - The lands of Hamere
with the parish church, afterwards known
as Whitekirk, were conferred by David I
on the canons of Holyrood as part of the
foundation, and the grant was confirmed by
successive bishops of St. Andrews, by William
the Lion and Alexander III. A document in
the Vatican Library, obviously written after
the Reformation, gives an account of the
church as follows.1 It begins:- "In 1294,
when Edward First of England had defeated
the Scots army near Dunbar, many of the army
fled into that castle, then commanded by Black
Agnes, Countess of Dunbar, who . . . made
her escape by water in the night in order to
have gone to Fife." Being injured, however,
and the wind being contrary she put in at
"the shore nearest to Fairknowe, to which she
was carried." A hermit advised her to drink,
in faith, from the holy well, which she did and
was immediately recovered from her injuries;
and "in the year following she built a chapell
and a chantry in honour of our Lady, and
endowed it with ten merks a year for ever."
But it must be remarked that, apart from the
fact that the battle of Dunbar was in 1296,
Black Agnes married Patrick, 9th Earl of
127
Dunbar, in 1324 and her connection with a
siege of that place was in 1338, when she
defended it successfully. The account con-
tinues: "The number of miracles performed
at this well was so great that in 1309, John
Abernethy, with the assistance of the monks
at Melrose, procured a shrine to be erected
and dedicated to the Holy Mother. In 1413
there were no less than 15,653 pilgrims of all
nations, and the offerings were equal to 1422
merks. In 1430 James First . . . built the
Abbey of the Holy Cross at Edinburgh, and
took the Chapell of Fairknowe into his pro-
tection, added much to it by building houses
for the reception of pilgrims, called it the
White Chapell, where he often went, and made
it a dependant on his own Abbey of the Holy
Cross. In 1439, Adam Hepburn of Hailes
built a choir, all arched with stone, agreeable
to the mode of Peter de Maine." The place
thus flourished, we are told, till in 1540, Oliver
Sinclair got leave to build a house near the
White Chapell, "in building of which he pulled
down the pilgrim's houses, and made use of
the stones for his own house." Finally, in
the course of the Reformation, offerings and
lands "were seized upon, and the shrine was
beat to pieces. That Holy Chapell . . was
made a parochial church . . and by them
called Whitekirk." As regards the closing
statement it must be pointed out that the name
'Whitekirk' is of a date long prior to the
Reformation. Fordun, who finished his history
c.1385, describing the plunder of the place by
the English in the invasion of February 1356,
speaks of it indifferently as alba ecclesia and
illa capella.2 Bower, in his expansion of the
same incident, after taking from Fordun how
"the English pirates" forced their way into
nostrae Dominae Albam Ecclesiam, situated in
the barony of "Hamyr" and spoiled the
image of Our Lady of its necklaces, rings,
bracelets and other valuable ornaments, pro-
ceeds to a vivid account of the robbery on the
testimony of a most reputable person who had
witnessed it as a twelve year old boy apud
Quhytkirk.3 In the record of visits by James
IV. to the place in 1491 and 1497 it is called
"the Quhyt Kirk," in which he made offerings
and paid for masses.4 James I., therefore,
could not have renamed it the 'White Chapel'
nor the Reformers "Whitekirk"; and the |
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WHITEKIRK AND] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [TYNNINGHAME.
alternative name of the 'Chapel of Fairknowe'
is not otherwise known. Nor did that King
have anything particular to do with Holyrood;
Bower, a contemporary, a churchman and
favourable to that monarch, says nothing of
it; while we have seen that the parish church
was granted to the Abbey in the 12th century.
The precise figures given for the number of
pilgrims suggest some form of record.
The attribution of the building of the choir
to Adam Hepburn in 1439 raises another
question. Nothing is said of any other part
of the building. It will be noted that one
feature is the small window high up in the east
gable. Now Bower, in the personal narrative
referred to above, tells how one of the English-
men, "treading on the high altar" (majus
altare pedibus calcans) snatched a ring from the
finger of the image, which was above the
altar, and broke off the finger in doing so;
then, sacrilegiously setting foot on the head of
the image, climbed into the "solar" or room
above and threw down to his accomplices "in
the choir" (in choro expectantibus) the personal
property (res peculiares) of the staff of the
church, which had been placed there under
the protection of Our Lady. But as the un-
fortunate man, jumping for joy at his booty,
left "the chancel" (cancellariam exiens) with
his friends, the figure of a crucifix scarcely
2 feet high, "the avenger of his robbed mother,"
fell upon him and dashed out his brains. It
appears then that the upper part of the
chancel behind the high altar was a room,
which would be lighted by the window in
question. But this again implies that the
present east wall is either that of 1356 or is,
if not built till 1439, as seems to have been
the case, similar in plan. There is clear evi-
dence at Lincluden College of a floored com-
partment over the choir.5
Fordun goes on to tell how the robbers also
carried off two canons of Holyrood, "who had
been lately entrusted with the care of the
Chapel," how the ship with its plunder was
sunk by a storm ("off the port of Tynemouth,"
Bower interpolates), but that the canons,
having previously been transferred to another
ship, escaped death, and were allowed to
return home.
In 1386 Clement VII., Anti-Pope, recognised
in Scotland, issued a "Relaxation of enjoined
128
penance to penitents who annually visit and
give alms to the fabric of the church of St.
Mary, Qwytkirk, in the diocese of St Andrews,
situate a day's journey from the boundaries of
the enemies of the realm and renowned for
miracles wrought by Jesus Christ, through the
intercession and merits of St. Mary."6
In the reign of James I. of Scotland, Aeneas
Sylvius Piccolomini, afterwards Pope Pius II.,
visited Scotland and, in fulfilment of a vow
made at sea, performed a pilgrimage barefooted
"on the frozen ground" to the shrine nearest
his port of landing, which happened to be
Alba Ecclesia ten miles away. The result was
he had to be brought back to the town (? Dun-
bar, Aberlady) in a litter, suffering from a
chill which left him with rheumatism for the
rest of his life.
On Oliver Sinclair's house see "Tithe Barn"
(No. 203).
In 1607 James VI. erected the free barony
of Holyroodhouse with the title of Lord Holy-
roodhouse in favour of John Bothwell of
"Aldhammer," one of the judges or senators
of the College of Justice, including with the
other properties a regrant of those previously
held and for this purpose resigned, among others,
the lands and barony de Alhammar alias
Quhytekirk with the lands of "Quhyte-inche,"
and adding from the spirituality of Holyrood
the revenues of churches including Whitekirk
and Tranent. Bothwell, however, had to
provide a suitable minister for each of the
churches, who should be nominated by the
king, the minister of Whitekirk getting three
chalders of victual and 100 merks with the
manse and glebe of the vicarage.7
Whitekirk was made part of the estate of
the bishopric of Edinburgh on its constitution
in 1633,8 but on the abolition of the bishopric
reverted to its position as a parish church.
1 Waddell's An Old Kirk Chronicle, pp.138-
40; 2 Gesta Annalia, clxxvi.; 3 Scotichronicon
Lib. xiv., cap. xiii., xiv.; 4 Accts. Lord High
Treas. i., pp. 172, 337; 5 Inventory of Monts.
in Kirkcudbright. No. 431; 6 Calendar of Papal
Registers iv., p. 253; 7 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a.,
No. 2004; 8 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a., No. 2225.
vi. N.W. 4 July 1913. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments- East Lothian.
[photograph inserted]
FIG. 169. - Tynninghame Church, Arch of Apse (No. 201).
To face p. 129. |
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WHITEKIRK AND] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TYNNINGHAME.
201. Tynninghame Church-Fragmentary
portions of the parish church of Tynninghame,
which was dedicated to St. Baldred, lie within
the policies of Tynninghame House, the seat of
the Earl of Haddington, about a mile north-
east of the village of Tynninghame.
The structure had an unaisled nave and
chancel, the latter terminating in an apse.
The nave and the walls of the chancel and apse
were demolished, leaving only the chancel arch,
the archway to the apse and the two apsidal
wall shafts (fig. 169). The apse was semi-
circular on plan and of the same width ex-
ternally as the chancel (fig. 170).
A railing erected on the line of the walls
encloses the ruin, which forms a burial place
for the Haddington family.
The nave had an external width of 27 feet
10 inches ; the eastern division between nave
and chancel is 3 feet 9
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 170.-Tynning-
hame Church (No. 201).
inches thick. The chancel
is 18 feet 3 inches long
and is separated from the
apse by a partition 3 feet
2 inches in thickness.
These latter divisions have
an external width of 24
feet 6 inches.
The archway between nave and chancel is
12 feet 3 inches wide. The jambs are recessed
and have engaged shafts in the angles and on
the jamb face. The bases, now covered, have
rudimentary mouldings. The capitals are of
the cushion type with rectangular abaci cham-
fered below ; the surfaces of both capitals
and abaci are enriched with imbrications.
The arch is in recessed orders, enriched on
the soffit and sides of the inner order with
the saw-tooth ornament ; between this and
the outer order, which also has the chevron
enrichment, is a fillet ornament. The hood-
mould is invected, with continuous semi-
circular indentations on either edge.
On the west face of the archway there is, on
either side of the arch, an arched recess 2 feet
deep and 3 feet wide, which contained an
alter. The northern recess is complete, and its
archivolt in enriched with the chevron ornament.
The archway between apse and chancel is
11 feet 7 inches wide. The jamb section is
similar to that of the chancel arch but smaller
in scale. This arch also is in recessed orders.
129
Over each shaft of the jamb the order is
enriched with the saw-tooth ornament, the
intermediate orders with the chevron. The
hood-mould is enriched with a continuous
series of opposed half-roundels. The capitals
have palmette foliage voluted on the angle.
The abaci are similar in section and contour
to those of the outer arch but are enriched with
the palmette leaf.
The wall shafts of the apse have inter-
mediate bands enriched with the chevron. The
capitals are scalloped and cubical. The abaci
are elaborately surfaced with a lozenge motif.
Although the remains of the church are
scanty, the detail of the portions remaining
are in a remarkable state of preservation and
enable the date of the structure to be assigned
to the 12th century. The spirit of the mould-
ings suggests a French influence.
TOMB RECESS.-Within the south wall of the
chancel is a late 15th century tomb recess
6 feet 4 inches wide. The recess is arched
equilaterally ; on the archivolt are hollow and
bowtell mouldings. At the apex of the arch
are three escutcheons, of which that to the
dexter is placed on a fret and bears a fess
wreathed for Carmichael, presumably George
Carmichael, rector of Tynninghame in 1475,
who was appointed Bishop of Glasgow in 1482
but died before consecration. The central
shield bears a star between three cinquefoils,
which should be Hamilton of Belhaven. This
would put it much later than that above, but
the shield may have been originally blank, as
the sinister one still is, and the coat added later.
Within the recess is a worn female effigy,
which apparently, however, has been trans-
ferred to this place.
GRAVE-SLAB.-Within the apse is a slab of
red sandstone 3 feet long, 1 foot 9 1/2 inches broad
and 4 inches thick, on which is rudely incised
a Latin cross ; the arms, head and shaft have
a breadth of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. The arms terminate
in crude fleur-de-lys.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Tynninghame Church
and lordship belonged to the (arch) bishops of
St. Andrews, the latter having the status of a
regality including the lands of Auldhame and of
" Knowis Inche and Scowgall."1 But the
earlier connection of the church was with
Lindesfarne, to which ecclesiastical settlement
belonged " all the land which pertains to the
9 |
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WHITEKIRK AND] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [TYNNINGHAME.
monastery of St. Baldred, and is called Tynning-
ham, from Lammermoor even to Eskmouth."
The association with St. Cuthbert in the 7th
century depends on the identification of
" Tyningham " with the Scottish not the
English Tyne.2 At Tynninghame, however,
Baldred-to whom the church was dedicated-
had led the life of an anchorite and died there
in 756 or 757, Tyningham, too, being one of the
three places in Lothian in which the saint is
said to have been buried.3 In 941 Olaf God-
freyson " laid waste the church of St. Baldred
and burned Tynninghame."4 From this date the
history of the place is a blank till in 1094
" King Duncan." son of Malcolm Canmore,
granted to the monks of St. Cuthbert at
Durham " Tiningeham, Aldeham, Scuchall
(Scougall), Cnolle (Knowe), Hatherwick and
all the service which bishop Fodanus had of
Broceesmuthe " ; but the authenticity of this
charter has been called in question and, in any
case, the grant never operated.5 " Fodanus " is
Fothad, bishop of St. Andrews 1059-1093, so
that these lands apparently already pertained
to that bishopric and remained with it. From
a reference in another case it is learned that
the church had the privilege of sanctuary for
" life and limb."6
From information supplied by the church
records it can be inferred that the building
originally extended to a length of from 70 to
80 feet, having one door at the east end by
which " the minister was used to enter " and
another under a tower at the west end. The
church was structurally divided into four
" rooms " by the arch of the apse, the chancel
arch and apparently another arch at the tower
entrance. In 1665 the building was still " in
good case," but after the union of the parish
with that of Whitekirk in 1761 " the church
was in great part pulled down and destroyed,
the churchyard ploughed through, the grave-
stones taken away, the village itself im-
proved,"7 and so but a few fragments remain
of what was probably the finest parochial
example of Romanesque architecture in Scot-
land.
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. 1598 No. 688 ; 1618 No.
1946 ; 2 Hist de S.C. in Symeon of Dur. i.,
199. cf. Introd. p. xvi. ; 2 Symeon of Dur.
Hist. Dunm. Eccles. i., p. 48 ; Scotichron. Lib.
iii., cap. xxix. ; 4 Symeon Hist. Reg. ii., p. 94 ;
130
5 Lawrie's Early Scottish Charters, No. xii. ;
6 Liber de Calchou No. 21 ; 7 Waddell's Old
Kirk Chronicle, pp. 27, 29, 33.
vi. N.W. 16 August 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
202. Auldhame.-Auldhame stands on one
of the sea cliffs from which the estate of Seacliff
is named, about a mile south-west of Tantallon
Castle. The site is very beautiful, overlooking
a little crescentic bay bordering the estuary of
the Forth between the Gegan and Car Rocks.
The ruin, which is that of a large 16th century
mansion, consists of a main block meas-
uring 59 3/4 feet from north-north-west to
south-south-east by 27 feet 4 inches from
east-north-east to west-south-west ; from the
eastern wall two rectangular towers project
eastwardly and circled turrets are corbelled out
in the northern re-entering angles. At the
northern angles of the main block there appear
to have been circled turrets, and against the
western wall were outbuildings. The building
has been at least three storeys in height ; the
basement, or a portion of it, has been vaulted.
On the first floor there is a fragment of a
17th century plaster frieze. The structure is
in very bad condition.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Auldhame belonged to
the family of Otterburn ; Sir Adam Otterburn
of Reidhall and Auldhame, son of a merchant
burgess of Edinburgh, was King's Advocate
in the reign of James V.1 In 1594 there was a
charter of novodamus by James VI. to Thomas
Otterburn of Reidhall and Mariota Lauder his
wife, of the lands of Auldhame, etc. in the
barony of Tynninghame, the regality of St.
Andrews, etc.2
1 Omond's Lord Advocates i., p. 11 ; 2 Reg.
Mag. Sig. s.a., No. 86.
iii. S.W. (" St. Baldred's House")
27 August 1913.
203. Tithe Barn. (O.S. "The Granary")-
On the higher ground which overlooks the
church of Whitekirk 100 yards distant to the
south is a long narrow structure (fig. 16) built
of rubble with ashlar dressings, which is reputed
to have been the tithe barn of the parish. The
building contains two storeys with a garret in |
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WHITEKIRK AND] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [TYNNINGHAME.
the roof, is oblong on plan, and measures over
walls 66 feet from east to west and 19 feet from
north to south. On examination the western
portion proves to be older than its adjunct and
to have been the remains of a tower, which at
a later period was extended eastwards and
subsequently utilised for agricultural purposes
(fig. 171). Its south wall is only 2 1/3 feet-the
same thickness as the later walls, as against the
other walls which are 5 feet thick, suggesting
that this south wall was reconstructed when the
eastern portion was built, but on the other hand
it should be noticed that the original south-
west angle of the tower is clearly defined. Three
courses below the eaves on the south wall is a
panel containing an angle figure supporting a
shield charged apparently with a fess (for
Crawford : cf.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 171.-" Tithe Barn,"
Whitekirk (No. 203).
p. 126), all very
much worn.
The north wall
projects 2 feet
3 inches from
the correspond-
ing wall of the
barn. The
crow-stepped
east and west
gables are con-
temporary and
receive a steeply
pitched roof covered with slate.
On the ground floor the two portions do not
communicate but have separate entrances in
the south wall. The western leads to an unlit
vaulted chamber, which measure 14 feet from
north to south and 12 feet from east to west ;
at the north end of the east wall a doorway
leads to a straight staircase within the thick-
ness of the north wall and may also have led
to the eastern portion of the structure. The
latter is now entered from a wide doorway and
is a long narrow space lit by windows in the
external walls. In its west wall is a wide
stone fireplace, which subsequently was con-
tracted by a stone partition, a remnant
evidently of a domestic structure which
occupied this portion of the site and was after-
wards adapted to the present arrangement.
The upper floors of the western portion are
thrown into the barn and are entered from a
forestair on the south. The older portion
131
appears to date from the 16th century and the
addition about a century later. No care is
taken to preserve the structure, which is still
used as a stable. The roof particularly calls
for repair.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-On this structure see
Whitekirk Art. No. 200. As there shown, we
have in the tower at least, part of the
castle built for himself by Oliver Sinclair,
after 1540, out of the pilgrim's houses. " A
castle of Oliver Sanckler's " was burnt by the
English in their invasion of Lothian in 1544.
Later, during the English occupation of
Haddington in 15481 they burnt in October
of that year, among other things, " a village
named the Longhoet Whyte Kirk belonging to
' Olivier Sainkle,' and his own house where
he lived."2
1 See Introd. p. xxx ; 2 Sa maison propre
ou qu'il se tenoit. Teulet Papiers d'Etat i.,
p. 197.
vi. N.W. 4 July 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
204. Cairn, Whitekirk Hill.-On the summit
of Whitekirk Hill, a plateau rising 100 feet
above the surrounding country and 200 feet
above sea-level, some 450 yards north-north-
west of Whitekirk Church, is a circular cairn of
stones overgrown with grass, 50 feet in diameter
and 6 feet in height.
vi. N.W. 21 June 1913.
205. Cairn, St. Baldreds Cradle, Tynemouth.-
On a promontory, which rises about 40 feet
above high water mark, some 700 yards north-
west of the mouth of the River Tyne and about
120 yards west of the rock known as St.
Baldred's Cradle, is a fine circular cairn of
stones, covered with a growth of grass, 60 feet
in diameter and rising to a height of 11 feet
above the surrounding level.
vi. N.E. 21 June 1913.
206. Standing Stone, Kirklandhill.-In a
cultivated field about 300 yards south-west of
Kirklandhill steading is a tall stone pillar,
11 feet high and 6 feet 9 inches in girth at the
base, which is almost rhomboidal on plan, |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
with sides varying from 20 inches to 22 inches
in breadth. It has a slight slant to the south.
vi. S.W. 24 June 1913.
207. Kitchen Midden, Auldhame.-Immedi-
ately to the west of the old house of Auldhame,
on the eastern side of the wall separating the
plantation from the field, is a mediæval
kitchen midden. Many limpet and whelk
shells are seen lying about, and several frag-
ments of green glazed pottery have been
found on the site.
iii. S.W. (unnoted). 12 November 1913.
208. St. Baldred's Cave.-Within 100 yards
of and 25 feet above the high water mark
between the Gegan Rock and Seacliff, stands
a rocky cliff, at the foot of which, facing east,
is a cave, 23 feet broad and 15 feet high at
the mouth, running in a westerly direction for
a distance of 20 feet into the rock, the sides
and roof gradually converging. In the mouth
of the cave, slightly beyond the line of the
rock, is a squat pear-shaped mass of rock,
flat on the top and packed with large stones
at the base, standing about 3 feet above the
floor of the cave. It measures 5 feet in height,
is 20 feet in girth at its widest part, and 5 feet
5 inches by 4 feet 6 inches across the top.
(See Archæologia Scotica, vol. iv.).
iii. S.W. 12 November 1913.
209. St. Baldred's Well, Auldhame.-This
well is situated about 300 yards north-west of
Auldhame.
iii. S.W. 12 November 1913.
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate the following sites:-
210. Graveyard near Auldhame. iii. S.W.
211. Our Lady's Well (supposed Site)
Whitekirk. vi. N.W.
WHITTINGHAME.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURE.
212. Papple " Convent "-The O.S. marks
"Papple Convent, Remains of" some 50 yards
132
south of Papple farm house, which lies 1 mile
north of Garvald. On the site is a ruinous wall
some 20 to 25 feet in height, 15 feet long and
3 feet in thickness. The traditional name
suggests the situation of the toft and garden
with eleven acres of land in territorio de Popill
gifted by Patrick, son of Roger de Popill to the
nunnery at Haddington and enumerated in the
list of its possessions in 1458.1
1 R.M.S. s.a. No. 610.
xi. S.W. 21 August 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
213. Whittinghame Castle.-Whittinghame
Castle, a late 15th or early 16th century tower
(fig. 18), stands about 1/4 of a mile south-south-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 172.-Whittinghame Tower (No. 213).
west of the modern mansion of Whittinghame
on the opposite bank of the wooded ravine
through which flows the Whittinghame Water.
The building stands some 33 yards back from
the edge of this ravine, which forms a natural
defence and boundary on the east. On plan the
structure is L-shaped (fig. 172); the main block
contains the apartments and measures ex-
ternally 30 1/2 feet by 24 feet, while the wing
13 feet by 14 feet, projects, not from a lateral
wall as is usual, but from the north gable and
contains the entrance and the staircase, which
is rectangular on the lower flights and circular
above. There are three storeys beneath
the wall head, which terminates in a corbel
course surmounted by a walk with a crenellated
parapet, which returns round the whole building.
A garret over the main block is entered from
the parapet walk.
The entrance (fig. 44) to the building is in the
north wall of the staircase wing and not in the
re-entering angle. On the jambs and lintel of |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments-East Lothian.
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. 173.-Whittinghame (No. 213).
FIG. 174.-Lennoxlove (No. 70).
FIG. 175.-Winton (No. 136).
FIG. 176.-Winton (No. 136).
PLASTERWORK.
To face p. 133. |
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WHITTINGHAME.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [WHITTINGHAME.
the doorway is wrought a bold quirked bead-
and-hollow moulding; on the lintel is a shield
charged as under-parted per pale, dexter a
cinque foil beneath two stars on a chief ;
sinister a boar's head erased beneath two stars
in chief (for Douglas) : the cinquefoil shows
maternal descent from Borthwick. The Doug-
lases of Whittinghame being descended from
the Earl of Morton used their arms with a
difference.
The basement chamber has been modernised
but retains its stone vaulted ceiling, below
which a mezzanine floor was entered off the
staircase but has been removed. The windows
have been enlarged, and direct access with the
exterior provided in the east wall.
The principal apartment of the tower is
situated immediately over the vault and is
entered from the staircase, which at this
height has attained a circular form. The
apartment measures 21 1/2 feet by 15 feet ; in
the east and west walls are deeply recessed
windows and in the south gable a fireplace.
The northern end was screened off at the
small window in the west wall, forming the
servery usual in buildings of this type. Mural
closets are formed in the thickness of the walls
at the north-east angle and a cupboard in the
north wall. The panelled ceiling (fig. 173) is well
preserved and is a good example of 17th
century plaster work ; the architraves of the
doors are coeval and are carved with an egg-
and-dart enrichment reminiscent, although the
motif is different, of the woodwork at Pilmuir
House (No. 20) in the parish of Bolton.
Although this apartment has been enlarged by
the inclusion of the servery and otherwise
slightly modernised, it still retains much of its
old time appearance.
The floor above is occupied by estate
employees.
Adjoining the tower on the east are the
remains of 17th century outbuildings with
vaulted ceilings, and further east a raised
garden terrace is reached from stairs on the
north and south.
The tower is in excellent condition.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Whittinghame was part
of the great historical possessions of the Earls
of March, till in 1372 George Dunbar, 10th
Earl of March, conferred the lands on Sir
James Douglas of Dalkeith,1 who had married
133
his sister Agnes and was the founder of the
Collegiate Church of Dalkeith. His son
became first Lord Dalkeith and his grandson,
on marrying a daughter of James I.,
first Earl of Morton. The fourth Earl was the
Regent Morton (1572-8) and it was at Whitting-
hame that the proposal for the assassination
of Darnley was made to him by Bothwell and
Lethington in January 1567. On his execution
and forfeiture in 1581, title and lands lapsed
to the Crown, but were later returned to the
representative of the family. Whittinghame
passed in 1660 to Alexander Seton first Lord
Kingston (cf. p. 67), who had married
Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Archibald Douglas
of Whittinghame and heir-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 177.-Stoneypath
(No. 214).
ess of her brother Archi-
bald, and again by mar-
riage with Kingston's only
surviving daughter to the
Hon. William Hay of
Drummelzier, son of the
first Earl of Tweeddale,
remaining with the Hays
till it was sold in 1817,
along with Stoneypath
to Mr. James Balfour.2
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. i., No. 522 ; 2 Family of
Seton, ii., pp. 717, 721 ; New Stat. Acct. ii.,
p. 64.
xi. N.W. 21 August 1913.
214. Stoneypath Tower.-The ruin of this
tower is situated 1/2 mile to the east-north-east
of Garvald village on the right bank of a ravine
traversed by the Papana Water 200 yards
below its confluence with the Thorter Burn.
The steep escarpment of the glen provides a
natural defence on the north, west and south ;
to the east are traces of an earthen rampart
some 12 feet wide at base.
The building is L-shaped on plan (fig. 177),
measuring 43 feet 4 inches along the south wall
and 50 feet along the east wall. The main
block on the south has an external width of
31 1/2 feet and the wing of some 26 3/4 feet. In the
former, below the first or principal floor there
is a basement with a mezzanine floor within the
vaulted ceiling ; between the first floor and
wall head levels were apparently three storeys,
the uppermost ceiled with a stone vault. |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
The walls are built of roughly coursed rubble
with dressed corners and at ground are 9 feet
in thickness. On a quoin at the south-west
angle is a shield rudely incised with the arms
of the Lyle family-fretty of six pieces. On
the west wall of the main block there is a
projection with a window to the south and
a machicolated opening beneath, which could
hardly have been defensive and probably was
a garderobe.
The entrance was in the south wall at the
first floor level, where a breach in the wall
has been built up and a modern doorway
inserted.
The basement of the main block contains
one apartment 26 feet by 14 1/2 feet, with a
chamber of similar dimensions in the mezza-
nine floor above. Mural chambers are placed
in the lateral walls and a narrow window in
the east wall. The greater portion of the
vaulted ceiling has fallen, filling the chamber
with its debris. The wing contains at this
level two chambers, but the more northerly
is now inaccessible.
The Hall occupied the full extent of the
first floor of the main block. It had a large
fireplace in the east wall with a sink and drain
on the south lighted by a small window. A
window on the north has stone seats
and a cupboard in the western jamb. On
crossing the Hall the wheel-stair, somewhat
unusually situated in the north wall of the
main wing, is reached. It communicates with
the basement and the upper floors. The upper
floors are completely ruined.
The tower dates from the 15th century and
is now in an exceedingly bad state of repair.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-In 1494 " David Lile of
Stanepeth " was pursuing the free tenants of
Duns in a case of multure to the mill of Duns,
which he had feued.1 The Lisles continued
there for more than a century thereafter.
In 1609 George " Lyell " was of Stanypeth "
and had a charter of novodamus to himself,
his wife Agnes Hamilton and their son and
heir George, which included also their estates
in Berwickshire, but this is followed, in the
same year, by a resignation of the property
and its transference to Alexander Hamilton of
Innerwick.2 These grants included the castrum
or fortalicium of Stoneypath, meaning simply
the tower. Later (1616) the property was
134
conferred upon Archibald Douglas of Whittinge-
ham, when it is specified as having been part
of the earldom of March,3 and in 1628 was in
possession of William Douglas of " Stanypeth."
whose daughter married Arthur Douglas,
nephew of the 8th Earl of Morton, and to this
Arthur and his wife Stoneypath was conveyed
with the barony of Whittinghame.4 In this
way Stoneypath came ultimately to the Setons5
from whom in time it passed by purchase.
1 Records of the Parliament of Scotland (1804)
p. 447 ; 2 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. Nos. 73, 183 ;
3 Ibid. s.a. No. 1460 ; 4 Ibid. s.a. No. 1315 ;
5 cf. Art. 213 ; R.M.S. 1668, No. 1154.
xi. S.W. 21 May 1913.
215. Penshiel.-On a plateau under the
east shoulder of Penshiel Hill and on the left
bank of the Faseny Water, 3/4 of a mile south-
west of its confluence with the Whitadder, are
the ruins of a grange which was attached to
Melrose Abbey.
The main building measures exteriorly 82
feet by 25 feet and is built of large boulders of
greywacke and granite. The ground floor is
vaulted transversely and is lit by two small
windows in each gable. The entrance is in
the north wall, and the doorway has been
secured by three cross-bars, as indicated by
the bar-holes. The walls are 4 to 5 feet thick
at base and 2 feet 6 inches thick at first floor
level. There are traces of a forestair at the
south-east angle, and the presence of beam
holes in the exterior face of the south wall,
7 feet from the ground, may indicate that a
hoarding or stage ran along that wall. The
ruin is 10 feet high and is in a bad state of
repair. Only 5 feet of the vaulting remains,
and its condition is precarious.
To the south of this building is a courtyard
61 feet by 90 feet enclosed by a wall some
3 feet thick. To the north are foundations of
two buildings, probably of later date. These
measure respectively 49 feet by 19 feet and
49 feet by 24 feet 6 inches. The walls are 3 feet
in thickness.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Penshiel is referred to
in a charter granted by the Earl of Dunbar to
the monks of the Isle of May in 1200. Later it
belonged to the monks of Melrose. The main |
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WHITTINGHAME.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [WHITTINGHAME.
building described above was possibly erected
in the first half of the 15th century. The lands
of Penshiel were included in the gift of the
Melrose lands in 1621 to Thomas Hamilton,
Earl of Melrose, afterwards Earl of Haddington1
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a.
xvi. S.E. 6 June 1913.
216. Johnscleugh.-This 17th century
dwelling-house on the left bank of the Whit-
adder Water, 4 miles south-east of Garvald, is
oblong on plan and measures externally 60 feet
from east to west and 22 feet 6 inches from
north to south. A semicircular tower pro-
jecting from the middle of the south wall
contains a wheel stair, which gives access to
the upper floor.
There were originally two apartments on
the ground floor with barrel vaulted ceilings,
but the eastern chamber has been subdivided
by a partition, its vault has been removed,
and a modern range replaces the large fire-
place in the east gable recorded in Proc. Ber.
Nat. Club. 1896-8, p. 168.
The building contains two storeys beneath
the wall head and a garret within the roof.
It is in occupation, and the fabric is structurally
sound.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The lands of " Johnis-
cleuch " in 1598 were granted to George
Lauder of the Bass, but later were seized for
debt ; and in 1634 the creditors' " process "
was assigned to Richard Lauder of Halton,
who had a royal charter of confirmation of
these and other lands formerly belonging to the
Lauders of the Bass.
R.M.S. s.a. No. 16.
xvi. N.E. 15 June 1913.
217. Ruchlaw.-On the left bank of the
Sauchet Water, and less than 1/4 mile west of
Stenton village on the other bank, is the man-
sion of Ruchlaw, a 17th-century house built by
Archibald Sydserff and still occupied by his
descendants. It is built on an L plan ; the
main block, 67 feet long by 21 feet broad,
lying east and west and the wing, which
contains a turnpike stair, projecting south-
ward from the eastern end. The building is
three storeys in height. The walls are built
of a reddish rubble in courses and are covered
135
with harling, but the plain backset dressed
margins of the voids and the moulded Re-
naissance eaves course are left exposed ; the
gables are crowstepped.
On a modern porch, which has been built out
in the re-entering angle, are two carved and
inscribed triangular pediment stones, which
have been removed from some other portion
of the building. The first has, beneath two
stars, a shield charged : within a bordure a
fleur-de-lys between three cinquefoils two and
one. Flanking the shield are the initials A S
for Archibald Sydserff, the founder, and the
date 1663. The second pediment has a quarter-
foiled ornament comprising four fleur-de-lys
conjoined at the stalk, flanked by initials A S
with initials E S below and the date 1663.
Internally the house is modernised ; the
ground floor apartments were originally vaulted
but all the vaults except that of the eastern
chamber have been removed. Several of the
windows have heavily moulded cases and
astragals which appear to be of memel pine
and contemporary with the house.
The building is in good condition.
SUNDIALS.-Within the walled garden south
of the house are two sundials. The first is a
17th-century lectern dial 5 feet 8 inches high
(fig. 83). The shaft is octagonal on plan and
has a moulded necking, capital and base. The
dial-stone is wrought into 35 dials ; the gnoma
have been of wrought iron and are completely
oxidised. The dial is presumably not in situ
having been re-erected in the 19th century.1
The second dial is later and less interesting.
The dial stone is a small, flat slab of white
marble, has a wrought iron gnomon, and is
inset in a red freestone baluster, the total
height being 3 1/2 feet. The marble slab bears
an illegible inscription, usually taken to be
ROUGHLAW.
DOVECOT.-Within a park 200 yards south-
west of the house is a dovecot rectangular on
plan and probably contemporary with the
house.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-William ' Sydserff ' of
Ruchlaw is on record in 16232 ; Mr. James
' Sydserfe ' of ' Rouchla ' was in 1644, ap-
pointed to take control of the Whittinghame
estates,3 and Archibald ' Sydserfe ' of Ruch-
law (1666) was his son.4 |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
1 Cast. and Dom. Archit. v., p. 424 ; 2 Reg.
Mag. Sig. s.a., No. 498; 3 Reg. Pr. Co. viii.,
(Second Series) p. 36; 4 Inquisit. Special.
Hadd. No. 283.
xi. N.W. 24 April 1920.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
218. Fort near the White Well, Johns-
cleugh.-About 3/4 mile north-west of Johns-
cleugh and 600 yards south-east of the White
Well, at an elevation of 1000 feet above sea-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 178.-Fort, Friar's Nose (No. 219).
level, between the Whitadder and the Garvald
and Priestlaw road, is a small hillock, the
summit of which is enclosed by two concentric
walls of earth 64 feet apart, the enceinte
measuring 48 feet in diameter. The inner
rampart is 9 feet broad and 1 foot in height,
and the outer is 6 1/2 feet broad and 1 foot in
height, the highest part of the interior rising
5 1/2 feet above the base of the outer bank. To
the north-west there is a gap in the outer
rampart to provide an entrance, which has been
banked on either side as far as the inner
rampart, which it does not penetrate. On
136
either side the passage is 4 feet broad and 9
inches high, and the sides converge regularly
from the outer rampart, where the distance
between them is 20 feet, to the inner rampart
where they are only 7 feet apart.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
219. Fort, Friar's Nose, Kilmade Burn.-
This fort (fig. 178) is situated on a promontory
called " Friar's Nose " (locally " Knowes")
the eastern extremity of Priestlaw Hill, which
lies in the angle formed by the Whitadder
Water and its tributary on the right bank,
the Kilmade Burn, at an elevation of 800 feet
above sea-level, and within a stone-throw of
the Berwickshire boundary.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 179.-Fort Sections, Friar's Nose (No. 219).
The fort is pear shaped, with its narrowest
end to the south and its longest axis north and
south, and measures internally, from crest to
crest, 410 feet with a greatest width from east to
west of 285 feet. The east side falls away
steeply to the Kilmade Burn 60 feet below,
and this steep natural face continues round the
north side above the valley of the Whitadder.
On these sides, therefore, the fortifications have
been economised. There is an entrance on the
east from which a rampart runs southwards,
fully 30 feet in from the crest of the natural
slope, leaving a terrace between itself and the
crest. This single rampart continues north-
wards from the entrance as the inmost defence
of the fort, but two outer ramparts (fig. 179),
respectively 47 and 78 feet distant from the
crest of the inmost one, also begin, and are
continued round the north sector to the north-
west entrance, the outmost being somewhat
down the face of the slope. About 150 feet
before reaching this north-west entrance the
outmost forks inwards to merge with the inner
rampart, thus forming a traverse, while the |
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WHITTINGHAME.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [WHITTINGHAME.
inmost ends in a mound directly opposite the
entrance. For a distance of 90 feet from the
entrance the rampart overlaps itself on the
outer side. From this entrance, which passes
through all the defences and is 15 feet wide,
to the south-western entrance these three ram-
parts are continued with an additional but
smaller one between the inmost and the middle
ramparts, giving four ramparts on the most
assailable side facing the level from Priestlaw
Hill. On this smaller rampart about 110 feet
south of the north-west entrance are two im-
pinging hut circles. The south-western entrance,
with a width of about 18 feet, passes three of
the defences but does not pierce the inmost one.
From this entrance to the south-east corner the
three main ramparts only continue, until the
two outer tail off where they meet the crest of
the natural slope; the inmost one apparently
continuing its course round but being for about
a hundred feet now indiscernible. The en-
closure is studded with indications of hut
circles.
xvi. S.E. 28 September 1920.
ENCLOSURES.
220. Walled Enclosure, Kingside School.-
About 150 yards north-west of Kingside School
on the ridge between the Whitadder and the
Kell Burn, at an elevation of 850 feet above
sea-level, are the remains of a stone wall,
which encloses an area roughly oval in outline
with its longer axis running north and south
and measuring 108 yards in length by 83 yards
in breadth. Only traces of the wall are
seen at the north and south ends, but on the
edge of the steep declivity on the west, falling
some 40 feet to the haugh on the left bank of
the Kell Burn, which flows some 50 yards
distant, are the remains of a wall now 7 feet
broad at the base and rising 1 foot above the
inside level ; outside on the north are traces
of a ditch. The road from Gifford to Priest-
law cuts through the east side of the enclosure,
and there are indications of the wall having
been carried along the east side of the road
on the top of the slope overlooking the Whit-
adder. Signs of an entrance 20 feet wide are
seen at the north end, and opposite it, 20 feet
nearer the centre of the enclosure, are two
large stones 6 feet apart.
137
The Setting of Small Stones (No. 244) is
placed near the centre of this enclosure.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 19 May 1913.
221. Circular Stone Walled Enclosure.-In a
small glen about 1/2 mile west of Kingside School
on the northern slope of Penshiel Hill, at an
elevation of about 850 feet above sea-level,
are the foundations of a stone wall 4 feet broad
enclosing an area 100 feet in diameter. To the
south-east, where the brae rises quickly, the wall
cannot be traced. A spring of water rises in
the centre of the enclosure. As it is commanded
by the hillside to the south and south-east, it
cannot have been a defensive enclosure, but
was probably a fold for animals.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 12 June 1913.
222. Small Excavated Hollow, Back Burn,
Johnscleugh.-About 600 yards north-east of
Johnscleugh, just over the top of the brae rising
from the south side of the Back Burn, at an ele-
vation of 1000 feet above sea-level, is a single
small excavated hollow, oval in shape, lying
north and south. It measures 16 feet in
length by 10 feet in breadth, and the earthen
bank round it, is 4 feet broad and 1 foot in
height. There is an entrance in the eastern
side.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
223. Small Excavated Hollow, Ling Rig,
Johnscleugh.-Some 500 yards east of Johns-
cleugh, at an elevation of 1000 feet above
sea-level, on the sloping summit of the Ling
Rig, which lies between the Back Burn and
the Writerspath Burn, is a group of small
excavated hollows, placed almost in a line,
running north-north-east and south-south-west,
the major axis of the hollows being across this
line. The first is oval in shape, 12 feet long,
8 feet broad and 1 foot 6 inches deep ; the
second 20 yards to the south-south-west is
circular and 9 feet in diameter, while it is
surrounded by a slight wall 3 or 4 inches in
height ; the third, 38 yards farther on in the
same direction, is of the same length and
breadth as the first but is less distinct ;
the fourth, 40 feet distant, showing a wall
3 feet broad and 4 to 6 inches high on the |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
flanks, is 18 feet long by 10 feet broad ; some
20 yards to south-west there is evidence of
two adjoining hollows, too indistinct for
measurement ; 115 yards south-south-west of
the fourth, on the top of the brae running down
to the left bank of the Whitadder, there is
a rectangular area with rounded corners,
17 feet long by 8 feet 6 inches broad, which
seems to have been divided into two com-
partments, the wall being 4 feet 6 inches
broad and showing an entrance on the south-
ern side, while adjacent to the western end,
there is an oval hollow 13 feet long by 8 feet
broad ; and 15 feet to the west there are
faint traces of another group. Along the
top of the brae, about 150 feet above the
Whitadder, for a distance of about 200 yards,
an earthen wall, 5 feet in breadth and 1 foot
in height, has been thrown up, the ends being
carried straight down the steep slope of the
hill to the grassy haugh on the left bank of the
river, forming an enclosure which would give
access to water. Probably the excavations and
the enclosure are contemporary and tend
to confirm the idea that these hollows are the
remains of shielings.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 13 June 1913.
224. Small Excavated Hollows, Redstone
Rig, Faseny Water.-About 600 yards north of
Faseny Cottage on the steep south-western
slope of the Redstone Rig, at an elevation of
some 1300 feet above sea-level, are three small
hollows with the excavated material thrown
up towards their lower sides. The first is oval
in shape, the longer axis running north-west
and south-east, and measures 11 feet by 8 feet
by 1 1/2 feet ; the second some 30 yards distant
to the south-east is circular and measures
9 1/2 feet in diameter by 1 foot in depth ; the
third lies 70 yards south of the last and is
slightly oval in shape with quite a prominent
bank on the west-south-west side. Along the
main axis, west-north-west and east-south-
east, it measures 8 1/2 feet while its breadth is
7 feet and its depth 2 feet.
xvi. S.W. (unnoted). 1 July 1913.
CAIRNS.
225. Cairn, Herd's Hill, Faseny Water.-
About 20 yards from the left or north bank of
138
the Faseny Water, on a slight terrace at the
foot of the very steep southern slope of Herd's
Hill, almost opposite the Hare Cleugh and at
an elevation of about 1000 feet above sea-level,
is a small cairn of stones overgrown with
heather, oval in shape, measuring 19 feet from
north-west to south-east, 13 feet across and
2 feet in height. On the summit a thin, flat
slab 4 feet in height, 1 foot broad and 7 inches
thick, has been set up on end and is supported
by several boulders. This stone is said to
have been in this position for 60 years at least,
but, as it is not sunk into the cairn, it is pro-
bable that it was erected at a much later
date than the cairn.
xx. N.W. (unnoted). 12 June 1913.
226. Cairn and Enclosure, Priestlaw Hill.-
On the summit of Priestlaw Hill, at an elevation
of over 1250 feet above sea-level, is a circular
stone cairn 40 feet in diameter and 4 feet in
height. Encroaching on the western side is a
quadrangular stone walled enclosure, 54 feet
long and 30 feet broad at the middle, in the
interior of which a cross of loose stones, laid
on the surface of the ground, has been made
in late times. The central portion of the
cairn does not seem to have been disturbed,
although the cairn may have been robbed to
a certain extent to supply material for the
adjoining structures.
xx. N.E. (unnoted). 13 June 1913.
227. Small Cairn, Nine Stone Rig, Johns-
cleugh.-Some 700 yards south-west of Johns-
cleugh and 130 yards west of the cart track
between Mayshiel and Johnscleugh, on the
eastern slope of a heathery muir called the
Nine Stone Rig, at an elevation of rather over
1000 feet, is a small grass covered mound
which, on probing, is found to be made of
stones. It is 12 feet in diameter and 1 foot
in height at the centre.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 19 May 1913.
228. Small Cairn, Clints Dod.-At an eleva-
tion of 1307 feet above sea-level, on the summit
of Clints Dod, 1 1/2 miles south-south-east of
Stoneypath Farm steading, is a cairn of stones
overgrown with grass, 9 feet in diameter and |
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WHITTINGHAME.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [WHITTINGHAME.
6 inches in height. A surveyor's cairn has
been erected on the top.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 17 June 1913.
229. Cairns (denuded), Spartleton Edge.-
About 1/2 mile north-north-east of Johnscleugh,
near the summit of the broad ridge known as
Spartleton Edge, at an elevation of 1100 feet
above sea-level, are the remains of what
probably were three cairns. On the site of
the first are three large stones, the largest
being 4 feet in length, and a quantity of
smaller stones. A hollow 8 feet in length by
5 feet in breadth with small stones showing
on the sides may have been the spot where a
cist was placed. Some 80 yards to the east,
four stones 9 to 12 inches in breadth, set on
end and rising 4 inches above the surface,
demark the southern arc of a circle, while the
northern half shows the remains of the cairn.
The diameter is 18 feet taken across the semi-
circular arc formed by the four stones. About
23 feet to the south-east there seems to have
been a third cairn 17 feet in diameter, but it
is almost entirely demolished.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
230. Cairn, Spartleton Edge.-About one
mile north-east of Johnscleugh, on Spartleton
Edge, at an elevation of about 1100 feet above
sea-level, is a cairn of stone covered with a
depth of about 6 inches of peat, measuring 25
feet in diameter and rising 1 1/2 feet above the
level of the ground.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 3 April 1914.
231. Cairns, Kingside Hill.-Half a mile
north-east of Mayshiel near the foot of the
western slope of Kingside Hill, about 150 yards
south of the Gifford and Priestlaw road and
some 100 yards east of the cart track between
Mayshiel and Johnscleugh, are two circular
cairns. The most southerly is 36 feet in
diameter and 3 1/2 feet in height ; the second,
143 feet to the north-north-east is 28 feet
in diameter and 2 1/2 feet in height. Both show
signs of excavation on the top.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 30 May 1913.
232. Bell Cairn, Table Rings, Penshiel
Hill.-On a gentle slope on the north-east
139
shoulder of Penshiel Hill, about 1000 yards
[marginal note]
Plan wanted
south-west of Kingside School, at an elevation
of over 1000 feet above sea-level, is a circular
cairn of stones surrounded by a broad trench
with an earthen bank outside, a typical bell
cairn, marked Table Rings on the O.S. map.
The cairn is almost flat on the top with a very
slight hollow in the centre, as if some slight
excavation had been attempted, and it is
built not exactly in the centre of the saucer-
like excavation, but rather nearer the north-
western and western arcs of the enclosing
bank. The trench has been excavated to a
depth varying from 2 feet on the south-west
to 1 foot 3 inches on the north-east, and the
bank varies from 9 inches in height above
outside level on the south-west to 1 foot 6
inches on the north-east to allow for the
slope of the hill and keep the top of the en-
closing bank about level. The whole structure
is nearly circular, the external diameters vary-
ing only 3 feet. From north-west to south-east
the diameter over all is 96 feet and from
north-east to south-west 93 feet. The bank
varies in width from 6 feet on the north-west
and north-east to 7 feet on the south-west
and 8 feet on the south-east, while it rises
about 2 feet 9 inches above the bottom of
the trench, which is 21 feet broad at the north-
west, 22 feet at the south-west, 27 feet at the
south-east and 25 feet at the north-east.
The cairn is 34 feet in diameter at the base
and 24 feet at the top from the north-west to
south-east, 31 feet at the base and 22 feet at
the top from north-east to south-west, and it
rises 4 feet 3 inches above the bottom of the
trench.
xvi. S.E. 12 June 1913.
CAIRNS AND HUT CIRCLES.
233. Small Cairns and Hut Circle, Johns-
cleugh.-Above the brow of the steep slope
rising from the left bank of the Whitadder,
about 3/4 mile north-west of Johnscleugh, a short
distance north of the mouth of the Tavers
Cleugh on the western side of the river, at an
elevation of a little over 1000 feet above sea-
level, are two cairns and a hut circle which can
be traced with difficulty as they are covered
with several inches of peat. The hut circle has |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
an interior diameter of about 9 feet, and the
wall is 4 feet broad rising 6 inches above ground.
Some 45 yards to the south-east is a cairn
9 feet in diameter and 9 inches in height.
The stones of both are only found by deep
probing. About 60 yards to the east-south-east
is another cairn of similar dimensions.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
234. Cairns and Hut Circles, Kingside Hill,
Mayshiel.-Round the highest part of King-
side Hill, which rises to an elevation of about
1100 feet above sea-level, and about 3/4 mile
north-east of Mayshiel are a number of small
cairns of stone and two stone hut circles, all
overgrown with grass but showing stones up
to 10 inches and 12 inches in breadth peeping
through the green covering. The first structure
lies above the brow of the hill overlooking
Kingside Burn some 400 yards distant to the
north. It is 18 feet in diameter and rises
1 foot above ground, but, being only slightly
hollow in the centre, it is difficult to say
whether it is a hut circle or a plundered cairn ;
some 68 yards south-east is a cairn 18 feet in
diameter and 2 feet high in the centre ; about
62 yards to the north-east of the last, and
lying east of the first, is a hut circle 7 feet in
diameter inside, with walls 4 feet thick and
about 1 foot high with signs of an entrance
to the south, and three boulders 14 inches in
diameter on the outside line of the wall on the
south-eastern arc ; some 21 feet south of this
hut circle is a smaller example with an interior
diameter of 4 1/2 feet and wall about 3 feet thick
with stones of 8 inches in thickness in the wall ;
about 100 yards south-east of the larger hut
circle there are the remains of a plundered
cairn 25 feet in diameter and now 1 1/2 feet in
height, the stones removed from the south-
eastern portion of the cairn being thrown down
in a heap beside it ; about 40 yards east-south-
east of the large hut circle is a cairn 10 feet in
diameter and 1 foot high with four or five
stones, 1 1/2 feet by 1 foot in size, piled on the
top and numerous other smaller stones peeping
through the grass. A further group of five
cairns 12 to 14 feet in diameter are situated
some distance down the south-western slope
of the hill, of which four appear complete,
but all that remains of the fifth is a few of
140
the larger stones which had been placed round
the outer edge of the cairn.
This group of hut circles and cairns is some
300 yards east of the stone circle (No. 240)
and two cairns (No. 231).
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 6 June 1913.
235. Small Cairn and Hut Circle, Johns-
cleugh.-About 3/4 mile west of Johnscleugh on
the top of the brae sloping down southwards
to the Hazelly Burn, about 150 yards distant
from it and some 300 yards west of the junction
of the South Grain Burn and the Hazelly
Burn, is a heather
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 180.-Stone Setting
Mayshiel (No. 238).
covered mound 12
feet in diameter and
rising 1 foot in height
at the centre, which,
on being probed, was
found to be of stones
covered with a depth
of peaty soil. Three
feet to the north is
what appears to be
the stony foundation
of a hut circle, 16
feet in diameter in-
ternally, with an en-
trance facing the cairn. The elevation is about
1050 feet above sea-level.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 30 May 1913.
236. Small Cairn and Hut Circle, Bleak Law
Rig, Johnscleugh.-On the gentle eastern slope
of the Bleak Law Rig, at an elevation of 1000
feet above sea-level, some 600 yards north-
west of Johnscleugh and 200 yards south-west
of Garvald and Priestlaw road, is a hut circle
with an exterior diameter of 27 feet and an
interior diameter of 15 feet. The stone wall
which rises 1 foot 6 inches above the interior
is 6 feet in breadth, increasing to 9 feet on the
western arc, but it has been tampered with at
this part, and the entrance cannot be traced.
Some 26 feet to the east of the hut circle is a
small cairn of stones, 9 feet in diameter and
1 foot in height. The hut circle and cairn are
covered with grass, while the surroundings
show a vigorous growth of heather.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 13 June 1913. |
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WHITTINGHAME.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [WHITTINGHAME.
HUT CIRCLES.
237.-Hut Circle, Rough Cleugh Rig, Johns-
cleugh.-Some 400 yards south-west of Johns-
cleugh and about 150 yards south-south-east of
the Hazelly Burn, at an elevation of 1000 feet
above sea-level, on Rough Cleugh Rig a
heather covered muir, is a hut circle of stone
covered with grass, 6 feet in diameter in-
ternally and surrounded by a wall 4 feet thick
rising 9 inches above outer and inner level.
There is no sign of an entrance.
xvi. N.E. (unnoted). 13 June 1913.
238. Stone Setting, Mayshiel.-About 1/2 mile
north-east of Mayshiel and 10 yards south
of the road from Gifford
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 181.-The " Nine
Stones " (No. 239).
to Priestlaw, at an eleva-
tion of over 900 feet
above sea-level, is a set-
ting of stones which
measure up to 2 feet
3 inches in length, en-
closing a roughly circular
area 9 feet in diameter
(fig. 180). Two stones
lying 10 feet farther
down the hill have pro-
bably been removed from
the southern arc of the
circle. Round the out-
side, soil is heaped up against the stones, while
the interior has been excavated 6 inches to
1 foot below the exterior level.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 14 June 1913.
STONE CIRCLES AND SETTINGS.
239. Stone Circle " The Nine Stones," Nine
Stone Rig, Johnscleugh.-On the south-eastern
slope of a heather covered muir running down
to the Kingside Burn, some 400 yards distant
from it and almost due west of the highest
point of Spartleton Hill 1 3/4 miles away,
slightly above the 1000 feet contour line is a
stone circle called "The Nine Stones" (fig. 181),
of which only eight remain, three on the north-
western arc being still upright and five pro-
strate. Six of these stones at present enclose
three quarters of a circle of an approximate
diameter of about 22 feet, the southern arc
being open. One stone more than 5 feet in
141
length lies outside the north-eastern arc almost
buried under peat, only one corner of the pillar
protruding above the ground. The most
southerly stone, which is split, lies several feet
beyond the line of the circle. The largest erect
stone, towards the north-west, is triangular in
shape and measures 5 feet in length, 2 feet in
breadth and 3 feet above ground, while its
two neighbours to the east and west rise 2 feet
in height. The other five stones, which are
overthrown, vary from 2 to 7 feet in length.
There is evidence of slight excavation at the
centre, and about the most southerly point
in the circle is a hollow that may have been
occupied by the outlying stone to the south,
which if replaced would make this segment of
the circle fairly complete.
xvi. S.E. 19 May 1913.
240. Stone Circle, Kingside Hill, Mayshiel.-
At an elevation of rather more than 1000 feet
above sea-level, on
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 182.-Circle, Kingside
Hill (No. 240).
the north-western
slope of Kingside Hill,
some 50 yards east
of the cart track be-
tween Mayshiel and
Johnscleugh and 150
yards south of the
Kingside Burn, is a
stone circle (fig. 182)
about 39 feet in dia-
meter, composed of
30 small boulders, of
which the majority
are set on edge ; a
number have been overthrown, and three are
covered with turf. The highest rises only 16
inches above the surface of the ground. In the
centre of the circle is a large boulder 2 feet
long by 1 foot 9 inches broad, appearing 6 to
9 inches above ground and penetrating at least
about 2 feet under ground. For a distance of
5 feet round this central stone there is a very
slight mound. On the northern curve of the
circle the stones are placed closer than on the
opposite side.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 30 May 1913.
241. Stone Circle and Hut Circles, Penshiel
Hill, Mayshiel.-On the northern slope of Pen- |
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WHITTINGHAME.] HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. [WHITTINGHAME.
shiel Hill, some 700 yards almost due east of
Mayshiel and 200 yards south of Kingside [insert] Kell Burn [end insert] Burn,
at an elevation of 900 feet above sea-level, is a
hut circle 16 feet in diameter internally, with
a wall now 3 feet 6 inches broad rising 6 to 12
inches in height. On the inside of the eastern
arc a number of the foundation stones are still
in situ. The wall is overgrown with grass and
heather, but on probing it is found to be a stony
in parts. Some 35 yards to the east-south-east,
about 12 feet higher, is a somewhat similar
structure, too overgrown with heather for
measurement. About midway between these
hut circles and the Kingside Burn, is a setting
of small stones, probably part of a stone circle.
Four stones, varying from 11 to 21 inches in
length and rising from 3 to 5 inches above
ground, are placed on end or on edge on the
northern arc of a circle, which would have a
probable diameter of about 45 feet if complete.
A fifth stone was found on probing under a
growth of 5 inches of peat on the south-eastern
arc, and excavation would perhaps expose others.
In the centre is a large flat stone, 4 feet 3 inches
in length and 2 feet 2 inches at greatest
breadth, of which only a small portion appears
above ground. Some 9 feet to the west of
the central stone is a small flat stone 15 inches
across its greatest diagonal.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 3 July 1913.
242. Stone Circle, Penshiel Grange.-Some 63
yards east-south-east of the old cottage at
Penshiel and 100 yards west of Penshiel Grange,
on the grassy slope at the foot of the eastern
side of Penshiel Hill, at an elevation of 950
feet above sea-level, is a setting of four large
stones, which seem to have formed a stone
circle. One stone to the north-west, a four
sided monolith with a blunt chisel-shaped apex,
is erect and measures 4 feet in height and 7 feet
in girth at the base and is packed round the
foundation with a setting or causeying of small
stones, which extend 4 to 5 feet all round. The
remaining three stones are prostate and meas-
ure 2 feet 3 inches, 3 feet and over 3 feet 3
inches in length respectively, one end of the
last stone being sunk in the soil. The dia-
gonals between the stones as they now appear
are 26 feet 7 inches from north-west to south-
east and 15 feet 6 inches from south-west to
north-east. A number of earthfast stones just
142
appear above ground in the interior of the
setting.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 23 May 1913.
243. Demolished Stone Circle (supposed) Pen-
shiel.-Some 60 yards to the south of the above
stone circle (No. 242) are four large prostrate
monoliths measuring 5 feet 3 inches in length
by 3 feet in breadth, 5 feet 7 inches by 2 feet
8 inches, 4 feet 8 inches by 1 foot 3 inches and
6 feet by 1 foot 8 inches respectively. The
first three lie in an almost straight line 11 feet
6 inches and 13 feet apart, and the last lies
about 10 feet to the east. In their immediate
vicinity is a row of large boulders gathered
into a straight line, but they are of entirely
different character from the four monoliths,
which in shape and size so much resemble
stones from a circle. It is not likely that their
association is fortuitous, and the probability
is that they had originally formed a stone
circle.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 23 May 1913.
244. Setting of Small Stones, " The Pack-
man's Grave."-On the muir in the fork of the
roads from Priestlaw to Garvald and Gifford, at
an elevation of 900 feet above sea-level, are five
stones, two pointed and set on end, each
1 foot 7 inches high, and three flat, which
enclose a kite-shaped area 9 feet 3 inches in
length by 4 feet 6 inches in breadth. This
place is known as " the Packman's Grave " ;
a packman who is said to have been murdered
by an innkeeper at Danskine is traditionally
said to have been buried here.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 12 June 1913.
245. Setting of Small Stones, " Nine Stone
Rig," Kingside Burn.-Almost on the 1000
feet contour line on the sloping hillside, some
300 yards south of the "Nine Stones" circle
(No. 239) and some 60 yards north of Kingside
Burn, is a setting of five small stones forming
an irregular pentagon. They are of small size,
the largest being 19 inches in length, and they
rise from 2 to 5 inches above ground. The
greatest distance between two stones dia-
gonally is 8 feet 10 inches. Four are earth-fast;
three are pointed and two flat. The enclosed |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
area is slightly hollow in the centre, and there
is a slight mound to the east.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 19 May 1913.
246. Setting of Small Stones, Kingside
School.-Within the walled area 150 yards
north of Kingside School (No. 220) and 13 yards
west of the Gifford and Priestlaw Road, at an
elevation of about 900 feet above sea-level, is
a setting of five small stones. Four of the
stones are set on end, rising from 9 to 17 inches
above ground, and are placed so as to form a
rectangle measuring about 10 feet in length
and 7 feet in breadth with the longer axis
lying west-north-west and east-south-east. A
fifth stone lying flat is placed near the centre
of the south-western side.
xvi. S.E. (unnoted). 19 May 1913.
SITES.
The O.S. map indicates the following sites:-
247. Chapel, Penshiel. xvi. S.E.
248. Burial Ground, Whittinghame Castle.
xi. N.W.
YESTER.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
249.-Ecclesiastical Furniture, Parish Church,
Gifford.-This church was completed in
1710, superseding the church of St. Cuthbert
at Bothans (No. [insert] 250 [end insert]), and within it are pre-
served the undernoted pieces of ecclesiastical
furniture removed from the older church.
BELL.-In the tower is a long-wasted bell
(fig. 31), 17 1/8 inches in diameter and 13 1/4 inches
high, of late mediæval type belonging to a
group almost certainly cast in Scotland, pro-
bably in Edinburgh, at a foundry which has not
yet been traced. On the skirt is the inscription
O MATER DEI MEMENTO MEI ANNO DOM M CCCC
LXXX XII. With the exception of the initial O
which is a small Lombardic, the inscription is
in Gothic letters. An S-like ornamental stop is
placed at the end of each word and each
division of the date, which is 1492. Above the
inscription is a frieze of rather roughly
moulded fleurs-de-lys ; below are two rims
enclosing a shallow hollow moulding. Im-
mediately below these rims and at the top
143
of the waist, just beneath the beginning of the
inscription, are a plain St. Andrew's cross or X,
a small Lombardic I and the representation of
a hammer, about the same size as the letters of
the inscription. The lettering , fleur-de-lys
frieze and S stop as well as the X and hammer
at the top of the waist are the same as those
on the first bell at St. Giles', Elgin, cast in
1502 ; but the Elgin bell has a small Lombardic
E S instead of I between the X and the hammer.
Very similar bells are at Dalgety, Fife ;
Uphall, Linlithgowshire ; Linlithgow (3rd) ;
and Dundonald, Ayrshire. They all belong
to the same period and are almost certainly
from the same foundry. The question is
discussed in detail in Church Bells of
Linlithgowshire pp. 6-11. The bell is rung by
an old half-wheel 46 inches in diameter.
PULPIT.-The pulpit resembles those in the
churches of Pencaitland and Spott and dates
from the 17th century. It is built of oak and
measures 3 feet 2 inches by 4 feet 4 inches in
diameter by 3 feet 5 inches in height and is
provided with a sounding board and panelled
back. The front is bayed and like the halfits
panelled, with fields enriched with strapwork
cut out of the solid.
PANEL.-In the Tweeddale gallery is a
wooden panel dated 1687 bearing an Earl's
coronet within a scroll and underneath the
initials of John Hay and Jean Scott in mono-
gram.
xv. N.E. 30 May 1913.
250. Collegiate Church of Bothans.-The
Collegiate Church of Bothans lies 100 yards
east of the mansion of Yester, on the left bank
of the Gifford Water, near the village of Gifford.
It superseded an older church on the same or an
adjacent site. The present building was laid
out on a cruciform plan, of which the only
portions left are the choir and transepts, and
these appear to have undergone extensive
alterations and repairs. Whether the nave
existed or not can only be determined by
excavation, as the west end of the crossing is
faced with an 18th century wall covering any
traces of the bonding of the nave walls.
The exterior of the building has been
repaired and largely refaced. A plain 15th
century splayed basecourse returns along the |
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YESTER.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [YESTER.
walls of the transept and along a portion of
the choir walls. A piece of carving repre-
senting two grotesque animals, over one of
which peers a human head, is built into the
south skew of the east gable ; this probably
came from the older church, as there is no trace
of any similar work on the present building,
which is singularly plain. Modern angle
buttresses are attached to the west wall.
Internally the building presents some features
of interest. Each portion is roofed with a stone
pointed barrel vault necessitating, in the ab-
sence of buttresses, walls quite four feet thick.
There are no signs of there having been a
central tower. The transepts are 13 feet wide
and respectively 17 and 18 feet long internally ;
these open into the crossing by semicircular
arches in two orders. In the gable of each
transept is a three-light window with cusped
semicircular heads, all within a segmental arch
stopping on the splayed jambs. In the east
wall of the north transept is a piscina (fig. 29),
the basin of which is almost entirely broken off;
the head is formed of an ogival arch enriched
on the extrados with crockets. On the sinister
side of the head is a shield charged per pale :
dexter, on an inescutcheon three escutcheons
(Hay) ; sinister three fraises (Fraser). The
Fraser arms were assumed by the Hays after
the marriage of Sir Gilbert de Hay of Loch-
erworth with the daughter and co-heiress of
Sir Simon Fraser of Oliver, Peebleshire
(executed 1306), whence the Hay lands in that
county. The piscina, however, is of a much
later date.
An opening in the north wall of the south
transept in proximity to the arch of the crossing
is filled in, as is a doorway high up in the
north wall near the apex of the roof. The
choir arch has been removed, and a later and
wider arch substituted, which rests on console
capitals and renaissance piers. On the vaulted
roof are traces of quasi-vaulting ribs, as at
Seton, Ladykirk, and other churches of the
period. The choir would appear to have been
shortened, as with a width of 18 feet 10
inches from north to south it only measures
13 feet 7 inches from east to west-an unusual
proportion. Moreover the eastern ribs on the
vaulted roof would terminate against the east
gable before reaching the springing level. The
walls show signs of infilling and renewals. In
144
the east gable, at a height of 11 feet from the
ground, is a three-light pointed window filled
apparently with later tracery of a debased
character. On this window exteriorly is incised
the date 1635.
The Church has been and is still used as a
mortuary chapel by the Tweeddale family and
in it are the following memorials. In the south
transept is a monument in Renaissance style
without any dedicatory inscription. Pilasters
set on either side of a recess on a pedestal
and are surmounted by a cornice, on which
is set a pointed arched tympanum bearing a
shield flanked by the initials W H and H C
and charged per pale, a star between three
escutcheons for William Hay of Linplum
(d. 1614) and a crescent between three cocks
for Helen Cockburn his wife (d. 1627)* The
shield has been tinted red and the other details
of the monument outlined in black colour.
In the same transept are two stones dated
respectively 1566 and 1613 ; a third bears a
skull and cross-bones and the motto " MORS
MORTUA MIHI VITA " ; and on a shield parted
per pale : a chevron within a tressure flory
(for Fleming) ; a chevron between three
cinquefoils two and one (for Hamilton of
Pencaitland).
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Bothans was originally
the name of the parish and village. The
" church of Bothans " paid crusading tithe
in 1275-6.1 It was then but a parish
church, and no doubt is the " church of
Yester" (Yestrith) consecrated by David de
Bernham in 1241. In 1448 Alicia de Hay
granted lands to the alter of the B.V. Mary
and a chaplain celebrating there " in the
collegiate church of Bothans." Stephen Kerr,
provost, and two chaplains were witnesses to
the charter.2 In 1539 Hay of Yester gave to
' Robert Walterstoune ' provost of the colle-
gaite church of Bothans, for the support of a
chaplain in the choir celebrating at the alter
of the Holy Cross, a site for a manse (locum
mansionis faciendi) in the township of Bothans
(in pago de Bothanis).3 The same form appears
in another connection, in references of 1592-
" The college of the bothanis, bothane Kirk,
the preistis of the bothanis etc."4 Then in
1645 we have a specification of templar lands
here as in Sanctbothans,5 and this form has
* Ed. Reg. Test. Part ii., pp. 185, 79. |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
persisted for the church, though it is merely
a late formation by analogy with Abbey St.
Bathan's, Berwickshire. But the dedication of
the collegiate church and therefore also of the
parish church, from which it was developed,
was to St. Cuthbert : in 1447 we have " St.
Cuthbert of the College Kirk of Bothans " and
in 1540 " the Collegiate Church of St. Cuthbert
of Bothanis," etc.6
The placing of the parish church upon a
collegiate basis was due to Sir William Hay,
Thomas Boyd, Eustace Maxwell and Dougall
Macdowall, who on 1 Aug., 1420 addressed
a joint petition to Henry, bishop of St. Andrews
asking for the erection of the church into a
college for a provost and four prebendaries,
and the bishop's charter of erection is dated
22 April 1421. The four names in the petition
are those of the husbands of the four heiresses
of the Gifford lands (cf. Introd. p. xxiii) : they
describe themselves as co-lords ( codominorum) of
the lordship of Yester and patrons in turn of
the parish kirk of Bothans. These joint
patrons and their successors were to have the
right of presentation to the provostship and
chaplainries.7 When, again, in 1452 Robert
Boyd of Kilmarnock surrendered his fourth
share for other lands to Sir David Hay, he
retained his share of the patronage of the
collegiate church of Bothans.7 Apparently
this was confiscated with the rest of the
Boyd possessions in the reign of James III,
and in 1511 the provostship was confirmed
by James IV. to Adam Hepburn, Earl of Both-
well.8 By the exchange of the following year
with Hay of Yester (cf. Int. u. s.) the collegiate
church passed under the patronage of the Hays
of Yester. Keith's Catalogue gives the staff
as a provost with seven prebendaries and two
singing boys ; the usual statement is six
prebendaries. The Tweeddale papers mention
under 1447 the alter of B.V. Mary, referred to
above, also an alter of St. Edmund, king and
martyr, in the south transept or St. Edmund's
aisle, a chaplain of the Holy Cross and the
Rood alter ; there was also an alter to St.
Ninian.9
After the Reformation the patronage of the
collegiate church and its prebends continued
with the Hays,10 but in 1708, following on the
change made in the parish of Yester by the
union of the parishes of Bara and Garvald, the
145
Marquis of Tweeddale had a new church with
manse and glebe provided in the town of
Gifford, itself a recent foundation, and the
last parish service was held in the church at
Bothans on Sep. 17 1710,11 which thereafter
was retained as a family burying-place.
1 Theiner cclxiv. ; 2 R.M.S. s.a. 1449, No.
322 ; 3 R.M.S. s.a. ; 4 A Rentale of Hadd-
ington, Scot. Hist. Rev. x., p. 377 ff. ; 5 Inquis.
Spec. Haddington, No. 202 ; 6 Yester Writs,
Nos. 85, 86, 569 ; 7 Ibid. Nos. 53, 55 ; 8 Reg.
Mag. Sig. s.a. No. 521 ; 9 Yester Writs Nos.
152, 153 ; 10 Reg. Mag. Sig. s.a. No. 3635 ;
10 Inquis. Spec. Haddington, pass. ; 11 Session
Records.
xv. N.E. 30 May 1913.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
251. Yester Castle.-Yester Castle (fig. 183)
is built on a promontory formed by the con-
fluence of the Hopes
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 183.-Yester Castle
(No. 251).
Water with a tribu-
tary running north-
wards from Castle-
mains farm about 2
miles south-east of
Gifford.
The peninsula lies
[marginal note]
? a mount and
bailey
north and south and
is slightly crescentic
in shape, with pre-
cipitous sides bounded
by the waters 50 to
70 feet below. At the
southern end a ditch,
measuring 100 feet
wide from crest to
crest and 20 feet deep,
has been excavated,
isolating the site from
the mainland. The
site is level with the
landward for a length
of 200 feet, beyond
which it falls rapidly on the north to the water
level ; in this direction a second ditch, 30 feet
wide and 15 feet deep, is cut across the head of
the peninsula 230 feet north of the first and at a
considerably lower level. The geological forma-
tion of the site is readily seen in the banks of
the water courses, where it is found to be
10 |
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YESTER.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [YESTER.
composed largely of a soft reddish sandstone
rock with a covering of loam, easily excavated.
East of the position, where the Hopes Water
takes a westward loop, a fragment of dressed
masonry 12 feet broad and 8 feet thick is seen
in mid stream, suggesting from its position
that it formed the central pier of a bridge.
To the south-west the smaller stream is crossed
by a bridge with masonry of considerable age
but by no means as old as the fragment on
the east, which might well be 15th century
work.
The level portion of the site measures about
200 feet from north to south and has a greatest
width of 120 feet from east to west (fig. 14).
It has been girt by great walls of enceinte 6 to
8 feet thick, against which internal structures
have been reared. These for the most part are
levelled to the ground save on the north and
east, where portions still stand to a height of
40 feet. In other directions the walls have
fallen, and their debris litters the flanks of
the enceinte and the interior, rendering the
arrangement difficult to elicit. At the southern
end, towards the western corner, the con-
formation of the debris would suggest that the
curtains were here strengthened by circular
towers ; but these and many other obscure
points can be ascertained only by extensive
excavations.
The most prominent portions of the curtain
still standing are the northern side, which is
complete for its length of 70 feet, and 20 and 30
feet respectively of the walls returning along
the flanks. The masonry is built of reddish
freestone ashlar set in large courses and is
covered with a dense growth of ivy. At the
base of these walls a heavy offset course with
a weathered top returns exteriorly. In the
northern wall, at the level of the enceinte,
an arched doorway, which has been closed by
double doors, gives access to the northern
portion of the site, beneath which is the sub-
terranean chamber known as the " Goblin
Ha'." On the interior of this wall can be
seen the beam-holes for two floors above the
level of the enceinte, and on the west wall,
on the floor above this level, is a slightly
projecting basin with an ogival head and an
external outlet with a stone spout. In the
north-east corner are the foundations of
secondary buildings, which have been covered
146
with a penthouse roof, the sloping raggle for
which can be seen on the interior of the north
wall. These and the other buildings have been
roofed with stone slates, several fragments of
which can be seen amongst the debris.
A ruinous stone staircase leads down beneath
the north wall to what is now the most inter-
esting and the only complete chamber of
the castle, the " Goblin Ha' " (fig. 80). It is an
oblong chamber 37 feet long and 13 feet 2 inches
broad, set not rectangularly to the northern
wall of enceinte but inclined to the north-east.
It is built of ashlar and is roofed with a pointed
stone vault with massive close set ribs ; these
are mortised at springing level to receive the
joists of a mezzanine floor ; both floors are
entered from pointed arched doorways on the
south but are otherwise unlighted. Adjoining
the lower doorway at the south-east angle is
a cupboard with an arched head, checked for a
door and penetrating 6 feet within the wall.
In the north wall is a fireplace opening of
early type. Some 6 feet above floor level are
two massive corbels 5 feet apart, on the outer
sides of which are lesser corbels ; immediately
over each main corbel is a beam-hole pene-
trating some 6 feet within the wall, and above
this level the breast of the fireplace is splayed
back, as it ascends upwards, to a square flue
emerging in that portion of the site north of
the main wall of enceinte. Bearers would be
inserted in the beam-holes and would have a
further support on the large corbels ; these
joists would support a sloping hood. The
lesser corbels probably were intended as rests
for lamps or vessels.
In the northern end of each of the lateral
walls is a high pointed arched doorway with
slots in the ingoings for the massive bars
which secured the doors ; beyond these doors
may be seen the start of a passage covered
with a pointed vault. These doorways have
probably been intended as sally ports emerging
midway down the steep slope on the flanks of
the site. At a subsequent period these have
been altered ; that on the west is contracted,
and a lower vaulted passage emerges well
down the slope ; the eastern doorway has
been partially blocked up, and within it is
formed the entrance to a straggling staircase
which descends steeply for 20 feet, where it
terminates under the north-eastern angle of the |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
curtain against the solid rock. The staircase is
narrow, merely sufficient for the passage of people
in single file ; the sides are lined with masonry
inferior to that of the super-structure, and the
roof is formed of a semicircular vault. For
what purpose this elaborate passage was con-
structed is obscure* ; still more so is the reason
why the project was abandoned, unless the
builders feared that further tunnelling would
threaten the stability of the angle of the curtain.
On the higher level of the enceinte, the
portion of the site above the " Goblin Ha' "
and beyond the curtain through which it is
entered, has been apparently enclosed by a wall.
Within the enceinte, against and embodying
the east curtain, is a range of building which
has been at least three storeys in height and
dates from the end of the 15th century. The
lowest storey is ceiled with a semicircular
barrel vault and contains a fireplace in the west
wall and a slit-window in the east with a
stepped sole. Above this vault only the east
wall remains. The first floor has been ceiled in
wood. It contains the remnants of a large fire-
place, in the back of which are the sill and
jamb of a window, not an uncommon occurrence
in mediæval work ; adjoining the fireplace and
to the south is an ogival-headed ambry. The
floor above has been ceiled by a lofty stone
barrel vault probably pointed in form. The
only feature now remaining is the jamb of a
lofty window, evidently intended to have a
pointed arched head. On the arris of the jamb
is wrought a shaft with an edge fillet and
quirked flanking hollows. The shaft termin-
ates in a belled base, dying out on a corbel.
Within the jamb is a cupboard with a pointed
arched head, entirely framed within bead-and-
hollow mouldings returning around the foot
and not, as is usual, received on a sloping sill.
The opening is 1 1/2 feet broad and 3 feet high ;
above the apex is a shield uncarved. The
cupboard also has a pointed arched roof and
is 4 1/4 feet deep and 3 1/4 feet broad.
On the west of the enceinte are the remains
of another range of buildings now only a few
* Sousterrains formed in the natural rock were
a feature of Chateau-Gaillard, the castle raised
by Richard I on the bank of the Seine ; at Coucy
may been seen in the court the mouths of vaulted
galleries leading underground, which have never
been cleared ; and underground caves and passages
are features of these fortified structures.
147
feet above ground, and from the most northerly
of these the stair leading down to the " Goblin
Ha' " is entered. South of this may be traced
an apartment, which has been lit by a two-light
Gothic window on the east, the roll-and-hollow
moulded jambs and the mullion seat of which
remain in situ. A second and smaller window
can be traced, which lighted this apartment
from the south and opened apparently into a
trance between these buildings and others
farther south still more fragmentary.
The remains of the main entrance and others
of the more important features which usually
supply fairly conclusive evidence of date, are
either buried or missing. The lower hall or
" Goblin Ha' " may date from the 13th
century, and the western range was probably
built towards the close of the 14th century.
The masonry of the walls of enceinte is not
unlike that found in early 15th century work,
while the ogival-headed basin in the west wall
and the detail of the eastern range is clearly
15th century work-and later rather than early.
Much could be done to preserve the ruins,
which appear to have received no attention
since falling into a state of disrepair. In
particular the vegetation on the walls and
vaulting should be removed, and the tops of the
walls weather-proofed.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-Yester belonged of old
to the family of Gifford1 from whom, in the
14th century the lands passed to the Hays.2
In 1267 died " Hugo Giffard de Zester, whose
castle or at least the cave and donjon (tower),
as old stories tell, had been constructed by
magic (arte dæmonica) : for there is a mar-
vellous subterranean cavern, wonderfully con-
structed and carried under a great extent of
ground, which is popularly called Bohall."3
The castle was occupied by a constable for
Edward II. in 1311.4
" The Lord of Yester's house " figured in
the operations by the English connected with
the occupation of Haddington in the 16th
century.5 On February 24, 1548, Lord Grey
[marginal note]
It was then held by
the [French Oiwall
of Accounts]. p..46.
of Wilton got possession of it and committed
its guarding to Sir George Douglas with fifty
men. By the end of April, however, Lord
Grey reports it as kept by Spaniards and
holding out against the English fort at Hadd-
ington, so that it must have been recaptured
by the Scoto-French forces. Again it fell into |
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YESTER.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [YESTER.
English hands, as on June 20 there was a
request to Somerset for " one of the Frenchmen
taken in Yester castle."6
The place was abandoned as a residence at
some date after the Reformation7 but the
present residence, Yester House, is of the
period 1740-6.8 The Hays of Yester quartered
the arms of their predecessors the Giffords-
gules, three bars ermine.
1 Cf. Introd. p. xxiii ; 2 Cf. Introd. p. xxiii ;
3 Scotich Lib. x., cap. 21 ; 4 Cal. Docts. iii.,
No. 218 ; 5 Cf. Introd. p. xxix ; 6 Cal. Scott.
Papers, i., Nos. 174, 228, 256 ; 7 Stat. Acct.
i., p. 342 ; 8 Trans. Ed. Arch. Assoc. ii., p. 30.
xv. N.E. 14 April 1915.
252.-Newton Hall.-One hundred yards
south of the modern mansion, which is 2 miles
south-south-west of Gifford, is the ruin of the
former house, which
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 184.-Newton Hall
(No. 252).
was built apparently
in the late 16th cen-
tury. On plan (fig.
184) it is oblong,
measuring externally
22 feet 7 inches from
north to south by 51
feet 7 inches from
east to west and is two storeys and an attic in
height; none of the apartments, of which there
were at least two on each floor, has been
vaulted. The outer walls, which are of rubble,
are entire but are densely clothed with ivy and
other vegetation. A chamfer is wrought on the
jambs and lintels of the windows. Over the
doorway in the north wall is an heraldic panel
within a moulded border enriched on the outer
surface with the dog-tooth ornament. The
panel exhibits two shields, one below the other.
The upper is charged with a lion passant (?)
and is flanked by the initials P N ; the lower
bears three cinquefoils two and one (Hamilton)
and is flanked by the initials M H. Within the
ruin is a lintel inscribed . 1668 . IHN . 30.
DOVECOT.-Between the ruin and mansion is
a dovecot somewhat unusual in appearance,
as the gables are skewed and the roof is a
timber couple one. It is built of rubble re-
sembling that of the ruined house, and is
oblong on plan, measuring 25 1/2 feet from north
to south by 18 feet from east to west. Inter-
148
nally there are two chambers, each containing
stone nests, which are still in use.
HISTORICAL NOTE.-The barony of Newton,
which had been owned by Robert de Swynton
in right of his wife was by them surrendered
for a life-rent therein to Robert II. and in 1377
conferred by him upon William de Newton1
The initials recorded above are no doubt those
of Patrick Newton of that ilk, to whom
Archibald Newton served heir in 1604.2 The
arms of Newton of that ilk, as matriculated in
1673, were vert, a lion rampant or, on a chief
of the second three roses gules. The initials on
the lintel may be those of John Newton, who
served heir to his brother Archibald in 1655.3
Richard Newton was created a baronet in 1697
but died without issue and by entail the estate
fell to his kinsman Richard Hay, who assumed
the name and arms of Newton.
1 Reg. Mag. Sig. i., No. 599 ; 2 Inquisit.
Spec. Hadd. No. 23 ; 3 Ibid. No. 238.
xv. S.W. (unnoted). 9 April 1920.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
253.-Fort, Bentyhall.-On level ground just
inside the corner of a plantation some 400
yards west of Bentyhall, on the 800 feet
contour line, are the remains of an entrench-
ment, oval in outline, surrounded by earthen
ramparts. The main axis runs north-north-
east and south-south-west, and along this line
the interior measures 138 feet while it is 98 feet
across. The inner rampart, now spread out to
a breadth of 13 feet, rises at most about 2 feet
above the level of the interior and 3 1/2 feet above
the bottom of the ditch outside it, which is
some 13 feet in breadth. At places, especially
round the southern arc, the rampart and ditch
are scarcely discernible. On the western side
is a segment of an outer rampart 13 feet broad,
which rises to a height of about 3 feet.
It is impossible to detect any traces of an
entrance, as the site is overgrown with young
trees, and a shallow ditch of late date with a
pathway on the top of the material thrown out
of it, which crosses the south-western end of
the enclosure, has obliterated much of the
original work at this part.
xv. S.E. (unnoted). 14 May 1913. |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
254. Hill Fort, Vitrified, Harelaw.-This fine
stone fort, a little over 1 1/4 miles south of Long
Yester, is built round the rocky summit at the
north-eastern end of Harelaw, a spur of the
Lammermuirs running in a north-easterly
direction into the angle formed by the junction
of the Harelaw Burn on the north and the
Soon Hope Burn, a small feeder from the
south. Rising to a height of almost 1250 feet
above sea-level it commands an uninterrupted
view of the country lying between the hills
and the Firth of Forth. The site is naturally
strong on all sides except towards the south-
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 185.-Harelaw (No. 254).
south-west, where there is a gentle ascent
from the outer defence ; to the north-north-
east there is a rocky escarpment crowning a
sharp declivity, while on the flanks the hill is
very steep. The plan (fig. 185) of the interior
of the fort is somewhat ear-shaped, being con-
tracted on the eastern side some 80 feet from
the narrow north-eastern end. The main axis
of the fort is north-east and south-west, and
the interior is 200 feet long and 86 feet broad
at its widest part about 43 feet from the south-
south-western extremity. While at the north-
eastern end, where there is a strong natural
defence in the rocky escarpment, only one
stone wall, 34 feet above the foot of the rocks,
has been considered necessary, round the flanks
149
and opposite end the defences are more elab-
orate. The inner area is enclosed by a stone
wall 4 feet thick and for the greater part rising
about 1 1/2 feet above the level of the ground on
which it is built. It is in a fairly good state of
preservation, except at the north-eastern end,
but part of the outer facing of the foun-
dation is in situ at the north-eastern corner.
The absence of an apparent entrance through
this defence, the lack of vegetation among
the stones, and the clearness of its outline
make it doubtful if this wall is as old as the
other defences. Springing from either side of
the rocks near the north-eastern end, a second
stone wall and two outer ramparts of earth
encircle the flanks and opposite end. Com-
mencing about 65 feet from the north-eastern
corner, and after allowing 10 feet for the
entrance, the second stone wall swings out
about other 20 feet and is carried in a gradually
diverging line round the fort, till it reaches
the rocks again on the north-west. At the
south-south-western end its centre is 19 feet
distant from the centre of the inner wall, and
at the entrance on the north-western flank
the distance is 12 feet, but beyond this to
the north-east it is lost in a tumbled mass of
stone. At the south-western corner there is
a quantity of vitrified stones showing masses
of molten matter up to 9 inches in diameter
lying on what seems to be the core of the wall;
while on the eastern side, where the ground has
recently been disturbed, the heart of the wall is
exposed, and its appearance suggests that the
footing had been continuously concreted by
vitrification. To the south of the north-western
entrance and on the eastern arc the outer
facing of the wall is seen for a few yards. This
has been a massive wall, as the rickle of stones
is as much as 30 feet in width in places ; large
stones are few, and the bulk of the material is
of the size of causeway stones, many of whch
are calcined About the middle of the north-
western flank the main entrance is clearly
defined by a shallow depression, 11 feet wide,
through the outer defences and outer stone wall,
and there is a suggestion of another entrance
approaching the base of the rocks towards the
north-east. Extending from the main entrance
till it dies on the northern slopes is a short
length of rampart with a ditch on either side ;
southwards two ramparts with ditches follow |
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YESTER.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [YESTER.
the contour of the outer stone wall round the
south-western arc to the southern corner at
distances from wall face to crests of 28 and
65 feet respectively. The inner rampart is
14 feet broad at base, 1 1/2 feet high on the inside
and 9 feet above its ditch, which is 16 feet
wide ; the outer is 12 feet broad at base,
4 feet high inside and the same outside above
its ditch, which is 7 feet wide and 1 foot deep
on the counterscarp. The ends of the outer
rampart return towards the scarp of the inner,
and the inner ditch has been excavated for only
half the length between the ramparts, a plat-
form being left in the southern half, in which
three hollows have been dug. That towards
the east is 14 feet square with a projection to
the west 6 feet square making an L-shaped
depression; the second chamber 30 feet to the
west measures 18 feet by 8 feet, the longer axis
following the line of the ditch, and the third
12 feet farther on measures 12 feet by 8 feet
in the same line but opens to the ditch at the
west. The ramparts on the eastern flank are
down on the general slope, respectively 28 and
45 feet out from the wall face ; for the most
part they appear as little more than scarps and
are indefinite on the south-east.
xv. S.E. 15 May 1913.
255. Fort, Soon Hope Burn, Harelaw.-
This fort is situated behind the shoulder of
Harelaw Hill and at the top of a step brae
running down to the Soon Hope Burn, a small
feeder of the Harelaw Burn. It stands at an
elevation of 900 feet above sea-level some 600
yards north-north-east of and 350 feet lower
than the fort on the top of the hill, Harelaw
Fort (No. 254). It is irregular in shape,
the longest axis running north-west and south-
east, and it measures internally 104 feet in
length and 92 feet in breadth. It is surrounded
by a wall, which has been built of stone,
but which is now much depleted of this
material. It measures 12 feet in width at the
base and rises to a height of 4 feet at most
above the interior. A well defined entrance
11 feet wide is seen on the north-eastern flank,
with a passage still traceable outwards, curving
slightly to the north, for a distance of 30 feet
between parallel walls. From the southern
side of this entrance a shallow ditch 10 feet
wide and a low mound on the counterscarp
150
9 feet broad sweep round by the south and
west, the latter terminating about the southern
extremity and the former being carried round
the western arc, from which side the ground
slopes gently upwards and the fort is most
accessible. The ditch falls to a depth of 3 feet
on the scarp and 1 1/2 feet on the counterscarp.
In the south-western corner of the interior are
the stone foundations of an oval enclosure
overgrown with grass, with traces of an
opening to the north-east. It measures inter-
nally 28 feet by 24 feet, while the wall is
distributed over a width of 9 feet. A heap
of recently collected stones has been deposited
in it.
xv. S.E. 14 May 1913.
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 186.-" The Castles," Long Newton (No. 256).
256. Hill Fort, " The Castles," Long
Newton.-This fort is situated about one mile
east-south-east of Long Newton, at an elevation
of 800 feet above sea-level, at the eastern end
of the hill known as Whinny Knowe, on a
promontory formed by a curve of the Dumb-
adam Burn, whose steep bank at the north-
eastern end of the fort has a height of 76 feet,
providing a strong natural defence for this
part. On plan (fig. 186) the fort is sub-oval,
and its main axis lies north-east and south-
west. Internally it measures some 390 feet in
length by 150 feet in breadth. The inmost
defence along the south-eastern flank, north-
eastern end and about half-way along the
north-western flank has been a rampart, which
has almost entirely been removed, but on the
northern arc a portion of it remains, 10 feet |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
broad and 2 1/2 feet in height above the interior.
Some 16 feet below the base of this rampart and
following its entire length, a terrace has been
cut on the steep slope. On the south-eastern
flank much of it has been obliterated, but a
short section 8 feet in breadth is to be seen; it
broadens to 20 feet at the north-eastern end,
and 40 feet on the north-western flank. These
two defences give out on a wide hollow, which
slopes obliquely down the long steep escarp-
ment. From the opposite side of this hollow
three formidable ramparts (fig. 187) sweep
round the western arc, the most vulnerable
part of the fort, terminating some 20 feet from
the edge of the steep slope on the southern
flank and leaving a broad passage for an
entrance into the fort. The inner of these
measures 30 feet broad at the base and rises
5 1/2 feet on the counterscarp and 11 feet above
the bottom of a trench 22 feet wide, which
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 187.-The " Castles," Section (No. 256).
separates it from the second rampart. This
defence is 14 feet wide at the foundation, 2 to
4 feet high on the inside, and 3 to 4 feet on the
outside. Some 18 feet beyond is the outer
rampart, which measures 18 feet in width at
the foundation and rises 5 1/2 feet in height on
the inside and 7 feet on the outside. In the
line of the ditch between the two outer ram-
parts and beside the entrance are four rect-
angular hollows with rounded angles. These
measure 16 feet by 14 feet, while they are some
6 feet apart. The compartment at the eastern
end opens on to the entrance passage, while at
present access to the other three is obtained by
gaps in the outer wall. It is impossible to say
whether these hollows belong to the same
period as the fort, but it may be noted that
somewhat similar excavations are seen in the
same relative position in Harelaw Fort (No. 254)
about 1 1/2 miles to the south-east of this site.
Though not much stone can now be detected
in any of the mounds which defend this fort,
it is probable that they were originally faced
at least on both sides by this material, which
151
has been utilised in building the numerous
stone dykes in the immediate vicinity.
xv. S.E. 21 May 1913.
257. Fort, The Hopes.-Overlooking the
" Hopes " mansion house some 3 1/4 miles
south-east of Gifford, and occupying the
highest point of a short spur of the Lammer-
muirs, is a large fort defended by an elaborate
series of earthworks (fig. 188). Situated at a
height of about 1350 feet above sea-level, it
occupies a strong natural position on a hill top
which is the eastern termination of a saddle-
shaped ridge. The southern side of this height
falls away steeply but towards the west the
slopes are more gradual.
The fort is sub-oval on plan, the main axis
running north-east and south-west. Except
on the south, where there are almost in-
accessible screes and no traces of mound or
parapet, the defences consist of an outer and
inner series of earthen ramparts and occasional
ditches, which vary in number according to the
vulnerability of the sector which they protect.
The outer defence is formed by a single ram-
part which at the best preserved part meas-
ures 18 feet in width, 2 feet in height on the
inside and rises 4 feet above the bottom of a
ditch outside 5 feet wide, and 1 foot deep on the
counterscarp. The rampart and ditch com-
mence on the edge of the scree on the southern
end and swing round the western flank and
northern end. Facing the north-west is an
entrance 10 feet in width, the rampart on
either side recurving inwards and extending
towards the interior, so as to form a walled
passage for a distance of about 30 yards.
About 50 yards towards the north beyond this
entrance there is a break in the alinement of the
rampart and ditch, which are projected for-
wards about 15 yards and which slightly
overlap. From this point these works are
carried towards the east, the ditch being
crossed by a number of traverses, the best
preserved being towards the eastern end ; these
measure 5 feet in width, and the most easterly
five are placed at distances varying from 20
to 33 feet apart, measured from crest to crest.
The rampart and ditch terminate on the edge
of another ditch or sunken way in places 5 feet
deep and 30 feet wide between the crests of
the ramparts by which it is bordered. This |
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[Illustration inserted]
FIG. 188.-Fort, The Hopes (No. 257).
152 |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
sunken way runs obliquely down the hill in a
north-easterly direction and joins a ditch of
about the same depth and width, also bounded
on either side by a broken rampart, some 30
yards from its northern end where it debouches
on the edge of the ravine through which flows
the Brookside Burn. This ditch lies north and
south and is cut across the lowest part of the
neck of the spur, its southern end dying out
on the hillside 190 yards from the fork made
by it and the sunken way.
The inner series of defences consist of four
ramparts on the south side of the north-western
entrance and three on the north side, placed at
varying distances apart. These ramparts vary
from 16 feet to 24 1/2 feet in width and 1 foot to
2 feet in height on the inside, and, while the
distance between the crests of the inner and
outer rampart is some 40 yards on the edge of
the scree, at the entrance it is about 25 yards.
The southern end of the third rampart from
the interior does not abut on the edge of the
scree but recurves inwards to meet the next
rampart some 15 feet from the verge. Of the
three ramparts to the north of the entrance
the inmost one recurves sharply inwards round
and across the north-eastern segment of the
fort, and the two others extend in a fairly
regular curve until they reach the oblique ditch
or sunken way on the north-east already
mentioned. The outer terminates at the
sunken way but the middle rampart, after a
gap of 10 feet, follows the crest of a steep slope
southwards for 130 feet, after which the
counterscarp swings round to form a circular
depression and meet the scarp of the inmost
rampart. There is a slight trench 6 feet 6
inches wide and about 1 foot deep along the
whole length of the exterior of the outmost
rampart of this inner series.
Crossing the interior some 95 feet from the
north-eastern end is a scarp 3 feet in height,
and about 65 feet in advance of it is a short
section of a parallel mound. In front of
the south-eastern end of the scarp is a circular
hollow 20 feet in diameter and 1 foot deep.
The measurements of the clear interior of
the fort are 250 feet in greatest length and
220 feet in greatest breadth, while the extreme
length between the outer ramparts is 740 feet
and the extreme breadth from scree to outmost
rampart 460 feet.
153
Hope (O.E.hop) is a small blind mountain
valley, especially one opening off a larger
valley or dale.
xv. S.E. and xvi. S.W. 28 September 1621.
258. Hill Fort, " Witches Knowe."-On the
summit of Witches Knowe, a small,
irregularly oval-shaped hill lying parallel to
the main range of the Lammermuirs but
joined to it on the south by a narrow neck
some 33 feet below the enceinte, and separated
from Highside Hill on the north by a narrow
cleugh with very steep sides dropping about
80 feet below, is a stone fort some 340 feet in
length by 130 feet in breadth internally, the
main axis running east-north-east and west-
south-west. The elevation is 900 feet above
sea-level. No defences are required along the
north flank, but to the south, from which it
could be assailed, there are three lines of
defence. The inner defence consists of a wall
now almost obliterated, 12 feet wide at the
foundation, rising 1 1/2 feet on the inside and
9 feet on the outside. This defence is carried
round the ends as a terrace 24 feet wide
steeply scarped on the outside. Some 36 feet
from the inner wall, and 11 feet lower, is a
second wall now overgrown with grass, 12
feet broad rising 2 feet on the inside, and, in
places, 5 1/2 feet on the outside, where there is
the suggestion of a ditch 6 feet wide. This
wall is built only along the flank and is not
continued round the ends, but its east and
west extremities recurve slightly outwards to
permit of an entrance to the south-east and
south-west corners of the enceinte. These
entrances are some 12 feet in width. The
outer defence has also been a stone wall, but
very little of it remains. Some 12 feet wide
at the base and rising only 1 foot above the
ground, it is placed 24 feet from the second
wall and 5 1/2 feet lower. The summit of the
fort is crowned by a small natural oval mound
on the edge of the steep slope of the cleugh
to the north, which rises 8 feet above the sur-
rounding level.
xv. S.W. 21 May 1913.
259. Fort, Kidlaw.-At an elevation of
900 feet above sea-level on the summit of a hill |
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YESTER.] -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. -- [YESTER.
at the north-west end of a spur of the Lammer-
muirs, about 300 yards east of Kidlaw steading,
is a fine fort (fig. 189) roughly circular in shape
and measuring some 370 feet in diameter inter-
nally. From the fort the ground falls with a
fairly steep slope to the west and north to the
Kidlaw Burn, which flows round the base of
the hill about 150 feet below ; to the north-
east, before the ground falls away to the
stream, a small knowe intervenes, and to the
south-east the hill rises with a gentle ascent.
There are two well-defined entrances, one to
the south-south-east about 24 feet broad,
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 189.-Fort, Kidlaw (No. 259).
which however does not here continue through
the inmost rampart, and a second to the west-
south-west 22 feet broad. Several other gaps
appear in the northern segment of the outer
wall, but, as they are not continued through the
inner defences, they have probably been made
at a late period. All the ramparts seem to
have been of stone and earth, but the stones for
the greater part have been removed.
Two ramparts encircle the fort. The ends of
the inner rampart at the west-south-western
entrance are not exactly opposite, the western
arc swinging outwards some 50 feet beyond the
line of the southern arc. From the south of
this entrance the second rampart has been
erected about 32 feet distant from the inner
154
rampart, but in passing the south-south-east
entrance it curves outwards, till it is about
75 feet distant, and is continued round the
eastern and northern arcs, closing in again on
the north-western segment. From the entrance
at the south-south-east a smaller rampart
10 feet broad, 1 foot in height, returns north-
wards for 100 yards at a distance of 30 feet
from the inner and 35 feet from the second
rampart. Round the south-western quadrant
a further outer rampart has been formed.
The fort is in this way defended round the
southern half of the circle, where it is most
assailable, by three ramparts (fig. 190), while
on the northern half there are only two. A fine
section of the defences is seen on the south-west,
where the inner rampart 17 feet wide at the
[illustration inserted]
FIG. 190-Section, Kidlaw (No. 259).
base rises 1 foot on the inside and 7 feet on the
outside ; the next 32 feet distant is
broadened out to a width of 21 feet and is
3 feet high on the inside and 6 1/2 feet on the
outside, while the outermost is 16 feet broad,
2 1/2 feet high on the inside, 5 1/2 on the outside and
17 feet distant from the second rampart.
A number of hut circles overgrown with
grass can be traced within the fort, one group
lying in the north-eastern segment of the
circle, 18 feet from the wall, being composed
of three impinging circles, two having an
inside diameter of 21 feet and the third being
rather smaller with an interior diameter of
14 feet. Two others also touching and meas-
uring 17 feet in diameter in the interior, and
probably a third, are placed towards the
south-east, while an oblong enclosure 40 feet
long by 32 feet broad with a hut circle 10 feet
in diameter in the north-western corner lies
against the western arc of the wall.
xv. S.W. 21 May 1913.
ENCLOSURE.
260. Enclosure, Townhead of Duncanlaw.-
On a gentle declivity facing the west at the |
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YESTER.] -- INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN. -- [YESTER.
eastern extremity of the plantation on the
southern side of the Gifford and Danskine road
and some 400 yards south-west of Townhead
farm, at an elevation of 600 feet above sea-
level, is an oval area enclosed within an earthen
rampart 10 feet broad at base and rising in
one place on the eastern arc, the most vulner-
able side, 2 feet above the inner level and
6 feet above the bottom of a ditch 8 feet wide
and 3 feet deep on the counterscarp. The
longer axis is from north to south, and along
this the enclosure measures 110 yards, while
from east to west the distance is 90 yards.
The socket-stone for a cross (No. 264) lies
within this enclosure.
xv. N.E. (unnoted). 17 May 1913.
EXCAVATED HOLLOWS.
261. Small Excavated Hollows, Harelaw.-
On both sides of the crest of the hill some
200 yards south-south-west of Harelaw Fort
(No. 254) and about 1300 feet above sea-level
are a number of small excavated hollows
varying from 6 inches to 2 feet in depth.
Though surrounded by heather, being above the
grass line here, attention is directed to most
of them by a growth of grass in the hollows.
They are not surrounded by a bank, and only
some of those placed on a slope show signs of
an entrance and that towards the lower side.
They occur singly and also in groups of two or
more. The single examples are from 8 to 10
feet in diameter and are circular ; one group
of two shows the larger hollow 10 feet in
diameter and 2 feet in depth with the smaller
depression 5 feet in diameter and 1 foot in
depth lying at a distance of 10 feet in front
of an entrance on the lower side of the former.
A third group on the crest of the ridge is
comprised of three excavations, two circular
and one curved, placed triangularly and almost
touching ; the largest circle is 10 feet in
diameter and 2 feet in depth, the smallest
5 feet in diameter and 6 inches in depth and
the curved excavations is 8 feet long by 6 feet
broad by 1 1/2 feet deep. There is another group
consisting of two curved hollows which measure
18 feet in length by 4 1/2 feet in breadth by 1 1/2
feet in depth, and 8 feet by 5 feet by 1 1/2 feet
respectively, the latter showing an entrance
from the lower side. These excavations are
within easy reach of a water supply, as the
155
source of the Soon Hope Burn springs out of
a hollow in the hill less than 200 yards to the
south-east.
On the slope below and some 20 yards north-
east of the fort on Harelaw, at an elevation
of 1250 feet above sea-level, are two small
excavated hollows 3 feet apart. The larger,
which is circular, measures 10 feet in diameter,
and the smaller, which is oval, is 7 feet long by
5 feet broad. Both are about 1 foot in depth
at the centre and show no signs of having had
a surrounding wall or of an entrance.
xv. S.E. (unnoted). 16 May 1913.
262. Small Excavated Hollows, Kingside
Rig.-Some 400 yards south-east of the first
group, on the heathery crest of the Kingside
Rig on the opposite side of the upper end of
Soon Hope, which cuts into the hills here, and
about the same elevation, are a few more similar
excavated hollows on both sides of the boun-
dary between Yester and Garvald parishes.
One circular hollow measures 10 feet in dia-
meter and 1 1/2 in depth ; about 175 paces to the
north-east is an oval hollow 12 feet by 7 feet
by 2 feet with a circular hollow 5 feet in
diameter by 9 inches in depth lying 4 feet to
the north-east of it. Some 120 yards farther
on another circular depression with an atten-
dant small circle and an irregularly shaped
excavation is seen. No grass grows in this
series of hollows.
xix. N.E. (unnoted). 15 May 1913.
263. Small Excavated Hollows, Harehope
Hill.-On the heathery eastern shoulder of
Harehope Hill, about 400 yards south of "The
Castles" fort, overlooking the Blinkbonny Burn,
near the 800 feet contour line, is a small excav-
ated circular hollow, 9 feet in diameter, with the
soil thrown out on the lower side. There are
faint traces of other two similar excavations
in the vicinity.
xv. S.E. (unnoted). 9 July 1913.
MISCELLANEOUS.
264. Socket-Stone for Cross, Townhead of
Duncanlaw.-In the enclosure (No. 260), on a
rectangular mound 1 1/2 feet in height is a sand-
stone socket for a cross. The stone is rect-
angular and measures 4 feet in length, 3 feet
in breadth and 1 foot 7 inches in height.
xv. N.E. 17 May 1913. |
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ADDENDA et CORRIGENDA.
1. Dirleton Castle, No. 27.-Excavation by
H.M. Office of Works has revealed 13th century
masonry containing a latrine flue at the north-
west corner of the rock, while, within the
courtyard, foundations of a series of buildings
of indeterminate date and purpose have been
laid bare. A circular oven or kiln, lined like
the ovens of the bakehouse in the east cellars
with marine stone from North Berwick, was
found on the line of the west curtain, and near
by lay a circular stone basin and a stone trough.
At a later stage the oven went out of use and
an outlet was made opening over the cliff.
2. Tantallon Castle, No. 106.-In the course
of excavations conducted by H.M. Office of
Works, the structure of the barbican has been
revealed (fig. 102). It terminated in D shaped
turrets, within which swung a drawbridge.
There were two storeys, both latterly vaulted.
From the lower, a doorway in each wall opened
on the solum of the ditch ; the southern door-
way had been built up and a gun loop formed
in the infilling. The rybats removed from this
door were apparently re-used to build the
present entrance. When the barbican was
vaulted, a stair descending to the lower storey
was formed in the entrance passage.
156
Within the courtyard the building on the
east cliff, cutting the re-entrant angle, proved
to be the outer wall of a 14th century range
lit by narrow openings and provided with a
garderobe and fireplace.
The buildings at the east end of the north
curtain contained 3 chambers in the basement.
The base of a stair tower projecting within
the courtyard has been exposed immediately
beyond the original N.E. angle. The room from
which it was entered contained a small oven
and a fireplace with slight traces of a second
fireplace.
3. Seacliffe Tower, No. 109, should be in the
parish of Whitekirk and Tynninghame.
4. Fountainhall, No. 137.-The west wing
had originally a narrower frontage and has
been extended westward to the line of the main
west gable.
5. The Hopes, No. 188, should be in the
parish of Garvald. |
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GLOSSARY
Abacus.-The uppermost member of a capital, resembling the flat slab which it originally was.
Almuce or Amess.-A shoulder cape lined with fur and descending in front in two long tails.
Architrave.-(1) Moulding round a door, window or similar opening ; (2) The part of an entablature
resting directly upon the column or pier.
Archivolt.-The under curve of an arch, and so also applied to the mouldings upon the curve.
Barbican.-A tower or advanced work defending the entrance to a castle ; may be applied to an
entrance lengthened on the same principle.
Barmkin.-A low enclosing wall.
Barrelvault.-A form of vaulted ceiling or tunnel vault resembling the interior of a half barrel
standing on its edges ; in the " pointed " barrel vault the curved sides rise to a pointed
not a circular arch.
Barrow.-An earthen burial mound.
Bastion.-A projecting part of a fortified work.
Bell cairn.-A circular cairn enclosed within a ditch and rampart also circular.
Bend.-(Heraldry). A bend of the same width as the Fess running diagonally across the shield
from the dexter top to the opposite base point ; when reversed in direction is is known as
a Bend-sinister.
Benatura.-A stoup or vessel for holy water.
Bezant.-A gold roundel or disc (Heraldry).
Bifid.-Partially cleft in two.
Birley tree.-The tree where the " birley " or " birlaw " court met : " Berlaw courts, the quhilks
are rewled be consent of neighbours." Skene (Reg. Maj. 74).
Bi-partite.-Divided into two parts e.g., arcade and clearstorey.
Bordure.-A border round the inside of the shield (Heraldry).
Brassarts.-Plate armour for the arms.
Bretasche.-A projecting covered platform on a castle wall, giving cover while commanding the
wall face below ; originally a name for a tower of wood.
Broach spire.-A spire rising from the sides of a tower without a parapet ; the angles of a
square tower are surmounted by semi-pyramids of masonry (broaches) when the spire is
octagonal.
Broch.-A tower-like structure peculiar to Scotland, circular in form, built with a double wall of
drystone masonry, which is bonded with slabs at varying levels, and having cells in the
solid basement.
Canons (ecclesiastics).-(1) Priests living under monastic rule e.g., Augustinian Canons. (2) A
grade of cathedral clergy.
Canons (of bell).-The loops by which a bell is hung.
Cap-house.-The small erection covering the stair leading up to the parapet walk of a building.
Cartouche.-An ornate panel, oval, round, or angular, which usually is placed in a pediment.
Centering (constructive).-A temporary timber framework supporting an arch during construction.
Chapter.-The clergy of a cathedral or collegiate church, or the members of a monastic order,
acting in council or as a body.
Charter of Novodamus.-A re-grant of lands (de novo damus=we give anew).
Chase.-A groove.
Checky, chequé, chequy.-Divided into squares (chequers) of alternate tinctures (Heraldry).
Chevron.-A charge of pointed gable form (Heraldry).
Cinquefoil.-(1) See Foil. (2) A flower of five petals (Heraldry).
Clearstorey.-A lighting storey or range of windows in the highest part of a nave, chancel, &c.
of a church.
Close.-(1) Said of a bird whose wings are not expanded (Heraldry). (2) An enclosure
Compony.-Formed by a row of rectangular pieces of alternating tinctures (Heraldry).
157 |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Console.-An ornamental bracket of stone or wood.
Cotice.-A narrow border borne on each side of a bend, pale, fess or chevron (Heraldry).
Corbel.-A projecting stone, usually moulded, to support a superincumbent weight.
Coudière.-Plate armour for the elbow.
Counterscarp.-The counter or opposite slope to the scarp or inner face of a ditch.
[marginal note]
Coved
Couped.-See under Erased.
Credence.-A side table or shelf for the Eucharistic elements before consecration.
Crenellated.-Battlemented ; having a parapet of alternate solids (merlons) and openings (crenelles
or kernels).
Cross :
(1) Cross botonny or Cross crosletted.-A cross with arms terminating in trefoils or triple
buds (Heraldry).
(2) Cross, patriarchal.-A cross with a triple cross-head.
(3) Cross-paty (croiz patee).-Strictly a cross with its arms terminating directly in a form
resembling fleurs-de-lys ; usually a cross with expanding arms cut square at the end,
which is more exactly described as a cross-formy (Heraldry).
Cruets.-The vessels used to hold the wine and water before mixing for the Eucharist.
Curtain or Curtain-wall.-A high enclosing wall.
Cusps.-The projecting points between the small arcs or " foils " in Gothic tracery, arches etc.
Debruised.-The term employed in heraldry when a bend, fess or other ordinary is placed across
an animal or other charge, which is then said to be debruised by the ordinary.
Drum-tower.-A hemispherical tower.
Enceinte.-High enclosing wall : often applied to space enclosed.
Engrailed.-Edged with a series of concave curves (Heraldry).
Entablature.-The superposed parts directly resting on pillars or columns and composed of architrave,
frieze and cornice.
Epauliere.-Plate armour for the shoulder.
Eradicated.-Torn up by the roots.
Erased.-Ragged, as if torn off, as distinct from couped or cut even (Heraldry).
Escutcheon or Inescutcheon.-A small shield usually in the centre of the large one (Heraldry).
Eye.-A small sinking or perforation in tracery.
Fess.-A band across the centre of a shield (Heraldry).
Fibula.-A clasp, buckle, or brooch.
Foil (trefoil, quaterfoil or quatrefoil, cinquefoil &c.).-A leaf-shaped curve (of three, four, five &c.
arcs) formed by the cusping in an opening or panel.
Fosse.-A ditch ; used for the oblong hole or pit crossed by a drawbridge in front of a castle
doorway flanked by towers.
Fraises.-Strawberry flowers (Heraldry).
Garb.-A wheat sheaf (Heraldry).
Garderobe.-Mediaeval sanitary provision.
Gargoyle.-A stone gutter or spout, often wrought as a grotesque.
Groined.-Having an angular curve formed by the intersection of two simple vaults.
Guilloche.-An ornament consisting of two or more intertwinning wavy bands.
Halfit.-In joinery, the sides of a fitment.
Hassue col.-A collar of armour for the neck.
Impaled.-Having two coats of arms side by side on one shield divided down the middle ; usually
that of the husband impaled with that of the wife (Heraldry).
Impost.-The member of a pillar or pier from which the arch springs. Discontinuous Impost.-
[marginal note]
!
Where the arch mouldings simply die out in the splayed jambs.
Intrados.-The interior and lower line or curve of an arch.
Jamb, jam (wing).-A wing of a building.
Jambards.-Plate armour for the legs.
Jougs.-An iron collar with chain by which delinquents were secured to a post or building.
Label.-(1) A narrow band on the chief of a shield from which hang three or five " points "
at right angles-usually borne as a " difference " or mark of cadency (Heraldry). (2) A
hood-moulding (q.v.).
Lancet.-A tall narrow window with a pointed-arch head.
158 |
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HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Lie.-In phrases such as " lie Nungait " etc. a use of French le (O. F dialectal li) before vernacular
forms in Latin documents.
Lodge.-A small wing or pavilion unusually lower than the building to which it is attached.
Lucarne.-A roof-light-a skylight, dormer or attic window.
Machicolations.-Horizontal openings for the dropping of missiles or other defensive material.
Martlet.-A bird (marten) showing no legs but only the tufts of feathers at the junction with
the body (Heraldry).
Memel pine.-Pine exported from the port of Memel on the Baltic.
Mezzanine.-A low storey between two main floors of a building.
Misericorde.-(1) A carved bracket affixed to the underside of the seat of a stall, so that, when
the seat which is hinged is turned up against the back, the bracket forms a rest for the
user. (2) A one-edged dagger, generally without a guard, used for dispatching a foe too
severely wounded to recover.
Mortice.-The hole cut in one piece of wood or stone to receive a tenon or projection on another.
Mote (Fr. motte).-A conical earthen mound surrounded by a ditch and originally surmounted
by a wooden fortress within a palisade.
Moulding :
(1) Cavetto-moulding.-A small concave moulding of one quarter of a circle.
(2) Edge-roll moulding.-A rounded or circular moulding, usually accompanied by flanking
fillets (rectangular mouldings) or quirks (q.v.), wrought on the rybat angles at a void.
(3) Hood-moulding.-A projecting moulding on the face of a wall above an arch, usually
following the form of the arch.
(40 Roll-and-hollow moulding.-A roll-moulding along with one or more concave mouldings.
Mouldings, Enrichments of :
(1) Billet-moulding.-Properly an enrichment resembling billets or cylinders of wood spaced at
intervals on the concave surface of a moulding.
(2) Cable-moulding.-A moulding like the twisted strands of a rope.
(3) Crockets.-Ornaments carved in imitation of curved and bent conventional foliage, used
on the sloping sides of spires, canopies, hood-moulds, &c.
(4) Dog-tooth.-An ornament consisting of a series of pyramidal flowers of four petals ;
typical of XIII. century work.
(5) Egg-and-dart.-A series of ornaments alternatively oval and shaped like the head of a dart.
(6) Imbrication.-An ornament representing shingles or tiling.
(7) Nailhead.-An ornament like a series of square nailheads : typical of XIV. century work.
(8) Paterae:-Plate-like ornaments.
(9) Reeded.-Beaded vertically like a bundle of reeds.
Mullet.-A five-pointed spur rowel ; like a star, but with a hole in the centre (Heraldry).
Mullions.-Upright shafts dividing the lights of windows.
Multi-cubical.-Having an ornament of projecting scallops ; characteristic of Romanesque or
Norman work.
Newel.-The central pillar in a winding stair, from which the steps radiate.
Oeil-de-boeuf.-A circular opening.
Offset.-The sloping ledge on a wall or buttress where the upper part is set back.
Orle.-A border within the heraldic shield at some distance from the sides (Heraldry). A chaplet.
Pallet.-A diminutive of the pale or broad band crossing the middle of a shield from top to
bottom (Heraldry).
Papingoes.-Parrots or popinjays (Heraldry).
Parados.-A parapet thrown up in rear of a trench to afford protection from reverse fire.
Parclose screen.-An openwork partition or railing enclosing a chapel or tomb within a church.
Passemented or Passmented.-Embroidered, or finished with lace or other trimming.
Pediment.-The triangular or circular part over the entablature etc. of a building.
Pent-house roof.-A lean-to roof with one slope.
Piles.-A series of triangular wedge-shaped figures issuing from the top of the shield, pointing
downwards (Heraldry).
Pit.-A castle prison, usually in the form of a sunk chamber entered through a trap above.
Piscina.-A basin with a drain discharging into the thickness of the wall, set in a niche or
recess usually south of the alter, where the chalice was rinsed and the priest washed his
hands.
159 |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
Plate tracery.-A pattern pierced in the stone work filling the arch of a window.
Quadripartite vault.-A vault divided into four compartments by ribs or groins.
Quillons.-The arms forming the cross-guard of a sword.
Quirk.-A sharp edged channel as part of a moulding.
Quoins or Quoin Stones.-Dressed corner stones.
Raggle.-A groove cut in masonry to receive the material forming a joint, especially on a wall
to receive the edge of a roof.
Ravelin.-In fortification a detached triangular work having two faces meeting in a salient angle
towards the front.
Re-entering or Re-entrant angle.-An angle pointing inwards.
Reredos.-A hanging, decorated wall or screen of stone or wood at the back of an alter.
Roundel or Roundle.-A round disc of different metals and colours (Heraldry).
Rounds.-Turrets projecting from the angles of a parapet walk ; used even of turrets square on plan.
Rybat.-Dressed stone reveal or side-piece for windows, doors, etc.
Sacrament house.-A cupboard or aumbry used for the reservation of the Host.
Saltire.-A St. Andrew's cross (Heraldry).
Samian ware.-A reddish, patterned ware of Roman times.
Sanctuary.-The division of a church in which the High Alter stood.
Scarp, Escarp, Escarpment.-The inner slope of the ditch of a fortified place.
Scoinson.-Inner edge of the side or jamb of a window or door : the " scoinson arch " is the
inner arched head of such an opening.
Screens.-A partition either of timber or stone which separated the Hall from the service space,
sometimes applied to the space cut off ; also the low dividing partitions in a church.
Sedilia.-Seats for the officiating clergy, usually on the south side of an alter.
Set-off or Off-set.-A narrow sloping ledge on the face of a buttress.
Shawm.-A mediaeval wind instrument with a globular mouthpiece.
Skew-put.-The lowest stone of the skew or coping of a gable, projecting over the wall.
Soffit.-The under-side of a staircase, lintel, cornice, arch, canopy, etc.
Sollerets.-Pointed shoes of articulated plate armour.
Squinch arch.-An arch across a re-entrant angle (q.v.).
Stringcourse.-A horizontal line of projecting mouldings carried along a building.
Stuck moulded.-Where a moulding is wrought on the rail or stile and not applied in a separate
piece.
Tardenoisian.-An early stage of neolithic culture characterised by very small or " pigmy " flint
artefacts : named from a typical site in France.
Tasses or Taces.-Rows of overlapping steel bands below the breastplate as a defence for the
hips and lower part of the body.
Tempera.-A form of distemper, i.e., mural painting in colours with a medium soluble in water.
Tierceron ribs.-In vaulting, an intermediate rib or ribs between the main ribs and following
their direction.
Transom (timber).-Cross piece.
Tressure.-A narrow border within the shield narrower than the orle (q.v.), generally borne
double, and in the Royal Arms of Scotland with fleurs-de-lys (irises) on either side, i.e., flory
and counterflory (Heraldry).
Triforium.-The gallery or arcade, usually without windows and so a " blind-storey, " above the
main arcade and below the clearstorey (q.v.).
Turnpike.-A circular staircase with solid cylindrical newel.
Tympanum.-An enclosed space in the head of an arch, doorway, etc., or in a triangle of a
pediment.
Vallum.-An earthen or turf rampart.
Vesica.-Properly vesica piscis, so termed from its supposed resemblance to the bladder of a fish,
is a window of pointed oval form.
Vice.-A small circular staircase.
Viol.-An early form of violin.
Void.-An unfilled space in a wall, serving as a door or window.
Voussoirs.-The wedge-like stones forming an arch.
Yett.-A gate.
160 |
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[Note]
546
INDEX
(The Roman numerals refer to the pages of the Introduction, the Arabic numerals to the Articles of the Inventory.)
Abbey Bridge, 76.
Abbey Farm, Haddington, 79.
Abbey Farm, Graveyard, 78.
Abbey Farm, North Berwick :
Dovecot, 115.
Matrix Stone, 114.
Aberlady :
Fort, xxxi, 3 (p. 4).
Market Cross, 8.
Parish Church, 2.
Parish of, 1-8.
Alms Dishes, 68.
Armorial Bearings (see Heraldry).
Athelstaneford :
Dovecot, xliv, 12.
Parish of, 9-19.
Auldhame, 202.
Graveyard (site), 210.
Kitchen Midden, 207.
Ballencrieff House, xliv, 5.
Ballencrieff Granary, 6.
Bankton House, xliv, 195.
Bara Church and Graveyard (sites), 58, 59.
Barnes Castle, xliv, 71.
The Bass Castle, xxii, 108.
The Bass, St. Baldred's Chapel, xxii, 105.
Bells, xlvi, 23, 82, 98, 117, 135, 191, 249.
Bentyhall, Fort, 253.
Bielside, Dovecot, xliv, 43.
Birk Cleugh Hill, Hut Circle, 171.
" Black Castle " (site), 129.
Black Castle Hill :
Hill Fort, No. 1, 88.
Hill Fort, No. 2, 89.
Black Castle, Newlands, Fort, 50.
Black Loch, Spott, Fort (site), 178.
Bleak Law Rig, Small Cairn and Hut Circle, 236.
Boar Stone, 16.
Bolton :
Parish Church Bell, 23.
Parish of, 20-21.
Bothans, Collegiate Church, xlvi, 250.
" Bothwell Castle," xliv, 72.
Bowerhouse, Dunbar, relics at, xxxiii.
Bridges, xlv, 75, 76, 86, 140, 151.
Bronze Implements, xxxiii, xxxvi.
BURIALS :
Bronze Age, xxxv.
Iron Age, xxxiv, xl.
161
Cairndinnes Farm, " The Loth Stones," 149.
Cairns, xxxiii, 30, 54, 55, 90, 91, 112, 168-170, 182, 183,
204, 205, 225-236.
SITES, 62, 188.
Carfrae, Fort Near (site), 63.
Castellated and Domestic Structures, xli-v, 3-7, 10, 11, 20,
21, 27, 28, 36, 40, 45, 70-72, 83, 84, 87, 106-108,
136-139, 145-147, 156-159, 163, 181, 192-195, 202,
203, 213, 214, 216, 217, 251, 252.
SITES, 60, 67, 96, 100, 101, 121, 128, 129.
Castle Dykes, Fort, 126.
" Castle Tarbet," Fidra, xix, xli, 32.
" The Castles," Long Newton, Hill Fort, 256.
" Castles " and " Chesters," note on, xli.
The Chesters, Fort, 22.
The Chesters, Drem, Fort, 13.
The Chesters, Spott, Hill Fort, 167.
Cave, Fidra, 33.
Caves, Hanging Rocks, Archerfield, 29.
Cists, xxxiii-iv, 3, 31, 119, 143.
Clints Dod, Small Cairn, 228.
Cockles Smithy, Stone with spiral, 80.
Communion Cups, xlvi.
Congalton, Armorial Bearings, etc., 34.
Dovecot, xliv, 34.
Constabulary, The, xvii.
Cowthrople, 160.
Craigleith, Hut Circles and Enclosures, 120.
Craigy Hill, Hill Fort (supposed), 15.
Crosses, xlv, 8, 16, 38, 134, 142, 161, 264.
Crystal Rig, Cairns, 90, 91.
Cup Marks, xxxiv, xxxv, 174.
Darned House, Cairn, 55.
Defensive Constructions (see Forts).
Dirleton :
Castle, xli, xliii, 27.
Dovecot, xliv, 27.
Parish Church, 25.
Parish of, 24-35.
Dodridge Law, Hill Fort, 133.
Dolphinston, 160.
Dovecot, xliv, 160.
Doon Hill, Fort, 166.
Dovecots, xliv, 3, 7, 12, 20, 27, 28, 34, 42, 43, 45, 92,
106, 109, 115, 135, 137, 141, 146, 156, 159, 160,
164, 180, 196, 217, 252. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
(The Roman numerals refer to the pages of the Introduction, the Arabic numerals to the Articles of the Inventory.)
Drem :
Chesters, The, xxxix, 13.
Chapel, St. John's, xlvi, 9.
" Priest's House," 10.
Dunbar :
Castle, xxvii, xxviii, xxix, xxxvi, 36.
Cross, p. 27, 28.
Dovecot at, xliv, xlvi, 42.
Old Harbour, 41.
Parish Church, Monument, 39.
Parish of, 36-43.
Town House, 37.
Trinitarians or Red Friars, Church of, xlvi, 42.
Dunbar Common, Hut Circle and Cairns, 168.
Dunglass :
Castle (site), xxviii, 128.
Collegiate Church, xxv, xlvi, 124.
" French Camp," xxx, 125.
Sundial near Collegiate Church, 127.
Dunpender, Traprain Law, xiv, xxxii, xxxvii, xxxix-xl,
148.
Eaglescairnie, 21.
Earthworks, Mounds, and other Constructions of doubtful
character, 35, 53, 93, 220, 260.
East Linton Bridge, xxviii, xlv, 151.
Easter Broomhouse, Standing Stone, 174.
Ecclesiastical Structures, xlv-vi, 1, 2, 9, 24-26, 42, 44, 64,
65, 68, 69, 82, 98, 102-105, 123, 124, 130, 135, 144,
145, 162, 180, 190, 191, 200, 201, 212, 215, 250.
SITES, 19, 58, 61, 66, 81, 95, 122, 154, 187, 189, 199,
210, 247, 248.
Edinkins Bridge (site), 97.
Effigies, 1, 68, 191, 201.
Eldbottle, " old castle," xli.
Elphinstone Tower, 192.
Elsie Cleugh Rig, Hut Circle and Cairns, 169.
Enclosures, 110, 120, 220, 221, 226, 260.
Excavated Hollows, 56, 57, 222-4, 254, 262, 263.
" Fairy Knowe," Relics xxxiii, Cairn (site), 188.
Falside Castle, xliv, 193.
Faseny Water :
Rectangular Foundation and Excavated Hollow, 57.
Small Excavated Hollows 56.
Fawside : see Falside.
Fenton Barns, Tumulus (site), 35.
Fenton :
Tower, 107.
Cruciform carving at, 107.
Fidra :
" Castle Tarbet," xix, xli, 32.
Cave, 33.
St. Nicholas Chapel, 26.
Flint Implements, xxxii, xxxiii.
Fonts, 24, 180, 191.
Forts, xxxvii-ix, 13-15, 22, 46-52, 74, 85, 88, 89, 125, 126,
133, 148, 166, 167, 218, 219, 253-259.
SITES, 63, 94, 178, 179.
Vitrified, xxxvii, 254.
162
Fountainhall, xliv, 137.
" French Camp," Dunglass, xxx, 125.
Friar's Nose, Fort, xxxvi, 219.
Furniture, 135, 173, 200, 249.
Gamelshiel Castle, 181.
Garleton Castle, xliv, 11.
Garvald :
Cairn south-east of (site), 62.
" Grange " north east of (site), 61.
Parish Church, 44.
Parish of, 44-63.
Garvald Mains, Hill Fort, 51.
Gladsmuir :
Kirk (site), 66.
Mote, xli.
Old Parish Church, xlvi, 64.
Parish of, 64-67.
Goblin Ha', xliii, 251.
" Green Castle," Newlands, Hill Fort, 46.
Gullane :
Cairns at Black Rocks, 30.
Cairns at West Links, 31.
Old Parish Church, 24.
Haddington :
Cistercian Nunnery, xxix, xlvi.
Crosshead at Manse, 77.
Fortified and besieged, xxviii-xxxi.
Houses in, 72, 73.
Parish Church, xxix, xlv, 68.
Parish of, 68-81.
Hailes Castle, xxix, xxxi, xli, xliii 147.
Hamilton House, A xliv, 158.
Hanging Rocks, Caves at, 29.
Harehope Hill, Small Excavated Hollows, 263.
Harelaw :
Hill Fort, Vitrified, xxxvii, 254.
Small Excavated Hollows, 261.
Harestone Hill, The Whitestone Cairn, 54.
Heraldic Stones (unidentified), 6.
Heraldry :
Arms of :
Aberneathy, 191.
Baillie, 40.
Brown of Blackburn and Cairns, 20.
Cairns and Brown of Blackburn, 20.
Cameron, Halyburton and Vaux, 27.
Carmichael, 201.
Cockburn, 162.
Cockburn and Hay, 250.
Cockburn and Sandilands, 130.
Congalton and Lauder, 34.
Cranston, 68.
Crawford, Abbot of Holyrood, 200, 203.
Crawfurd, 190.
Cumming, 191.
Douglas, 192.
Douglas, Earl of Morton, 68.
Douglas of Whittinghame, 213.
Drummond, 68, 191.
Dunbar, Earl of, 36.
Edminstone, 192.
Elphinstone, 3, 192.
Fawside, 190. |
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| east-lothian-1924/05-258 |
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
(The Roman numerals refer to the pages of the Introduction, the Arabic numerals to the Articles of the Inventory.)
Heraldry-continued :
Arms of-continued :
Ferguson, 190.
Ferguson and Heriot, 25.
Fleming and Maitland, 68, 70.
Fraser and Hay, 250.
Halyburton, 27.
Hayburton and Hunter, 21.
Halyburton, Cameron and Vaux, 27.
Hamilton, 158, 252.
Hamilton, Earl of Arran, 68.
Hamilton of Belhaven, 201.
Hamilton of Sorn, 68.
Hay and Cockburn, 250.
Hay and Fraser, 250.
Hepburn, 1.
Hepburn and Paterson, 123.
Hepburn and Sinclair, 123.
Heriot and Ferguson, 25.
Home and Pepdie, 124.
Hope and Johnstone, 3.
Hume, 191.
Hunter and Halyburton, 21.
Johnston, 192.
Johnstone and Hope, 3.
Lauder, 137.
Lauder and Congalton, 34.
Levingtoun of Saltcoats, 28.
Lyle, 214.
Maitland, 70, 192.
Maitland and Fleming, 68, 70.
Maitland and Seton, 68.
Marjoribanks and Simpson, 159.
Maxwell, 191.
Maxwell, Earl of Dirleton, 25.
Menzies, 192.
Murray and Seton, 191.
Murray of Blackbarony, 5.
Ogilvy, 191.
Paterson and Hepburn, 123.
Pepdie and Home, 124.
Renton and Watson, 135.
Sandilands and Cockburn, 130.
Scott of Buccleuch, 192.
Seton, 136, 192.
Seton and Black, 68.
Seton and Maitland, 68.
Seton and Murray, 191.
Skene of Rubislaw, 83.
Simpson, 158.
Simpson and Marjoribanks, 159.
Sinclair, 140, 162, 163.
Sinclair and Hepburn, 123.
Sydserff, 217.
Vaux, Halyburton and Cameron, 27.
Watson and Renton, 135.
Wishart, 191.
Herdmanston :
Chapel, 162.
House, xxix, 163.
Herd's Hill, Faseny Water, Cairn, 225.
Hill Forts, xxxvii, see Forts.
The Hopes, Fort, xv, 257.
House o' Muir, 132.
Humbie Mill Bridge, 86.
Humbie, Parish of, 82-86.
Hut Circles, xxxv, 168, 169, 171, 184, 233, 234, 235, 236,
237, 241.
163
Innerwick :
Castle, xxviii, xliii, 87.
Dovecot near Castle, 92.
Parish of, 87-97.
" John Knox's Kirk," 65.
Johnscleugh, 216.
Johnscleugh :
Small Cairns and Hut Circles, 233, 235.
Small Excavated Hollow, Black Burn, 222.
Small Excavated Hollows, Ling Rig, 223.
Jougs, 44, 137.
Kaeheughs, Fort, 74.
Keith :
Bell at house, 82,
Church, 82.
House, 82.
Kidlaw Fort, 259.
Kilspindie Castle, 4.
Kitchen Middens, xxxv, xli, 31, 110, 207.
Kingside Hill :
Cairns, 231.
Cairns and Hut Circles, 234.
Stone Circles, 240.
Kingside Rig :
Fort,47.
Small Excavated Hollows, 262.
Kingside School :
Setting of Small Stones, 246.
Walled Enclosures, 220, 221.
Kirkland, Standing Stone, 206.
" Lamp of Lothian," The, xxv.
Leaston House, 84.
Lennoxlove, xliii, xliv, 70.
Lethington, xxx : see Lennoxlove.
Ling Rig, Johnscleugh, Small Excavated Hollows, 223.
Linplum (site), 60.
Linton Bridge, see East Linton.
Lochend, 40.
Longniddry Castle (site), 67.
" The Loth Stone," xviii, xxxiv, 149.
" Lothian," Note on, xviii.
Luffness :
Convent, xlv, xlvi, 1.
House, xix, 3.
Market Crosses, see Crosses.
Markle, xxvii, 145.
Matrix Stones, 114, 200.
Mayshiel, Setting of Small Stones, 238.
Milton Farm, Burial Knowe, 143.
Memorial Brass, 130.
Monastic Houses, xlvi, 1, 42, 104.
Morham :
Bell, 98.
Castle (site), 100.
Parish Church, 98.
Parish of, 98-101.
Village (site), 101.
Muirhouses, Standing Stones at, 17, 18.
Municipal Structures, 37. |
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| east-lothian-1924/05-259 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS IN EAST LOTHIAN.
(The Roman numerals refer to the pages of the Introduction, the Arabic numerals to the Articles of the Inventory.)
Newlands Hill, Rampart and Ditch, 53.
Newton Hall, 252.
Nine Stone Rig :
Setting of Small Stones, 245.
Small Cairn, 227.
" The Nine Stones," Stone Circle, xxxiv, 239.
North Berwick :
Bell at, 117.
Cairn, West Links, xxxiii (Relics), 112.
Carved Stones at Manse, 113.
Castle Hill, 121.
Cist Burials, 119.
Cistercian Convent, xviii, xlvi, 104.
Communion Cups at, xlvi.
Cross at Lodge, 116.
Old Parish Church, xlvi, 102.
Parish of, 102-122.
Rock Shelter, 111.
St. Andrew's Church, 103.
St. Andrew's (new) Church, Bell, 117.
Walled Enclosures and Kitchen Middens on Law, 110.
Northfield House, xliv, 159.
Dovecot, xliv, 159.
Nungate Bridge, xlv, 75.
Nunraw, xxix, 45.
Painted ceiling at, 45.
Dovecot, xliv, 45.
Oldhamstocks :
Parish Church, 123.
Parish of, 123-129.
Ormiston :
Parish of, 130-134.
17th Century Structure at Hall, 131.
St. Giles Church, 130.
Village Cross, xlv, 134.
" Packman's Grave," The, 244.
Papple " Convent," 212.
Park Burn, Newlands, Hill Forts, 48, 49.
Pencaitland :
Bridge, 140.
Dovecot, xliv, 141.
House, 138.
Parish Church, xlv, xlvi, 135.
Parish of, 135-143.
Pencaitland, Wester, Village Cross, xlv, 142.
Pencraig Hill, Standing Stone, 150.
Penshiel, 215.
Penshiel :
Chapel (site), 247.
Stone Circles, 242, 243.
Penshiel Hill :
Bell Cairn, Table Rings, 232.
Stone Circles and Hut Circles, 241.
Pilmuir House, 20.
Pitcox Church and Graveyard (sites), 189.
Pottery, xxxv :
Mediaeval, xli, 30, 104, 207.
Samian, 29.
Preston :
Cross, xlv, 161.
House, 157.
Tower, 156.
Prestonkirk, 144.
Parish of, 144-155.
Prestonpans, Parish of, 156-161.
Priestlaw Hill, Cairn and Enclosure, 226.
164
" Priest's House," Drem, 10.
Promontory Fort, xxxvii, 126.
Pulpit, 173.
Red Friars, Dunbar, xliv, xlvi, 42.
Redhouse, xliii-iv, 7.
Redstone Rig, Small Excavated Hollows, 224.
Relics recovered : xxxi-xli, 3, 29, 30, 110, 112, 119, 148,
176, 188.
Rock Sculpturings, xxxv, 80, 84, 174.
Rock Shelter, 111.
Rockville Farm, Tower, 118.
Roodwell, Stenton, 186.
Rough Cleugh Rig, Hut Circle, 237.
Ruchlaw, xliv, 217.
St. Andrew's Church, Gullane, xlv, 24.
St. Andrew's Church, North Berwick, xlvi, 103.
St. Baldred's Cave, 208.
St. Baldred's Chapel on the Bass Rock, 105.
St. Baldred's Cradle, Cairn, 205.
St. Baldred's Well, Auldhame, 209.
St. Baldred's Well, Prestonkirk, 153.
St. Dennis's Chapel (site), 95.
St. Germain's Hospital (site), 199.
St. Giles Church, Ormiston, 130.
St. John's Chapel, 9.
Graveyard, 19.
St. John's Well, 177.
St. Martin's Church, xlv, 69.
St. Mary's Church, Haddington, xlv, 68.
St. Mary's Convent (site), 81.
St. Nicholas Chapel, Fidra, 26.
Saltcoats Castle, 28.
Salton :
Hall, 164.
Mill, 165.
Saltoun, Parish of, 162-165.
Scoughall, Dovecot, 109.
Sculptured Stones, xxxv, 77, 80, 84, 107, 113, 116, 152,
161, 174.
Seacliff Tower, 109.
Sepulchral Monuments (see Tombstones and other
Memorial Slabs).
Seton :
Collegiate Church, xlv, xlvi, 191.
House, Architectural Details, 198.
Shielings, xl.
Skid Hill, Hill Fort on, 14.
Smeaton House, Graveslab at, 152.
Snailscleugh, Hut Circles, 184.
Soon Hope Burn, Harelaw Fort, 255.
Spartleton, Cairn, 183.
Spartleton Edge :
Cairns, 229, 230.
Stone Circle, 185.
Spott :
Home Farm, Fort (site), 179.
Parish of, 166-179.
Pulpit in Parish Church, 173.
Re-interment in Churchyard, 176.
St. John's Well, 177.
The Witch's Stone, 175. |
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| east-lothian-1924/05-260 |
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
(The Roman numerals refer to the pages of the Introduction, the Arabic numerals to the Articles of the Inventory.)
Standing Stones, xxxiv, 17, 18, 99, 149, 150, 174, 206,
Standing Stone Farm, Standing Stone, 99.
Stenton :
Dovecot, xliv, 180.
Old Parish Church, 180.
Parish of, 180-189.
Well of the Holy Rood, 186.
Stobshiel Fort, 85.
Stone Circles, xxxiv, 172, 185, 239-243.
Stone Settings, xxxv, 244, 245, 246.
Stone Axes, xxxii.
Stoneypath Tower, 214.
Summerhill, Millknowe, Cairn, 182.
Sundials, 3, 37, 40, 44, 64, 70, 123, 127, 132, 137, 165,
217.
Table Rings, Penshiel Hill, Bell Cairn, xxxiii, 232.
Tantallon :
Castle, xxviii, xxxi, xxxvi, xliii, 106.
Chapel (site), 122.
Thornton Castle (site), xxviii, 96.
Thornton Loch, Fort, 94.
Tombstones and other Memorial Slabs, 1, 2, 39, 68, 82,
162, 190, 201.
Townhead of Duncanlaw :
Enclosure, 260.
Socket Stone for Cross, 264.
Tranent :
Dovecot, xliv, 196.
Parish Church, 190.
Parish of, 190-199.
Priest's Well, 197.
Tower, 194.
Traprain Law, Fort, xiv, xxxii, xxxvii, xxxix-xl, 148.
Tynninghame Church, 201.
Urns, xxxii-iii-iv-v.
Vitrification, xxxvii, 254.
Walled Enclosures, 110, 220, 221.
Watch Law, Dunbar Common, Cairn, 170.
Waughton :
Castle, xxix, 146.
Chapel (site), 154.
Dovecot, xliv, 146.
Graveyard (site), 155.
" White Castle," Hill Fort, 52.
White Friars, Luffness, xlvi, 1.
White Well, Johnscleugh, Fort, near, 218.
Whitekirk :
Our Lady's Well (supposed site), 211.
Parish Church, 200.
Parish of, 200-211.
Tithebarn, 203.
Whitekirk Hill, Cairn, 204.
Whittinghame :
Burial ground at Castle (site), 248.
Castle, 213.
Parish of, 213-248.
Winton House, xliv, 136.
" The Witches Cairn," Crystal Rig, Friardykes, 90.
" The Witches Knowe," 93.
" Witches Knowe," Hill Fort, 258.
The Witch's Stone, Spott, 175.
Woodhall, 139.
Yester :
Castle, xxix, xli, xliii, 251.
Ecclesiastical Furniture in Parish Church, 249.
Goblin Ha', xliii, 251.
Parish of, 249-264.
Zadlee, Stone Circle, 172.
Printed under the authority of HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE,
by Thos. Paul, Ltd., Falkirk.
(115) Wt. 3464/9-1/25-500 T. P. Ltd. Gp. 3. |
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| east-lothian-1924/05-261 |
[Map inserted]
ROYAL COMMISSION ON
ANCIENT & HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
(SCOTLAND).
MAP
SHOWING THE POSITION OF THE PRINCIPAL
MONUMENTS IN THE COUNTY OF
EAST LOTHIAN OR HADDINGTON.
N.B. - The numbers refer to the article in the Inventory
upon the particular monument. |
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